Reinserting an alignment pin?

[Blackwater]

Fellas, I've got a buddy's Lyman 457125 mould that he (slightly exaggeratedly) said was casting "square bullets. Well, they weren't exactly square, but they sure weren't round either. I did everything I can to the mould, and if I can get one of the alignment pins back in, and to the correct depth, it'll be OK now .... maybe.

I've never reinstalled an alignment pin, but for all the problems I had getting it out, I don't think I have any illusions about this being a particularly easy task.

I know the pin and hole both have to be free from any grit, of course. This type of thing seems to require a rather deft sense of feel, which I THOUGHT I had a decent dose of until I met this @#$%^&* mould. Humility's a wonderful thing, but an overdose kinda' hurts! ;^)

Does anyone have any tidbits of wisdom and/or advice to give me before I "take a whack" at this? Advice & experience very much appreciated.

[David R]

I'm sure the pin will go in easier if the mold is hot, like 400 dagrees. That would be smoking with oil on it when you heat it up. Use a good square punch the proper size and at least a 16 oz hammer.

David

[KCSO]

I use an old arbor press that was used for eyeglasses. I push with a brass cupped tip. You might be able to do the same with a heavy duty drill press. I would coat the pin with sizing lube and try pushing before i went at it with a hammer, but i'm some timid with other peoples stuff.

[Slowpoke]

Fellas, I've got a buddy's Lyman 457125 mould that he (slightly exaggeratedly) said was casting "square bullets. Well, they weren't exactly square, but they sure weren't round either. I did everything I can to the mould, and if I can get one of the alignment pins back in, and to the correct depth, it'll be OK now .... maybe.

I've never reinstalled an alignment pin, but for all the problems I had getting it out, I don't think I have any illusions about this being a particularly easy task.

I know the pin and hole both have to be free from any grit, of course. This type of thing seems to require a rather deft sense of feel, which I THOUGHT I had a decent dose of until I met this @#$%^&* mould. Humility's a wonderful thing, but an overdose kinda' hurts! ;^)

Does anyone have any tidbits of wisdom and/or advice to give me before I "take a whack" at this? Advice & experience very much appreciated.

It's been my experience they go back in a lot easier than they come out.( kind a scary when you think about it) I just clean the hole out really good with a little kroil and tap it back in from the backside.

I have come to rely on kroil when it comes to alignment pins, a five minute soak with just a drop or two does the trick for easy adjusting.

About a year ago I had Buckshot make me a couple of fitted punches for the lyman, rcbs and saeco pins, so I can move a tight pin back in without damaging the end, works slick, no worries.

good luck

[44man]

Once you get the pin almost all the way in, just tap it lightly a little at a time until you just get rid of the side play between the blocks. The pins fit tight for a reason! Heating the blocks will help get the pin in, but then they are hard to handle.
No easy way except a good punch and a big hammer.

[nighthunter]

Whatever you do .... don't force it. If need be get a bigger hammer.
Nighthunter