New to casting recommend setup for 44 mag

[Pmc]

Hi, been lurking and reading. Ready to jump in.

I have been reloading for about 8 years. I want to cast bullets for some suppressed 44 mag rifles. I have access to lots of WW and possibly some linotype.

I would like your recommendation on a quality 6 cavity 240gr mould. These bullets will be used for hunting deer sized game.

I am sure I will have more questions.

Pmc

[nighthunter]

Welcome to the board PMC. I think it would be best if you found someone near you and maybe joined in a casting session or two. 6 cavity molds are not the only way to get started. You can make a big pile of bullets with a 2 cavity mold and usually get a better quality mold to start with. There is a lot to learn about casting but it definately can be done by a beginner. You seem to have a source for the metals needed. Next would be a pot to melt them in. This can be a bottom pour electric pot or a top pour heated by various means. Next is the casting of the bullets then comes the sizeing and lubricating of the cast bullets. Again there are several methods that all work. It all adds up to another of lifes little addictions. Let us know where you are located and see if any other fellow casters could get together with you.

Nighthunter

[Lloyd Smale]

buy yourself a 4 cavity lyman 421429 mold or a rcbs 2 cav 250 k or 250 kt. Id say a 2 cav lyman would do but i quit buying them as ive just had to many problems with there 2 cav molds and think there 4 cavity molds are a much better made mold. cast them out of straight ww for anything under 1100 fps and mix lyno and ww 5050 for anything over and you wont go wrong.

[Firebricker]

+1 on Lloyds post. Welcome Pmc.

[mroliver77]

If you are hung up on 6 cav , the Lee is a decent mold if treated properly. On the group buys there is a Mihec H&G 503 that should be just the ticket. Being new though, I agree with Lloyed that less cavities would be better. Even a single cav is good and there are times I prefer casting with one. It is not cheap jumping in with both feet and buying pots and all. Then if you decide that casting is not for you you have alot of $$ that needs recovered. I always advise a new caster to start with a heavy sauce pan, a single cav Lee mold and a Lyman type ladle to get the feel with. Many good boolits have been cast this way and many prefer this way.If you are a tinkerer like most of us it can quickly become an addiction. Many here will send you a hand full of boolits to try out before you decide on a mold. Very good bunch of folks here.
Jay

[mdi]

My first mold was a Lee 240 T/L. Lots of little bands to get filled out but a good teacher. I had a steel pot and a single burner Coleman Propane stove and a Lee ladle ( I cast and shot a whole bunch of good Boolits before someone told me the Lee dipper doesn't work!). I used wheel weights exclusivly. I now have a Lyman ladle, an RCBS ladle (I can't tell the diff) and I dip or bottom pour depending on how I feel. You'll get arguements for both sides here. Temps were difficult to control with the propane stove so I went to a Lee Pro 4-20 bottom pour. Now I have about 5, .44 molds (no six cavity) from Lee, Ranchdog, and Lyman/Ideal. I still tumble lube some and pan lube some, and I don't have plans for a lubersizer! Good source of info is Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook. I'd suggest you get that first and figger out what will suit your casting/shooting needs.

BEWARE; Boolit casting is ADDICTIVE!:castmine:

[Pmc]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes I am a tinkerer. I will look at the 4 cavs. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

Pmc

[Shuz]

I suggest you not start casting with a 6 cavity mould. As others have suggested, RCBS and Lyman make 2 or 4C moulds that are much easier to learn with than a Lee, or any other 6 cavity. I have not had good luck with several Lee 6 cavity moulds that I've had down thru the years. They are too finicky for a beginner to learn how to deal with all the problems associated with multi-cavity moulds, especially the Lee's. I'll be quick to say, that others have not had the same experience with Lee 6 cavity moulds that I have. Some folks love 'em! To each his own.

[Recluse]

+1 to Shuz.

6-cavity moulds aren't the best way to start/learn by any stretch of the imagination. Additionally, you're HUGELY limiting yourself to the style of boolit you want by only looking at a six-banger.

I like (most) Lee moulds, but in the .429 range, I strongly prefer the RCBS moulds, along with the Old Lyman moulds. Lee only has one .429 mould I like (I own it) and that is their 200SWC boolit. I get fantastic boolits from it (once I got it Lee-mented).

You can make casting as simple or extravigant as you like, but at the end of the day, it still comes down to pouring molten lead into moulds.

:coffee:

[Doc_Stihl]

I started with the lee molds and I think they're a great way to start. I think the 6 cavitys are less prone to newbish mistakes due to the alignment pins. It's just me, it's a style/method thing I guess.

How would you know how nice the "best stuff" is if you didn't use something else first?

I have ~20 Lee's that I used to find my preferences with. I've cast thousands of bullets with some of my molds. Others, I don't care much for, but for $20, if you don't like it, sell it. No big deal.

I love my ideal/lyman DC/SC molds. There's no way I'd use the old nutcracker style 4 port jobies due to weight and unweildly balance.

A bottom pour pot is a real real real nice helper. I'm getting good at ladle casting, but that has taken me some practice,(mostly while the bottom pour comes to temp after refilling)

And as far as the 240's go. I'd strongly recommend trying the Lee 310. It's a dream round and a very efficient killer. PM me and I'll put some in the mail for you to try if you want.

[fredj338]

buy yourself a 4 cavity lyman 421429 mold or a rcbs 2 cav 250 k or 250 kt. Id say a 2 cav lyman would do but i quit buying them as ive just had to many problems with there 2 cav molds and think there 4 cavity molds are a much better made mold. cast them out of straight ww for anything under 1100 fps and mix lyno and ww 5050 for anything over and you wont go wrong.
THis is the way I would go, A 4cav Lyman or 3-4cav Saeco is a better buy inthe logn run over the Lee & w/ less rejects, just as efficient. It doesn't sound like you need that many bullets. A good 2cav mold will cast 120/hr easily.

[mike in co]

WELL SINCE you want a suppressed load...i'd suggest going to heavy and slow.

lbt 280. lee 300( group buy 290)..........and shooting slow...much eaiser to suppress.


i shoot a 300 at 1000 or so....sure the deer cant tell the diff.
mike in co

[windrider919]

Since you are shooting supressed you would have to stay under the speed of sound on your bullet velocity so as to not generate a sonic boom from the bullet itself. You do not indicate your knowledge / experience in shooting suppressors so I will mention here that the sonic boom from a super sonic bullet is almost as loud as the un-silenced round. Sonic depends on temperature and is between 1000 and 1100FPS. Most users are shooting at 900 to 1000FPS to not accidentally bust the barrier. At this velocity you can use some fairly soft alloys which should give you an edge on expansion.

Of note: Shooting cast grease grooved bullets in a silencer a royal pain in the butt. The grease lubricant comes off the bullet and deposits in the chambers of the unit. It degrades performance and within 200 rounds can cause the sound to come back, it's that bad. Its not noticeable for a couple of hunting rounds but a long target practice session could leave you cussing with a toothbrush and a jar of solvent. Just a Word......

Finally, especially due to the sensitive nature of the topic in the un-enlightened n repressive US which regulates where other countries allow. People here are brainwashed that they "live in the land of the free". They don't recognize that custom binds them as much as the many laws. Anyway. You said "deer sized game" and indicate you (are allowed to) hunt supressed you must not be in the US. None of my bees wax but I'm curious. It is a world wide forum and we have lots of world wide members, some say where they are from and some don't. Could you say where are you from? If not, thats OK too.

[Pmc]

I am quite familiar with suppressor's and hunting. It is legal in TN and I have killed dozens of deer, with 300 whisper's, to subsonic 308's and 44 mags. It really helps when hunting small suburban properties.

I prefer to use 240's. My gun is not twisted to suit the heavier bullets and I don't want a baffle strike. Thanks for the info on lubed bullets clogging cans. It is a major concern and one I need to look into more. I hope that by keeping loads subsonic (in the 950 fps) range it will minimize leading.

Any other thoughts and comments are appreciated.

What about Hollow Point vs. Flat Nose?

Pmc

[BD]

Hunting with suppressed rifles is also allowed in South Carolina. All of the deer "management" hunters I've met are using suppressors, in every state in which they work as far as I know.
BD

[leadeye]

The Ranch Dog 265 might be a fit for you, look around for a six cavity. I've use them with good results in my Marlin.

[MtGun44]

Get some samples and make sure the boolit you are going to use will feed in your
rifle.

I love the 429421 and other Keith clones like 44-250-K RCBS and H&G 503, but they
will not run thru my 92 Browning (Winchester cline), too long.

Bill

[windrider919]

How bout that! I was not aware that those states allowed supressed hunting. People here just have them either as curiosities or they are closet survivalists. Takes the local sheriffs signature and that mostly means only cops can get them. I myself do a little urban varmint control but I went to a re-barreled XS-B50 PCP in .308 with a shrouded n tensioned barrel with air stripper. Not a silencer but it quiets it down enough that people indoors or 50 ft away don't hear it. I can shoot a 110gr bullet 1100fps for 20 shots before I have to pump it up to 3K again.

You use 221 Fireball brass for your 300 Whisper or form 223 brass?

[Pmc]

I have used both. Using Trailboss for subsonic 308's has made the 300 Whisper obsolete.

Pmc

[Bret4207]

Without doubt start learning to cast with a single or 2 cavity. I would lean toward an RCBS mould. Lee's 1 and 2 cav's are iffy, but if you are willing to take some time and OBSERVE then they will work fine too. I would strongly urge you to leave the 6 bangers till you get the hang of a smaller mould. A 6 banger can be 6 times the problems.

[big dale]

[QUOTE.

I have been reloading for about 8 years. I want to cast bullets for some suppressed 44 mag rifles. I have access to lots of WW and possibly some linotype.

I would like your recommendation on a quality 6 cavity 240gr mould. These bullets will be used for hunting deer sized game. End quote.

I have been reloading for the 44 mag with cast bullets since the late 70's. My all time favorite mould block for this has been an old Lee 2 cavity mould for a 255 grain semi wadcutter. This is a plain base bullet. By far most of them were used in a SuperBlackhawk, but I also found it did very well in my old Remmington 788 in 44mag before I got stupid and sold it. That was a big mistake, but it was about 20 years ago and the 600 bucks then seemed like a lot of money. At least I still have the 788 in 30-30.

Big Dale

[Whitespider]

I’m not gonna’ suggest a particular mold, or brand of mold, or even the number of cavities (never used a 4 or 6 cav.). I started (not that long ago) with molds from 4 different makers (all used) and although they all have their own peculiarities I was able to cast good boolits during the first session, and what I think are excellent on the second session. Of course, like you, I asked questions here on this board; none of these guys will steer you wrong and every helpful suggestion is worth a try to see if it fits your style (be ready for some friendly ribbing once they get to know you).

I will suggest starting simple and cheap; I started casing from a cast iron pot and open topped ladle purchased at antique store, over an old electric kitchen stove, pan lubing and a couple Lee push-through sizers (also used). My total cash outlay was just over 35 bucks (not counting molds). I’ve since added a 450 Lube-Sizer, a couple more ladles and a ton of molds (hey guys, does that ever end?). But I’m still dipping from cast iron cookware, over that old stove, and rather enjoy doing it that way; I may never add a bottom pour pot (but that’s just me).

My point is, start on the cheap, with just the necessities, and add equipment as your style and needs dictate. It ain’t the equipment and tools that make really good boolits, it’s the guy holdin’ the mold (well a good mold helps).

[Pmc]

Big Dale - I am loading for a 788 in 44Mag, maybe it's your old one :-D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/pmcal/Rifles/DSCN2119.jpg

Pmc

[windrider919]

Sionics can?

[Pmc]

Gemtech Blackside.

Pmc

[MakeMineA10mm]

Since you are shooting supressed you would have to stay under the speed of sound on your bullet velocity so as to not generate a sonic boom from the bullet itself. You do not indicate your knowledge / experience in shooting suppressors so I will mention here that the sonic boom from a super sonic bullet is almost as loud as the un-silenced round. Sonic depends on temperature and is between 1000 and 1100FPS. Most users are shooting at 900 to 1000FPS to not accidentally bust the barrier. At this velocity you can use some fairly soft alloys which should give you an edge on expansion.

Of note: Shooting cast grease grooved bullets in a silencer a royal pain in the butt. The grease lubricant comes off the bullet and deposits in the chambers of the unit. It degrades performance and within 200 rounds can cause the sound to come back, it's that bad. Its not noticeable for a couple of hunting rounds but a long target practice session could leave you cussing with a toothbrush and a jar of solvent. Just a Word......


This is the best advice of all. Application, twist-rate, suppressed (or not, more usually), and several other factors can change the recommendation of what you should or should not use. Most of the suggestions on this thread were good ones, but seem to lack taking fully into consideration your suppressor. That little factoid trumps a lot of other factors the others have been thinking about.

Since you've got a slow-twist barrel and a suppressor, my recommendation would be to get a RanchDog 265gr RNFP Tumble-Lube. Why?

Because it's heavy enough to load slow, while not so heavy as to not stabilize in your barrel.

Also, the tumble lube clogs your can WAAAAY less.

Third, the RNFP design gives you good shock effect on target with half-way decent feeding. (Though I'm not experienced with the 788, so this may not be a factor...)

I believe RanchDog's are 6-cavity Lee moulds, but I wouldn't let that stop me. I started off with 2-cavity Lymans and quickly advanced to 4-cavity Lymans. When I found the Lee 6-cavities there was more to adjust to from the material the moulds were made from (aluminum, vs. the steel that Lymans are made from) than any issue with the number of cavities in the mould. In any event, I was thankful that the production rate about doubled!!! Many more boolits for the same amount of time and effort spent casting. And, once you get the hang of aluminum, it's not any harder than steel, just different.

[JesterGrin_1]

MakeMineA10MM The Ranch Dog would be a nice round to go with but there is one Problem no more Ranch Dog he closed his doors with no more of those molds to be had. Unless LEE starts to make them. As that was the plan but who knows when or if.

[MakeMineA10mm]

MakeMineA10MM The Ranch Dog would be a nice round to go with but there is one Problem no more Ranch Dog he closed his doors with no more of those molds to be had. Unless LEE starts to make them. As that was the plan but who knows when or if.

DOH!

Here I am, always a day-late and a dollar-short! [smilie=1:

Thanks for the update Jester! :drinks: