Ed's Red

[cheese1566]

Who uses Ed's Red?
I have never used it and I am contemplating mixing a batch. I will use it on everything from SST revolvers, Glocks, Beretta finishes, parkerized military rifles, Gunkote finishes, my AR-15... Will it hurt my finishes if I add acetone, but clean it off immediately?
Plus, I have access (free) to anhydrous lanolin...any comments to add or not?
Not to be rude, but just looking for help with Ed's Red!!

[Bigscot]

It is great stuff. I use it on anything I shoot with lead, shotguns and muzzle loaders. I also use it as a general solvent. It cleans up all sorts of crud. I have turned several people at the range on to it. Try it, you'll like.

Bigscot

[Mugs]

I've read that Marvel Mystery Oil works like Kroil. You might try using MMO in place of ATF. in your Ed's Red.

Mugs
IHMSA 5940L

[DLCTEX]

The original formula used turpentine, and so did I for my first batch. I like the smell (unusual in that most cleaners, solvents, scents bother me) but everyone else complains about it. You probably would be well served to go with the more modern formula. I use lanolin and it is a great lubricant and rust preventative. Be careful about substituting ingredients as there is a reason for all the particular ones used.

[ddeaton]

I use it so far on everything but my tupperware pistols. I am mixed with acetone and really dont want to try it on them.

[cheese1566]

I was thinking of using the formula as written by Harris.
I was contemplating leaving out the acetone in case it will harm the finishes, especially on my AR. I know to be careful and clean up all spills immediately and to keep it away from any plastics.
I have access to the lanolin and was wondering if it was worth it to add.

[mtgrs737]

I use and like Ballistol, it seems to work on everything and it's non-toxic!

[imashooter2]

I use it, with acetone, minus the lanolin. An effective powder solvent, I like that it leaves lubrication on the gun. Worthless for removing copper. I've seen no ill effects on plastic sight inserts, rubber grips, FO sights, AR furniture or finish, gun blue, parkerize or even brief exposure to wood stock finishes. I confess that I don't let spills or splashes sit on wood stocks though.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

"Who uses Ed's Red?"

I make it and use it by the gallon when I'm doing gunsmithing. It's one of the least expensive and most effective gun cleaners you can use. I keep a 50 caliber ammo container half full of the stuff to use as a dunk tank. The ammo lid keeps it sealed.

I do not use the Lanolin in it, as that makes it much more expensive.

"I have never used it and I am contemplating mixing a batch. I will use it on everything from SST revolvers, Glocks, Beretta finishes, parkerized military rifles, Gunkote finishes, my AR-15... Will it hurt my finishes if I add acetone, but clean it off immediately?"

It won't hurt any blued or parkerized finish. Do not know about paint, it probably will hurt paint and I don't recommend you get much on your wood finishes, especially shellac, as it'll strip it off. What I do is lay a towel over the wood or separate wood from metal, depending on firearm. Works great in this application. Does NOT remove copper.


"Plus, I have access (free) to anhydrous lanolin...any comments to add or not?"

If I had access to free anhydrous lanolin, I would absolutely use it, plus keep a jar nearby to use after I've cleaned the gun, cleaned my hands to prevent the Ed's Red from drying out my skin. As it is, I use protective gloves and slather my hands with lotion after a gun cleaning session.

"]Not to be rude, but just looking for help with Ed's Red."

Use and come to appreciate how good Hatcher and that modern chemist were to come up with that.

Best way to use to clean bore:

Soak a patch to dripping wet and run it down the bore. Let sit for 10 minutes to soak. Scrub bore, hit with a second wet patch. Repeat a couple times on really dirty gun. Not a lot of work, mostly a lot of soaking. After a couple times, hit with dry patch to swab and check bore. If clean, lube as needed.

Note: While bore is soaking, clean other parts with GI "toothbrush" and a hand cloth/wrag.

Regards,

Dave

[dromia]

It's fine stuff that has stood the test of time.

Ed's Red mix, and the separate ingredients along with Ammonia meet all my gun cleaning needs now.

My guns are better for it and so is my pocket.

[carpetman]

I use Ed's Red and I added the lanolin. Ed's Red does use acetone. I like it as well as Hoppes.

[Firebricker]

After I mixed my first batch that was it now it's all I use. FB

[Ed Barrett]

I make mine up with lanolin and like to use it at the range while the barrel is still warm. I've found the plastic containers that dish washing liquid comes in with the snap on captive lid work great. have been using one for 2 or 3 years and no ill affects on the plastic. Someone here on this site said the plastic used for liquid detergent was enert to most solvents.

[13Echo]

I made a batch with lanolin and really like it. Like Dale I used terpentine instead of mineral spirits as that was the original Frankford arsenal formula. I enquired why mineral spirits were substituted and was told mostly for smell and some for decreased flammability of the spirits. Since acetone has a much higher vapor pressure and much lower ignition temperature and is an essential part of the formula I wasn't bothered by the flammability issue of terpentine. Besides, I rather like the smell of terpentine.

Jerry Liles

[higgins]

Very good for everything but copper removal. I think it's worth repeating that because if you research it enough you will come across the usual guy who tried it without knowing what he was getting into who will howl "this crap doesn't cut copper". Well no one knowledgeable of ER, including the originator, ever claimed it would effectively remove jacket fouling. I only recently started using it, and in the future it's all I will use on guns firing cast bullets. Apply liberally, let it soak overnight, and it'll loosen lead fouling. Let rusty things soak in it long enough and it's a good rust remover.

[fourarmed]

I use it for cleaning the outside of guns, but it doesn't do nearly as well at removing lead as Kroil.

[Sprue]

Used it for a couple years now, I make it by the quart. In fact I've been replacing all of my "used" up components here lately. I try my best to keep it off the wood stocks, no mishaps to date. It also cuts plastic residue from wads in shotguns too.

Making it in volume you can be a little liberal. I miss the smell of Hoppe's but I've taken a hanker'n to ER.

This subject comes up frequently. Do a search for more trials and tribunes.

[BD]

I make it by the gallon and use it for everything that shoots lead. It cleans and lubes as good as anything else I've tried, except when removing copper deposits.

The lanolin is real helpful for keeping the lube in place. I started using this stuff to protect the edges of the fleshing machine blades in the tannery years ago, and I added extra lanolin for that. I could spin up the machine and apply the Ed's Red to the blades with a spray bottle set to mist as the rpms were winding down and the lanolin would keep it on there in good shape. All the other stuff I'd tried prior had just gotten flung off all over the place forcing me to "bump" the machine, spray one section, then bump it again and spray another section etc. A real PITA.
In that salt and acid atmosphere the edge would rust off a sharp blade while you were at lunch, so they had to be sprayed every time the machine was turned off.

I think it's the acetone that's optional, although a little acetone seems to help it cut the carbon and lube "gunk" that builds up in the nooks and cranys.

All in All, real good stuff and I thank Ed for letting us know how to make it.

BD

[crabo]

Would this product be a viable replacement for Dunk-it from Cylinder and Slide Shop?

[imashooter2]

Would this product be a viable replacement for Dunk-it from Cylinder and Slide Shop?


Absolutely and I have used it for same.

[captaint]

OK, you guys have got me. I even went through 5 pages of classics & stickies. Can't find the recipie for Ed's Red. Can somebody help me out?? Enjoy, Mike

[Calamity Jake]

OK, you guys have got me. I even went through 5 pages of classics & stickies. Can't find the recipie for Ed's Red. Can somebody help me out?? Enjoy, Mike


Try here: http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=48068&highlight=Eds+Red&page=2

Post #22

[cheese1566]

Or do a Google search for it. It's all ovet the internet. I found it on the lasc website: http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm

Brownells started carrying it a few months ago in a small bottle.
:-D

[mroliver77]

I too use the turpintine in mine. I like the smell but the wife hated it. She is gone so now I can clean on kitchen table(when I can find it) without the hassle. ;) I wet barrel after shooting cast boolit gun and let it set till next session(if that is only days or weeks away) A patch or two before shooting and I am into the groove again quickly. As has been said, follow the recipe. This was not "invented" by random mixing of ingredients. Each has a purpose and was picked by a chemist knowlagable in such matters. One thing some say to not use pump K1 kerosene but the ultra refined stuff you find on a shelf. I must admit to using pump K1 and have seen no ill effects. Next batch I will use the mo better stuff')
Jay

[BD]

There is one thing you guys using turpentine should be aware of; turpentine and linseed oil on cotton is famous for spontaneous combustion. I know of two projects that burned this way.

I'm not certain that turpentine and dextron on cleaning patches would act the same, but it might bear watching. The addition of kero and acetone certainly isn't going to slow a fire down either.

BD

[Char-Gar]

I have used Ed's Red for the past few years and I have never found a better powder solvent. It is also a good general cleaner. It is also a very good honing oil, that will keep the stone's surface clean and cutting.

I use acetone, kerosene, mineral spirits and ATF. No lanolin to cut the cost.

[Patrick L]

I use it too. I agree, you still will probably need a dedicated copper solvent for harcore rifle bore cleaning, but for everything else, including routine cleaning of the rifles, Ed's Red is it. I only do the copper solvent thing once a year, at the end of the season.

I use the synthetic kerosene in place of the K1 as it is almost completely odorless, or as close to odorless as anything I've ever found. Its marketed as Kleen Heat in my neck of the woods, and used to be called Clearlite.

I do add the acetone, but only because I do a fair amount of shotgun shooting. The acetone really eats out the plastic wad fouling. For just rifle/pistol use, I'd leave it out.

[13Echo]

For spontaneous combustion to occur with an oil you need a "drying" oil, that is one that reacts with Oxygen to produce a polymerized film. The archytypal oil is linseed oil and it will do the deed with or without terpentine or any other oil or solvent.

The recipie for Ed's Red calls for equal parts of acetone, Dexron II or III ATF, KI deodorized kerosene, and Mineral Spirits (Stoddard's solution). Lanolin is optional and may be up to 400grams per gallon ( I think that's correct). The original Frankford Arsenal formula used spirits of terpentine instead of mineral spirits, and whale oil instead of the ATF. KI deodorized Kerosene is the same as Pratt's Astral oil used in the original formulation. ATF is a synthetic version of whale oil.

Jerry Liles

[captaint]

Thanks all.. Printed that thang right up!! Mike

[Sprue]

Hey Capt....

Here's a good place if you haven't found it already - Click Me ! (http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm)

[JesterGrin_1]

If I leave out the acetone should I make up for the lost volume with the Kerosene K-1 and the Aliphatic Mineral Spirits? Or just leave it a 1 to 1 mix with the three which I have 1Q of DEX III 1Q of Kerosene K-1 and 1Q of Aliphatic Mineral Spirits.

I did not use any lanolin as the local drug stores did not have any. Well they did have it in a small tube but was almost $10.oo for it and I would have needed 8 of them for a pound lol. But I did just order online from a link at the site Sprue Gave. but that will be oh 9 days from now lol. But may add it at that time.

[JesterGrin_1]

Any Help here? ^

[Patrick L]

When I mix it w/o acetone, I just leave it out and do a straight 1:1 ratio of everything else.

[JesterGrin_1]

Thank You Patrick 3 Quarts it is. :)

[13Echo]

Why leave out the acetone? It is one of the main solvents and one that acts as a polar solvent. If you are using Ed's Red as a slovent I think it's good to have in the soup. If you are just using it as a gun oil then leave it out but try and find a source of lanolin. Lanolin really improves the preservative effects.

Jerry Liles

[JesterGrin_1]

Okay Fine lol. I put the acetone in there. :). And I should have the lanolin on monday to melt down and throw in as well.

I did read that I should add 1 pound of Lanolin per gallon of ED's RED correct? Or is this a bit much?

[Mugs]

I leave the Lanolin out and find I get enough protection from the ATF.
Mugs
IHMSA 5940L

[JesterGrin_1]

Well I have put the order in online and so the Lanolin should be here Monday so too late lol. So I will give it a shot or maybe I will use some for Lube instead?

Sorry first time to make this stuff lol. But so far I am glad I did. :)

[The Virginian]

I leave the lanolin out too as it is an extra and not the one of the key ingredients for a solvent. I usually mix two batches, one for cleaning rifles and handguns and another for shotgun bores that has the acetone mixed in. For cleaning the breach/action and parts other than the bore, I use the non acetone formula and find that the ATF protects my guns well enough in my area from rust. I also add a few capfulls of Marvel Mystery Oil and a few shots of Kroil that seems to help lift lead off cylinders and bores very well if left to soak. The K1 kerosene is only part of the "garage" smell, the ATF has surfactants and organo-metallic compounds that make it smell this way too. I don't mind it, but my wife hates the smell, but she tolerates it since I clean all her guns up after a joint range session.

[Wally]

The Virginian

I have been using straight ATF fluid to act as a bore solvent and find it works nicely---was wondering why one needs all the other ingredients as mentioned? Straight ATF seems to work very nicely IMHO.

[imashooter2]

The Virginian

I have been using straight ATF fluid to act as a bore solvent and find it works nicely---was wondering why one needs all the other ingredients as mentioned? Straight ATF seems to work very nicely IMHO.

Because you add the other stuff and it's better.

[Wally]

The advanatage of straight ATF is that it doesn't have much of an odor...it seems to be a great solvent and it acts as an lubricant as well. I use it on my reloading press rams...it is excellent, better than grease or motor oil IMHO.

[Freischütz]

Now if could just get it to smell like Hoppes Nr 9.

[imashooter2]

Add amyl acetate, "banana oil."

[10 ga]

As I shoot a lot of muzzleloader sabots and shotguns I use it to keep the plastic buildup to a minimum. It can get really thick on shotgun chokes. I have found Eds Red to do about the best job of taking the plastic off and keeping the buildup from happening so fast. It will clean any kind of powder residue up. I just make sure I'm shooting a dry bore when using the MLs. I use the modern formulation but have seperate batches, one with lanolin and one without. Use the lanolin formula when cleaning up before a longer term of storage. Use the one without lanolin on the range and when doing a lot of shooting day to day. 10 ga