First Post! Hi guys I am Crutch. I hope you can help me out, if you would be so kind. [Archive]

Crutch

06-26-2009, 07:12 PM

Hey guys. I have been trolling your boards for a while now, and I finally decided to join.

I am a regular member of the survivalist boards, and some members recommended I come here to learn about reloading. I have to admit, I hate going into something knowing nothing. I have read tons of posts and still have many questions. I realize it gets old saying the same things over, so I will try and be specific, and I apologize in advance if I missed something. (like a sticky, or end all thread) I also apologize for any terminology I will butcher.

My goal is to cast my .270 Remmington 7400 rounds. I have never reloaded anything, and I bought a Lee Load Master kit. I also want to reload my ak47.
Here is my question. How do I do it? (kidding.)

My question is, do I have to have the Gas Check for these rounds, when using bullets I made from wheel weights? I don't mind having a less powerful round, in fact prefer it, if it keeps the dropped brass close and saves on powder. As long as it cycles through all three I don't expect my of the 7.62's to be considered accurate.

I called Midway and I have an order Pending on the Molds, Lube, resizer, and even the Gas Checks. If I need them, or you recommend me getting them, that is fine.

I also have a sks. Is there a way to make a 7.62x39 round that works in all three rifles? With out Gas check?

Here is a list of the rifles in detail. I have been here long enough to know you guys need specifics. If you need any other info, please let me know. Thank you in advance guys. I again apologize for being new. Links appreciated if I am asking a question to annoying/over asked to answer.

Chinese Norinco Mac90 Sporter- .312
Romania ak47- .311
Chinese sks- .313

The guys at Lee said casting .270 rounds was stupid. They discontinued making the molds because the Lead rounds wouldn't hold up under that speed and pressure. If that's true, then fine. However, I would rather not buy any FMJ rounds if I don't have to.

IHMSA

06-26-2009, 07:21 PM

HI Crutch,

Welcome to the board! (I'm a newbie too) there are a lot of people here that are much more knowledgeable than I am. That being said, IMO you are going to need a pretty hard alloy if you insist on no GC.

I don't think WW are going to work for you. Read carefully concerning quenching. I think you're going to have to.

Here is a good place to start:

www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm

ktw

06-26-2009, 07:31 PM

The guys at Lee said casting .270 rounds was stupid. They discontinued making the molds because the Lead rounds wouldn't hold up under that speed and pressure. If that's true, then fine.

It's really not practical to cast for a 270 if your expectation is to equal jacketed bullet perfomance (130gr @3000+ fps).

It is practical if your expectation involves a more moderate load (110-150gr @1800-2200fps). You should expect to have to heat treat WW alloy and use gas checks for this level of performance.

-ktw

sundog

06-26-2009, 07:35 PM

mooman76

06-26-2009, 07:36 PM

Big welcome to the board. I won't be much help either. I shoot mostly pistol with cast and most the rifle I shoot are lower pressure rifle rounds like 30 carbine and bolt actions with light loads. I will say though that what you want is deffinately doable. I know of people that do. I don't know why Lee told you what they did. Vertually every cartridge is doable in cast with the right adjustments or formula. Yes 270 would probably take a little more doing but it can be done also. Gas checks will make it easier to do what you want especially since you are starting out and you could push the bullets a little harder if you wish.

Crutch

06-26-2009, 07:38 PM

It's really not practical to cast for a 270 if your expectation is to equal jacketed bullet perfomance (130gr @3000+ fps).

It is practical if your expectation involves a more moderate load (110-150gr @1800-2200fps). You should expect to have to heat treat WW alloy and use gas checks for this level of performance.

-ktw

I don't expect an equal, no. I am looking for something cheap.

That sounds terrible and deserves flames, so let me reword it. I want to be able to make a bullet that will fire from my .270, the quality at this time isn't all that important... that sounds worse.

A moderate load working with out the gas check would be great.

Crutch

06-26-2009, 07:40 PM

Hi Crutch, I think we can 'hep' you out. Which did you come in?

Sounds like you have a steep learning curve but lots of desire. I would suggest we help you discover which one would be best to start with and concentrate on it, get the basics down, get successful with..., then go on to something else.

It could be that someone here might even gift you a handful of boolits for one application as a starter, to do the load and shoot, to see if it's even what you want. THEN think about cast.

Do you have a good supply of wheel weights or other lead source? Rendering pot and tools? Heat source? Safety garb? It can be pricey even on the cheap just to get started and then find out, nope, this ain't gonna work for me. Let's all talk some more.

I used all my tax return money to buy survival stuff.

That included 9 filled buckets of wheel weights, and the complete Lee Load master kit, and dies in both sizes.

I have a (I think its called) dutch oven. I also have a propane stove. I can buy a different kind if need be. They are like 20 bucks at walmart.

I do taxidermy, safety equipment I have readily on hand.

I have watched a ton of videos off youtube in regards to casting bullets. I realize the dangers of lead, and the need for safety equipment. I think I have all I need in that department. I wonder though, which mold I should get.

Bret4207

06-26-2009, 08:35 PM

Okay, first off welcome aboard. Second, don;t listen to the guys at Lee or anyone else who says casting for ANYTHING is nuts. There's nothing at all wrong with a nice 130 gr boolit loping along at 1500 fps. It might not cycle your action, but you'll be shooting and that would make a great small to medium game load. 270 moulds are out there if you look. They still go fairly cheap since everyone else apparently feels like the guys at Lee. If you can get a copy of "The Art of Casting Bullets" from Wolfe publishing Jim Carmichael did several good articles on the 270. Gas checks will be a big help and you may end up getting them right from Hornady. People shoots the 270, 25-06, 6.5-06 and 280 Rem with cast, the only difference is the bore size and expansion ratio. Most anyone who can get a 280 shooting cast can do it with a 270 too. You'll need to clean the barrel of all copper fouling before trying cast.

There's tons of info here, When you get a specific problem, ask away.

docone31

06-26-2009, 08:47 PM

Crutch.
You can fire the .270 with cast. You can crank them out!
Paper Patch!
I paper patch my .30s and run full tilt loads. Great stuff!
Welcome to this board.
They sure helped me.

Pepe Ray

06-26-2009, 08:51 PM

snaggdit

06-26-2009, 09:29 PM

Welcome! Compared to most of these guys I am new at reloading (one year) and even newer at casting. That said, I believe I have become fairly proficient at both. This didn't take that long, thanks to all the great guys (and some gals) on this forum. I cast for a Yugo SKS as well as a 30-06. I got the Lee 312-155gr 2R (mine drops .313+)for use in them both then discovered that the 30-06 really needed a heavier boolit. I then got the Lee 309-180gr 1R for that. My SKS slugged at .3115 so I took my Lee .311 sizer and bumped it to .313 by pushing cast slugs through it with fine valve grinding compound.

Chinese Norinco Mac90 Sporter- .312
Romania ak47- .311
Chinese sks- .313

.313 should work for all, but the chinese SKS might want a slightly larger boolit. All you can do is try and see if you get leading from a .313 boolit. You will really need to gas check these. I'm not sure if you can get a mold that is not made for a gas check. If you try it without one and it is made for one you WILL get gas blowby and get leading. Using WW water dropped will do fine for what you are looking to do.

The push through sizer is pretty cheap. So are gas checks. 7.62 brass on the other hand is hard to come by. I bit the boolit and bought a 1000 new IMI brass from Wideners. Since all SKS's tend to fling the brass to parts unknown I would recommend a brass catcher/stop for range time. I've seen simple ones made with screening and PVC, some mounted in 50 cal ammo cans to collect it.

Hope this helps, just post with more questions as they come up. I do. I could send you a hundred or so gas checked 155gr .313 boolits for you to try in your 7.62's. Drop me a PM with your address.

badgeredd

06-26-2009, 09:36 PM

Crutch,
Welcome.
I'd suggest that you start working with the SKS. Several here have used the Lee mold for it, I believe it about 150 grain boolit. I've had good luck with the Lyman 311291 in mine sized to .312 for my gun. I am getting 1700 to 1900 FPS (depending on powder and load density) and the action cycles well. Accuracy is reasonable at 2"+/- at 75 yards. I haven't any doubt that I can get it better as others have with their guns. Oh yeah, one other thing. You'll likely be better off starting with a gas check boolit before trying to go with a plain base boolit. It IMO would be easier to get a good satisfactory load with a GC boolit.

My 2 cents worth.

Edd

HeavyMetal

06-26-2009, 09:52 PM

I've used the Lee mold in my Mak 90 and have been happy with the results.

I will also second the suggestion of leaving those progressive press's in the box for awhile.

Progressive press's are nice to "crank out" a load if you have one that works! Using one to work up a load will drive you nuts and turn you off on the whole reloading thing.

A good used single stage press, like an RCBS Rockchucker or a Lee Challanger will get you everthing you need and help you learn the right way to get ammo that goes bang.

My experience, and yes I know other will disagree, is that a boolit that is designed for a check will not perform as well without the check on it as it will with it. Your choice is add the check or have the mold modified to remove the check. You can also look for a plain base mold for your specific rifle.

With experience come knowledge! Once you get the outfit to make ammo your happy with you can experiment with things like paper patching. This can give you some incredible accuracy and speed or so I've heard.

I am way to lazy to wrap paper around my boolits. That's also why I don't shoot the Holy Black, although some day I may yet do both just for grins.

doghawg

06-26-2009, 10:31 PM

Crutch

I've been an avid handloader for nearly 40 years but just started casting last year. My suggestion is (as others have said) to leave the progressive in the box. Then get a basic hands-on knowledge of handloading with a single stage press before you take on bullet casting. Get a couple good loading manuals and read them.

wallenba

06-26-2009, 10:50 PM

If it was practical and reliable to make a cast boolit for that type of round, I would think that the bean counters for the military budgets would specify them, as they would be much cheaper. I am assuming though, I'm not very knowledgable about your type of weapons, as I only load for one rifle and I use jacketed commercial bullets, I only use it in rifle deer season (Ruger M77 .308W).

Bill*

06-26-2009, 10:55 PM

Crutch: I hope you meant lurking rather than trolling [smilie=1: Oh...By the way,...Welcome

Le Loup Solitaire

06-26-2009, 11:01 PM

Hi and welcome aboard. You have a broad spectrum to deal with in getting started and you will need a lot of input, advice and reading to do. Ask as many questions as you can/need to; you will always be helped with experience and advice. You can succesfully load 270 or any other caliber with casts or bullets that are commercially made. The suggestion to acquire and read "The Art of Bullet Casting" is an excellent one. I would also suggest the ABC's of Reloading...all and any editions by Dean Grennell starting with #1 to present. I second the motion about the Lee Loadmaster being put away for a while and something else used until you learn the basics. Low cost single stage presses are around and work well. The Loadmaster and other progressives are not easy to set up...(never mind what is written on the box) for even someone who is middling experienced and it can be a terrible source of frustration and even an empty number of loaded casings that result in bullets being stuck in the barrel not to mention double charges in others that will blow up your gun and/or hurt you or others.. No one wants or needs those kinds of events. Think of it as being a beginning driver and someone puts you in an Indy Car and sends you out on the track You can search and find an enormous amount of info right here on the forum by doing searches for example on "Castpics" and formal articles written by experienced members. You need to acquire and absorb knowledge which will enable you to make wise and correct decisions and help you avoid mistakes. It'll require some patience and practice as well. So hang in there for a while. Good luck. LLS

MT Gianni

06-26-2009, 11:09 PM

The Lyman 311410 is a 130 gr plain base bullet almost made for the 7.62x39. Accuracy in my guns has been poor. I use a checked bullet with much better results. I shoot cast in '06, 280 and several others. I get good results in all with checked bullets. I would suggest that plain based bullets in a rifle are best left to pistol cartridges and the 444/45-70. If someone no longer offers a product they will not recommed it either. There are plenty of molds made that will fit in a 270. I recommend buying some bullets from Bullshop, link at the bottom of this page, and seeing what fits for you. FWIW I shoot almost all rifle cartridges ww air cooled not water dropped and run them to 2200 fps. Bullet fit is more important then hardness.

geezer56

06-26-2009, 11:10 PM

Crutch, just where in NC are you located? If you are in the western part, PM me. I may be able to help you with some stuff, I've been doing this for a while. I don't know every thing, but the 3% I do know is great fun, and practical to boot.

Echo

06-27-2009, 12:12 AM

One caution I would make.=
You've obviously got a huge learning curve ahead of you. Don't compound it unnecessarily by biting off too much at the start.
Leave the Load Masters in the boxes for at least a year. Pick up any inexpensive (pre owned) single stage press to learn on.
I'll leave with that because I truly believe it will be your best ,first move.
Pepe Ray

+1 for Pepe Ray - Walk before you try to run. I saw a Lee single stage press this PM on eBay for about $35 delivered. That, and an RCBS 5-10 scale, and a Powder measure, will have you reloading for about $100, and you will learn the ins and outs MUCH better than you will with a more sophisticated rig. And Lee has their Anniversary Set available for about $100, too. Once you have reloaded a couple of thousand rounds on that rig, THEN fire up the Load Master.

I volunteer at the local county range. A year or so ago an older fellow showed up with a matched pair (consecutive serial nos.!) of Colts. Wanted to get into CAS, and had the money to buy everything new, including a Dillon 1050! Loaded up, pulled the trigger, and the gun went pfft. No powder. Lodged the bullet in the forcing cone, so nothing worked - hammer wouldn't cock, cylinder wouldn't turn, &cetera. Had to go to a gunsmith and plead stupidity. More money than sense.

I know you aren't that way, or else you wouldn't be here on this site.

And welcome to the best forum on the net.

44man

06-27-2009, 08:07 AM

You might need "small base" dies for the 7400 or loaded rounds will not chamber. Semi autos and pump guns usually need the lower part of the shell sized a little more.
Long ago I loaded the .270 for a Rem 760 and never had a problem using regular dies but I have seen many others where a round would not chamber. Easy to see by sizing a fired case and dropping it in the chamber to see if the action closes and locks easy.

Bret4207

06-27-2009, 08:08 AM

I completely missed the progressive loader part. Ditto what the others said, hold off on that and start with a single stage press, a 1 or 2 cavity mould and aim for loads in the 14-1600 fps range to start with. You have a steep learning curve ahead.

mdi

06-27-2009, 02:29 PM

Lots of advise so far, mostly good. I too recommend a single stage press as you will learn a lot of the "theories" about each step of reloading, and a progressive is not necessary unless you need 500+ rounds a week. FIRST though, I say get some reloading manuals. Lyman's Reloading handbook, ABCs of Reloading, Lee Modern Reloading, one or two from a bullet manufacturer and one or two from a powder manufacturer. These manuals have a "how to" section that covers most reloading proceedures questions. If you are going to cast or use cast boolits get Lymans Cast Bullet Handbook. It's easy to refer back to any one of these manuals and to compare load data (yes it does vary).

Reloading is a safe, fun, fulfilling part of shooting and you can get better than store bought ammo (customized ammo for your individual gun). Go slow and enjoy!

Crutch

06-27-2009, 04:09 PM

Crutch.
You can fire the .270 with cast. You can crank them out!
Paper Patch!
I paper patch my .30s and run full tilt loads. Great stuff!
Welcome to this board.
They sure helped me.

I don't know what Paper patching is. :confused:

I think I better start reading up, before I even attempt my first bullet. I will look for those books you guys suggested.

Also, sorry I meant Lurker. LOL not troll. I just answered the Lurker Challege that was posted. I just don't see how you guys have the patience for noobs like me. Then again, you guys reload, so I guess that should answer it! A forum for snipers, you guys are great.

I honestly might not have the patience for this... however, I am rather in deep money wise.

Crutch

06-27-2009, 04:29 PM

Will this one work? For my ak?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=767788

snaggdit

06-27-2009, 05:23 PM

It fits the bill for what you seem to want to do. I would still urge you to try a gas check model. Buy a Lee mold and the push through sizer and gas checks and you will still be less than the lyman and the handles (which come separately and are backordered). Besides, if you have poor results you will sour on the whole idea fast. I would like to see you have success out of the gate. Just my input. Here is the one I would suggest:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=752956

jdgabbard

06-27-2009, 07:22 PM

You are going to want a gas check. An alternative to buying checks is to buy either Pat Marlin's tool or a FreeChex II. They'll allow you to make checks out of soda cans and whatnot.

+1 on getting a single stage press to learn on. I own three, and wouldn't trade them for anything. Progressive is nice, althought I like to take the time to make sure each round is loaded to MY spec. Not just "shootable" spec.

+1 on doing some reading. Both from books and from here. Honestly, I spent probably two or three months doing nothing but reading books and reading article on the internet before I ever seated a primer. Take your time, be patient, and remember that you can still stock up on what you'll need without having to load it up. Learn first, and make fewer mistakes later.

Edubya

06-27-2009, 10:40 PM

Crutch, if your in South-Central NC, you can come see what I've got and am doing. I did very little reloading prior to getting heavy into it about two years ago when I bought my Dillon 550 RL, a progressive loader.( I live in Pinehurst and have a small business in Aberdeen, if you're interested, send me a PM.) I've since got into casting and have cast several thousand bullets. I'm only shooting and loading pistols but I'm sure that many aspects are the same. I have learned a lot from this forum and a lot from the books. I would suggest that you do the same.

I use to buy my cast bullets from several different sources and was disappointed in most of them. The only commercial bullets (non-loaded) that I found that responded to my expectations were Speer and Hornady, they cost as much as most loaded target bullets. I figured that I could cast one that was as good as the Speer and Hornady and be able to shoot those good bullets 'til the sun goes down on my tired old a$$. I cannot say that I've achieved my goals yet but the journey has been enlightening!
Good luck, whichever way that you go,
EW

Recluse

06-27-2009, 11:31 PM

Howdy and welcome to the World's Largest Small Town.

First, sell the Loadmaster. You indicated you might not have the patience for this--if you don't, the Loadmaster will guarantee you THE most miserable experience ever trying to grasp, then master the art and science of reloading.

And lest you think I'm bashing Lee, please don't--my bench is probably 60% or better "red" (Lee equipment) including my beloved old Pro1000 that has caused MANY a reloader--experienced and novice alike--to swear off reloading forever. I love the thing.

But the Loadmaster. . . . ugh. And for a brand new novice who's yet to even pull the handle. . . double ugh.

In over thirty years, I have yet to load up any rifle round on a progressive press. Now, if I start shooting more .223 or 7.62x39, I may go back and get another Dillon 550B. Fantastic press, but not a good machine to do load development. Even worse to try and learn reloading with.

My suggestion is to get the Lee Classic Cast single stage, OR the Lee Classic Turret. The Turret is a good compromise between the rapidity of an indexing progressive press versus a single stage. I'm thinking very hard about adding a Classic Turret to my bench for just that same reason.

Gas checks? Absolutely. No ifs, ands or buts about it. If it's 30 caliber and going to fire out of one of my guns, it gets a gas check--no exceptions whatsoever. It's a huge variable I can instantly eliminate by gas-checking the boolits.

At around $30/1000, you're not really adding much at all to the overall cost of reloading for long gun calibers. But what you'll gain in consistency, ability to increase velocity, accuracy, less or no leading. . . the extra penny or two per round will seem like the smartest thing you ever did.

I agree with starting your learning curve with the SKS. I picked up a Lee .3121552R mould a while back specifically for my SKS. Helluva good boolit! I've developed a good load for it in my 30-06 as well, and am real close to having a great load for my Enfield .303 as well. Three different firearms, one fine boolit. You gotta love casting and reloading.

The .270? Sure you can, it's just going to take a bit of time and experimenting. Not everyone who casts does so to mimic factory loads. I certainly don't. Often times, I do it to best and exceed factory loads and that often times means lowering my velocities, believe it or not.

Quite honestly, I'd expend my gray-matter energies on learning the fundamentals of reloading first, then casting, but that's just me.

Anyhow, again, welcome to a great world.

:coffee:

Slow Elk 45/70

06-27-2009, 11:46 PM

++++++ for what everyone is saying, all good info, also look at the Goatlips stickie for getting started casting, tools eqt. methods, check out the LASC site for a ton of casting info also, don't be timid about asking questions, give as much info as possible to get good answers without a lot of questions. Good Luck and Welcome.:castmine::Fire::Fire:

Goatlips

06-28-2009, 12:48 AM

Thanks for the plug, Slow Elk;

Crutch, here's my beginner's site that may be useful for a few things but just coming to Cast Boolits is the best step you'll have taken. This thread should serve as an example of how an interested prospective caster and reloader is treated by the real pros.

http://goatlipstips.cas-town.com/index.html

Goatlips

Bob Krack

06-28-2009, 09:33 AM

Hi Crutch,

Welcome. I too, have and have had many aspirations that might have been associated with one or more of the "survivalist movements".

Mostly all really good advice you have received so far (here). 'Specially, leave the progressive loader in it's box 'til you have advanced a whole bunch.

First off, Lee makes a very "light duty" press that many use just for push through sizing. They sell it AND their loading and instruction manual for any place from $29 to $50. That will be fine for you to start with and may very well become your sizer/de-capper/neck sizer/or boolit seater station. Again, 'specially until you gain lots more experience.

As for operating your semi-autos, the heavier the boolit - the better your chance for sucess (in my opinion). The heavier the boolit, the higher the gas pressure for a given velocity (generally speaking). Sounds to me like your goal is to shoot a bunch rather than drive tacks?

Gas checks are another subject by themselves. Generally, gas checks are good for rifles. More accuracy, more consistency, less "leading?".

Inexpensive gas check makers are available as mentioned above. Fillers can work but that is another whole new subject. Plain base boolits can be made to work fairly well, and yes, one mould can work for all three .30s. Paper-Patching is another method to possibly solve the leading and accuracy issues. A small thin piece of paper is wrapped around a boolit and then loaded - paper and all. "Paper Patching" is the forum here that will make you want to know lots more on forget about it.

On to more confusion and hopefully on to much more knowledge!

Bob

6.5 mike

06-28-2009, 12:53 PM

Hi crutch. Listen to the others about the books, presses & lee moulds/sizers. I've been loading my own on a single stage rcbs rockchucker I bought new in a navy exchange in 1973, gives you some idea how long, with a little care, one of this will last.
I'm farly new to the world of cast boolits also, but ,with the help from the folks here have learned more then I though possible. All you have to do is ask ,someone here will answer. And if we don't have the answer, we'll find it. welcome to the best thing i've found on the net.

Bigscot

06-28-2009, 10:02 PM

Crutch,

I'm up the road from Edubya in Apex. If your close by I would be glad to help you out.

Edubya, where do you shoot? We should get together sometime. I get to Ed's every so often. Am due a visit there soon.

Bigscot

TAWILDCATT

06-29-2009, 05:56 PM

I agree that a progressive is not the way to start.BUT I DISAGREE ON THE SINGLE STAGE.I do recomend the lee turret,either the regular or the cast.BECAUSE YOU CAN USE IT AS A SINGLE STAGE AND HAVE ALL YOUR DIES KEPT IN THE TURRET.
I have a couple and have powder measures dedicated to one load on the turret.
as to the loadmaster I have a friend that does commersial loading who has very good luck withe the loadmaster,but he is a machinist that under stands how to run them,as I do.I have them all single, turrets.old and new.I believe the cast bullets for the SKS are heavy 150 gr which works the action,with less presure.
if one was a machinist he could bush the gas hole smaller and it would not slam so hard.the gun is made to slam,so it will work in combat.:coffee:[smilie=1:

Pepe Ray

06-29-2009, 06:29 PM

TAWILDCATT;
I would have said that but didn't want to start a stink.
""
I agree that a progressive is not the way to start.BUT I DISAGREE ON THE SINGLE STAGE.I do recomend the lee turret,either the regular or the cast.BECAUSE YOU CAN USE IT AS A SINGLE STAGE AND HAVE ALL YOUR DIES KEPT IN THE TURRET. ""

Also, spending someone elses money is a Demo. trick I don't partake in. :roll:
Carry on,
Pepe Ray

testhop

06-29-2009, 07:59 PM

welcome aboard .
you have been given some very good jnfo from some highly experanced loaders and casters .
i would add the 270 is fractory loaded hot up to 54000 psi.
the 270 is my favorate deer rifles .
i load the 110 gr hornady loaded down to 2700 fps and it kills like the hammer of thor .
this is something to keep in mind for your light load.

bingo

06-30-2009, 09:09 PM

Crutch welcome

I am assuming you sluged your barrels and you are giving us the bore dia. Boolit fit to bore is most inportant. Generally 1 or 2 .000 over bore works well.

Buy a Lee 312-155 or 160 2 banger ( not expensive). Start with the sks and see what they drop at(softer alloy will make bigger boolits). If they are not bigger than 313 then hone out the mold or Beagle it(you can find threade on both). Lets say you get 315 boolits but they are to big for the aks. Just get a Lee sizer or 2 (about $15) and size to 313 314, and you can set the gas checks at the same time.

This will get you one mold for all 3 rifles. Hope this helps.

Note: shooting cast in semi autos is fine but pay special attn. to cleaning your gas cyl.

Bingo

bingo

07-04-2009, 09:02 PM

Correction on my last post.

Harder alloy makes bigger boolits.

Bingo

looseprojectile

07-04-2009, 11:07 PM

Bore is different than Groove. Bore is smaller than groove. Therefore groove is larger than bore. Most boolits work better if they are a little larger than groove.
Sorry, one of my pet peeves.

Life is good

Wayne Smith

07-05-2009, 10:50 AM

I don't expect an equal, no. I am looking for something cheap.

That sounds terrible and deserves flames, so let me reword it. I want to be able to make a bullet that will fire from my .270, the quality at this time isn't all that important... that sounds worse.

A moderate load working with out the gas check would be great.

First, welcome to the site. You don't sound terrible in the above post, you sound like us! You may have found a home here. Despite all the high falutin' posts on RPM's and such esoteria we are all basically practical people who have found something that is either fun in it's own right or that allows us to shoot cheaply.

You are starting on three learning curves. I suggest you separate them out.

First, learn to reload. Start simple, use condom bullets, and a simple, one at a time type of reloading. Buy one or several loading manuals and learn all the ins and outs of the process.

Second, learn boolit casting and shooting. This is as steep a learning curve as reloading and is deeper than reloading can ever be.

Third, and these can overlap if you desire, learn progressive reloading. If, after steps one and two above, you decide you really want to do this. Most don't. High volume shooters do.

Crutch

07-06-2009, 01:21 AM

I have been reading for the last week or so.

I am not writing this to bump the thread, nor to annoy you guys. I just wanted to personally from the bottom of my heart thank all of you.

I honestly have never in my life, found a forum of nicer, more mature, friendly people in my entire life. I am not butt kissing, I just sit in amazement with how awesome you guys have been.

I still have much to read. Thank you guys for the links. I am going to take some of you up (if the offer is still good) on first hand, learning how to load. I couldn't be more nervous. However, before we get to that, I have much to learn. I am more then willing to pay for your assistance. I just don't want to blow my hand off, or worse. I am more then willing to donate wheel weights, or what ever is appropriate.

Thank you guys for your help, and Godbless.

Jim_Fleming

07-06-2009, 05:57 AM

Welcome Crutch, I can see that you're trying to standardize and keep things simple for your 7.62 x 39 weapons, good on you! Several Posters have already stated the obvious so I'll not re-cover that. .270 Winchester is definitely doable. I like the Paper Patch idea, if you're willing to work, (obviously you are!) then Paper Patching will keep the leading away.

I'm not all that new to reloading, (haven't done it for years, though), same for casting but I am rather new to this most EXCELLENT message board. Welcome to your new home.

Use these excellent and generous folk's tips, and advice Crutch, they've done a lot of the experimenting that you're going to have thousands of questions about. They've done just about anything you can think of, including the mistakes that they can steer you clear of.