case head separation ! 303 Brit

[superior]

I have a broken shell stuck in my chamber...I haven't tried to disloge it yet. Is there a possible quick-fix before I order a broken shell extractor? It was a perfect separation about 3/8 inch or so from the case head.:(

[zxcvbob]

Stuff a patch into the case mouth (to plug it), fill the case from the back with melted lead, then tap it out with a brass rod?

[Bob in Revelstoke]

Case separation: Sometimes the case can be pushed out using a tight patch on a cleaning rod.

A 303 is well known for case head separation. I got a piece of cold roll steel, drilled a hole in one end and inserted an old tap. I take the bolt out, insert the rod and tap, give it a slight turn and pull the case out.

I reload a lot for my 303s and inspect each case before reloading looking for a bright shiny ring just ahead of the case head or slight crack, but no matter what, a separation can occur. If you are loading cast boolits the cases will last much longer. Full house loads will shorten their life considerably. Remember, they are a military rifle and were not intended for reloading but at todays prices it just about the only way.

[dromia]

All good solutions 'till the extractor gets to you. Once you have the extractor then you'll probably never need it again, such is sods law!

For the .303" neck size only after first firing.

Check the headspace, what number Enfield is it?

Check brass visualy externally, and internally with a feeler probe for potential separation signs.

[twidget]

Try a bronze bore brush pushed in from the breech end into the case neck and then pulled out. If the case isn't badly stuck it should come right out. I also found that a .30-06 broken shell extractor works in the .303.

twidget

[superior]

Thanks for all of the ideas, guys but while I was off line, I found an old tap and die set that I bought 7 years ago to do a heli-coil job on my Toyota exhaust manifold. I used a few ordinary household tools to crank one of the 5 taps inside the broken shell, then tapped the whole assembly right out with a cleaning rod inserted into the muzzle! Awesome..a few gentle taps and bingo. It's a no1-mk3 with a 1942 bbl. I neck size with Lee collet die but lately, I've been working on full house hunting loads ( 314299 at 2200fps) The offending case had been fired previously about 6 times..( 3 with Lee TL-160@ 19gr A2400 and 3 with Lee c-312-185@40gr H4895)

[Hardcast416taylor]

I found that by pushing a .38 cal. bronze bore brush up into the broken case to just past the case mouth and pulling backward on the cleaning rod the case part will come out. A more permanent fix would be to find a higher number bolt head to ease some of the head space problem. Robert

[NickSS]

Larger bore brushes work well t remove stuck cases or you can do a quick shell remover by cutting a section of coat hanger wire to about 6 to 8 inches and bend one end in a U shape small enough across the U to slide into the chamber. Just shove it in and pull it out. The case should come with it.

[Bret4207]

The tap method has never failed for me. Just turn it in lightly.

[docone31]

I have several #1s. I use the Lee Collet Dies.
So far, I have not had case head seperation. Some of my shells are getting thin, but, it has been after many reloadings. Firing castings makes a large pressure difference. Firing paper patched loads seems to be the same.
So far, I have not had to get one out. I did get a jam with a jacketed load once. I kinda forgot to put powder in the case. The primer pushed the jacketed into the bore enough to not be able to just push it out. It was one of my .311 jacketeds instead of the .312 I switched to.
I suspect, one day I will be a vet on case head seperation also.
I got some good ideas from this thread on the "what if."

[jonk]

When I got this, I would insert a small screwdriver into the chamber at an angle so the blade pressed against the left side of the broken casing and the shaft against the extractor groove in the barrel face. Then just auger it out. Unless you have a rough chamber...

[Bloodman14]

Echo (BROWNELL'S) makes a good extractor. Cheap insurance! $17.00 when I bought mine umpteen years ago.

[Mk42gunner]

All good solutions 'till the extractor gets to you. Once you have the extractor then you'll probably never need it again, such is sods law!


I knew there was a reason I didn't object strongly when the 30-06 and 7.62 broken shell extractors jumped ship and landed in my tool box. [smilie=1:

Lucky so far,

Robert

[blaser.306]

Heard from an older shooter , Namely my uncle who has long since passed that a good way to prevent separation due to excesive headspacing was (1) go to the next higher available bolt face and (2) run 30/40 crag brass thru your f/l .303 sizing die as the rim is slightly thicker therfore tightening up internal dimentions . To be taken with a grain of salt of course but in my own experience it hs seemed to work .

[dromia]

Heard from an older shooter , Namely my uncle who has long since passed that a good way to prevent separation due to excesive headspacing was (1) go to the next higher available bolt face.

Size numbered bolt heads are only applicable to No 4 rifle bolts and actions.

[303Guy]

Size numbered bolt heads are only applicable to No 4 rifle bolts and actions. That's true but NoI's also had different length bolt heads - just un-numbered. I am just wondering why a separated case body would not just drop out? If the separation was caused by excess head space or full length resizing it should have just dropped out. If it was stuck in there it means the case body bound to the chamber wall and that caused the head separation. Always lube 303 Brit cases before firing! Just a light smear or roll on the lube pad is all that is needed. And as said above, never full body size the cases paying particular attention to the shoulders. The Brit must headspace on the shoulder, not the rim. If for some reason the fired case won't rechamber, the loads are way too hot. My bolt closes firmly onto my reloaded rounds. I have 25 year old cases that I still reload. My cases never grow and never need trimming.

For extracting a stuck case body without risk of damage, use a brass bolt that will grip the inside of the case.

[dromia]

The No 1 bolts heads were different sizes but not in the specified way of the the No 4s.

No 1s were faced to the particular rifles needs so the only way of knowing the size of any specific No1 bolt head is to measure them.

The numbereing on No 4 bolt heads means that they are specific size.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Hi, If you don't have a broken case extractor then the following method will also work. Take a longer-than-barrel length of unthreaded rod-1/4" diameter and cut a 1" slot in one end. Sharpen the inside edge ends with a file. Spread the ends wider than the inside diameter of the case. Push the rod in from the chamber end and pull the rod at the muzzle end until the spreaded slot is well inside the broken case. It will compress inside the case and when you tap the rod from the muzzle end, the sharpened ends of the slot will dig in to the case walls and the case will come out of the chamber. Works slick! LLS

[mto7464]

what kind of brass were you using?

[Four Fingers of Death]

If you shoot competition or hunt, it is worth while buying a proper extractor. It means that your shooting is only interrupted for a minute or so and you are back in business. PITA trudging back to camp to get some tools to fix the problem.

Probably wise to use new or once fired brass for hunting trips. Bit different if you are hunting locally or in your backyard. Cheap insurance for a common problem.

Four Fingers.

[superior]

The broken case was a Federal which was initially fired with a full house factory 180gr j-word softpoint. I now carry my improvised broken shell remover in my gun bag at all times. I guess I should have pulled the original bullet, avoiding the stress of the original factory load.

[Bubba w/a 45/70]

Will a 7.62x54R shellextractor work in the 303? I have those....and if they work :)

[Dave In The Desert]

Get a .45 caliber bore brush (or one that is slightly worn) insert your cleaning rod thru the bore until the end is poking out the barrel. Screw on the .45 bore brush and wrap lightly with bore leading wool (Brownells has it). Note..if you have a brand new .45 cal brush you may not need this extra step because the tension will be enough. After screwing on the brush pull it back down the barrel. It should feel like there is a fair amount of tension. Once you get to the separated case the brush will go inside the case and the tension will hold it there....keep pulling and it should just come out with the cleaning rod. This method will normally work about 95% of the time but on some cases (depending on brass thickness) you may need to go with the conventional "broken shell extractor." Hope this will help!

[Ricochet]

Another quick fix is to plug the bore in front of the chamber with a patch or such, pour the chamber full of boolit metal, let it cool and tap it out with a rod from the muzzle.

[BerdanIII]

I don't think I'd use a tap as a case extractor; they're made to cut steel. I saw a silhouette shooter bugger up the chamber on his T/C Hornet barrel with one. He had a case head separation and while digging the tap out of his range box, he had the barrel pointed up and the case fell out unnoticed. He found the case on the ground after running the tap in and turning it without result (other than cutting some threads in his chamber).

[Ricochet]

Good reason to make a .218 Bee T/C barrel.

[BerdanIII]

Good reason to make a .218 Bee T/C barrel.

Point well taken.

[KCSO]

The 30-40 Krag case works better because the case head dimensions are larger than the 303. They actualy come closer to being a proper fit for the 303's oversize chamber. Sized and trimmed 30-40 brass if you neck size will last at least 10 loadings. If you neck size w/w brass for the 303 5-6 is just about all you can expect.