Primed too soon?

[tjndaltx]

I forgot to lube my cases before priming them? Can I still lube them with the Lee lubricant in a spray bottle and it not affect the primers? Thanks.

[briang]

Why are you lubing the cases? i only time I lube them is to size which you have apparently all ready done.

[tjndaltx]

Why are you lubing the cases? i only time I lube them is to size which you have apparently all ready done.

My cases were already de-primed. I inspected them and went ahead and primed them forgetting all about lube. My de-priming pin is not in my resizing die.

I usually lube, prime, resize, etc.

So will the lube hurt the primers?

[Papa Foxtrot]

What cartridge? I don't think you'd have a problem with a straight walled pistol round. Just a little light lube rolled on a pad should be fine. Just remember to remove the decapper - it's bad mojo to decap a live primer!

With a bottleneck, you'll need to remove the pin from the decapper, because it's also the expander that brings the neck back out to size.

My $.02

[BPCR Bill]

Try some old fashioned RCBS lubricant on a lube pad. Just lightly roll them and run 'em in the die (as long as your de-capping pin is removed). Do not spray them, you may get lube in the case to a degree you may contaminate primers. By the way, leave the expander ball on the stem. (if you are sizing with a 2 dies set).Only the de-capping pin should be removed.

Regards,
Bill

[tjndaltx]

Thanks, guys. Appreciate it.

[Lloyd Smale]

Id go with some hornady one shot. it drys fast and doesnt contaminate powder or primers. In all reality you should be fine though with about any lube if you tumble them right away after you seat your bullets. I wouldnt leave it on for a long period of time though.

[WildmanJack]

+1 on Lloyd's post. I prime all my .45-70'a before I resize them and have not had a problem using "One Shot" as a lube..
Jack

[Rockydog]

When using "One Shot" I use a block with finishing nails driven in it spaced about 1" apart in rows 1" apart. My block has 100 nails in staggered rows so cases don't end up hidden behind the case in the next row. I place the cases upside down on the nails and spray the block from all 4 sides doing all 100 in one pass. RD

[Slow Elk 45/70]

I guess things change with time, I lube the case , size/decap then prime , but I'm a dinosaur anyway. One Shot or lube pad will work , just be careful not to use to much lube and slop it into the primer pocket around the primer. Should not be a problem.[smilie=1:

[phil218b]

I guess I am getting old, but when I started reloading the info I got was to be careful with any oil near primers, to the extent of not touching the open end of a primer to keep oil on your fingers from contaminating the powder in the primer. I clean my cases and then lube,resize,trim and then tumble them again to remove the lube. Then I prime, charge and seat the bullet. I have been using primer trays to get the primers face up to load in the primer feeder so I don't touch them. I am anal about not having any lube in or on my case when I seat primers and put powder in and seat bullets. With that process I have had misfires you can count on one hand in 40 years and I believe they were from bad products. I do use progressive reloaders, but I have a 1050 set up with a Dillon trimmer and size, deprime, swage primer pockets, and trim my cases on it. Then I clean in a tumbler, and use a 650 to prime and load the cases, I keep all the lube on the 1050 and keep the 650 clean for the powder and primers. Just old and stuborn I guess but it works for me and has for a long time with excellent results. But what would you expect from an old fart that can remember 10 cent coffee and 18 cent gasoline from a "service station"?

[jonk]

I'd use the Lee stuff. It is water based and truly dries. The outside, you can do whatever. The inside I'd use a Q tip and put a drop of lube in each neck. Otherwise you should be fine.

It's hard to kill a primer. I've soaked them in oil and water as an experiment and many of them still went bang.

[cajun shooter]

I'm with you Slow Elk. When I was shown and read how to reload in the late 60's -70's You always lube, size and then prime. This is also after cleaning all cases and having them ready for reloading. If your cases needed any primer pocket or neck work it was also done before priming. If you need to trim that is done before priming. You should do all the steps before and only prime when ready to load.

[BillDan]

I'm with you Slow Elk. When I was shown and read how to reload in the late 60's -70's You always lube, size and then prime. This is also after cleaning all cases and having them ready for reloading. If your cases needed any primer pocket or neck work it was also done before priming. If you need to trim that is done before priming. You should do all the steps before and only prime when ready to load.
I learned the same way. a documented (in my load book) 87000+ rounds later, I still follow the same process. 2 misfires in all those years. Reminds me of a flight instructor. Had me check for "gear down" on approach in a 172 (a fixed gear aircraft). When I asked him why, he said "Learn the right way the first time and you'll form good habits that will last a lifetime".

[dromia]

I'd use Imperial sizing wax, don't need much, you put it on with your fingers so you can keep it on the outside and it wipes off fine with a paper towel.

[357maximum]

I'd use Imperial sizing wax, don't need much, you put it on with your fingers so you can keep it on the outside and it wipes off fine with a paper towel.

:drinks: X2 -That is how I would do it also under the conditions you have placed yourself in. My sizing wax is homemade (anhydrous lanolin with just enough bwax to stiffen it a tad). I can lube/sized several hundred cases per hour this way, but I generally use a mix of 90% alcohol/liquid lanolin in a pump bottle...BEFORE I prime.:Fire:

[dromia]

:drinks: My sizing wax is homemade (anhydrous lanolin with just enough bwax to stiffen it a tad). :Fire:

Now thats a good idea Michael need to mix up some of that, mind you that there Imperial Sizing Wax does last I bought a couple of tins at least half a dozen years ago and I'm just about half way through the first tin. Don't know how many cases I lube per year but I do know that I FL resize at least 2,000 .303" each winter.

Anyone tried Hornady's unique sizing wax, it is certainly cheap enough?

[hpdrifter]

Unique sizing wax is what I use. I works well, but have had reports that Imperial is much better. Ordering some soon.

I might add, if doing bottlenecks, rub it on "thin"; too much will give you a case of the case dents.

[dromia]

Unique sizing wax is what I use. I works well, but have had reports that Imperial is much better. Ordering some soon.

I might add, if doing bottlenecks, rub it on "thin"; too much will give you a case of the case dents.

That goes for all case sizing lubes, is Unique like the Lee stuff?
Can it be thinned with water?

[hpdrifter]

That goes for all case sizing lubes, is Unique like the Lee stuff?
Can it be thinned with water?

no, not as far as I know. It is a wax type(albeit thinner and greasier) substance and don't believe it is water soluble.

[357maximum]

Now thats a good idea Michael need to mix up some of that, mind you that there Imperial Sizing Wax does last I bought a couple of tins at least half a dozen years ago and I'm just about half way through the first tin. Don't know how many cases I lube per year but I do know that I FL resize at least 2,000 .303" each winter.

Anyone tried Hornady's unique sizing wax, it is certainly cheap enough?

I put my mix into altoid sours tins or rawleighs salve type tins, that way I can get my whole palm lubed...I then rub my hands together and then commence to lubing cases...when I think I need more I just touch my palm to it again..rub hands...and repeat until I am done with the batch. I normally reserve this method for large batches of case that I am crunching into another caliber. I spray on with homemade 1shot for most other ocassions.

To make it I just melt about 4oz beeswax and then add the lanolin until a small puddle cooled on a cool object feels "right". Better to err on the soft side than the hard side if unsure.

[kir_kenix]

I'm a big fan of imperial...a little bit goes a long way. I've made my own, and used other homemade remidies from friends, but with as long as a tin lasts I'm going to just keep using imperial. I would lube the outside and inside of ur necks with it and just wipe off the excess. It doesn't run, so theres pretty much no chance of it getting to your primer.

[TAWILDCATT]

read the directions on Lee it IS water soluable. I use lyman spray it is better than one shot.:coffee:[smilie=1: