Melting/casting temp..info please

[reloaders4you]

MORE NEWBEE QUESTIONS. I GOT MY RCBS CASTING TEMP GAUGE, SO NOW I CAN TELL HOW HOT THE LEAD IS WHEN CASTING/SMELTING. SO WHAT TEMP SHOULD I BE SMELTING DOWN MY WHEEL WEIGHTS. ALSO, WHAT TEMP SHOULD I HAVE THE RCBS PRO-MELT SET TO WHEN CASTING BOOLITS. THANKS IN ADVANCE :cbpour:

[243winxb]

Depends on the alloy mix. 850 should work for all.

[R.M.]

700º/750º would be a good temp. You want to be below the melting temp of zinc, should there be any. If there's no possibility of zinc, you can go up to say 800º. Once you get going, you'll find what you like.

[fredj338]

I run rght around 700deg unless I am casting HP, then I bump to 750. It works for all alloys & bullet styles so far.

[runfiverun]

i usually start about 750 and then go down just a bit with casting.
i do the opposite when smelting i melted a pot of alloy and held it at 700 and marked my dial
and set it there when things get started smelting. i then turn up the heat and flux, then turn the heat down to just keep the pot melted while ladeling.

[reloaders4you]

At what temp does tin start to melt away. I have read that if the temp is to hot tin will be melted away.

[mooman76]

There's no set temp that is correct in all situations. Different mould types, aluminum, steel, one cavity, two, six, small vs. large bullets. Alloy, how fast you cast and even outside temp of air can all play a factor. Try 700 and bump up the temp a little at a time until you get good bullets.

[snuffy]

At what temp does tin start to melt away. I have read that if the temp is to hot tin will be melted away.

Huh? If you're thinking tin somehow disappears from the alloy, um well it don't. Some still think that tin will float to the surface to be skimmed off when removing dross. All the elements of the alloy will oxidize at the surface, where the hot metals react with the oxygen in the atmosphere. Fluxing will recombine some of the oxides, and help float out the dirt. Once the metals and antimony are mixed, it's nearly impossible to separate them.


I GOT MY RCBS CASTING TEMP GAUGE, SO NOW I CAN TELL HOW HOT THE LEAD IS WHEN CASTING/SMELTING. SO WHAT TEMP SHOULD I BE SMELTING DOWN MY WHEEL WEIGHTS. ALSO, WHAT TEMP SHOULD I HAVE THE RCBS PRO-MELT SET TO WHEN CASTING BOOLITS. THANKS IN ADVANCE

Your thermometer will tell you how well the thermostat in your pro-melt works. If you take a lot of notes, OR have a great memory, you will be able to see what temp makes good boolits from each mold and alloy. There is no set temp that works best for everybody. Me, I just guess, then adjust as needed. Once I start getting well filled out boolits, and not frosted severely, I leave it alone.

Zinc melts at 787 degrees. If you're melting wheel weights, some may be zinc. You do NOT want them to melt, it'll ruin the alloy. Keep the smelter below 700 Deg., you'll be fine.

[reloaders4you]

Thanks for all the info.

[mooman76]

Tin actually melts at a lower temp than lead. I think what was meant was heating lead too hot the tin which is lighter tends to go to the top and if you keep scraping of the surface too much you scrape away the tin. That's where fluxing comes in and don't get caried away removing the surface.

[Slow Elk 45/70]

I melt at 750* and drop down a bit from there , unless I'm casting HP's, then a bit hotter helps. I don't let the melt get cooler than 725*, it helps if you have a good thermometer.

[leftiye]

He did say smelting? As soon as it melts, skim off all of the zinc still floating on top, and all of the other crud too. End of story.

Most people use their melt to maintain the heat of their molds, so melt temp varies with boolit weight, rate of casting, mold material, ambient temp and wind, how ya hold yer mouth, and other variables. With a mold heater I do most of my casting with a melt temp of just above 600 degrees.