3 moulds for 30-06 - which 3?

[FISH4BUGS]

I am going to eventually buy my ONLY rifle, a 30-06. Maybe a pre-64 Winchester. I have just bought a Lyman 311359 4 cavity for the light bullet. I want to get a medium weight (140-160gr) and a heavy round nose (?) 200+/- gr. bullet to have choices for all around shooting. What mid weight and heavy weight bullet works best for you guys? Which mould? Does the choice of rifle make a difference?
I am a handgun and sub machine gun guy. I don't own a rifle (yet). Your input and opinion and advice is most welcomed.
Donald

[onceabull]

F-4-B: with the "warning" that I have been dwelling in the"old farts" section for some time, here's mine( confined to currently available new) Lyman 311291 and 311284..if you want to shop used then 311466 can replace 311291,and if 311 284 is heavier than you like,go with 311299.. plenty good choices in other lines ,too,but cost goes up,and no guarantee of better shooting... fwiw,Onceabull

[stocker]

Don't overlook the RCBS180FP. It drops bullets about 190-193 grains depending on alloy and I've found it to be a good shooter from 30-30 to 30-06.

[krag35]

31141 for the mid weight, drops at 183 gr checked and lubed out of my mold and alloy. 311284 for the heavy, 221gr lubed and checked out of my mold and alloy. Could probably get by with just the 31141, but what fun would that be?
krag35

[David R]

311466 for your medium weight, shoots good out of every thing for me.

David

[sundog]

311291 is THE classic. It's a gotta have (as is the 31141). My favorite right now for military bolt matches is the RCBS 30-180-SP which drops my alloy at ~182ish. Heavy weights are 314299 and 311284. The 311299 is anemic on the nose. I've been playin' with the SAECO #301 (4-banger - just like my old 46 Willys CJ2A) and like the results so far, but the jury is still out on that one. sundog

[Frank46]

Lyman #311291, #31141, for the light weights, #311284 or #311299 for the heavy weights. Any of these should work. The #311291 mold I have casts a mite small on the nose .299 and thats too small. Or you could get a NEI mold for their 180 gr DD bullet. This has a ring machined in the mold that leaves a .302-.303 centering ring near the nose of the bullet. That helps centering the bullet in the bbl and rides on top of the lands. But before you run out and buy any molds, may I suggest slugging the barrel first so's you'll know what you are dealing with. Frank

[Bass Ackward]

F4B,

I would say that it really depends on your objectives and purpose for a recommendation. So much also depends on your groove size once you get it. Especially with older firearms. Without knowing that information, you may get a mold that simply doesn't work even though it is a "classic" design. Most bore rides are useless if they don't.

A good fitting bullet is the key. And a good fitting bullet is a good fitting bullet whether it is a factory or custom design. If you ever get one, you will cherrish it because it will have many accurate options for powder choices and velocity levels. When you have a bullet that provides say 20 accuracy loads to shoot, chances are, a few of those will really be eye openers. The poor fitting bullet .... "may" shoot just as well, but it will be finicky and you might end up with one load to choose from.

[MT Gianni]

For a shooter 311291, for a heavy weight hunter RCBS 180 fp, if th plinker you have doesn't suit your needs go with a Lee 113 fp soup-can. Gianni.

[Char-Gar]

Just three..OK here tis my three

1. 311291
2. 311284
3. RCBS 165 Sil


Now if I can add three more

4. 311467
5. RCBS 180 FN
6. 311466

A word about Pre-65 Model 70s. The 22" barrel Featherweight will probably shade the 24" standard weight in accuracy a mite. However, remove the mid-barrel screw on the 24" and it will shoot just fine. While not a lightweight, those 24" Model 70s have a solid, balanced feel to them that can't be beaten. They are easy to get on target and the stay there.