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outdoorfan
05-29-2009, 10:38 PM
I'm a newbie caster, and I pan lube. Been getting the hang of it, although I don't have it dialed in yet.

1. When pan lubing, I've been reheating the heat-treated bullets (50/50 soft and ww's). I've been getting them up to 170-180 degrees F before pouring the lube. I'm not sure at what temperature those bullets will start to anneal/get soft/lose their hardness from the HTment. I don't think 180 is enough, but I would like to know for sure.

2. I've been using Lar's C-red. Is this lube soft enough to stay useful for me in the fall/winter when the temps are anywhere from 40 down to below 0? I would think so, but once again, I'd like some confirmation from other's experiences.

I have been working up a load for my Savage .223 (Stevens barrel, actually). Pretty sure it has a 1-9 twist. Veral made me a mold. It is a spitzer style with a .1 meplat. Weight with the above-mentioned alloy after lubed and gc'ed is around 71 grains.

I now have 51 rounds thru it, including foulers and sighters. The barrel is brand new and has never had any jacketed bullets fired in it. So far I've only tried H4895 and Winchester SRP's. I learned real quick that at velocities over 2200 accuracy goes south real fast. All groups so far have been 3-shot groups, and only one per load increment at that. I know several groups at each charge gives more precise data, but I don't have the time.

So, this is what I've got so far:

My first batch I tried to load like jacketed. I went in one grain increments from 21-24 grains. Velocities were from 2492-2792. Seemed to be 100 fps per grain of powder. Accuracy was 4-5 inches, except for the 24-grain charge, which was quite a bit worse. This was at 50 yards.

I then did some reading on these forums to see what reduced charges would do. The next batch consisted of 16-20 grains in one-grain increments, and this time using .5 grain polyester batting/filling. Once again, shots were at 50 yards.

16 grains = .8 inches @ 2036 fps
17 grains = .7 inches @ 2167 fps
18 grains = 1.43 inches @ 2249 fps
19 grains = 1.37 inches @ 2374 fps
20 grains = 5.125 inches @ 2489 fps

*That 20-grain group was so bad because the 3'rd shot was way off. First two weren't too bad. I also thought it was interesting that the 20-grain charge with the filler was the same velocity as the 21-grain charge without filler.

With the third batch I decided to drop down even lower with the charges, and this time I knew it would be accurate enough to attempt shooting at 100 yards. I continued using the filler, but this time .75 grain.

13 grains = 1.062 inches @ 1659 fps
14 grains = .6 inches @ 1783 fps
15 grains = 1.7 inches @ 1953 fps (First two shots were tight)
16 grains = 1.03 inches @ 2062 fps
17 grains = 1.58 inches @ 2197 fps

I'm fairly pleased with the accuracy, but I wish I could get more velocity. As I mentioned previously, these bullets are HT'ed at probably around 20 bhn, although I haven't tested them.

My next step will be to shoot more groups in the 14-17 grain range, but this time going in .5 grain increments. This bullet is too long to seat it with the gc inside the neck. It extends down to the bottom of the shoulder. I don't do anything special with with the brass, as far as turning it or uniforming, etc. I'm not into that. Any ideas on how I could get more velocity while still retaining 1.5 moa (3-shot groups) accuracy? Harder, softer bullets? Different alloy?

One concern I have is that this barrel has to be rough as can be. I'd like to fire lap it. I haven't slugged it yet. What do ya think?

Some other tidbits:

The bullets that I did weigh (5-10 of them) were mostly within .1 grain of each other. Bullets were sized .22625 (or so) in a Lee sizer. I know they're supposed to be a nose-first push though, but the gc's (Gator) wouldn't crimp on right. So, I went base-first to get a good crimp. But going base-first meant that no lube gets transferred to the top of the gc in that little space before the first driving band. I don't know why they won't work nose-first.

I was originally intending for this to be a 300-yard coyote/prairie dog rig, but at these velocities it's looking more like 200 yards will be about it.

I probably have more questions, but that's all I can think of for now. I know this is kind of long, but I'd appreciate any direction that anyone can offer to me.

jdgabbard
05-29-2009, 11:59 PM
The temp your operating at isn't going to effect your results with hardness, as you're alloy should yield somewhere between 8 and 10 bhn.

As for the Carnuba Red, it should be fine for what your application is. I haven't used it, but from what I hear, its the bees nees.

outdoorfan
05-30-2009, 12:27 AM
[QUOTE=jdgabbard;579431]The temp your operating at isn't going to effect your results with hardness, as you're alloy should yield somewhere between 8 and 10 bhn.
QUOTE]

Please don't misunderstand. I heat-treated these at 500 degrees for 1 hour, then dumped them in 62 degree water. They should be close to 20 bhn.

Bob Krack
05-30-2009, 12:47 AM
The temp your operating at isn't going to effect your results with hardness, as you're alloy should yield somewhere between 8 and 10 bhn.

Please don't misunderstand. I heat-treated these at 500 degrees for 1 hour, then dumped them in 62 degree water. They should be close to 20 bhn.
I kinda think that 20 is a little closer than 8 to 10. Pure wheelweights (clip-on) start to degrade someplace between 450 and 500. I have seen pure ww heat treat to around 28-30 but cannot swear to the accuracy of that statement. I would think the ww/soft could test at 20 but I think 18 or so might be closer (but - what's 3 or 4 points between friends?)

According to Felix, (whom I respect very much) 300 degrees is the temperature above which hardness differences are affected. If I am wrong about the person or the temperature, I am certain I will be corrected.

Bob

outdoorfan
05-30-2009, 12:52 AM
According to Felix, (whom I respect very much) 300 degrees is the temperature above which hardness differences are affected.

Bob



That's what I wanted to know. Thank you.

Slow Elk 45/70
05-30-2009, 01:30 AM
Well Hullo Outdoorfan, I see you have a lot of questions , not 2 or 3. I think you are trying to start in the middle and reach GO a little to fast. IMHO.

New rifle, slug the barrel , make a chamber cast. Check the boolit fit in the throat.
Then decide IF you need to firelap it.

If your seating the boolit down to the bottom of the shoulder, you are likely going to have issues with accuracy. GC should stay in the neck of the shell on bottle neck rounds, IMHO.
You may strip the GC off and it might stay in the barrel , not a good situation, be careful.:(

There are good threads on this site for all of your issues, do a few searches, it might help.:-D

If you expect jacketed bullet velocity from cast boolits, you are in trouble. It won't happen.
You can try Linotype or even Monotype , it will get you a little more FPS. There are a few people here that say they get good accuracy and 24-2500 fps, not many. It takes a lot of experimentation and shooting with a particular gun, you will find that this all takes time , and patience. IMHO.[smilie=1:

Take a long breath , remember to have FUN and be Careful.:drinks:

outdoorfan
05-30-2009, 08:46 AM
The base of the bullet is below the neck because I need more freebore. So, I could throat it out a bit if I wanted to. So far it seems that the filler I've been using is doing alright in keeping things more consistent.

I've heard that these Savages have very rough barrels right from the factory. I can't imagine that shooting lead through it is smoothing it out any, so that's why I figure firelapping will be the ticket. But, I need to slug the barrel to feel any constrictions, etc.

I checked the throat diameter, and it would appear that these bullets are filling it pretty well. But a throat casting would confirm that. I may do that eventually.

Truth is, I did quite a bit of reading on these boards, but now that I want to fine tune things a little, it's nice to have some direct contact with the experts themselves.

I really can't complain with the accuracy I'm getting at 2000-2200, so maybe I'll just leave it at that since I can tell that's about all many people on this board get (velocity vs accuracy) anyway.

Well, if anyone else has any more thoughts to share, please chime in.

Bob Krack
05-30-2009, 09:17 AM
The base of the bullet is below the neck because I need more freebore.
I'm not sure why you need more freebore? Planning on using a jacketed bullet that makes a longer cartridge than the boolit loaded cartridge? The further the boolit has to "jump" before it engages the rifling, the faster it is going at engagement time - and the more damage to the boolit because the boolit will skid and "burn rubber" (lead, that is).

???

Bob

badgeredd
05-30-2009, 09:27 AM
From what I have read several places, it seems that the easiest way to smooth a barrel is to run some J-word through it with some ultra fine lapping agent. Then clean the barrel and runn a few cast boolits with a lapping agent through it. & clean it agin. Beartooth puts out a little book that goes into great detail on smoothing the bore up. Good reading too.

Edd

mroliver77
05-30-2009, 10:13 AM
I would get a couple hundred jacketed and have some fun blasting with it. Savage are known for softer barrels and this might be sufficient.
Personally I think you need a harder alloy. Straight WW or try some magnum shot with tin added. You are doing fine for the alloy you are using. I will fire lap a problem bore or constrictions out of a bore but tread very softly in that dept. I dont know your rifles twist but that is a pretty heavy boolit. If you have a fast twist it will limit your velocity/accuracy. Cast in a .22 will test what your made of.
Jay

largom
05-30-2009, 12:03 PM
First let me say that I am a big fan of bore lapping. Took me 15 yrs. to get up enough nerve to try it though. Today, any new gun I get with a factory barrel gets firelapped. I have also firelapped some custom barrels.
Savage barrels can be a little rough, but so are all of the rest. One thing to keep in mind is that firelapping will increase the length of the throat [freebore] a LITTLE bit which can be a good thing in some guns.
David Tubb makes a firelapping kit, sold by Midway, that I frequently use for rough barrels. For good barrels I use cast boolits and 1200 grit compound.
Since I own a borescope I can really see the results of lapping.
Larry

snuffy
05-30-2009, 01:19 PM
Here's what I use to firelap any rifle.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=486249

You simply roll whatever grit you want onto your own bullets. NOT shown on the pic on midway are two ground steel plates you use to impregnate the grit onto the bullets. I don't know how it would work on boolits, but I used it to save an abused savage 7 mag barrel. I have a savage .308 that refuses to shoot, it's next on my list to firelap.

Some say firelapping will permanently damage a barrel, I only use it as a last resort.

JIMinPHX
05-30-2009, 01:22 PM
From my experience, I've found that the .22's are hyper sensitive to a lot of things. The most important seemed to be having the boolit seated out far enough to touch the lands when the cartridge is chambered. The .22's seem more sensitive to minor boolit defects than the larger ones do for some reason. Also, I've found that GC'd boolits as soft as 12bnh can shoot pretty well, although 23bnh shot a little better. Hollow points seemed to improve accuracy a little, but not much. That's what I've seen so far. Hope it helps.

outdoorfan
05-30-2009, 11:32 PM
Wow, lot's of responses. I appreciate them!

I do have the boolit seated to the lands, and I need more freebore if I want to get that gas check up into the neck of the case. Barrel is 1-9 twist. I do have Beartooth's lapping kit, which includes 320 grit compound and those steel plates. I have firelapped two revolvers before, and both of them responded well to it.
I understand the basics of firelapping, or at least I think I do. I figure firelapping will lengthen the throat a bit, but probably not enough to get that gc into the neck.

I don't think I have the courage to run any jacketed bullets through it that are coated with any kind of abrasive compound. At least, that's my understanding of it. But I've heard the Tubb's kit works, so there must be something to that specific method. I however, would prefer to run 12 bhn boolits through it at really slow velocities. I can ask Veral for more advice on that if I need to.

I'm going to shoot this rifle a little more to fine tune a decent load before I move on to the next step. I think I'll try some HT'ed WW's to see if a harder alloy will change anything.

geargnasher
05-30-2009, 11:59 PM
Ever consider paper-patching? I've never done it but it would seem to be the ticket for high-velocity, small caliber, and medium boolit hardness.

Just a thought.

Gear

JIMinPHX
05-31-2009, 12:09 AM
Beagle has posted a genuine wealth of info on cast for the .223 in a 3 part series here -

http://www.castpics.net/memberarticles/Cast%20in%20the%20.223.htm

http://www.castpics.net/memberarticles/Cast%20in%20the%20.223,%20Part%20II.htm

http://www.castpics.net/memberarticles/Cast%20in%20the%20.223,%20Part%20III.htm

Slow Elk 45/70
05-31-2009, 01:44 AM
Outdoor Fan, I think you are on the track, as stated, do some testing, I'm sure you will find an answer you can live with.

303Guy
05-31-2009, 05:41 AM
For what it's worth, I have just managed to paper patch a 224 boolit. Actually, it's quite easy (the way I did it anyway). That might be an option to consider.

Here it is

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-011F.jpghttp://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-015F.jpg

I would say it is the wrong design for patching. For starters, that lube groove in the middle needs to go.

WHITETAIL
05-31-2009, 06:43 AM
outdoorfan, Welcome to the forum!:castmine:

outdoorfan
05-31-2009, 09:29 AM
Beagle has posted a genuine wealth of info on cast for the .223 in a 3 part series here -

http://www.castpics.net/memberarticles/Cast%20in%20the%20.223.htm

http://www.castpics.net/memberarticles/Cast%20in%20the%20.223,%20Part%20II.htm

http://www.castpics.net/memberarticles/Cast%20in%20the%20.223,%20Part%20III.htm


Yep, great articles, and I read those already. He's using acww's sized at .224 or .225, and all his bullets are hp'ed and no more than 57 or so grains. He also says he goes thru a real stringent sorting to make sure the weights are consistent, as well as being anal about brass prep. And he's probably also shooting 1-12 twist rifles that handle a little more velocity than my 1-9. Accuracy he's getting is great, and unfortunately, I'm not up to that challenge. But 1.5 MOA for three shots will work just fine for me.

outdoorfan
05-31-2009, 09:33 AM
Thanks for the welcome!

I considered paper patching when I was first considering which direction I wanted to go with casting my own lead. Figured it was too complicated. Maybe not. I would need to size the bullet way down. Smallest sizer I'm aware of is a .224, or are there any smaller?

windrider919
06-06-2009, 07:11 AM
I have a CZ 527 in .221 Fireball that has very good accuracy with J-bullets that I am going to try with Paper Patch. When I can get a push through slug mould made that is. I also need to do a chamber cast 1st to see what size my throat diameter actually is. I do not want to try to swage down a .225 to a .218 bullet because I believe it distorts it too much. I have noticed that in other cast bullets like 30 cal or 7MM that if sized down more than .004 and measured for square the bullet is sometimes cocked. And a distorted bullet will not be an accurate bullet.

My goal is a smooth sided (except for machine marks which has been covered before as necessary for PP using smokeless at higher velocity) trunciated cone bullet of .218 with 55gr weight. Weight will be adjustable by the movable nose form / ejector pin. PP wrapped to .225 or .226. Basically just like the big bore shooters dimensions scaled down.

By the way, 303Guy, last year we had a thread going about smooth sided PP vs grooved bullets and the consensus was that using smokeless the PP bullet needed a little roughness like knurling or grooves or even just drill finish to 'grip' the patch as it started down the bore. Not needed for BP PP shooting for some reason. So that cast grooved bullet is a good thing supposedly.