What do you guys think of this plan?

[technetium-99m]

I recenely acquired a Ruger SBH 44 mag and thanks to a lot of great members here I got all the stuff to reload from the classifieds.

I put my first rounds downrange today and I have never had a handgun this accurate before.

So to maximize the hunting/long range shooting stuff potential I have decided to scope this bad boy and get rid of the very sad trigger.

My plan was to get the Weigand (sp?) mount with a low power optic. For the trigger, can anyone point me in the right direction? I feel comfortable doing the work myself (I build my own 1911's), but a how to tutorial would be nice. I would like a 2-3 lb very crisp trigger.

Thanks all!

GT

[Down South]

I did an Ibok "IOWEGAN's Book of Knowledge" Trigger job on my GP-100 and it came out great. I don't remember if the Ibok covers the SBH or not.

[44man]

I recenely acquired a Ruger SBH 44 mag and thanks to a lot of great members here I got all the stuff to reload from the classifieds.

I put my first rounds downrange today and I have never had a handgun this accurate before.

So to maximize the hunting/long range shooting stuff potential I have decided to scope this bad boy and get rid of the very sad trigger.

My plan was to get the Weigand (sp?) mount with a low power optic. For the trigger, can anyone point me in the right direction? I feel comfortable doing the work myself (I build my own 1911's), but a how to tutorial would be nice. I would like a 2-3 lb very crisp trigger.

Thanks all!

GT
The Weigand base is great. Need to drill and tap though. I would not go over 2X with a scope unless all you do is bench shoot and if you will hunt, look at the Ultra Dot instead. Scopes are impossible to see through in early morning or evening.
Ruger triggers have a lot of creep so I remove about half the sear surface. Do not change any angles. Then I polish with a triangular ceramic stone and just break the sharp edge. Go slow and test often until it feels good.
Now you can unhook one side of the trigger spring or change the bends. You can also replace it. Do not mess with the hammer spring, your pull will be controlled by the trigger spring. If you go too light the trigger will kick your finger forward and drop the transfer bar too low. You can get misfires or a delayed fire. So when you test, pull very slow and lightly, if the trigger pushes your finger forward, tighten the trigger spring.
To see if you would be happy, just unhook one half of the spring from it's post.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI
Check out B-SQUARE scope mounts , no drill & tap mounts, on Redhawks at least.

[jeff423]

Check out this kit. I put one in my .41 SBH (about a 20 min job) and with lightest spring it is 1.5 lbs. Apart from my S&W 52 it is the best trigger I have. It is a "glass break" feel. 1.5 lbs is too light for hunting but is great for targets. I'll put a heavier spring in before I take it in the field.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=9845&title=RUGER~%20SA%20HALF-COCK%20HAMMER%20&%20TRIGGER%20KIT

Jeff

[August]

A set of Wolff springs and some judicious work with a stone, and then a polishing wheel, will give you what ever trigger you want. Brownells even sells jigs for the roooger gunz sear.

[Dale53]

Iowegan's Book of Knowledge is available to anyone with a set number of post's on:

http://www.rugerforum.net/index.php

NOTE: You must post a set number of times to gain entrance to the "Library" where the "stickies" are. The IBOK on the Ruger single actions are EXCELLENT. They are well worth the effort to gain access.

Dale53