PDA

View Full Version : Using a permanent marker to identify ingots?



ghh3rd
05-23-2009, 12:06 AM
I have read more than once on this fourm about using a permanent marker to write on ingots. I've been using an electric engraving pencil that vibrates a carbide tip rapidly, making it easy to write on my ingots, but I must admit that a marker would sure make it easier.

My concern is that the ink might react over time, and dissapear, leaving me guessing about my lead. I'm probably being over cautious, but I've had ink disspear when the glue from tape covered it (an important receipt that I taped to an instruction manual), and it faded away on one type of plastic after a couple of years.

Has anyone who has been using permanent marker on their ingots for a long time every had any of the writing fade away?

If all I hear are positive reports, I think I'll convert to using a permanent marker for a my future ingots.

Thanks,

Randy

Fire_stick
05-23-2009, 12:11 AM
I've only used a permanent marker for 4 months now (not a long time), and so far so good. But I would like to know too.

SciFiJim
05-23-2009, 01:15 AM
I just had to subscribe to this thread. I too am curious about this. I am new to casting but can see that I might have ingots years before being turned into boolits. Lead ingots are not a first in first out proposition, I will use the ones on the top of the pile.
Can any very experienced casters share with the class on this one? What's the best way to mark ingots for future identification?

bohokii
05-23-2009, 01:23 AM
how about using a hammer and screwdriver to imprint letters like a 7 segment


or even better harbor freight has letter punches for like $5 when on sale

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90124

Tom W.
05-23-2009, 05:15 AM
The letter punches are your best bet, followed by an engraver altho these can get hard to see if bumped or jostled around. A permanent marker may fade out or get dust or grease or some foreign object covered.( I don't suppose everyone stores their ingots in a dust free closet....)

WHITETAIL
05-23-2009, 06:31 AM
This is what I do.
If it is pure lead it gets a L stamped on it
with a steel stamp.
If it is a new smelt it gets a # stamped on it.
This way it never gets wiped off.
And I know later, say 2 years later it came from this
or that batch.:cbpour:

largom
05-23-2009, 06:52 AM
Been stamping mine with letters/numbers for years. Lead is stamped Pb, wheel weghts are stamped WW. Each smelting batch of 100 lbs. is also given a number. Example WW5
My fear is that permanent markers will fade or be rubbed off over the years. Stamps are really permanent and it does'nt take that much time to do it.
Larry

armyrat1970
05-23-2009, 07:05 AM
You can mark them with a permament marker and it will last. Unless you rub them together for some time and wear out the markings. Should be no problem.

RugerFan
05-23-2009, 07:34 AM
I've been using a permanent marker for 20+ years with no problems. Believe me when you have a big haul of lead to smelt down, a marker is very quick and easy to mark a large quantity of ingots.

dale2242
05-23-2009, 07:48 AM
I use the permanent markers, then place them in metal ammo cans. I have ingots ,that have been stored that way for 20+ years, that are still quite easily read.

725
05-23-2009, 07:55 AM
I letter stamp into the ingot:

PL - pure lead
50-50 for 50% lead / 50% lino
SG - stained glass window lead
WW - wheel weight
L - lino

Have even marked reconstituted alloy ingots with the rifle they were cast for. ( Just to remain consistant.)

archmaker
05-23-2009, 08:10 AM
I have used the permanant marker on some ingots from around 1988 and they spent a lot of their time on the ground outside, they looked tarnished but the letter where still visable.

They had spent the last few years outside.

So I will say this make sure to not use a "code" but write it out, make it legallable, it seems to stick around for a long time.

My only problem is when I do ingot I have to wait for them to cool down to mark them that is why I am thinking of going to a letter punch . . . impatiance.

Shuz
05-23-2009, 09:30 AM
I use the permanent markers, then place them in metal ammo cans. I have ingots ,that have been stored that way for 20+ years, that are still quite easily read.

I have been using permanent felt markers for over 30 years. Never had one disappear yet! As an added precaution to identity loss, I also put a slip of paper and some hardness samples in an Rx bottle inside each storage container(coffee can).

mtgrs737
05-23-2009, 09:36 AM
I use Permanent marker now but for years I just scratched them with a awl. Lead is easy to mark.

HeavyMetal
05-23-2009, 10:13 AM
Switched to the number punchs/ engraving tool yrs ago. I still have some ingots marked with a blue "permant" marker that have faded to the point I can't tell what the number is.

Stamping is fast and easy as is the engraver.

I use both pure lead for my 38 WC's, ww for 38 and 45 / 40 boolits and some special alloys I make up for rifle, magnum loads.

When I start any of these alloys a simple lot number is devised, example: WW09-5 this tells me it wheel weight metal smelted into ingots in May of 2009.

I plan, someday, to either make or buy one of those tools you can line up your number stamps on just to make this look a bit better when stamped.

So far this seems the best idea for long term storage, memory "jogging" ingot notes.

mooman76
05-23-2009, 10:22 AM
I have used both a "Sharpie" and "Majic Marker" and have them in my garage for about 8 years and they show nos sign of fading.

Echo
05-23-2009, 12:00 PM
I use a Sharpie, and mark my ingots thusly:

W WW's
L Lino
T Type (mono, foundry, stereo)(but usually I keep the type as is, for ID purposes)
Pb Plumbum
B Scrap boolits

Thus, an ingot marked W-L is 50/50 WW/Lino

pdawg_shooter
05-23-2009, 12:10 PM
I stamp mine with the BHN. Exact alloy doesn't matter much to me but the hardness does. All mine are a blend of pure, WW, & lino.

Crash_Corrigan
05-23-2009, 12:18 PM
I have a cold chisel of about 3/4" width. I used to mark the ingots but since I only cast with WCWW's and I do not alloy at all....I stopped.

Straight glue on flat strip WW's get cast into small Lee type ingot molds. I only use those for muzzle loaders and blackpowder buffalo rifles.

I really have not any need to mark my ingots with this system.

Shiloh
05-23-2009, 12:22 PM
I went the auto-punch route. WW for wheel weights, R for range lead, S for scrap lead.

Shiloh

Shiloh
05-23-2009, 12:22 PM
I went the auto-punch route. WW for wheel weights, R for range lead, S for scrap lead.

Shiloh

Pepe Ray
05-23-2009, 01:06 PM
No matter what kind of code that you use. be sure to "catalog" it. Keep a special notebook for describing your alloy. Over the years you'll appreciate it.
Also;
The 'Sharpies" etc, work fine IF you store your ingots protected. The environment in Texas may allow longevity of your marks but here in Maine they only last a few years when exposed to the weather.
Pepe Ray

RP
05-23-2009, 01:23 PM
I toss mine into a bucket label the bucket Ta Da iam done but I only have pure WW and range now iam starting to mix my alloy with tin and lino I think iam going to label by hardness.

MT Gianni
05-23-2009, 03:36 PM
I scratch L, WW and 2/6/92 with a screwdriver edge on mine. As an alternate, Corn muffins are range scrap, Lee gets Lino, RCBS & LY get WW. You can also store ingots in 5 gallon buckets and label the bucket.

ghh3rd
05-24-2009, 07:06 PM
The thing that I fear about markers is that every brand probably has a different chemical composition. While one type of marker may last for 20 years, perhaps another will fade away after two.

My cheap engraver pencil has a adjusting knob that makes anywhere from a low vibration to an obnoxiously loud noise. The quiet setting makes a pretty thin line, but it's slow and feels like the pencil tip drags along. The noisy setting makes a bold line and the tip glides through the lead - more like the feel of a regular pencil on paper.

I do have the letter/number stamps, in two sizes. I tried that once, but trying to stamp several letters/numbers on each of perhaps a batch of 100 ingots started to drive me crazy.

The engraver method that I use currently is to put a big C for clip on, S for stick on, along with the date such as 5 22 09. Each ingot takes about 5 seconds.

My reasoning for the date part of the identification is that I may screw up a batch with Zinc or whatever. I figure that if I ever have problems with bullets from a "batch" of ingots, I can switch to another batch, and perhaps use that batch for some fishing sinkers.

If I mix all of my clipon or stickon ingots there would be no way to pull out a bad batch.

After posting this thread, and reading the responses, I think I will use both the marker and the engraving pencil -- I will write on the ingots with the marker as soon as I'm done casting a batch, and engrave them when I "get around to it".

Thanks for the replies.

Randy

GLL
05-24-2009, 07:28 PM
I mark mine with a "Sharpie" for easy reading and stamp them with Letters/Numbers as well for long term ID !

Jerry

bishopgrandpa
05-25-2009, 09:46 AM
Round muffin for lead, straight bar for WW and corn cob for lino. Never fades or changes shape.

bigdog454
05-25-2009, 11:35 AM
I have some linotype that I marked with a marker in 1969, and it is still legible.

Ole
05-25-2009, 12:14 PM
I bought one of those Harbor freight punch kits a few months ago. I think it was $5.99. That seems like a small price to pay to keep things organized.

WW= Wheel Weights
PB= Pure lead
CS= Reclaimed chilled shot

montana_charlie
05-25-2009, 12:24 PM
I've had some types of marker ink fade away...but usually it was in situations where the mark was exposed to sunlight for a long period.
I have had no trouble with the type of ink used in markers intended for labeling food stored in a freezer...but, even with items marked with that stuff, I keep them out of the sun.
CM

azrednek
05-25-2009, 01:26 PM
I made the error many years ago not marking ingots. I just kept my 50/50 tin/lead bars separate. Being single at the time and having a lady trying to impress me with her tidy house cleaning, mixed them up by putting all my ingots neatly stacked into one container.

geargnasher
05-25-2009, 01:27 PM
I went the auto-punch route. WW for wheel weights, R for range lead, S for scrap lead.

Shiloh

That's exactly what I do, with a stamp set I bought from harbor freight years ago. I add "B" for smelted battery terminals when I have them. Seems a black permanent marker would be ok for years but I think stamping them is neat and better.

Gear

jdgabbard
05-25-2009, 02:33 PM
Use a stamp set. Its the only way to go.

Quickdraw4u
04-24-2016, 08:23 PM
I bought a 3/8 inch stamping set from Harbor Freight tools on sale with a coupon for $23. I cast my smelted ingots in corn shaped muffin pans. After they cool they are then stamped with WW, PB or if drained out of the pot with PB 1:20 or PB/SN etc. System works great for me and never rubs or wears off.

country gent
04-24-2016, 10:01 PM
I usea 3/8" or 1/2" letter number set and a 2 -3 lb hammer. Heavy duct tape holds the "ledgend" I want in order and alighbed. set on hard clean surface one good blow with the hammer and its IDed. I stamp what the alloy is ( abreviated ) and asighn a pot number to it for what batch or pot it came from. In this way I can blend from pots smelt or mix number 1,2,3,4,5 ingots together to make for an even larger batch of base alloy. I perfer the punches over markers paint pens or other means.

Lead Fred
04-24-2016, 10:03 PM
I use Sharpies, I have WW that are 5-6 years old now

lightman
04-24-2016, 10:42 PM
I never used to mark mine, just stored them in 5 gallon buckets that were marked. After several years the buckets cracked open and a few of my ingots got mixed up. Not a big deal as I just put those in the next batch ow wheelweights. I have since switched over to using milk crates and stamping the ingot. I made a clamp to hold the stamps from a ground rod clamp and a bolt.


http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/PTheodo/IMG_0222.jpg (http://s788.photobucket.com/user/PTheodo/media/IMG_0222.jpg.html)

Yeah, when you do a 400# batch it takes a while to mark them all!

Frank46
04-25-2016, 12:06 AM
Get a cheap set of number and letter stamps and a small ball pein hammer. Then just stamp what alloy or any other info. When I first started I used the mouth of an '06 case hit with a hammer to tell me what was either lead,tin or #2 alloy. Frank

bangerjim
04-25-2016, 01:21 PM
Excuse me while I cough up the thick layer of dust on this OLD thread!!!!!!!! OMG!

Stamps do not take much extra time at all, especially when you use a holder like I use and as shown in the photo above. I can get 4 stamps in mine. And stamping lasts FOREVER!!!!!!! Unlike a whimpy magic marker that fades over time. I only use a marker to scrawl the weight of "prime" alloys on the ingots. And that DOES fade over time.

Open up that wallet and spend a few $$ for some of those cheap HF stamps. I have a set of every size they make, even 1/2". They are not that expensive and will last a lifetime just stamping lead. Not so much for Fe and steel!

banger

Toymaker
04-27-2016, 09:19 AM
Interesting results. My ingots stored on the floor in the shed will begin to fade in a year. Stored in ammo cans in the shed have stayed crisp and clear for some time now. The few stored inside have stayed crisp and clear stored on the shop floor or in ammo cans. Pure lead keeps the marks longest; 30:1 next and 20:1 last. Had a few wheel weight ingots that acted like they didn't want to be written on and they faded fast. Hot, cold and moisture seem to be the issues.
Had the markings come off some 20:1 ingots a week ago, wiped right off on my hands when I picked them up. Went inside while the pot was heating up and ordered a Harbor Freight stamp kit.