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RugerFan
03-05-2006, 11:22 PM
I was reading a book I have (Cast Bullets and Silhouettes by Carlton Shy, Jr.) and came across an interesting tip entitled “Making a Difficult Mould Work”. I hadn’t heard of this method before, so I thought I’d pass it along:

“Every once in a while you get a mould that regardless of what you do will not produce decent bullets. This is the mould where the base won’t fill out, or the nose is goofed up, or some other minor trouble occurs all the time. So you have tried everything – recleaning, all degrees of heat for your casting metal, lightly smoked the mould blocks. When all else failed, get the molds warm –not hot, just warm. Of course they should be clean and dry. Take a cotton tipped swab and using touch-up blue, like in bluing a gun, and blue the interior of the moulds. Many a mould has been saved by this trick. Don’t ask why it works, nobody seems to have a reasonable answer, but it does work over 90% of the time.”

swheeler
03-06-2006, 12:20 AM
yes it is mentioned in Lyman cast bullet manual too

Springfield
03-06-2006, 02:49 PM
I assume this only works on steel moulds.

RugerFan
03-06-2006, 06:02 PM
I assume this only works on steel moulds.

You are probably right. I don't believe bluing will adhere to aluminum or brass.

waksupi
03-06-2006, 08:48 PM
You are probably right. I don't believe bluing will adhere to aluminum or brass.

I've used Oyxblue on both brass, and aluminum for darkening them. It will work. Any metal that will oxidize, will blue, not necessarily in an expected color.

lovedogs
03-06-2006, 10:57 PM
Interesting to consider. Could it be that the oxidizing effect of the "blue" serves the same purpose as smoking or drop out sprays only in a more even and effective manner? Makes sense to me. I've noticed that one of my Saeco moulds is heat treated or something that gives its cavities an almost blued appearance and it, indeed, works better than others I've used.