Ruger 10/22 FTE and FFF

[Lee]

Picked up a used older Ruger 10/22. Good shape, looked clean. Patch down the barrel, and ran some various brand ammo thru it.
Now out of 50-60 rounds, I have no failure to extract, but have had a couple failure to eject, and a couple of failure to feed.
I will strip it down and install the extended mag release and a Volquartsen auto bolt release, as well as the bolt buffer.

What I would like is opinions on anything else I should inspect/clean/replace while doing this?? Or anything I mentioned above that I "shouldn't" replace?
Don't know a lot about these rifles, but I have 2 and they both shoot beautiful. (The newer one does not have these issues)........................

[Tn_River_Ratt]

When you pull it down to clean, check the recoil spring and make sure the extractor moves freely. As for the bolt buffer, great idea. Save your $ on the extended mag release and just drill and tap it and install a small stainless socket head bolt. The factory bolt release can be modified with a small file to work. Do a google search or go to the ruger forum that Iowegan runs and make 10 posts and then you have access to several files that show you how to make modifications to just about any Ruger firearm including the 10/22.

Hope this helps
Ratt

[docone31]

First off, Numerich Arms has a 24" .920 barrel that is Bentz chambered. My wife at 100yds can put 10rds on the weld of the rebar that holds the target at the range.
Second, Chamfer the bolt!!!!! It makes all the difference in the world.
Third HeadSpace!!!! Optimum is .042, I run mine at .044.
Fourth, with the auto bolt release, sand both sides a little. It is a little tight in the action.
Fifth, pin the firing pin. That eliminates most of the FTFs.
Sixth, replace the extractor. A simple job and makes all the difference in the world. Especially with marginal ammo.
If you get the Bentz chamber barrel, smear a little valve lapping compound on the boolitt. It opens up the end of the chamber just a little so WallyWorld ammo will work fairly easily. The Bentz chamber is loose for a target chamber, but too tight for Stingers, and regular bulk ammo.
I use the factory stock, with a 1" recoil pad. The recoil pad turns it from a toy to a good feeling rifle. Forget about the charger expension, it is just another thing to change.
The hammer, and trigger kit is a great addition. Makes a big difference. I also pin the reciever to the stock rather than bedding with a block. I do bed the barrel, but the pinning really holds it down. I substituted the recoil pin, for a brass one. With the chamfering of the bolt, it really helps.
Pinning is easy. Remove all the goodies to a bare reciever, mark the centers, and drill the stock. I also bed the reciever, with Crazy Glue. This hardens up the inletting. Coupled with pinning, it firms it up like no tomorrow.
I also use only the factory mags. I like trouble free loading.
I cut my front band so it just is level with the stock top line. I drilled out and put two machine screws on each side. I also added a nose cap to mount a bipod.
I made for my wife a very accurate, simple, rifle to develop basic firing skills with.
Another note on the 10/22, I chambered the muzzle end for 22mag, and cut a dove tail for the barrel block. I turned the muzzle to fit the reciever. I moved the trigger group back to fit the mag clip. The trigger group extends beyond the reciever when in mag mode. Another simple fix.
A good resource for the 10/22
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/
In the works, I am rebuilding a factory stock, with a pistol grip. I do not know if I like it that much, but it can be done. Bondo makes a great wood filler, and blender.
Good luck with a good basic building block rifle.

[Firebricker]

Docone, Great info I was abought to trade off my 10/22 because it stove pipes abought every four shots. The link you provided is excellent info as well. I stripped the action down today and chamfered the bolt. The extractor is next on the list. How important is pinning the firing pin? I was going to put it back together and try it out then go back and pin it if I need to but wanted to ask here what it does and if I should go ahead and do it while I'm at it?
Thanks FB

[docone31]

I ended up pinning my firing pin. I tried it without after doing the modifications. It was ok, so being as bolts are not that expensive, I gave it a go.
I did not notice any side effects, but, I got no FTF with pinning. I had peened down the original factory crimp and that helped, but, pinning does the trick.
Also on headspaceing, I did that, but left it a little loose. .001 more than they reccomend.
Factory had .046, I brought it to .043. That really helped!
I also opened up my Bentz chamber with grit on the bullet. I had to manually close the action for the first 10 or so shots, but after that, it got a little loose. I fired about 20 all together, then fired plain rounds to scour the grit out.
With a bipod, and Uber trigger, my wife can put 10rds on the cross weld of the rebar target support at 100yds consistantly.
A substantial improvement over stock.
It is an heavy rifle, but well worth it.

[Firebricker]

Docone, Thanks for the quick response ! I think I'll go ahead and pin it. I don't have a vice for my old drill press so I'll have the local gunsmith drill it just to be sure its right. I was just going to change the angle on the extractor hook but when I looked close at it you can see wear at the tip of the hook. Probably be better to order a new one. I'll post results when it's back together. FB

[docone31]

A new extractor changed everything for me!!
Simple fix.
Get the titanium one.
Pinning is a simple fix.
Make sure you check the head space. It should be at match .040, I like .043. Gives room for crud.
A camfered, head spaced, trigger jobed Ruger is something else! Even with a stock barrel, it is great.

[Firebricker]

The head space was the one thing that looked good. Got lucky mine shows just shy of .043 which is perfect like you I prefer a little room for the crud. The bolt was rough to say the least not to mention the raceway in the reciever. A lot of polishing happened today. I did my chamfer with files I was expecting it to be hard to file but it wasn't. I started with a basterd cut then used two finer files then swiched to flat diamond files for knife sharping and finished with 1500 paper. Polished the whole bolt and the top of the bolt handle were there were drag marks. This rifle is about nine years old but hardly shot it till recently. My mine goal was to make reliable (like it should have been out of box) but if this helps accuracy thats a nice bonus. was your titanium extractor a volquartizen brand?

[Firebricker]

I got my power custom extracter today and put it in. Big improvement only a couple of stove pipes with cheap bulk pack ammo and none with CCI stingers. Wlile it was apart from chamfering the bolt I polished everthing in the trigger group. I don't have a trigger pull scale but I would guess it at abought four lbs which is a huge improvement from what it was. And that was without removing metal just a polish. This one just went from tradin stock to a keeper ! FB

[docone31]

Hehehe.
Wait untill you get creative!
I got the 24" barrel from Numerich arms. I chambered the other end for .22mg! I made a bolt adapter. It is a scoped rifle so front sights are not needed.
Making the trigger group move out is no biggee. I just drilled an hole where the outward hole would go. I relieved the rear of the reciever to allow for rearward movement.
If you get a .22 mag clip, then make it fit, you get the final tolerances. Forward for .22lr, rearward for .22mag. Same bolt, same trigger group.
I do fire .22lr most times.
Lots can be done to these fine rifles. Mine uses the original stock, with the front guard cut down and secured. It is the rest for my bipod. The Ruger Butt pad makes the difference between it fitting like a toy and a rifle. Other than that, and other mods, it is basically stock.
I do like that barrel though. 18" is good, so is 24". longer is better I think.
Good luck.

[Firebricker]

Docone, Chambering the the other end for 22 mag is flat out cool in my book ! I would have never thought of that. I picked up a Winchester model 141 real cheap and I think I'm gonna have it cut out for 22 mag. The gunsmith I go to has one and he said it was a good shooter and that model has locking lugs so its plenty strong. I'm probably done with the 10/22 unless you can still get those take down kits cabelos used to have. BTW thanks for the tips and the link you posted both have been very helpful. FB