Lyman shipped my mould back with rust in it!

[superior]

I received my 2660299 in the mail yesterday after Lyman openned up the nose and after cleaning it up to get the oil out of it, I noticed the cavities were rust colored. I cast up about 20 boolits in AC WW and about 5 soft-nose boolits. After casting, I still saw rust color inside the cavities. I coated the entire mould with silicone and put it away. Is this ok...to have rust color in the mould? If not, how do I get it out? The boolits dropped flawlessly and looked great except the sprue-plate holes kept clogging with lead after dropping the boolits ( I had to poke them out with a toothpick after every pour). Will lubing the top of the sprue-plate help with that?:?:

[oneokie]

the sprue-plate holes kept clogging with lead after dropping the boolits ( I had to poke them out with a toothpick after every pour). Will lubing the top of the sprue-plate help with that?:?:


Bullshop Sprue Plate Lube works wonders.

[RayinNH]

The rust color won't hurt, just don't let it become rusty or pitting will take place. I would try to remove it before putting it away though. Use a pencil eraser and rub it off then oil before putting it away until the next session...Ray

[405]

Very common to get that. Seems to really show up after a casting session when using a flux like Marvelux. Only takes about five minutes to form. Just watch for pitting as has been mentioned.... otherwise no problem. Actually, that very thin oxidized coating may even help bullet release.

Sprues can be sticky if the sprue cutter (cone face) has tool marks or if the cutter isn't razor sharp or if there is a little beveling on bottom side of hole or if the plate is the least bit out of alignment with the block face, etc. And yes as has also been mentioned, Bullplate will help the release. I keep a Q-tip with a little B plate on it for lubing the plate screw and sprue cutter cone.... even during casting. It doesn't take much! At temperature it will creep.

[superior]

Thanks guys!