Lube in bullet base bevel

[cheese1566]

I am using a Lee six cavity 45 truncated mold profile that has a slight bevel in the base of the bullet.

When I lube using my Lyman 450, I am finding a small amount of lube being left in the beveled base. I am using Lar's Red Carnuba Lube. I have experimented with handle pressure and adjusting the depth amounts. Not a lot is being left on the bottom, just in the bevel. I am storing them in plastic quart size jars.

As I remove the lubed\sized bullet, I am twisting the bottom on a piece of cloth to clean it off a bit. Which slows down the process and hurts the fingers after 200-300 repititions.

Am I wasting my time by cleaning it off?
Will it contaminate the powder (Win 231) after being loaded if left on?

I am kind of anal at things anyway...:razz:

[JohnH]

These days I just ignore it, but you can put a gas check into the sizing die, that will take up the exposed area of the bevel base, but it sometimes sticks to the boolit and becomes a problem in it's own way.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I have the same situation with a 38 dewc and it is a necessary step to remove that lube so that it does not contaminate the powder or have any flakes/kernels of powder sticking to it up front in the case or neck. Its an extra step and a PITA, but I have found that wetting a small towel or rag in a small area with some solvent like varsol, paint thinner, mineral spirits, or whatever else you find that works for you....will remove the lube easier. I am not using lars which I think may be a bit harder because of the Carnuba wax, but the solvent works on the NRA 50/50 stuff and some other concoctions of lube. Its worth a try, for sore fingers are not fun and only 300 casts are a lot less than you might want to do. I store my finished bullets in wooden boxes, in rows with a cardboard spacer in between the layers to prevent bullets from getting their edges into each other's lube rings or otherwise sticking where they shouldn't be or damaging each other. LLS

[mtgrs737]

I had the same problem a while back with boolits bevel bases picking up lube on my Lyman 450 sizer. Another member here suggested that I cut some discs out of a styrofoam meat tray like the ones that come on the bottom of meat from the grocery store to fit in the size die. When sizing a boolit the foam seals off the bevel and keeps it clean. The discs are easy to make and last quite a few boolits before they take a set and need to be replaced. You can make them by using a empty cartridge as a punch and pick out the disc with a tootpick. Good luck!

[MT Gianni]

That and accuracy issues are why many of use prefer flat base bullets.

[Recluse]

That and accuracy issues are why many of use prefer flat base bullets.

Agree about the "no/less lube on the base" part, but one of my most absolute consistently accurate boolits is a bevel-base .452 200SWC. It IS a pain to wipe it's little behind after every stroke of the lubesizer, but I've gotten so used to it now I don't even think about it.

The styrofoam base tricks works quite well and is easy, quick and cheap (my three favorite attributes) to do.

:coffee:

[243winxb]

If the plug inside the die is machined, end of problem.http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=43911
Contact Buckshot over at castboolits. He's one of the moderators and does a lot of machine work of this sort. If he can't help, he'll head you towards someone who will. I find the 45acp BB to be very accurate. I use a towel to wipe the base. The Lyman sizing dies have different holes in them now. But i would think this makes no difference.

[243winxb]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?u=67 Contact Buckshot here.

[Shiloh]

I went the gascheck in the die route for .38/.357 wadcutters.

Shiloh

[cheese1566]

I took the advice and PM'd buckshot. I will also try the styrofoam idea.

I was also wondering if I could mold the sizer punch pin with epoxy/JB weld just like I did for custom profile on my top punches.

Of course, I would need a mold release agent for the inner walls of the sizing die and stay clear of the holes.

Just a thought.

[mike in co]

for the record, i have shot 255,265, 280 and 290+ cast bullets in both my super redhawk and my marlin micro groove 20" carbine. the 255, 265 and 290+ are all gc design. i have done development work with and without the gas check. in every case the boolit without the gc out shot the gc'd boolit.

now back to the question....i lube the gas check shank and DO NOT REMOVE any lube.



thanks
mike