H&G Powder Measure

[joeb33050]

I'm in the middle of a test of powder measures, RCBS Comp. and Chargemaster 1500, Lyman 55, Redding BR30 and H&G done so far.
The H&G requires the operator to dispense powder into a tube, then move the tube out of the measure and to the funnel-into the case.
This is a bother, adds time and the chance of dropping the powder to the reloading process.
The H&G is not noticably more accurate than others, and costs ~$170 new at Buffalo Arms.
I don't get it. Why would anybody want the F&G? Am I missing something?
Thanks;
joe b.

[StarMetal]

Joe,

Sounds like the Belding & Mull. Why would anyone want it? Well I'll tell you why. I've had my Belding & Mull for way over 30 years. There's a reason for that. One is that it's the most accurate power measure I've ever seen. It even cuts course rifle powder pretty close to zero. As I was telling Buckshot one day with the fine powders it cuts zero's exactly. If you had the powder that I've spilled over those years you wouldn't be able to fill a sewing thimble. Yeah, it's alittle slower..but is there some kind of powder measure speed competition that I'm missing?

Joe

[Herb in Pa]

The extra $'s bring repeatability and ease of setting powder charges. I have a Harrell Precision measure that is based on the "culver style" insert. The insert is all brass construction with a micrometer adjustment. There are roller bearings on both sides of the powder measure body......you would swear that something is broken when you throw the handle...........no drag at all. The rest of the measure is constructed of both stainless steel and aluminum.

All you have to do is keep a record of the charge setting with each powder and you will get very close to the nearest 1/10 of a grain next time you adjust for the powder charge. I also have a Pact electronic measure and scale and it's a lot slower than using the Harrell.

[StarMetal]

Herb,

The Belding & Mull has a brass tube you charge with powder. It has number indexing on it and if you record the setting it too will throw the charge to the EXACT weight, as long as the moisture content of the powder stayed the same. Reloader may have noticed that a powder measure that hasn't changed in setting, but went the same can of powder is measured and weighed on different days, that the weight may be different...and wonder why. Moisture content is the reason...that is if the measure is dead accurate along with the scale.

Joe

[carpetman]

Starmetal---The number indexing on Belding &Mull is on those with the micrometer charge tube, others dont have it. Agreed they are accurate and I've not found any type powder it doesnt meter accurately.

[joeb33050]

I meant B&M.
joe b.

[StarMetal]

Carpetman,

Ray is probably right about the index marks. Personally I haven't seen a B&M that didn't have them on the drop tube, except for the extra one I made for mine.

Ray..you could scribe marks on your wheel, making one bigger for the zero position, then scribe on line for it to index up with on the tube. That ways you could wind the wheel all the ways down and count the turns and index marks to the setting you have it locked at for a particular powder and load.

For those of you not familar with these, the drop tube has a thread shaft protruding out the bottom of the brass tube and a knurled indexed wheel is on it. There is a thumbscrew to lock the shaft when you set it. The wheel has numbers on it from 0 to 20 marked at ever 5 increments and the threaded shaft has a flat on it and marked from 1 on up. Take for example my 9.0 gr load of Unique for my 45LC. Usually on my tube the shaft will read say about 8, which will be the last number visible, and the wheel will be on some index number, lets say 7. So I write that down. Then the next time I use that load and powder I wind the wheel till I just pass the 8 on the shaft and then go to seven on the wheel. Very much like using a micrometer.

Joe

[carpetman]

Starmetal---No Ray is not PROBABLY correct. The non micrometer tube doesn't have threads and thus the method you described would not work. It slides only--no threads---and has locking device. Seeing as how you haven't seen one,I'd guess you have not seen one with aluminum hopper and possibly one with plastic hopper? The plastic is newer and the aluminum is older.

[StarMetal]

Ray,

Mine is the plastic hopper, I bought it, oh, early 1970's. I've seen pictures of the metal tube ones, I thought brass and aluminum both?

Maybe when I get somemore brass I could make you a new drop tube that works like mine??

Joe

[carpetman]

Starmetal---I made the erroneous assumption that your B&M powder measure had the brass hopper. Bought mine 1967 and it is brass. My charge tube is the micrometer type. I had a magnum tube that was not micrometer. I gave it to my nephew as 30-06 is the biggest I load for and the standard size works for that(nephew has a 45-70). I also gave my nephew an aluminum hopper measure. Come to think of it,I gave him an RCBS Rockchucker press,Redding scales,dies and you name it and he still has yet to reload the first bullet.

[StarMetal]

Ray,

My measure, as I stated, has a transparent slightly shaded color plastic hopper and the slide you work with the lever to drop the powder WAS aluminum. After many years of use, plus the fact that I load and shoot alot, the aluminum slide became galled. I had the local machine shop in town cut me a new slide block from brass which I further machined to the original slide specs. I cut the cavity in it and inletted the little glass window, drilled and tapped all the holes. It's alot better then the original aluminum one. What is your slide made of?

Joe

[carpetman]

Starmetal---my slide is aluminum---the brass sounds great.

[StarMetal]

Ray,

With that last statement you made I do believe you know what I meant about the aluminum slide. By the way being I shoot alot of pistol cartridges I made my second droptube with a much smaller bore for the smaller charges.

Joe

[KCSO]

Having a Lathe and a lot of scrap brass i made a set of charge tubes for my favorite loads. I just grab a tube and go to it. If I had to get rid of powder measures my B and M would be the LAST to go. I have Lee dippers, a Quinetics, a Herters, a Lyman and Ideal an RCBS and the B and M.