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Potsy
05-03-2009, 08:14 PM
I bought a sporterized '98 Krag last summer. I fooled with it just enough to figure out that it would put 3 165 Hot Cores or 3 220 grain RN Gamekings in about an inch at 50 yards (undoubtedly, it will shoot better than I can).

I cleaned on the barrel some when I first got it, but I bought a can of wipe out a couple of weeks ago and now, instead of a dark rough pipe, I have a bright rough pipe.

First of all, I'm missing a couple of pieces to the sight (the screw that holds the elevation slide in place, and the spring, at least I assume it's a spring, that holds the ladder upright when raised; I apologize for not knowing the technical terms).
It's also missing what I believe is the magazine cutoff lever.

I've looked on Numrich and Brownells and can't find a thing for a Krag.
Any Suggestions?

I'm also kicking around a cast load for it. As good as it shoots J-bullets, the bore is still pretty rough, so I wonder how well it will do with cast. Any ideas? What's a good mold? I'm thinking something long, heavy and gas checked at 1800-2000 fps.
My J-bullet success was with IMR-4831, does it work as well with cast bullets?

Thanks!!
Potsy

scb
05-03-2009, 08:32 PM
I've had good luck with these folks for Krag parts.
http://www.ssporters.com/Parts%20Listing%20Page.htm
BTW Brophy's book "The Krag Rifle" shows 16 different rear sights. You'll probably have to do some more research.
Try these folks;
http://www.kragcollectorsassociation.org/

RayinNH
05-03-2009, 08:38 PM
Potsy, try this place for parts, they have some original and some reproduction parts:http://www.ssfirearms.com/ ,You'll need to download catalog.

Lyman #311284 (designed for the Krag) approximately 210 grain boolit with 16Grs. of 2400 powder is a great load...Ray

Shiloh
05-03-2009, 08:43 PM
I have purchased Krag parts from both these firms.

http://www.ssfirearms.com/
http://dechristophermilitaria.com/

Shiloh

nicholst55
05-03-2009, 10:33 PM
If I'm not hallucinating, at least some of the cutoff parts are interchangeable between a Krag and 1903 Springfield. Bear in mind that I'm 7,931 miles away from my rifles (but who's counting). Springfield parts are more readily available and significantly less expensive when found.

Bob S
05-03-2009, 11:48 PM
If I'm not hallucinating, at least some of the cutoff parts are interchangeable between a Krag and 1903 Springfield.

You're hallucinating. :wink: They're not even close.

There are three major and several minor variants of the Krag cut-off. For the 1898 rifle and carbine, the cutoff was shortened and the position is reversed - magazine is "ON" when the cutoff lever is "up". It was the opposite in the M1892 and 1896 rifles, and the M1892 cutoff had a flat spring instead of the coil spring and plunger of the later ones.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

Barstooler
05-06-2009, 12:05 AM
Get some

Tubb Final Finish Bore Lapping System 308 Caliber and 7.62mm
Product #: 513887 from MidwayUSA

Essentially a system of abbrasive bullets you can load to try and smooth out your bore.

If you have slugged your Krag and it is close to .310 (as some of them are) than 308, you might want to go with Tubb TFinal Finish Bore Lapping System 303 Caliber Product #: 491049 which is a .311 caliber...... but I would defenitely use reduced loads to poke a .311 down a .310 bore.

Barstooler

leadman
05-06-2009, 01:15 AM
311294 works good in the Krag. So far I have had better results with small doses of the faster powders like Unique.
Another advantage of the faster powders is the recoil is minimal. You want to stay away from really reduced loads of slow powders like 4831.

Throwback
05-06-2009, 05:57 PM
I cleaned on the barrel some when I first got it, but I bought a can of wipe out a couple of weeks ago and now, instead of a dark rough pipe, I have a bright rough pipe.

I have been there before with Krags and in a worst-case-situation with a much abused pre-64 model 70. The good news was that I could get light loads with bullets in the 178-grain range to shoot fairly well at short range. The bad news was that was all that really worked. Jacketed bullets shot OK. Bore finishing will not help with a pitted bore.

I have used the 4831s for max loads with heavy lead bullets but I think you will find the 4350s will be a little better for such purpposes.

I agree with the above - try Unique loads and 2400 to start. If they don't work you may need a new barrel. '03 barrels - still available - are a common solution.

Kragman71
05-06-2009, 07:05 PM
Numrich Arms does list parts for the rear sight of the Springfield Krag.The numbers are between 39 and 43.
Frank

Potsy
05-06-2009, 07:16 PM
If I get a mold I'll probably try Unique & 2400.
When I bought the rifle, IMR-4831 was the closest thing to 4350 I had.
45 was max in the Sierra manual and I backed up a bit. Turned out it worked. Didn't write the speed down, but it seems like it chrony'ed around 1980 fps.
Since then I've picked up H-4350 (mostly for my 7mauser)and 3031 (for my .45-70).
For some reason, it seems like 3031 might be a good choice for cast boolits.

cobbmtmac
05-06-2009, 08:34 PM
Potsy, :coffee:

I am sure that I read that the Lyman, 311284 was originally designed for the 30-40 Krag. It is a great 30 Cal Mould, lubed and gas checked, mine weighs 221.5grs. Anyway, I load for 2 krags, mine and my sons. Because of bore differences I size at .310 and .311. I use 15.5grs. of 2400. OAL for us, 3.020 works well. Best 5 shot groups at 50 yds, 1 group at just under a half inch center to center with my sons rifle (it has an old Weaver 2.5 scope) and 1 group at .758 with mine, which has a 6 power Weaver Classic Scope :-D

I know this is only at 50yds, but it does show that this bullet is right for the KRAG. I know this is like the gambler that only tells his winning stories. So yes, those are the two best, but we have shot many groups in the 1" to 1.3 or 4".

Best of luck

Potsy
05-06-2009, 08:51 PM
It says on Lyman's web site that the 311284 was originally designed for the Krag.
I did notice that Mt. Baldy Bullets has NEI #65's (210 grn. RN, GC) for sale.
It looks similar to the Lyman, I'd like to try a few before I buy a mold (which will probably be the Lyman).
Does anyone have any experience with the NEI bullet?
Does it perform and operate in a similar manner to the Lyman?
(I know, lots of variables, just looking for opinions)
Thanks for all the replies!!!