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View Full Version : Cylinder fitting on an S&W K frame



fecmech
05-01-2009, 01:15 PM
When fitting the cylinder in a K frame what is the procedure regarding the hand? I'm guessing it must be long enough to rotate the cylinder till the lock drops into place and support the pawl but not so long as to prevent the hammer from going to full cock. Can anyone enlighten me as to the correct procedure? Nick

leftiye
05-02-2009, 11:34 PM
Try it first. If it rotates and falls into the locking detents correctly - you're home free. As for the length thang - if there is a problem - you'll have to assess it yourself. You've already described the too long situation. The answer there is obvious, get a file (or other tool as needed) and shorten it. If it's too short and won't rotate the cylinder into battery, you'll have to buy a new one and shorten it as necessary. I would guess that you've already tried it, also however my guess is that the hand won't be your big (or any) problem.

If you're fitting a new cylinder with a new extractor (new, not just new to your gun), you're in for some real fun in fitting the outside edges of the rotating star for clearance. From the factory they're muy oversize, and the hand jams between the star and the frame causing the trigger to stick in the full back position, and locking the gun up until the trigger is pushed forward.

I suspect that you also know about tolerances between the cylinder and the crane, the fitting the front ring on the cylinder where it bears against the crane for forward clearance/travel (has to be turned down if too long); Endshake being adjusted out with shims; and headspace being the result of turning. the rear surface of the extractor to be not too short nor too thick. The extractor rod must be tightly (did I say tight? Let me repeat that) screwed into the extractor, and the turning must involve a STRAIGHT ASSEMBLY, otherwise you will get varying cylinder gaps bettween chambers.

You must first check and/or set headspace, then (if the front ring allows assembly, and closing the cylinder - otherwise you must first shorten the ring some) set endshake with the shims, then face the barrel if necessary to get proper cylinder gap.

HeavyMetal
05-02-2009, 11:41 PM
If you don't have Kuhnhausen's book on the S&W revolver go buy it!

This will help you fit anything on a S&W revolver!

StarMetal
05-02-2009, 11:46 PM
If you don't have Kuhnhausen's book on the S&W revolver go buy it!

This will help you fit anything on a S&W revolver!

The advice posted here in the quote is the smart thing to do rather then listen to what all of us have to say.

Joe

fecmech
05-07-2009, 07:49 PM
Thanks for the posts gentlemen. DavidR had purchased a a new cylinder for his K 38 and asked if I would give it a try. After reading these posts and some other checking I've done the job is over my head. This is a new cyl and extractor so it needs to go to someone familiar with the process. Again thanks to all who took the time to reply. Nick