Mould handles repair?

[trooperdan]

Hey guys,

I have a set of old Lyman aluminum handles that have loose handles. On one grip, the part of the handle that is supposed to go into the metal ferrule has been burnt away completely. On the other grip, the wood under the ferrule is OK but both the handle and the ferrule easily pull off of the handle extension.

Being as these are aluminum I imagine they do get pretty hot during operation; what do you guys recommend for a successful repair? Acra-glas? JB Weld? Some type of ceramic stickum? Need something sticky and heat resistant!

[David R]

High Temp Sillycone. Purchased from your auto parts store. Make sure its high temp. Comes mostly in Red, but other colors will work. I used it on a few of mine and it never lets go.

David

[Lloyd Smale]

jb weld has worked for me.

[Dale53]

David R;
I am going to try your "High Temperature Silicone". I have just about every make of commercial bullet mould handles out there. Dern near everyone of them has come loose. After they come loose, that is when they break. On a number of mould handles I just drill a hole right thru the ferrule, wood, and metal handle. I then slip a #5x40 bolt thru and finish up with a nut. The drill is barely large enough for the bolt to pass through. Then I put some sort of thread lock on the nut. It is very important not to tighten too much or you will crush the wood underneath. This is a positive, permanent fix.

However, being a bit of the lazy type, I'm going to try your silicone.

Dale53

[imashooter2]

Silicone window caulk has worked well for me.

[C1PNR]

Thank you guys very much! I have a very much more mundane use for this information right now, but still a high priority here!

I need to fix the knob on our Crock Pot lid so it will quit FALLING OFF!! I've glued it so many times I can't remember, and every time it comes off after heating the food.:groner:

No more!! I'm getting some of that high temperature silicone stuff and putting an end to burned fingertips (the screw stays put) for ever!:drinks:

[West Creek]

I fix mold handles by replacing them. I drill a hole in a new peice of dowel rod almost as big as the end of the handle tang. Heat the tang up real good with a torch - when it is good and hot ya push it into the hole - it will burn its way into the handle for a perfect fit unlike the loose fit typically found on most handles.

This is the same method used for files - turning tools etc and works real good. If you want to get fancy ya can even replace the ferrel. For $0.15 and 10 minutes you have new handles.

West Creek

[Calamity Jake]

I've always used wood file handles picked up at the hardware store, (take the mold handles with you to get a good fit) some will need to be drilled for a good fit.
While i'm there I get some 1/16 or 3/32 roll pins (or spring pins depending on where you are from) as long or longer than the handles are in dia, 3/4 inch dia. handles get 3/4 inch long pins, I also get extra pins for other handles that are loose but in good shape.
After drilling the file handles to fit(if needed) then drive them on the tangs of the mold handles (go easy you don't want to split the new handles) Then drill thru wood and metal tang together and drive the pins flush with one side and grind off the excess.

For us old guys that have a little arthritis, use the large file handles, after installing you will have to file flats on the insides so they will close far enough for the blocks to close.

[Maineboy]

I've made a couple of "emergency" repairs to Lyman handles that split or just became loose while in use by using small hose clamps. The problem is that the temporary repairs have become permanent. I think I'll try some of the suggested fixes.

[David R]

I learned about the silicone right here on this here board. :lovebooli

David

[Edward429451]

I've got some hose clamps here n there on my handles. It never occured to me to use hi temp silicone, that's a good idea! I have both red and black on my truck right now. BTW, the black stuff can be found at fireplace outlets or HVAC supply stores. (the red is ugly).

I've made handles before by burning them on like was described already. That method works good. I usually fill the hole with epoxy before final inserttion.

Good thread.

[Frank46]

Go for the nut and bolt approach. The hi-temp silicone will also work. Do not use epoxy. When it gets hot the resins will burn off and handle will fall apart. A buddy one time used devcon plastic steel to repair a hole in his muffler at work. Once that stuff got good and hot, it started smoking like one of those WWI four stackers. And he did not make it home without the patch falling off. Almost got a ticket from the local PD. Frank