Range Report: Springfield 1888

[KirkD]

The update is posted further down in the thread

At lunch time today, I managed to squeeze in a quick trip to the range to try out three different loads. My rifle is an original Springfield 1888 made 118 years ago, but in fantastic shape. Here's a photo .....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/3855Win/Sprngfld-1888-tree-800-pix.jpg

The first load was a bit scary for me to try. I read about using cream of wheat filler in old cartridges, but I'd never tried it before. I loaded up just 5 cartridges with 30 grains of IMR 3031 plus 1/4 teaspoon (rounded) under a 500 grain SAECO RNPB boolit that I'd cast last fall. I'd loaded these 5 rounds up last fall, but was waiting to get up the courage to shoot them. Finally, I figured today's the day. I laid the rifle barrel across my shooting bag and took careful aim through the peep of the Buffington sight, making sure my arms were well back in case she blew, and I pulled the trigger. After three rounds, I went down to take a look. At 100 yards, the 3 shots made a nice little 11/16" group. This load looks like it has potential and gives a hefty 1,170 fps. Here's a photo of the target ...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/3855Win/Range%20Results/500-grain-target-w-wheat.jpg

For the next two loads, I only had 2 bullets and three bullets respectively, so I figured I'd use the remaining two cream of wheat loads to adjust my sights a little closer to centre.

The next load was 30 grains of IMR 4198 under a 340 grain FNPB bullet. A fellow had sent me three, but one had a bad casting flaw, so I only had two shots. I took aim and let 'er rip. Velocity was 1,416 fps and, man, was the point of impact ever different than the 500 grain boolits. The thumb tack at the top left corner of the target was obliterated, but both bullets went in within 1/4" of each other. A 2-shot group of 1/4" at 100 yards isn't all that bad.

The final load was 30 grains of IMR 4198 under a 405 grain FNPB boolit which gave 1,410 fps. I only had three of these, so I let 'er fly and then went down to take a look. a 3-shot group of 2 & 11/16" at 100 yards. Not bad. Here's a photo ....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/3855Win/Range%20Results/405-grain-Sprfld-target.jpg

As you may have guessed, that 500 grain cream of wheat load has my attention. I'll be loading up some more of that to try again. The 340 grain bullet also gave phenomenal accuracy, but since I don't have that mould, I won't be doing any more work with that one for the near future. I'd like to do some more work with the 405 grain bullet. I got a bunch of them to work with. Maybe a little cream of wheat ...?

[wiljen]

Gorgeous rifle - I'm green.

[Buckshot]

................Beautifull old rifle, and some nice shooting to boot. Sounds like you need some casting time!

................Buckshot

[Bigjohn]

That is certainly an attention seeker; good to look at and a good shooter.

I'm jealous. :mrgreen:

John

[montana_charlie]

Very nice looking rifle. Deserves a steady diet of BP...
CM

[Ron B.]

Nice Trapper! I love them!

Wow, nice groups too!

I would caution you however on your loads. Each sounds a little too hot to me. I prefer keeping everything under 1200 fps for my traps. Those heavier bullets; more in the 1050fps range.

Treat your Trapdoor nice; she'll be true! :)
GRB

[KirkD]

Today, I took my Springfield 1888 .45-70 rifle made in 1891 down to the range to try a 5-shot group. I had 17 rounds loaded up (500 grain SAECO boolit over 30 grains of IMR 3031 topped up with 1/4 teaspoon of cream of wheat for filler). I shot off several adjusting the sights and my friend shot off a bunch. Finally, it was time to try a careful 5-shot group at 100 yards to see if last week's 3-shot 11/16" group at 100 yards was a fluke. I took 5 careful shots through that beautiful Buffington sight and then strolled down to the 100 yard butts to take a look. By gum! The five shots formed a 1 & 1/16" group! Now I'm ready to fine-tune my sights adjustment. Here's a photo of the target with one of my 500 grain rounds for comparison ….

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/3855Win/Range%20Results/Sprngfld-5-shots.jpg

Boys, this 118 year-old rifle demonstrated loud and clear that it ain't done ridin' yet.

[Ron B.]

You're getting better groups with open sights than most of us get with fancy scopes, and expensive venier/lollipops!

I've shot a lot of Trapdoors. In all honesty I never came close to what you have achieved at 100 yards. Set me down at 60 yards, yes. Although, the sights on Trapdoors are nice, like most guns they really aren't designed for long range shooting. Tell us more; your technique, and such. And, what modifications you have made to your TD to achieve such outstanding results.

Thanks,
GRB

[oldhickory]

I'm on my umptheenth Trapdoor and all but one have been shooters, (the ONE that was not was a rather ragged carbine with ornamental tacks all over it). I've found over my long relationship with Trapdoors that if you cast a nice boolit and use careful consistant loading they'll shoot right up there with any rifle, modern, repro, or original...Even if the bore is less than pristine.

[KirkD]

GRB, I have not made any modifications at all. However, it has the Buffington sight, which I flip up and I sight through the little peep hole in the flip up part, so it's not really shooting with open sights. Also, the bullet I'm shooting is undersize to the groove diameter by about .004. Without the cream of wheat the bullets wobble in flight and I'm doing good to get a 3" group at 100 yards. The cream of wheat makes a large difference. The bullets were cast out of pure clip-on wheel weights with no tin added. I have another 500 grain mould that another forum member sent me that drops the bullets at a larger diameter. I'm looking forward to trying these without the cream of wheat to see what they will do.

[Ron B.]

Hey Kirk,
I just happen to be on line. :)

Any modifications to your front sight at all?

I never have used any fillers except cookie cutting styrofoam when needed for my 45-120s. In 45-70, I don't use any filler. My cast boolit loads are very accurate; even at 100 yards, or more through, for example an Encore with scope. I generally use my Encores for testing unproven loads.

Thanks,
GRB

[KirkD]

GRB, I just got back from a late lunch. Now that you mention it, the front sight has been modified. The original front sight blade was way too short, with the result that I was shooting over a foot high at 100 yards. I ordered a taller front sight blade from a trapdoor fellow who makes them (I can't recall who it was). I then taped a piece of cardboard to the original front sight blade and progressively cut it down until I was bang on at 100 yards. I then took the replacement blade and filed it down to about the same height. Final tweaking was done at the range. I then blued the front sight blade to match the rifle. Essentially, the front sight blade looks identical to the original except that it is taller. I saved the original blade in case I ever sell the rifle (I can't imagine doing that).

[Ron B.]

For sure; don't sell that Trapper unless you give me first grabs! Lol!

I really like IMR's 3031 powder as well. But, since trying out their TRAIL BOSS, actually prefer it more. Neither meters very well through my Hornady LNL-AP's powder dispensers. I've learned to take it slow; running either powder (and many others) through my ChargeMaster 1500s.

Thanks for the information Kirk; sounds as though you really know what you are doing.
GRB

[oldhickory]

Well, you guys have done it now! I just gotta dust off my 1884 for some range time!:p

[Gussy]

How are you managing to get those groups with that 8 lb, sloppy trigger? I have been working on mine and got it to 5 lbs and clean breaking. The clean break feels like a lot lighter pull. Next, to fine tune some black powder loads.

[KirkD]

Gussy, you sure ain't kidding about the trigger. It's the hardest trigger to pull of any gun I've ever shot. I put my finger right down at the tip of the trigger so it's a bit easier to pull.

[oldhickory]

How are you managing to get those groups with that 8 lb, sloppy trigger? I have been working on mine and got it to 5 lbs and clean breaking. The clean break feels like a lot lighter pull. Next, to fine tune some black powder loads.

Ain't no big thing, just take the lock out and disassemble. Using a Dremmel, or die grinder with a small polishing wheel and some metal polishing compound dress the sear and tumbler to mirror bright mating surfaces. This, (carefully done) should bring the trigger pull to around 3-4lbs.:drinks:

[waksupi]

Use a dremel, and be prepared to buy some new parts. Lock polishing is done by hand.

[oldhickory]

Haven't ruined one yet, and they all came out real smooth. Springfield parts are a whole bunch better than what the Italians ship over here in the repros...Now THOSE I've seen ruined even with hand polishing!

[KirkD]

I started trying to take my lock out once, but it was so tight into the wood that I decided to leave it be. I was afraid of chipping the wood.

[Ron B.]

Okay Guys,
Don't dare alter your triggers; your barrels, or anything else on your old guns! Don't you understand these old firearms aren't meant to be messed with? They are meant to be enjoyed; as is! :Fire:

And, if you do remove your side-plate, you will regret it. As Kirk mentioned, there's no way to remove the sideplate without causing splintering. Unless, of course you know what you are doing. Most of us don't. :confused:

GRB

[Rebel Dave]

When I was an active skirmisher, I worked on a few musket locks for people.
I never ground down the "tumbler", specialy with a dremel tool.
What I did was to "silver solder" a piece of Brass shim stock, onto the full cock posistion of the tumbler. Take a piece of shim stock ,
then form it to the same shape as the tumbler, silver solder it on to the tumbler, then you can trim it off and polish it. I use a 150 watt electric soldering iron. It might take a little practice, but you can do it. After you get the shim stock on the tumbler, polish all the lock parts with a "buffing wheel" or "crocus cloth" even polish the back of the lock plate.The lock screws do not need to be super tight, this will make the parts drag, especially "the sear". Polish the parts where they rub or slide on each other. Use a good grade of light grease, on all the parts, at assembly.

When you grind the tumbler, you are actually ruining an original part. these old original lock parts are not getting any cheaper either, and LOTS of THE REPRO PARTS are JUNK. 10 mainsprings will have 10 different tensions, and sear springs are worse. Most tumblers and bridles are a joke.

Rebel Dave

[Rebel Dave]

Kirk
When removing locks from any gun, a good practice is to loosen the side lock screws a couple of turns, do not take them all the way out. Then tap them with a small mallet on the head of the screw, gently so as not to knock the lock out real crooked. Gently is the key word hear. Thats the way I have been doing it for years.

Rebel dave

[oldhickory]

I didn't say grind, I said polish with a wool wheel and metal polish to the contact surfaces of the sear and tumbler. I haven't needed to do this to my current Trapdoor M1884 as the trigger is very friendly as is.

[montana_charlie]

Shaping (polishing) sear contact surfaces with a stone maintains the flat faces and sharp corners necessary for clean...and safe...operation.
I have never seen a wool (or felt) wheel which is capable of that degree of precision...no matter how hard it is.
CM

[wrcook]

A note about the Buffington sight. A very fine sight for accurate shooting, since the 1880's . The sight in the flat position (battle sight) is set for 220 yards, thus the high shooting at 100 yards. flip the sight up, and the lowest peep hole (the triangular one, I think) is set for 170 yards, and is the one to use for "short" range. It was designed for 500 grain boolits, with a load of 70 grains of black compressed (see Wolfe's book).

Bill C

[wrcook]

I also prefer to use a very fine stone and polish the sear and tumbler.

[KirkD]

A note about the Buffington sight. A very fine sight for accurate shooting, since the 1880's . The sight in the flat position (battle sight) is set for 220 yards, thus the high shooting at 100 yards. flip the sight up, and the lowest peep hole (the triangular one, I think) is set for 170 yards, and is the one to use for "short" range. It was designed for 500 grain boolits, with a load of 70 grains of black compressed (see Wolfe's book).

Bill C
That sounds about exactly what the original front side blade did. I've kept the original blade, of course, but for my purposes, which include deer hunting at ranges as close as 100 yards or less, I needed a taller front sight blade. Thanks for posting that info. Very interesting. Of all the iron sights I've ever used, including a Lyman receiver sight, that Buffington sight is, by far, the best I've tried. I especially like how easy it is to adjust for windage, and the fine graduations which allow me to precisely sight in my rifle for various ranges.