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View Full Version : Tip for Sight Adjustment on MILSURP Rifles



4570guy
04-21-2009, 12:38 PM
Suggestion for MILSURP cast shooters -- this has probably been thought of by many, but thought I'd post it anyway.

I have both a Model 1917 and a Savage Enfield that I shoot cast out of. Of course, to hit the target at 100-200 yards, I have to raise the elevation on the rear leaf to around 700-800 yards. The click adjustments on the '17 are huge at this setting and provides no "fine" adjustment capability.

I didn't want to modify either rifle from its as issued configuration, however, I didn't like having to raise the rear sight on the '17 so high that it runs out of fine adjustment (fine being a relative term here...).

Various front sight heights were made for these rifles. I ordered a couple of extra front sight blades from Numerich and installed "short" blades on both rifles. This should allow me to lower the rear sight adjustment measurably and (especially for the '17) recover some fine elevation adjustment. This also allows a better cheek weld on the stock for shooting at moderate ranges.

Of course, one could always file down the front sight blade some and I may still do that with the replacements. Having the "original" as issued front sight blades in my parts bin makes me feel a bit better about modifying the Numerich surplus part if need be.

Now if I can just think of a good way to do the same for my '03A3 -- unfortunately, those front sights weren't so easily replaceable!

Bob S
04-21-2009, 09:16 PM
Now if I can just think of a good way to do the same for my '03A3 -- unfortunately, those front sights weren't so easily replaceable!

Agreed it's a little difficult to replace the just the sight blade on an 03A3 because that tiny pin is a pain. It's pretty easy to replace the whole front sight assembly, though. Drift out the larger pin in the base of the sight, and knock the whole assembly off with a plastic mallet. I have several assemblies made up with various blade heights, and I can easily change them on the range.

Very short front sight assembly for mild cast loads is shown on the left.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/BobS1/03A3_refined_sights.jpg


On the right is a crude "continuously adjustable rear sight". When I got a rear sight that had a broken spring screw and no detent spring, I drilled and tapped the aperture for a #2 x 56 truss head screw that acts as a binding screw. Worked quite well, but sometimes took two hands to make elevation adjustments ... difficult to do if you're in the sling in a prone position.

Refinement: the detent spring screw hole is drilled out and tapped for a #4 x 40 socket head set screw. The fixturing hole in the windage yoke is filled in by tapping it for a #10 screw and then filing level with the inclined surface. The set screw is loosened slightly with a small Allen key, and the aperture can be drifted continuously, and locked down anywhere. With practice, this can be done with one hand. If you do the math, movement of .035" on the inclined surface gives one MOA adjustment. As a reference, there is 3 MOA between the 200 yard mark, and the 300 yard mark. If you can estimate 1/3 of that, you can make reasonably precise changes in elevation. It gets easier with practice.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/BobS1/Springfield%2003s/03A3%20rear%20sights/Windageyokes.jpg


It's not as convenient as reaching up and twiddling a knob on a Redfield International, but it's cheap and easy, and the parts that are modified are still readily available.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

Maineboy
04-22-2009, 04:38 AM
Bob, you've thought of everything. I don't know how many times you've posted something that is extremely useful. Your explainations with pictures make your points very easy to understand for this simple minded shooter. I really appreciate what you and the other knowledgeable regulars post on this board. I've learned alot from you guys. Thanks again.

beemer
04-22-2009, 08:15 AM
I have modified the front sight for the SMLE to make them easier to adjust. The blade was filed off and a 1/8'' hole is drilled in place of the blade. I took a 1/8'' pin and filed part of it square but left a section at the bottom round to fit the hole in the base, this replaced the blade. A small hole was drilled and tapped in the side of the base for a set screw to lock the pin in place. The pin can be filled to any height or made to whatever width you like.Small adjustments can be made by moving the pin up and down. It looks kind of odd but gives the same sight picture as the original and makes working with the non-adjustable battle sight easier. You can find an extra to modify and keep the original and not harm the rifle.

beemer

hydraulic
04-22-2009, 09:31 PM
Bob S: I use your recommended load for 4831 in my M1. I have an 8 pounder of 872 and spent last evening looking for your recommended load in Castpics and this place. Can't find it. Can you post it here, or am I highjacking this thread?

Bob S
04-22-2009, 11:51 PM
See the "does anyone shoot cast in an M1" thread.

Resp'y,
Bob S.