forster hollow pointer

[glenkans]

Guys, I have a Forster case trimmer and I want to use the hollow pointer for .357 cast swc bullets. My collet on the case trimmer is a no. 1 and it doesn't seem to hold the .357 case tight enough. The case trimmer was bought at a gun show and only came with the no. 1 collet. What collet number do I need to buy.I also might want to do the same with .44 if the .357 works ok. I really don't need expansion with the 44 but do with a short(3in.) barrel .357. I did cast .357 swc hp bullets and got good performance but this would be less trouble to just drill a hole in the nose. Ya, sometimes they'd shatter but coyotes did drop when I hit them.Best wishes,Glen

[Treeman]

If my rememberer is working( and it doesn't always) .38 Spl. uses collet #2.

[Gary51]

Per an old Forster catalog I have sitting around the 38 Special/357 Magnum use collet #3

[Pepe Ray]

There are only 4 collets total in the Forster line up. #4 is the XTRA large one not included in the standar pkging. Anyone lookin forward to reloading more than a few years should have #'s 1,2,3 anyhow.
PR

[BCB]

glenkans,

A #3 for the 357 Magnum...

A #1 for the 44 Magnum...

Hollow pointing boolits with this system can be trying! I have done quite a few for 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 44 Magnum, and 45LC.

Do you have the Universal Hollow Pointer?

The power screw driver adapter is the only way to go!...

They used to make them specific for the 38/357 and for the 44. Now a Universal one is available and I use it for all of the above. BUT, the original 357 hollow pointer might do a better job...

I will take some time and practice to achieve success or "good looks"...

Good-luck...BCB

[BCB]

A couple of pictures--maybe!!!

[shooting on a shoestring]

I use my Forster to drill a small indentation in the center of the boolit, then use a drill press to finish the hole. Doing boxes of 50 its much faster, much less work, and allows for more choice of drill diameters. I keep a .38 case filled with Marvel Mystery oil on the drill press table and run my drill bit into it before drilling a HP. It keeps the lead from galling and binding the drill. I merely hold the loaded round being drilled with my fingers, sitting on the drill press table, turing about 400 rpm, using the depth stop on the quill, drill them about 3 to 5 per minute. To make the center indentation with the Forster only takes about two revolutions, goes very quickly.

[JW6108]

The rifle hollow pointer (1/16") works well to make a pilot hole for the pistol hollow pointer.

If you need to know the finished weight you can make up a few dummy rounds (weigh each before drilling), drill to different depths, weigh again and subtract that from the undrilled weight. The dummies can then be used to set the locking collar on the shaft so that the depth can be regulated to achieve the desired weight.

They are a little "busy" to use, but to me not as much trouble as casting hollow points.

[Pavogrande]

I use a set up similiar to BCB's but instead of regular twist drills I use a #2 or #3 center drill - It drills hole and puts a cone on it in one operation ---

[Charlie Sometimes]

use the center drills with a radius on them- makes for a much nicer HP- IMHO.

[twotrees]

with a couple of center drill of different sizes your ready to make some great hollow points.

The wide no twist configuration of a center drill is exactly like the old box of Copper/ soft metal drills, that "Walked out" of my shop one day.

Center drills (http://www.sherline.com/3021inst.htm)

Like this set.

Good Shooting,

Twotrees

[Charlie Sometimes]

Got mine (drills & collars) from McMaster-Carr- they have several choices.
http://www.mcmaster.com