jason's problem number one

[jballs918]

ok guys i'm sure there is a easy fix to my problem. oh you ask what is my problem. well alot of my boolits have vent lines all over them. im not sure if im running to not or if maybe my mold is a bit messed up. or what. i tried using the pencil. not much luck. so if you guys could drop me a few hints that would be great, and oh be the way im using a rcbs 32-170fn and im running my lee pot on 8. it is all ww alloy. thanks agian guys

[chunkum]

Jason,
Is this a new mould you are breaking in or one that has been put up for a while?
c.

[9.3X62AL]

Jason--

If by "vent lines" you mean the "whiskers" that are formed by those vent lines in the RCBS (and other) molds, I don't consider such occurrences to be "bad". All that is happening is that a little bit of alloy is flowing into the vents due to pressure. That's an indication that the mold is working pretty well, although the whiskers can cause boolits to hang up a little.

If a "fin" is forming between the blocks--these sometimes have vent lines inset within them--there's a block mating/alignment problem occurring, which can be remedied by resetting the alignment pins a bit--if the block isn't warped.

[jballs918]

ok its a new mold sorry about that. im getting both fins and whiskers. so im not sure if it is off or not. i wouldnt know about that. but thanks for the tips

[Buckshot]

..............Fins are a definative sign the blocks aren't completly closed. Need to get that taken care of.

Whiskering can me too hot a mould, too hot an alloy, pressure casting, or a very fluid alloy, ie: lots of tin. Maybe a combination of a couple. However if it's finning AND getting whiskers, it's probably just the blocks aren't mating correctly.

(Lots of potential in that last sentance for Carpetman)

................Buckshot

[David R]

No one told you. Hold the blocks up to the light and look at where they meet. If you can see light, there is an alignment problem. This should be with the handles on. Open the sprue plate, hold the handles like you normally would and look between the blocks and down the hole from the boolit. You should see no light. If you do make sure there is no foriegn matter on the mating surfaces. If not, get a punch and "adjust" the alignment pins.

David

[sundog]

Jason, funny thing about finning. I've 'beagled' several moulds, and they've worked very well. Daylight between the blocks was obvious, but even then -- no finning. I've had moulds that finned on their own, too. Go figure. btw, one of the moulds I 'beagled' was the same one you're having trouble with - 32-170-FN. I did it for the 8x57 and got good boolits. Good advice above concerning very careful inspection. My experience with out of the box, new moulds is that all they are is a form that requires additional work to make useable. I use a 20 pound Lee pot, dipper or ladle pour, and most often run it wide open with WWs. Here's something to try. When you close the mould, tapped the handle hinge pin and see if they close any tighter - not uncommon on RCBS moulds. If so, check the holes for the alignment pins for burring, cratering, etc. Chamfer and stone as necessary, and carefully and lightly stone the edges of the block mating surfaces. Chances are you will feel burrs. Do this carefully at about a 45d angle and remove almost no material. This will also create a vent line under the sprue plate. Blocks need to mate up perfectly. Pay attention to the corners. It could also be a problem in the cutouts for the handles or the handles themselves where they hold the blocks. Anyplace there is a hole, there can and will be cratering. In the handle slots on the blocks you can use a flat file to clean up any burrs or cratering. Good moulds are kinda like fine women, you gotta spend some time with them before you try to get them warmed up. sundog

[carpetman]

DavidR---When you hold the blocks up to the light and you see light,could you just glue on some weather stripping to block the light?

[jballs918]

ok guys i will try to reduce the heat. hopefully that will cure my problems if not then im a bit iffy on adjusting the mold. it isnt cheap. i dont want to screw it up. good lord the wife would be mad. well maybe if all else fails i can send it to one of you mold masters to get ti done who knows

[NVcurmudgeon]

jballs, if you hesitate to adjust the mould, (agreed, they aren't cheap) RCBS has a great warranty policy. If it's broke they fix it or give you a new one. You can call the 800 number on their web site for advice. I don't have time or space to list all the free stuff, including my main press, I have gotten from RCBS.

[StarMetal]

whenever I've gotten fins on my bullets it was always because some leading on the mould kept it from fully closing. I've never had a mould fin the bullets from the alloy being too hot. Usually I'd fine a little glob of lead on the face of the mould somewhere. Cleaned it off and all was fine again. If your mould faces are clean then either your alignment pins aren't letting the mould close fully, you have lead somwhere on the faces, your mould blocks are warped, OR you have the wrong handles on the mould. I've seen where if the handle holed that the mould blocks pins go through were in the wrong position and wouldn't let the blocks close all the ways or evenly.

Joe

[jballs918]

i have the rcbs handles, so hopefully that isnt a issue. i will double check my mold tonight and see what it looks like. i was casting at a pretty good rate last night. a 2 holer helps alot.

[drinks]

J;
My only RCBS mold does as yours, the bullets look like little christmas tree models, the only one of the 30 some molds I have that does that.
I cannot remember where, but some forum had a very long thread on how to make RCBS molds close properly. Seems RCBS does not actually align their molds when they ship them out.
The reason I only have one RCBS mold.
Don

[David R]

DavidR---When you hold the blocks up to the light and you see light,could you just glue on some weather stripping to block the light?

Carpetman, the weatherstrip is to keep out the draft, not the light.

:) David :)

[mooman76]

J
I use allot of Lee moulds and they don't line up as well especially after allot of use or after you have moulded allot of bullets in your session. What I got into a habit of doing that helps is when you close your mould and while holding it closed give the mould a little tap with whatever you are using to help release your bullets after moulding. I use a hard plastic headed hammer of about 4 oz. in weight. The little tap usually makes the mould line up if it is a little off. Also did you lube your mould handle and mould fittings before you started? It helps the mould work freely which helps it to line up easily as well as prolonging the life of the mould. Also make sure you don't have any little spects of lead between the halves. Even a tiny speck will be enough to cause seperation!

[jballs918]

ok i looked at them in the light, im seeing daylight through them. this kind of concerns me. i tried to clean them as well as possable. so im wondering if the pins are off. i wouldnt have a clue to tell you honestly. i see what there is a little lead but i used a poctet knife to get it off as well as i can. so im not sure. thanks for the info. also how can i tell if the mold is warped. i only used them once.

[StarMetal]

Next time don't use a knife to clean the lead off your blocks. Use something softer then the block material so you don't ruin the blocks especially over time. You can put the one block without the alignment pins in it on a known flat surface and look at it closely to see if it is flat and not warped. The one with the pins in it you will have to use a good straight edge. You can put the blocks together with your fingers and see if they join together all the way without binding. The hole in the block that receive the pins should have a slight chaffer on them not a sharp edge so the pins will guide in better. This is a very small little angle. Also check for burrs in that hole. The pins shouldn't protrude really far out either. If you determine your blocks are warped contact RCBS and send them back. They have good customer relationships. Honestly I have alot of RCBS moulds and think they are quite good for the price and I don't have any problems with mine. They cast real fine bullets for me also.

Joe

[jballs918]

ok just a question, if for some reason i cant get it queit right does anyone do mold work. i dont have a problem sending it to someone and have them look at it, 15 or 20 bucks for a 60 molds its alot better then messing it up. but i will look at the pins and the holes.

[mooman76]

J
If you can't fix the problem before this weekend let me know and you can come by or I will come to you! I don't really think it is a problem that we can not fix! I clean my moulds with a green scatch pad or a small brass wire brush used lightly.

[sundog]

Joe, check my earlier post. Those alignment holes are also cratered - one both sides. Stone the female side flat with the block face, you'll see what I mean, it gets shiny. It the male side thats can be a problem - how to reduce the crate without screwing up the alignment pins. Gotta remember, those pins are pressed into those holes, which are also cratered. Cleaning up around them can be a booger. Chamferring the female will help to accept the crater of the male side, but that's not really the best way to do it although that's what we wind up with mostly. I don't know the best way - gotta go all the way around the pin without messing it up. Maybe remove the pin, fix, the hole, then reset the pin - that is if it would still be tight. Each one is an 'indabidule', just like kids. sundog

[Roudy]

I second what moonman said about lightly tapping the bottom of the mold blocks with my wooden mallet. I've just gotten into the habit of doing this, but "lightly" tapping while "gently" squeezing the mold handles closed. You can feel the halves come together.

I suspect if you overdo the tapping or squeezing you will eventually damage the mold, but not sure about that.

Roudy

[felix]

Perhaps a little better would be to gently drop the mold on a wooded plank/board and then shut the halves together slowly while still flat on the board. That's what I do for almost perfect alignment every time. ... felix

[jballs918]

ok guys, i casted tonight. i dropped the heat down to about 7 on the pot, that seemed to help alot. one thing also i slowed down alot. so i think it was a few things. im still getting whiskers. but no where as bad. i take it and check it to the light every time. that doesnt slow me down to much just a extra second or so. towards the end they started whiskerin a little worse im not sure if this is from getting the mold to hot. but all in all it was alot better tonight. but i also noticed my weights a verying. i have like 3 common weights its throwing is this also normal

jason

[snowtigger]

First, get a thermometer. Adjust the temp knob to maintain a constant temperature. This will eliminate MOST of your weight variation.
Second, back that sucker down in temperature. I cast with wWW with 2% added tin. I usually cast at about 650 degrees. I get good fill-out with all my molds.
The only exception to this is when I am trying to get a slightly smaller diametet bullet. I find I have one bullet that will not chamber easily in my .454 cas. If I raise the alloy temp to 800 in that mold, the problem goes away.
Temperature has a lot to do with both the size of the bullet and the weight.
Also, get that lead out. Anything between the mold halves will cause them to fail to close and you will get finning. Whiskers are a nuisance, not a problem. Fins are a problem. Most of my favorite molds are RCBS. I have never had a problem with any of them.

[StarMetal]

Felix got it right in my book. When I'm dealing with a mould that is a tad difficult at closing properly I lay it flat on the flat metal bas of my RCBS furnace gently and then it lines up alot better. Only time I ever tap the blocks is after I cut the sprue...I tap the bottom of the mould very gently while opening the mould. Helps the bullets drop right out should I have a mould that wants to hang up the bullets alittle.

Joe