Bull Plate Sprue Lube, WOW!!!

[arcticbreeze]

I just received mt order from them base on some threads here and I have to say Wow this stuff is awsome. It kind of looks like marine lower end oil, kind of greenish black. I have to say it will probably spoil me.:mrgreen:

[dromia]

You need to try it with a dash of cola and some ice. :)

[Trey45]

I;m addicted to bull plate, I refuse to cast without it.

[armexman]

Hola, This must be the product that God gave to casters so they would stop voicing profanities!!
I am now casting with all my molds(34) just to dab some BSPL. It has brought a smile to my countenance; all those molds i stopped using are now dropping keepers, after the appropriate heating! I have a pile of real nice boolits, the hard part will be to separate them;) seriously THE best thing you can do is buy some.

[Shiloh]

I ordered some from the recommendations of forum members. Glad I did Good Stuff. Thanks to the Congiolosi's

Shiloh

[ghh3rd]

Glad I did Good Stuff
+1 on that

[Daves1]

I lube my presses with it.

[borderghost]

Where do you guys order this bull plate spue lube from??

[Sky King]

The link to the Bullshop is at the bottom of this page.

[kamikaze1a]

armexmen, what problem did the sprue lube cure? I believe this lube is used to lube only the sprue plate and hinge? I llooked into ordering some but am spoiled on paypal so did not order the lube...No2 pencil seems to work for the sprue plate...

[Randall]

Its good stuff,just tried some,I can cut the sprue a lot sooner without lead smears on the blocks,I still get the occasional speck on top but they come off easy.I get faster production,less down time for cleaning smears,easier sprue cutting and less wear on the mould.

[jonk]

I have mixed feelings.

I like it for lubing the pivot bolt on the handles. I like it for making speed green. I've found a few other uses for it around the workshop.

I do NOT like to put it on my sprue plates. No matter how sparingly I dab it on, trying to keep it from getting in the cavity, it always gets there in the end and I get wrinkled bullets. Nor do I find that the sprue plate operates that much smoother. It DOES reduce lead smears, but I really don't care if my sprue has a lead smear on it, I DO care that I get a clean cut.

I don't knock it, I just say that in my experience I don't care for it for its main intended use- though I do like it for other applications.

[Randall]

This is the first mould I used it on,a lyman 4 cavity,I barely got a dab on a Q tip and smeared it on top of the blocks with boolits in it, top and bottom of the sprue plate.then I wiped it off with the other end leaving just a residue.

[BABore]

I have mixed feelings.

I like it for lubing the pivot bolt on the handles. I like it for making speed green. I've found a few other uses for it around the workshop.

I do NOT like to put it on my sprue plates. No matter how sparingly I dab it on, trying to keep it from getting in the cavity, it always gets there in the end and I get wrinkled bullets. Nor do I find that the sprue plate operates that much smoother. It DOES reduce lead smears, but I really don't care if my sprue has a lead smear on it, I DO care that I get a clean cut.

I don't knock it, I just say that in my experience I don't care for it for its main intended use- though I do like it for other applications.

Quit following the directions. Get the mold hot, then wipe it on the underside of the sprue plate with a Q-Tip. I dip the Q-Tip and then wring it out on the bottle neck. You only want enough to make the plate shine. After you coat the plate, wipe it back off with a clean cotton rag or paper towel.. You may have to wipe it a couple times. At most you will get some pockets in the boolit's base after the first cast. I only ran into problems when I tried coating the tops of the blocks.

[Dale53]

I have used Bullshop's Sprue Plate lube for some time. Frankly, I wouldn't be without it.

Here's how I do it. I get the mould up to speed (hot and casting well). Then, I cut the sprue leaving the bullets in the cavities. I shake the bottle. I then remove the bottle cap and only use the oil in the lid on one end of a q-tip. I wipe the top and bottom of the sprue plate. I carefully appy to the top of the mould avoiding the bullet bases. I IMMEDIATELY use the clean end of the q-tip and wipe all of the lube off everything (use if first on the mould top and just leave a film, only, on the top of the mould. Then I wipe of top and bottom of the sprue plate.

Sometimes I'll get wrinkled bullets for the first two or three casts after treating, sometimes not. I throw the wrinkled bullets back in the pot.

Now, if I open the mould too soon and I wipe some lead over the top of the mould, it wipes right off and doesn't build up.

One of the great characteristics of this lube is that it doesn't "bake on" and there is NO build up where you have used it.

Aluminum moulds should last forever when using this. Steel moulds show no wear whatsoever and most importantly, the lead wipes off (build up on both mould types can raise the sprue plate giving UGLY sprues to the base of bullets. That never happens with Sprue Plate lube.

One other thing. I apply to the indexing pins to keep wear from the most wear prone area of a bullet mould. Lee two cavity moulds tend to gall and/or stick at the alignment pins (aluminum to steel). After an application of Sprue Plate lube that never happens. These inexpensive moulds are no longer a pain in the tuckus to use.

FWIW
Dale53

[armexman]

All, I am a "experienced" caster (Not a Know-it-all). I too used the pencil, Leementing, Beeswax, and generally wrote the quirks of every mold. I followed Dan's directions and more! I apply it to the whole mold and am careful in not getting it in the cavities. For me I am able to cast better boolits than before. After I apply the lube, the cavities fill-out sharper, the base is smoother and the mold retains heat for a more consistent temperature basis. For a clearer idea; there is nothing like shooting the breeze while I am making boolits so you can see how much nicer boolits are produced. Kami, if you want, I can exhange info on a PM basis.
I have gone to my powder locker and reloading room and counted 51 molds(some are on loan).

[Tom Herman]

armexmen, what problem did the sprue lube cure? I believe this lube is used to lube only the sprue plate and hinge? I llooked into ordering some but am spoiled on paypal so did not order the lube...No2 pencil seems to work for the sprue plate...

I ordered several bottles simply by reading the testimonials here.... Money Orders are easy to do, so is cash in an envelope...
Thanks to everyone for the directions! I'm looking forward to easier casting. Anything that makes things go smoother and molds last longer is well worth the money.

Happy Shootin'! -Tom

[Heavy lead]

I traded off a mould to Dan that he wanted a lot more than me and I got it for a good deal anyway, for some speed green and bullplate. The speed green is pretty good lube, haven't used it much, but man that bullplate is awesome. The Qtip is key here guys (pretty good for ears too). It keeps all my moulds running smooth.
Anybody heard from Bullshop lately, haven't run into any of Dan's posts?

[shadowdog]

Does anyone distribute ths stuff quickly in the lower 48?

Thanks,

Chris

[NuJudge]

This must be the product that God gave to casters so they would stop voicing profanities!!

That portion of the cussing resulting from the Tinsel Fairy and unexpectedly hot bullets is yet to be resolved.

CDD

[DLCTEX]

Bullshop is the only source for Bullplate Lube, there is no equivilent out there. What difference does it make if it comes from Alaska? It go to me faster than mail from Florida.

[shadowdog]

Thanks,

After reading thier disclaimer on the website I wasn't sure how long it would take to get the lube. Someone told me earler today that it only took a couple of weeks to get thier lube order in the mail, and I plan on mailing my order in on Monday.

I was just putting out feelers to see if it was available from someone who could take online or telephone orders to speed up the delivery time, because I wasn't sure if it would take allot longer.

Thanks,

Chris

[keebo52]

My last order took 11 days from the day I mailed the USPS MO to the day I received the package. That's pretty darn fast from AK to MS.

[1Shirt]

As far as I am concerned there are few things that can beat Bullplate. Dry toilet paper and sliced white bread comes to mind.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[Sky King]

I'll agree with Keebo52 it took about the same time from my mail order from IL to get to AK and then get the Bullplate from AK to IL

[budman46]

all you guys, especially armexman and dale 53:

what y'all said, plus more...i was able to cast so fast using sprue plate without smearing that my 160gr .30 calibers were bending...now that's fast! i wish i was still employed in my laboratory so i could analyzed what this product is made of...you know, csi kinda stuff...i would never give the formula away, but i am curious! :wink:

my steel moulds give better performance as well, but bpsl really shines with aluminum moulds.

i gifted some bpsl to a well-know gun'riter with a bottle and look for a critique from a respected professional in a major periodical in the next few months.

budman

[Shooter6br]

I never used it I use the lube Milhec supplies with his molds. It is very simular to 2 stroke gas trimmer oil. Same color , smell and viscosity.Some guys use the synthetic version.but differant strokes for differant folks. I guess I need to compare apples with apples.Have to try to get some Bullplate to form an intelligent option............


.

[MT Gianni]

As far as I am concerned there are few things that can beat Bullplate. Dry toilet paper and sliced white bread comes to mind.
1Shirt!:coffee:

As I slice my own wheat bread I'd knock the sliced white off my list.

[randyrat]

Yeh the white bread is kinda Bla'zae , i prefer bread that i have to chew and doesn't melt in my mouth.
One more thing i prefer is to never be without sprue plate lube

[BouseBill]

Another convert to BullPlate Lube[smilie=w:
Wish I'd know about this stuff a long time ago.

Bill

[uncle joe]

I have mixed feelings.

I like it for lubing the pivot bolt on the handles. I like it for making speed green. I've found a few other uses for it around the workshop.

I do NOT like to put it on my sprue plates. No matter how sparingly I dab it on, trying to keep it from getting in the cavity, it always gets there in the end and I get wrinkled bullets. .

Jonk
I had the same problem when I first got mine, cast a few boolits, get the mold good and hot, then cut the sprue then leave the boolits in the mold and take a q-tip with some lube on it and wipe the top of the mold and the bottom of the sprue plate, this will keep it out of the cavities. After that you can cut the sprue while it is still jiggling on top with no smear, really speeds up casting.

sorry i didn't read the other posts so i seem to have made an echo in here

[59stude]

I realy like Bull Plate Sprue Lube. Have tried a lot of different things on my moulds, both steel and aluminium with results going from bad to total failure.
After reading about this excelent product I know I had to try it. A quick email to bullshop to get the right shippings cost, and a fast letter with $$ in it and I had the solution to my moulds in my hands.
I always have been a little shy when people claim that a product is the answer from heaven, but this product is even better.
For example,I lee mented a few of my group buy mould (.357 Dual crimp and .357 Light) and did one pour to get lead in cavities. Applied Bull Plate Sprue Lube as instructed and started casting boolits.
Did cast every day for two weeks and about 2 hours every day and always started with doing one pour and then aply a tiny bit of Sprue lube.
Today I started casting again with the same moulds after they have been laying on my casting bench for about 2 months now.
Lee pot up to 700 degrees and started casting with a cold mould and perfect boolits at first try, so I was thinking lets see how long before I need to put on Sprue Lube.
After 1½ hour I stop casting without have put on sprue lube and the top of the mould is still perfect.

Sorry for the long rant but I realy like this product.

59stude

[kayak1]

Can someone share the website that the Bull Plate lube can be ordered from?

Thanks -kayak1

[2thepoint]

Bullshop, (Dan) is a member here...you can PM him with your needs. He's real good at getting back to you.

[hermans]

I have both Bullplate and Mihec's lube. I cannot really tell the difference, but all I know is that I never want to cast without either ever again. Ordered mine from Bullshop by sending him a PM here on Cast Boolits, and 2 weeks later I got it half way around the world at the southern tip of Africa!

[larryw]

I read at the start of this thread that a link to "Bullshop" was at
the bottom of the page?? I don't see it?? Anyone have it?

[JWFilips]

Bad News It appears Bullshop is banned from this forum. PM me for his contact

[Bullwolf]

I read at the start of this thread that a link to "Bullshop" was at
the bottom of the page?? I don't see it?? Anyone have it?

I know Bullplate is the gold standard that we measure all other sprue lubes by. (Heck I use it too)

But in a pinch most any good quality 2 cycle oil will work near as well. Also during the last Bullshop absence, I recall Randyrat was selling his ZIP sprue/mould lube to fill the hole that the loss of Bullshop left.

You could always PM randyrat (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?2594-randyrat) . You can read about ordering lubes from randyrat in the link below.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?131679-TAC-1-boolit-lube-mold-sprue-lube

Randyrat is also a Cast Boolits vendor sponsor. Folks speak as highly of his Tac #1 and Tac #10 (X) and his ZIP lube, as they spoke of the Bullshop's - Bullplate sprue lube, Lotak, and Speed Green.

Failing that, if you really had your heart set on a bottle of Bullplate, NOE moulds ship with a small bottle of Bullplate included.

124063

And the Bullshop's contact information has been posted more than a few times in other threads. You could always write them and/or send a money order to purchase a bottle of Bullplate.


Yes, we are still in business - at this time we are unable to get a phone or internet - so I have to check the emails/PMS from town - once to twice a week (depending on if I get to town)

anyone can send an order to
The Bull Shop
PO Box 240030
Dell, MT 59724

or email link at bottom of page

thanks, Tina - BS Mom

sorry for the inconveniences!

and



Daniel & Tina Congiolos
PO Box 240030
Dell., Mt 59724

Let him know we miss him Dearly. I wrote (*Bullshop*) Jr but no response

I have no affiliation to either of the vendors, and I'm not sure if its OK to post information about a banned vendor or not, however Bullshop was pretty much adored by all here at Cast Boolits, so in this case I don't think anyone will really mind. A moderator can edit my post if I have done something that I shouldn't have.



- Bullwolf

[Guido4198]

Well well,
That explains why I never heard back from them when I sent a PM request.
Sorry thy are gone from the forum. They seemed to be a source of good information and products for the .348 wcf.
I'm about done with the minimal, expensive and hard to find j-word offerings for this fine caliber, and rifle..(my M-71 Win.) and want to get serious about a cast bullet, about 250 gns or so...to hunt deer and hogs.

[btroj]

That Ester 100 AC oil from the auto parts store, like in Bullwolfs photo, is what I use now. It is good stuff, easy to get, and a bottle lasts forever.

[dtknowles]

Does NOE still ship the lube with their moulds? I don't remember getting any lube with my last mould.

Tim

[Springfield]

The ester oil smells bad, though, when put on a a hot mould. I'll stick with my Bullplate. Good thing I traded for 20 bottles of it a few years ago.

[dragon813gt]

Does NOE still ship the lube with their moulds? I don't remember getting any lube with my last mould.

Tim

It's an option like the top punch. I think it's $5 for the lube and allen wrenches.

[Echd]

It's an option like the top punch. I think it's $5 for the lube and allen wrenches.

It seems to come regardless most of the time, maybe I'm just lucky?

[mattw]

I would love to try bullplate, but can't seem to find where to get it.... help?

[DeputyDuke]

I would love to try bullplate, but can't seem to find where to get it.... help?

I save the bottles of synthetic two stroke oil that I use in my chain saw, Stihl Combi-tool, and Ice Auger. The little bit that drains from the bottle after mixing fuel lasts for years if you don't spill it. I keep some Q-tips near the casting area. I dip the Q-tip in the oil and wipe most of it back into the bottle. The tiniest amount does the job. Synthetic two stroke oil seems to work just like the Bull Plate lube I first bought years ago.

[toallmy]

Has anyone tried making speed green with synthetic 2 stroke in place of bull plate ?

[Springfield]

http://bullshop.freeforums.net/

[alamogunr]

I would love to try bullplate, but can't seem to find where to get it.... help?

Send me your address and I'll send you a bottle of the stuff that Miha includes with his molds. I've got a drawer full.

[diddlyv]

Was able to go to the Bull Shop website and used the email button told him wanted some of the lube and he could either tell me how to order or simply ship and invoice me on Pay Pal.
The response was original is $4 per Bottle the New with the micro moly or what ever is $5 asked what I wanted responded 2 of the new he sent message $10 for goods $5 for shipping and the email address to use to pay with pay pal pretty easy game actually much easier than finding an envelop stamp and $10 and $5 bill to mail him

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Has anyone tried making speed green with synthetic 2 stroke in place of bull plate ?
I have made a clone of Speed green.

Let me start by saying, I have used the real Speed green bought from Bullshop and while it works well during shooting, I didn't like it's stickiness and messiness during the lubsizing process as well as in the loading ammo process. I was told that a bit of Lanolin and JPW would reduce stickiness, so I added those to my clone recipe.

I used a amsoil product, that is PAO based, I do not know if Bullplate is PAO based or not?
But I learned that a PAO based oil is more slippery than oils that are not PAO based, and to avoid "flyers", you need to be careful not to use too much of a PAO based oil. I ended up using a lower percentage (20%) of amsoil in my clone recipe, than what Bullshop specifies for his oil in Speed green. I found the percentage I used, by trial and error.

This link should bring you to my post (Post #93)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?26524-Just-the-facts-Lube-recipes&p=1191534&viewfull=1#post1191534

Lastly, I will add that I much prefer SL68B than Speed green or my clone recipe.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?288713-SL68B-the-quot-all-around-quot-boolit-lube-and-how-to-make-it