lyman sprue plate problems?

[waco]

anyone else here have problems with your sprue plates on lyman not being countersunk enough?
break the sprue and it wants to stick on top of the plate?
ive had to take most of mine to work and countersink the holes quite a bit more to get the sprue to cut and fall of the mould the way it should.
anyone else have the same problems as me?
waco:confused:

[shotman]

if you take oil and put it on the plate with it open and "burn it" on that will stop the stick on the top. The Bullplate Lube works that way too but dont seem to stay as long. If you really want a good plate Have Buckshot make you one they are the best out there. I had him make one and I switch it from one to the other as needed rick

[Bret4207]

Standard practice for me is to dismount the sprue plate and flatten it on a stone or abrasive paper on glass. The take a Dremel cone type tool and very lightly turn the stone in the hole till a slight ridge forms on the backside. Mind you, you turn the stone WITH YOUR FINGERS!!! DO NOT use a Dremel tool to do this. Then you put the sprue pale back on the stone/glass and just remover the ridge. It should be knife sharp then and cut well. After that you lube it and secure the screw at the spot that works best.

[monadnock#5]

Yes, I bought several of the newer, heavier duty two cavity sprue plates several years ago, as well as a 4 cav 356421 mould where the distance between the bottom of the countersink and the bottom of the sprue plate is about 1/8". I haven't done the surgery yet, but they've all got a doctor's appointment in their future.

[leadeye]

I've had the same problem, countersinking seems to take care of it.