Is this an Ithaca Flues?

[mikenbarb]

Im not that familiar with Ithaca doubles and just got this one a couple days ago. Can anyone tell me if its a Hammerless or Flues because im clueless how to tell the difference. It just says Ithaca Gun Company, Ithaca N.Y. and its ser # is 4429xx making it the newer model. It needs to be restored but its a good solid shotgun and the bores are in great shape with no pitting and it has some discolored spots in the metal but it should clean up great. It has a checkered stock and forearm with a bird dog scene engraved in the sideplates. The barrels are atamped Made in USA and smokeless powder steel with other markings on the underside of the chambers that look to say "SB&Co T" or "BB&Co T". The best thing about it is that its never been messed with or altered and its all original still. Thanks, Mike
****More pics at bottom of page.****

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/mikenbarbj/001-38.jpg
http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/mikenbarbj/002-36.jpg

[elk hunter]

Mike,

Your Ithaca double is the "NEW ITHACA DOUBLE or NID model per the serial number. It was made in 1927 the year after the Flues was discontinued. The NID is very desirable as it can be fired with modern ammuniton. Ithaca states that the earlier Ithaca doubles, i.e. pre NID, should not be fired at all. The reason being the older doubles were not designed to handle the pressures generated by modern shotshells. I own and shoot several Ithaca doubles and predict you will enjoy yours.

Congratulations on a wonderful find.

[quack1]

Can't tell from your picture of the outside, need to look at the way the barrels lock up. The main difference between the Flues and New Ithaca Double was the NID had a rotary locking bolt and the Flues didn't. You might google Ithaca Flues and New Ithaca Double and be able to find pictures of the different locking mechanisms.

[scb]

Very nice NID. It appears to be one with cocking indicators.

[lastmanout]

I'm Think NID also. Flues have a very plain, flat reciever with a bird rolled engraved (lower grades). NID is stronger, no doubt.

[mikenbarb]

Yes, It has the cocking indicators and I guess I did good for 100 bucks?? Does anyone know a current value of these and if its worth restoring it or just keep as a shooter? And are there different grades and a way to tell what grade if so.

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/mikenbarbj/008-11.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/mikenbarbj/006-17.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/mikenbarbj/007-13.jpg

[scb]

I'll double your investment for ya, if ya want. :bigsmyl2: I haven't seen one sold in years (got away from the business). Back when I was working on this sort of thing it was not uncommon for a customer to invest $500 - 600 to restore one, so you've got to figure they're worth more than that. This was 8-10 years ago.

[elk hunter]

Mike,

If you do decide to restore, DO NOT let a gunsmith hot blue the barrels. The blueing salts will attack the soft solder that holds the ribs on. Many of the current crop of gunsmiths have little or no experience with early american doubles and can do great harm. Find someone that knows something about them.

I've turned down quite a few otherwise nice guns because hot blueing has caused the ribs to seperate from the barrels.

[scb]

Check these out http://www.gunsinternational.com/Ithaca-Shotguns-NID.cfm?cat_id=149

these are from a 1939 Stoeger's catalog
http://i487.photobucket.com/albums/rr236/scb2008/nid2.jpg
http://i487.photobucket.com/albums/rr236/scb2008/nid1.jpg

+1000 on the hot blue.

[mikenbarb]

Cool thanks and I would have had no idea it was worth so much. I have a great old book smitty down the street that does the old style blueing and also browning but he isn't cheap. I guess its well worth it to invest a few bucks in it and hold onto it for a while till the kids go to college. This is one of the two I bought and the other is in good shape and im gonna leave it alone to keep it 100% original.
Do all the NID's have the cocking indicators?

[scb]

Do all the NID's have the cocking indicators?
No later ones don't IIRC.

[pietro]

Since the serial number's the best way to differentiate between models, you have an early Field Grade NID.

The 223,000 Flues Model serial numbers run from 175,000 in 1908 to 398,365 in 1925.

The 45,000 NID serial numbers run from 425,000 to 470,099, and 500,000 to 501,011.

Only the early NID's had the cocking indicators on top of the action.

Higher grades ( 1 1/2, 2, 3, 4, 5, & 7) had commensurately higher amounts/styles of action engraving, with a Grade 7 also having gold inlays.

.