savage 111

[RICKGO1]

I have a Savage 111 7mm mag.I need to remove the barrel. I have a barrel nut wrench ,bar stock to slide in the action,to act as a action wrench, but could not brake the nut loose. Twisted the bar stock. Any ideas

[trappst]

buy an action wrench (Wheeler) from midway. it'll bust loose even the toughest ones

This is how I do mine:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/trappst/th_riflebuild019.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v284/trappst/?action=view&current=riflebuild019.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/trappst/th_riflebuild015.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v284/trappst/?action=view&current=riflebuild015.jpg)

[MtGun44]

It is easy to twist the action ouut of shape sticking a bar stock
in the action as a wrench !!

Bill

[RICKGO1]

I think I see how that works, but how long is the handle and does it come with it?

[trappst]

The handle is about 15" long and it does come with it. It's a stout piece!

My setup is kinda odd. I already had the barrel vice when I bought the action wrench. All the barrel vice does is hold things in place...kinda like an extra set of hands. The nuts are only hand tight.......A simple home made jobby could easily be made to hold things while you work.

The top on the action wrench has a cut out for the recoil lug so most if not all of the force is on that. It also has a threaded hole for placing a 1/4x28 bolt into the action to add extra support.

Oh, I always wrap a piece of tape (blue painters tape works fine) around the action to protect it from scratches.

If you're working on a blued action, they can be a PITA!!!! Something about the bluing process or sumpin' really makes 'em hard to get off. Never needed more than a little body weight to break one loose though.

[docone31]

This has me worried.
Savage headspaces by the barrel nut. I worry when someone uses bar stock within the magazine cut out on the reciever.
If I had read it wrong, definately pay no attention.
I just remember the first time I did that.
I lived.
The Savage system works pretty well in my opinion. Adds a lot of flexibility. Looks ungainly though.
I also use roof boots to buffer the jaws. I can cut several sheets of lead to fit in the jaws. And yes, some actions can be something. Especially older Mausers. I had to cut the barrel off, diamond grind out the threaded section of the chamber, slide out the pieces, chase the threads. Some of those can be a bear. One, when it broke loose, you could hear it across the building! It came loose with a definate BANG!. I tried heating, Long pipes in the wrench. On the other hand, Enfield SMLEs almost fall out.

[fordwannabe]

I don't mean to be a jerk but Savages do not head space with the nut. They headspace with the barrel threads and the receiver threads, the nut is there just to act as a jam nut and keep everything from moving. I have heard this many times and just don't want it to keep going round. I will now step off my soapbox and you may return to your regularly scheduled thread. Tom

[docone31]

You are right Tom!
Haveing a senior moment.
Never thought I would make it over 30......

[Buckshot]

................I don't know if the barstock was through the magazine cutout, or down through the broached lug raceways, into the front receiver ring. I've seen a couple action wrenches like that before.

................Buckshot

[StarMetal]

I did a 110 action. Having never done one before I gathered information about it. I called Savage and Savage gave me a phone number to a fellow in Florida who they said is really good on the older actions as Savage doesn't have anything to with older actions past a certain serial number. My initial question was what do you torque the nut too. Well I was scolded and schooled on that. They both told me you hand snug it with the wrench, then give the wrench a couple of whacks with a light plastic hammer...that's it. When I got my wrench the instructions said that if you're replacing a barrel and not intending to make it a switch barrel action to do it the same as just mentioned. It went on to say if you are intending it to be a switch barrel action then it gave a torque figure so you could switch barrels and have a more consistent tightening.

On your barrel I'd use a barrel vice and give the nut wrench a couple of light raps with a none marring hammer of some type.

To headspace you put your go gauge in the chamber and close the bolt (you should remove the extractor and ejector from the bolt first), then run your barrel down against the gauge (not real tight either), then tighten the nut. Then you replace the go gauge with a no go gauge and the bolt shouldn't close all the way.

Joe

[RICKGO1]

Buckshot has it right.The bar stock goes down the raceway to the frt receiver.Then clamp the bar stock in your vise, and use your barrel nut whench to turn the nut. It didnt work.Thanks all for your input

[StarMetal]

Maybe the barrel nut has been loctited.

Joe