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milltownhunter
03-25-2009, 08:02 AM
made some snake loads for the 44 mag with gas checks and shot between with 6.0 gr of red dot does anybody have a load for the 460 s&w ? i have a unported smith shoul be able to use alot of shot in the 460

Down South
03-25-2009, 08:28 AM
Wouldn’t be just about as cheap and easier to use the shot capsules for the .44? I’ve never made any snake loads so I can’t help with the 460 load even though I own a 460. I’d think that you could buy the capsules for .45 caliber and use a light charge of your favorite powder.

44man
03-25-2009, 09:14 AM
I only had 7-1/2 shot and made up a bunch for the .45. We have hundreds of carpenter bees so I went out to shoot a bunch. I never hit a single bee so I got out the .410 and smeared a bunch. Kind of expensive even with reloads! [smilie=1:
I usually use a flat stick and bat them when they get close, puts new meaning on skill. :mrgreen: Darn they are fast.
At real close range the .45 does OK so they should work for a snake. I suppose you could work up something for the .460 for more shot.
Where do I find the capsules for shot loads?

45 2.1
03-25-2009, 09:21 AM
Where do I find the capsules for shot loads?

Speer makes them........

oldhickory
03-25-2009, 10:36 AM
I just use a wad punch and make wads out of cardboard. 5gr. of Bullseye, a card wad, shot, another card wad, crimp and you're done.

As for carpenter bees...It's fun to launch them with a blank charge from a muzzle loader![smilie=f:

Down South
03-25-2009, 02:04 PM
I usually use a flat stick and bat them when they get close, puts new meaning on skill. Darn they are fast.
I have what I call, my bee bat. It’s made of a 3” wide board about 3 feet long with a handle whittled on the end. The handle is wrapped with friction tape. I’ve killed many bees with it through the years. I’ve done the 410 trick a few times too. I’ve got a judge that shoots the 2-1/2 shot shells but the bees have to be fairly close. I got mad at a few high fliers once and broke the 12 gauge out. I was using trap loads but it worked well on the bees.


Here is a link for the 45 shot capsules. You might be able to find them cheaper somewhere else. I've even seen them on Flebay before.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=682652&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=652

On edit, since my curiosity has been aroused I checked Fleabay. There are some 44 capsules up for bid now. just search for shot capsules.

OBXPilgrim
03-25-2009, 05:36 PM
As for carpenter bees...[smilie=f:

Ahh, Yes. Just about that time of year

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=30536

Down South
03-25-2009, 08:26 PM
I've already batted a dozen or so at home this year already. If I was at home more it would have been a lot more. The dang things try to bore my house down every year. I might just get the 410 and 12 gauge back out again.

JW6108
03-25-2009, 10:15 PM
I could tell you how to have fun with carpenter bees, but I would be called a liar.

P.S.: It involves a BB gun.

anachronism
03-25-2009, 10:34 PM
You could use a gascheck for the top wad. You might want to swage it down in your sizer to make it fit in the case better. For that matter, you could sandwich the shot between an upper & lower gascheck. See if you can get your hands on any #12 shot. This stuff should really shred the bees.

Mumblypeg
03-25-2009, 11:22 PM
I could tell you how to have fun with carpenter bees, but I would be called a liar.

P.S.: It involves a BB gun.

No you won't. Took the first bee of the season just yesterday with mine. Silver BB to the head knocked him out. Rained today, they wouldn't come out to play.
Not long ago there was a long discussion on this very subject.

Dale53
03-27-2009, 11:53 AM
anachronism's suggestion to use #12 shot is RIGHT ON! You won't believe how much more effective your "snake loads" will be just by using #12 shot. Shot is still pretty dern expensive and it is made worse by having to mail order. However, a ten lb bag of #12 shot will make a lot of "snake loads".

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/products.asp?dept=68

Scroll down for #12. It costs $29.95 for ten lbs plus $11.99 for shipping. However, you can ship up to fifty pounds for the same price. To help cut shipping, you might get a few friends together for a local "group buy" and at least save on shipping. Keep in mind that 10 lbs is about a life time supply...

Dale53

flounderman
03-27-2009, 12:48 PM
I made some snake loads for the .357, using a gas check over the powder and another over the shot. full charge of unique, I believe it was. I think 7 1/2 or 8 shot was the smallest I had. A snake doesn't even twitch when he is hit with it. if you can get close enough, just a primer will shoot fire out the muzzle. probably work better with the flash hole drilled like for wax bullets. at close range would low the wings off a bee and no collateral damage.

Dale53
03-28-2009, 12:44 AM
Snakes close enough to trouble you are no great trick to shoot with regular bulleted cartridges. However, the rub comes in when you are on rocky ground. You just might get a bullet back in your face. In my area, most poisonous snakes inhabit rocky ground. Hence, the great desire for a GOOD, effective snake load. I use the Speer shot capsules in .38/.357, .44, and .45 Colt. When loaded with #12 shot they ARE good. However, I am out of #12:confused:.

Just to clarify, I am not one to kill even poisonous snakes at random. However, when they are around inhabited dwellings, they HAVE to GO! I have let many a poisonous snake alone in "outback" areas as long as they do not bother me...

Guess I'll have to talk to a friend or two and order some #12 shot out.

Dale53

August
03-28-2009, 05:20 AM
Around here, most folks use regular loads -- with bullets -- as their carry loads for snakes. Rattle snakes are good guys and keep those damned mice and pack rats under control. So, unless they're someplace where dogs, kids, or lots of people might travel, we leave 'em alone. Of course, in the Southwest, you learn to look before putting your clodhoppers down somewhere.

jawjaboy
03-28-2009, 06:32 AM
Snake Stopper

http://www.gunblast.com/Snake_Stopper.htm

.

Junior1942
03-28-2009, 07:56 AM
Here's my version for 44 mag: http://www.castbullet.com/reload/44shot.htm

Note: shot less than size #11 or #12 won't work well due to the holes in the pattern. A snake shot with my #11 loads dies instantly.

sundog
03-28-2009, 08:11 AM
Junior, your loads work very well on wood bees, also. Now that is some really fun shooting! Gotta be careful what direction yer shootin' though or you'll have shot bouncin' back atcha off the steel siding on the barn...

Junior1942
03-28-2009, 08:34 AM
Sundog, shot will even bounce back from a tree trunk. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!

DanWalker
03-28-2009, 11:23 AM
Try this for those pesky carpenter bees. ABSOLUTELY the most fun you can have with an airgun.
http://bugblaster.net/
I use mine on a crossman pistol and can even shoot bugs off the windows and white interior walls of my house, with zero mess.

DanWalker
03-28-2009, 11:55 AM
I've killed a few snakes with handloaded shot capsules in my 45BH. I use 7 1/2 shot because I get it for free from a friend who reloads lots of trap loads.
I've also killed a cottontail on accident with one at about 15 yards. I forgot I had loaded a snake shot load to come under the hammer on the first shot, and that's what I hit him with when I spotted him sitting under a sagebrush. He just squealed and flopped a couple times and was dead. Not an ideal rabbit load, but it sure chews up the prairie rattlers. I'll have a cylinder full of them when we go out snake hunting next month.
I just load a speer shot capsule full of 7 1/2 shot over 6.5 grains of RED DOT. Works fine for me.

rmaster14145
03-30-2009, 11:01 PM
i make mine like this.

first i cut some "wads" from styrofaom plate.

prime the brass, drop in the powder charge. insert the wad on top of the powder. then fill up the case with shot. i like #9 shot. then top the brass off with another wad. then use plain ole elmers paper glue to hold the top on. simple , cheap, effective.

rm

Dorf
03-31-2009, 04:42 PM
Question: Has anyone ever tried making them by trimming .357 MAXIMUM brass down short enough to fit a standard .357 Magnum cylinder? Seems like it would give about 5/16" more case capacity -- with #12 shot they ought to be real "daily cutters". Inquiring minds want to know! :roll:

Alchemist
03-31-2009, 09:32 PM
You could use a gascheck for the top wad. You might want to swage it down in your sizer to make it fit in the case better. For that matter, you could sandwich the shot between an upper & lower gascheck. See if you can get your hands on any #12 shot. This stuff should really shred the bees.


#12 is available at Midway, but be prepared for sticker stock.....

Chunky Monkey
03-31-2009, 09:54 PM
I worked up a load last summer for my Ruger P345 (45 acp). I just carried an extra mag with a few loaded in it. The shoot extract and feed great. Using 45 Win Mag brass I load #8 shot (about 140 gr) over a cardboard (tablet back) wad over 6.0 gr of Bullseye. Before crimping I top off with a wad cut from a clear plastic water bottle. Then crimp with the blank crimp die! I just bought an XD 45 tactical and tried a few the other day they work well.

Worked this up cause the only other handgun I have that would be a good snake killer is the super redhawk 9 1/2" 44 mag and that things to damn big to carry around.

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee267/Metzy84/Snakeshot/100_1430.jpg

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee267/Metzy84/Snakeshot/100_1438.jpg

Dale53
04-01-2009, 12:04 AM
Ballistic Products have #12 shot a lot cheaper than Midway:

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=02612

Dale53

GP100man
04-02-2009, 08:30 AM
Dorf

no need to trim max brass just anneal it & size in a 222 die to the shoulder roll then add powder & shot then card it & use the shoulder to apply a little roll crimp. i use waterproof carpenters glue to seal with
in my GPs it works ,oh i forgot about the smiffs shorter cyl. they`ll have to be trimmed but it`ll still hold close to twice the shot you can get in a blue capsule!!!

GP100man :cbpour:

Rodfac
04-02-2009, 09:21 AM
I've used Win 231 for snake loads for years finally deciding on a charge of 4.0 gr in .38 Spl. or .357 loads. Primers are normal looking but you can check the manuals for an appropriate charge for the weight of the shot. This gives them some smack for up close work...20 ft or less with #12 shot. Shot which is larger produce patterns too thin unless you get really close, defeating the purpose of the load. I've used them in .38 Special, .357, and .44 Special. Used for their purpose, at most, six or eight at a time for testing, they don't lead up a barrel much and a few full house jacketed rounds seem to push most of it out.

Like the majority here, I too had problems finding an easy effective wad mat'l. I tried cardboard from shirt laundry stiffeners, milk cartons and some others but found the solution with coffee can tops...the plastic variety. They're easy to cut with the case itself.

At first I used empty cases with the primer hole drilled out to allow a nail to pop the cut wad out. Later I dispensed with that and found the FINAL SOLUTION!

Sitting a primed and powdered case on its base, mouth up on the anvil portion of my shop vise, I lay a coffee can lid on the top. Using a small block of wood, with the end grain down over it, I LIGHTLY tap the block with a small hammer and voila...a perfect wad already to be pushed down on the powder charge. I pierce the wad with an awl to allow air to escape more easily, then seat it fully on the powder using a #2 pencil...the eraser end. I seat a 2nd wad on top of the first, again piercing it with an awl to allow air to escape. Using the block's end grain helps to keep case mouths from buckling if you get too energetic and soft pine or cherry blocks work better than oak or hickory.

Picking up the powdered and 'wadded' case, I use it to scoop the #12 shot out of a shallow dish, dumping a little off from full to the brim. This will allow another wad to be tapped/seated on top. The case is then fed into my press allowing the crimp shoulder of the seating die to crimp. The crimp doesn't have to be heavy, just enuf to secure the wad. I' ve found over the years, that the top wad loosens in my pocket from time to time, so I now glue it in place using crazy glue, or Testor's model airplane enamel. I color code them for the strength of the load. Red for hot snake loads, and white for 'noise makers'.

Patterning depends on the gun. My wife's .38 special with 3" barrel shoots snake killing patterns out to 12-15'. That's far enough and also works well with starlings on the deck rafters and in the barn. I tested mine with beer cans at 10' for penetration. Two snakes have fallen to them and didn't crawl off when hit.

These loads are easy to make and safe to use if you use a little discretion. I've never had a pellet bounce back at me but it could happen. The loading procedure sounds scary but works well and makes sense if you remember that all lever action rifles slap one cartridge against another in the tubular magazine during recoil, some with considerable force....ie. .44 Magnum and .45-70. Of course, the surface of your vise when cutting and seating the wads should be dead flat!

HTH's Rodfac

One final comment....I've had the plastic bottom wads from the Speer capsules bounce back and hit me from 10' when shot at a vertically mounted target board. Not a fun time...wear your glasses!

Dorf
04-03-2009, 08:20 AM
GP100Man: Thx for the info. I don't have a set of .222 dies handy (at the moment) and am using a Taurus "snubbie" that has a semi-short cylinder, so I guess that I'm stuck with trimming the Maxi brass. However, what you have is a very neat soultion to increasing the "payload".

Rodfac: Thx for another neat idea. The bit about "hammering" on a primed and loaded case isn't so scary when you consider how we used to reprime cases when we used the old original Lee Loaders. ;)

Thx to all, Stan

BrianB
04-17-2009, 09:10 PM
I have used the Snake Stopper load that is written about on Gunblast Magazine in a .38 special and it really is a good load. I'm sure you could do about the same thing in the .460. With all that case space, I bet it will work fantastic. BTW, as warned earlier, wear glasses if shooting into anything solid, the shot WILL ricochet and it WILL find you. Trust me.

Rodfac
04-19-2009, 08:45 PM
Dorf...if you're still reading this...I've had good luck with my snake loads. It does take a good powder charge to get the penetration where you'd like it. #12 shot is pretty small, but it fills the pattern nicely. I've never tried a mix...ie. #9 and #12 mixed, the size 12 filling in the spaces between the 9's. Just a thought...either way it still beats trying to hit 'em with a single bullet, especially if worked up...like when you nearly step on them. Regards, Rodfac