Lyman mould trouble

[SAJTU]

Ok guys, any suggestions before I send the mould back to Lyman. Recently purchased a new 311359, 115 gr grain 30 M1 mould. Nice flat faces and no light visible between the blocks. When I mounted the mould in my Lyman handles, it will not close w/o a significant angled gap from top to bottom on the faces. I tried it in all three sets of Lyman handles I have and it occurres on all three sets. I even fliped the mould both ways on the Lyman handles and as a last resort, tried some Lee 6 cavity handles...the new mould wouldn't work w/o the gap in any position or on any handle. I thought it might have a small burr on the mould handle slot so touched up the edges with a Swiss file....pins look good as well. None of this helps so it appears one of the handle slots may be milled slightly out of spec. First time I've ever encountered this sort of problem on a Lyman mould. Any ideas on a fix or am I missing something here. I was really wanting to cast a few carbine boolits this weekend.

Thanks!

[Bret4207]

Well, first off, the 311359 is a 32-20 boolit, designed long before the 30 Carbine was even a glimmer in Ol' Carbine Williams eye, or whoever designed the round. It's not important, but I thought you'd like to know.

On your mould, do the bolts appear to be straight up and down and at right angles to the mould body? It sounds like maybe they aren't from what you say. I'd call Lyman and see what they say.

[Newboy]

When I had a similar issue, it was because the ends of the handles were preventing the mold blocks from swiveling enough to close. I had to file some off of the offending corners on the handles.

[beagle]

I had a set of handles that kept a set of Lyman blocks from closing. A little Dremeling on the handles fixed it./beagle

[SAJTU]

The mould looks square enough but one block has some milling chatter at the bottom. Not sure it's any handle problem as they work well with all my other Lyman moulds. I'll probably do a little measuring and call Lyman on Monday if I figure out it's the mould. BTW, I didn't know that was a 32-20 design but the pointed bullet design now makes a little more sense. Thanks for all the suggestions!