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RICKGO1
03-20-2009, 01:07 AM
I have been casting for a long time and now feel the urge to try swaging. What do I need to get started and about how many $ ???

BT Sniper
03-20-2009, 01:24 AM
Hello from another NW native,

You allready have the gear to cast lead for cores, so check what kind of bullet you want to make. If pistol bullets I recamend CH tool and die co. for the swage 2 die set. $130

A strong reloading press will work fine. Rock chucker, big boss, lee clasic cast iron, etc.

Some jackets, wether it be factory bought or be origanal and use pistol brass (lots of info here). Lots of pure lead.

That may just get you started. It dosent have to cost alot. It is like anything else, you can spend as little or as much as you like and still make the same shootable bullets.

I started with nothing, had to buy new press because I broke all my weak ones and have less then $500 in to the hobby.

All the info you need as far as recamendations and directions can be found on the sight. Just do alittle research.

Good Luck,

Brian

7of7
03-20-2009, 08:43 AM
I went with Corbins equipment, and spent quite a bit. I invested about 1500.00 in my setup. New press, 3 die set, jackets (500), lead wire, lead wire cutter.....
I am in the Lynnwood area... good to see another northwesterner..... from close to my area...

CSP-1 S-Press.......... $598
FJFB-3-S .308 flat base open tip 3 die swage set... $587
CSL-2 swage lube... $8
LW-10 lead wire .247 diam... $35
PCS-1 precision core cutter .247... $69.50
J-30-125 308 bullet jackets, pk/250... $35
ET-2-S precision jacket trim die set ..... $265

I do need a point forming die though,.... they are $179.00

Corbins shop is not automated, as in I did not see any CNC equipment or anything more automated tan a turret lathe... They do have a backlog of orders too...

RICKGO1
03-20-2009, 10:36 AM
1500.00 is a lot of money. Is that for one cal? How much more to change cal.

BT Sniper
03-20-2009, 02:39 PM
7 has a very good set up and will be able to make some very good rifle bullets. To my knowledge pistol bullets are not as complicated and therefor can be made at a more reasonable price.

Seriously, if your interested in making pistol bulets check out CH Tool and Die co. web sight.
I would bet you could be making bullets for under a $200 investment.

For making rifle bullets though unless you can make your own dies it is probably cheeper to buy them factory.

Keep studing the sight, the answers are out there. (sounds like a line from a movie)

RICKGO1
03-20-2009, 03:27 PM
thanks BT. I went to CH tool and it looks very interesting. I think I would need a new press because I have RCBS JR . The way the guys talk here it won't work .

BT Sniper
03-20-2009, 03:36 PM
Probably would be wise to get a stronger press.

Your initial investment can still be resonable and will not take long to get money back.

Its alot of fun too.

Like I said keep searching, the awsers are out there.

7of7
03-21-2009, 02:43 AM
1500.00 is a lot of money. Is that for one cal? How much more to change cal.

To be able to make a different caliber, it would take a 3 or 4 die set, + jackets and the correct diameter lead wire.. After using the jacket trim die, I definately would recomend that to anyone who is going to trim jackets....

The way Dave makes the core swage die, it will extrude lead wire, the amount depends upon how much over the weight you cut the lead wire,.... Once adjusted, it makes short work of getting all the component weight correct for the end product weight...

RICKGO1
03-21-2009, 11:37 AM
Thanks 7 of 7.With each post I learn a little bit more.Now I think that I will get started with one pistol cal. Use wire to start with,buy ready made jackets.I think

ETG
03-22-2009, 08:13 PM
Hi RICKG01,
I too am new here. I was wanting to make 223 bullets out of 22LR cases. With the info on here I have made the dies for the jackets and the lead wire extruder for under $100. I went to the scrap yard and bought some lead!!!!!!! Fifty cents a pound sounds cheap but man does it add up quickly! I had over $50 in short order with just a dozen roof vent flashings. Weird thing was they were obviously brand new so you know someone stole them!!! I guess ethics of (and consequences of)scrap dealers is the topic of another forum.

7of7
03-23-2009, 12:09 AM
Hi RICKG01,
I too am new here. I was wanting to make 223 bullets out of 22LR cases. With the info on here I have made the dies for the jackets and the lead wire extruder for under $100. I went to the scrap yard and bought some lead!!!!!!! Fifty cents a pound sounds cheap but man does it add up quickly! I had over $50 in short order with just a dozen roof vent flashings. Weird thing was they were obviously brand new so you know someone stole them!!! I guess ethics of (and consequences of)scrap dealers is the topic of another forum.

I called around here, and found a bout the same price,.... except I would have to buy a box / bin,.... about 1500 to 2000 lbs....
If I get an extruder figured out, I may just do that....

ETG
03-23-2009, 12:49 AM
Luckily this place sold me small quantities - I saw bins of fired brass so I will doing some more checking. The one box I saw seemed to be 38 but I did see some 556 and 308 laying around on the ground - now that I would be happy to pay scrap prices for!!! The extruder I made is a 1" diameter by 8" - would take a whale of a long time to squirt 1500 lbs when I use 7/8" x 1 1/2" slugs in it!!!! At that it is dang near maxing my 20 ton press out - using anhydrous lanolin and caster oil to lube the sides of the lead slugs. How long ago did you call - business in scrap is way down here.

7of7
03-23-2009, 08:37 AM
ETG, I called in late February.
I may have to just buy the Corbins set, and make an adapter for a press,... I can pick up a table top 6 ton press for about 80 bucks,... I also thought about a 10 ton portapower tool, an making a press out of that...
How did you make your dies?
The Corbin die set uses 3/4 X 4" billets, and includes the mold for the billets...

ETG
03-23-2009, 12:33 PM
I ordered a piece of 1 1/2" x 1/4" DOM pipe. I had a piece of steel that was 4" x 2" and 1" thick. Drilled a hole through that plate and tapped it for 3/4" (that was the biggest tap I had. Welded the DOM over the hole and I had a picec of 1 1/4" round bar that I turned about an inch and a half piece so that I could barely fit the DOM over. To keep the drag down I didn't want a tight fit the full length. Next I cut a piece of 3/4" all thread and drilled and reamed it to 3/16 and counterbored it with a 1/4" drill. I have a 20 ton Harbor Freight press with air over hydralic and it takes that thing pretty well loaded up to get the lead started. Once the lead has been extruded I unscrew the all thread orifice, turn it over and push the piston out with a 1/2" steel rod. I haven't had problems with lead bleeding past the piston.

ETG
03-23-2009, 12:49 PM
For the die to straighten out the 22 rims I ordered 7/8 all-thread, drill bushings, and hardened dowell pins from McMaster Car. I tapered the opening of the drill bushing with a carbide counter sink bit. I drilled a 1/4" hole through a 2" piece of the all-thread and then counter sunk the drill bushing (I used the press fit ones with a head) To keep the bushing from pulling out I fit a washer on top of the drill bushing and welded it to the all thread. Someone on this board posted the instructions for using a 5mm dowell and making a base to fit in a normal press which is what I followed for that.

pelallito
03-23-2009, 02:40 PM
I believe it was Cris that posted the instructions. I am following in both f your footsteps. I had a pump shaft that was about 1 1/4" that I turned down to 7/8" and threaded it to 14TPI most of the way. I left the top larger and was in the process knurling it when I had to stop. The shaft was drilled and tapped for 5/8"-18 if I remember right. That is on top where I knurled. I will make an internal plug to match and am waiting for my bushings to arrive.
Thanks for the tip about the Carbide countersink. I will get one. I had planned to use a grinding stone as he did.

ETG
03-23-2009, 04:04 PM
I just burned through the grinding stones with little to no luck. The carbide countersink made short work of it. As far as the molds I used two pieces of 1 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock. Placed them together - used a couple of 1/8" dowels to keep them aligned and bored a 7/8" hole and then smothed the bottom out with an endmill. A cheap pair of welding pliers holds them together and I had a four cavity mold. It just seemed easier to drill four shorter cavities then one longer one. Just drop four slugs in instead of one long one.

pelallito
03-24-2009, 08:17 AM
ETG,
I almost ordered 7/8 all thread, but I had the steel shaft here. I finished the knurling yesterday and will finish the cavity for the die after I have it in my hands to double check the measurement.
Cobalt countersink might work a little better then carbide. I will talk to my local tool supplier and ask. In the ENCO catalog they mention Cobalt and high tensile steel together. They are about the same price. I want to make the plug to hold the die in next.
How much polishing did you do after cutting the chamfer with the CS?
Thanks for the help.
Fred

ETG
03-24-2009, 01:03 PM
Not sure I would try cobalt. I first tried a cobalt ball nosed endmill and it looked like it was just going to burn it up without cutting. I got the counter sink I used from McMaster Car:
"Part # 43035A98 - 1/4" Shank Single Cut Carbide Bur 90 Degree Cone, 1/2" Head Dia, 1/4" L of Cut. In stock at $15.67 Each" I ordered the drill bushings from them as well as the all-thread. I just eased off the pressure and kept the cutting oil on it (this was in a lathe) and it came out with a mirror finish. I was thinking about trying another using a 60 degree cone. Unless I anneal the cases I do have quite a few punch through the bottom. One thing with using the 7/8" all thread is that it doesn't take a lot of time to make different ones. Wish I could have found the specs for the best taper - but heck, if it works I guess that is what matters.

pelallito
03-24-2009, 01:25 PM
Until I read your last post I thought that you had used a carbide CS not a burr. I had not looked in their catalog, but this is what I was thinking about-
http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=1565j2
Thanks to your explanation I found out more about Cs's and what materials they work well with. Apparently coated carbide works best on hardened steel, but is a little more expensive.
I will think about which one to order. You had such good result with yours, that I can't argue with success.

ETG
03-24-2009, 04:20 PM
I was wondering if my use of CS might have confused. That is why I listed the part number of the burr. I think I got the good results because the burr has so many cutting blades vs 1 or 3 on most CS. Those drill bushings are VERY hard.

pelallito
03-24-2009, 05:20 PM
I am looking forward to finding out how hard they are.:groner: I bet it will be a learning experience, to put it lightly.[smilie=1:

ETG
03-24-2009, 05:38 PM
I bought 1 of the removable bushings that was 1/2". I couldn't get it to stay in the all-thread so I turned it down on the outside to recess the whole bushing - broke three 1/2" carbide bits doing that. When I tried that burr to champher the inside rim I was pleasantly surprised.

pelallito
03-25-2009, 08:10 AM
Since I am copying the one Cris made, the plug will hold the bushing in the 7/8 body. I will get the bushing today or tomorrow along with the CS. How tall was your bushing? I ordered a 1/2" tall bushing and have wondered if I should have asked for a 3/4" tall one.
Sorry to hear about the three carbide bits breaking.

ETG
03-25-2009, 04:23 PM
I bought one removable bushing that was 1/2" long and 1/2" in diameter - the head is 1/4" thick (3/4" overall). That one I actually counterbored the top to narrow the actual sizing length. The press fit one was 3/8" diameter and 1/2" long and the head is 3/32" thick (.594" overall) I think you will be fine with the 1/2". I actually wish I had gone with the 1/2" diameter x 1/2" length and no head.

pelallito
03-25-2009, 04:46 PM
Thank you ETG for the help.
Fred

barryjyoung
06-08-2009, 12:31 PM
My first post:

Hello 7of 7. I am in Tacoma and see that you are in Lynnwood. I will be ordering almost exactly the same stuff that you got from Corbin very soon. I have a couple of questions. How long did it take for you to receive your order from Corbin and where did you find lead around Puget Sound? Why did you go with David Corbins CSP-1 press rather than Richard Corbins Walnut Hill press?

Hello BT Sniper:
I will also be ordering some pistol swaging dies from CH4D. Do you know how long they take to fill orders? I am terribly impatient.

Hello Everyone Else: I am a Journeyman Machinist who teaches Machine Technology at a technical College. I have a CNC mill and engine lathe at home. I will be building a lead extrusion press, a bullet swaging press, swaging dies and eventually my a rail gun. I have been reading this forum and everything else I can find for months and just want to thank each and every one of you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience.

Barry

scrapcan
06-08-2009, 05:37 PM
Barry,

Welcome to the board. Be careful as we all maybe trying to getyou to make swaging dies that we can afford.

BT Sniper
06-08-2009, 06:24 PM
Barry,

It seemed pretty quick to get the dies from CH. As I remember ordered one week recieved the next. Can't imagine they would be out of stock as I was told swage dies are a very small percent of their buisness. They are alot busier this year then last when I ordered though.

Alot of good info and good guys here. Feel free to contribute and be sure and take some pics of your projects to share.

BT

7of7
06-08-2009, 08:09 PM
Barry,
My dad lives in southwestern Oregon, so I just stopped by Corbins shop. I went with his CSP1 press, and 30 cal dies. I have ordered some stuff from him since, and it hasn't taken to long to get the items. The biggest thing that takes the time is getting used to the terminology so he isn't asking questions to verify what it is you want. That lead to delay as he clarified what I ordered... Normally, it really wasn't exactly what I wanted, and he has even suggested not to buy certain items as they would duplicate items I had...
As far as lead, inexpensive,... I have found a place, but you have to buy a ton in order to get a very good price... (litterally, a ton) I have found a place in wisconsin that extrudes lead wire, and it is a fair price. 50 lb of wire delivered for 110.00..
I have an old craftsman atlas lathe, but I am not sure of the materials I should be using for die making... Not to mention, getting the precision down...
Whenever you feel like coming up to Lynnwood, feel free to stop by!!
I also have been looking at making extruding dies. Just not to sure on what materials I should use...
Anthony

Sixgun Symphony
06-10-2009, 03:08 AM
Where did you find lead around Puget Sound?



I have been overseas for awhile, but there are two metal scrapyards in Maple Valley and for years one of them had a sign listing scrap lead for twenty five cents a pound.

I am sure that the price has gone up since I been away, I am not sure if they're still there, but it's worth checking out.

barryjyoung
06-10-2009, 11:30 AM
Thank you for the warning manleyjt:

No need to worry. I would downright frighten anybody who needed my services with what I charge for shop rate. Mr David Corbin works cheap as near as I can tell and his brother Richard is basically giving stuff away. So I don't think will be a problem.

Thank you.

Barry


Barry,

Welcome to the board. Be careful as we all maybe trying to getyou to make swaging dies that we can afford.

barryjyoung
06-10-2009, 11:45 AM
BT Sniper: I have read of so many folks waiting months for equipment. It is good to hear that CH4D is fast. Thank you.

7of7: I will be buying a CSP-1 press from Corbin when the old tax return ambles on down the trail in mid September. It sounds like they had the stuff you wanted in stock. That is also great news. I will take a ton of lead. It would take me four trips in my Dakota pickup, but I would love to have 2000 pounds of lead waiting for me to make it into wire. I also enjoy casting, so that much lead should last me a while. Is this pure lead or scrap? I have a friend who lives in Edmonds, if I go see him, I will stop by. Let me know when you are free to come by for a BBQ.

Sixgun Symphony: Thank you, looks like 7of7 has a good source. I looked up Maple Valley scrap yards online and found nothing. Boeing Surplus in Kent is done as is Pacific Industrial Supply in Seattle. Maybe the scrap yards in Maple Valley also quit? Thanks for answering.

Barry

Jim_Fleming
06-11-2009, 05:47 AM
7of7

Would it be too much to ask, for you to post the Wisconsin extruding source? I'd like to perhaps jump on that source too, soon...

I've read most of this thread and I like what I see in here and on the rest of this board! :)

Thanks and Take Care,

Jim




As far as lead, inexpensive,... I have found a place, but you have to buy a ton in order to get a very good price... (litterally, a ton) I have found a place in wisconsin that extrudes lead wire, and it is a fair price. 50 lb of wire delivered for 110.00..

Sixgun Symphony
06-11-2009, 06:52 PM
That is definately bad news. I suppose its the bad economy.