finished the auto annealer today

[jmorris]

It now has a case feeder.

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/

Is the link to the album complete with videos and photos. The first video should answer the question, does the base of the case get too hot.


http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/DSC01810.jpg

[colbyjack]

sweet

[scrapcan]

I agree with Colby, That is just nicely done.

[kir_kenix]

That is awsome. Good work.

[mike in co]

looks like the one SOMEGUY has posted on benchrest central......

[j20owner]

Very nice setup. Personally, I think you're doing good on the heating. I have some FNM 7.5 ammo that still has the annealling visible on the case.(Hasn't been polished off). It looks very close to what you show in your vid. If you can pick it up that soon after heating and it isn't hot on your fingers, I'd say you're doing good.

BTW, looks like a lot more engineering went into that than anything I could ever accomplish.

So, what are you going to be selling them for, short of the case feeder?[smilie=1:

[AZ Pete]

very creative.

[jmorris]

The base machine is a copy of a brassomatic, at least as close as I could get from a photo. The case feeding bit I came up with. I don’t plan on building any but for the do it your self types out there, I do have some of the CNC laser cut “saw blades” (the hard part) along with scale traces of the top plate with hole location, arms and drive wheel. I can send them anywhere in the US for $45 + $10.35 shipping

[j20owner]

Hmmmm. Too many projects, lol.

[OeldeWolf]

Turn this into a sticky in either special projects, or swapping and selling?

[TC66]

Hey jmorris since you are not going to build them I guess that means we all just send our brass to you for anealing Right? I only have 3000 308 Win casings. You should be able to knock those out no time flat. Probably should post your address here so we can all start shipping brass too you. :kidding: Or am I????

Really looks great!!!! Good Job!!!!

TC

[captaint]

Nice job! Color looks just right to me.

[jmorris]

My First sticky, I’m honored. Also thanks for the complements.


Hey jmorris since you are not going to build them I guess that means we all just send our brass to you for anealing Right? I only have 3000 308 Win casings. You should be able to knock those out no time flat. Probably should post your address here so we can all start shipping brass too you. Or am I????

Really looks great!!!! Good Job!!!!


Shipping would be very expensive but I'd do it. If you didn't add the case feeder part the machine is really a pretty simple build.

[GSPKurt]

That's amazing. I have trouble using my electric can opener.

[Doc_Stihl]

I'm impressed.

[9th]

Nice job!

PM sent

[pjh421]

I've cleared out the neighbors on either side of my house so jmorris and Glen Fryxell can move right in.

Paul

[jmorris]

Here is a video sent to me of one built from one of the "blades" and drawings.

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/?action=view&current=borganneal.flv

[Three44s]

Truely first rate!!

Three 44s

[largecaliberman]

Just a thought..........
How about using this same machine to heat treat boolits. Adjust flame, speed, etc and drop the boolits into a bucket of water. Hmmmmmmmmmm.....just a thought.

[rvpilot76]

Just a thought..........
How about using this same machine to heat treat boolits. Adjust flame, speed, etc and drop the boolits into a bucket of water. Hmmmmmmmmmm.....just a thought.

Don't think that would work. The flame heat is too focused and localized. The heat needs to "soak" and normalize thoughout the boolit for the heat treatment to be uniform.

[hugh]

that is great I see or read something new here all the time tanks.

[cajun shooter]

You would have a machine full of melted lead!

[Dale53]

Definitely a pretty piece of work!

Thanks for sharing with us.

Dale53

[Just Duke]

Very well engineered Mr. Morris.

[jmorris]

I have a fresh batch of "blades" if anyone is interested in putting one together shoot me a pm.

[chuck...]

Have you considered a 4 second cycle instead of 8 seconds? Or did you use templaq ((700 deg or 750 deg) to decide on the cycle time?

cheers,
chuck...

[jmorris]

The cycle time depends on how the torches are adjusted and what brass is being annealed. It's always a little different.

[jonblack]

Boy, the ingenuity you see always amazes me. Great work! I may have to put one of these together "just cuz."

A router speed control from Harbor Freight would allow easy adjustment of the dwell time. Of course you would have to shorten the dwell time to begin with, then you could lengthen it by slowing down the motor.

I just so happen to have an extra mounting arm for my 650 case feeder. Hmm...thinking about doing this project just for fun...

jonblack

[jmorris]

I used a DC motor and a dimmer swtich for the dash lights on an old RX-7 for the speed control. If you are wanting to put one together I have about 10 of the blades left.

[saigafan2008]

Awesome job, Mr. Morris!

May I ask where you bought the motor?

Thanks,

Carl

[jmorris]

From Granger. The link to all of the step by step photos is in the first post.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/DSC01736.jpg

[gcollins]

Jmorris,
AWESOME!!!!! I have a couple of questions, how did you find out how long the brass needs to have heat???
Also, I don't kmow anything about the properties of Brass, but if those were made out of steel they would harden when dropped in water. So brass doesn't get harded with fast cooling??
Your machine is as I stated AWESOME design, and thanks for sharing.
Later
G

[jmorris]

Templaq, is the best method for knowing what temperature you are reaching.
http://www.markingpendepot.com/tempilstikstemperatureindicatormarkersavailableran gesfrom125degfto1600degf.aspx

The only thing that hardens brass is working it. The dunking in water you often read about is to make sure the base doesn’t get annealed. I don’t use water in my process as it is not necessary and would just add another step in the process to dry them off.

[gcollins]

Thanks J,
Like I said I didn't know anything about brass. Thanks for the link, I am trying learn what I need to know, I have just put toghter a AR in 243WSSM and i am told the WSSM brass doesn't do well if you don't anneal it before resizing.
Thanks
G

[No_1]

I really need to make me one of these.

Robert

[jmorris]

I still have some of the blades left.

[DCM]

Very nicely done and "full auto" once adjusted!

[.30/30 Guy]

I just ordered a blade. There are still some available.

[WilNsc]

Very creative, might have to duplicate one this spring.

[Circuit Rider]

Purchased the blade and scale from JMorris. Got started building it last weekend and finished up this afternoon. Not as nice as JMorris unit by any stretch of the imagination, but works great. Thanks for all the info John. Now want to figure how to do away with the bottles and go to a 20# tank. CR

[jmorris]

I cut the threded part off of two old propane tanks (I shot the tanks a few times from a distance so I knew I wasn't going to blow up) and welded a female 1/8" coupler so I could use steel brake line to the big tank. I gutted the torches of their regulators before screwing onto my homemade fitting.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/DSC01787.jpg

[Circuit Rider]

JMorris, thanks for the pics and info. Got the annealer operational today. CR

[jmorris]

Let's see it.

[Circuit Rider]

Spoke too soon! Works great with the small propane canisters, but have considerably less flame with it hooked up to a 20 pd. tank. Tried a new regulator, no flame. Will figure it out with time. CR

[jmorris]

I don't run a regulator on the 20# tank. You need full pressure at the torches.


http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/DSC01768.jpg

[Circuit Rider]

Thanks John, had wondered about that possibility but really unsure. As soon as my better half figures how to transfer pics from her cell to computer will post some. CR

[nanuk]

Just a thought..........
How about using this same machine to heat treat boolits. Adjust flame, speed, etc and drop the boolits into a bucket of water. Hmmmmmmmmmm.....just a thought.


Don't think that would work. The flame heat is too focused and localized. The heat needs to "soak" and normalize thoughout the boolit for the heat treatment to be uniform.


might work for "Annealing" a hardened boolit nose though...

[Pigslayer]

O.K. I really don't need any more projects. You guys a obsessed!!! LOL

[Longwood]

Just a thought..........
How about using this same machine to heat treat boolits. Adjust flame, speed, etc and drop the boolits into a bucket of water. Hmmmmmmmmmm.....just a thought.

Sure you can, you need to design and make a heat method that heated the bullets a lot slower so they don't melt. Heat guns may do the job.You can buy the element sections for special jobs like that.
I am thinking a cheap Lee case collator/feeder for cases and maybe a bullet feeder similar to theirs.

[evil5826]

Whats the average time the flame is held on the tip of the brass? Never found an exact answer on the net. Need to start annealing my 300 Win Mag brass. Cracks every two reloads if that.

[Longwood]

O.K. I really don't need any more projects. You guys a obsessed!!! LOL

It could be,,,
I just finished modifying a case operated attachment for a powder measure to work with a Little Dandy.
I also modified my red progressive press to work just like the 450 Dillon.[smilie=w:
You should see the El-cheapo, gang press I am playing with now.

[rasto]

I am planning to do one for me next year.
Right now I have a clear vision how to do it but lack of time :-(
The thing would be Giraud design ;-)

[Longwood]

If I could narrow them down until I am only doing one at a time, it would be a big help.

[jmorris]

Whats the average time the flame is held on the tip of the brass? Never found an exact answer on the net. Need to start annealing my 300 Win Mag brass. Cracks every two reloads if that. It should be set so it advances to the next case just before the flame turns from blue to orange.

[biggdawg]

Thanks Jmoris, just ordered my plate from him and have most of the stuff rounded up to make
my self one. less the case feeder for now will post up pics when i get it done. hope i can do half as good as you did.

would this work for a power supply on the dayton 2l009 motor?

Features & Specifications:

Adjustable outputs: 0-18V and 0-3A

Variable controls for both current and voltage outputs

Input voltage: 110V/60Hz and 220V/50Hz Switchable

Line regulation: CV <= 0.01% + 1 mV, CC <= 0.2% + 1 mA

Load Regulation: CV <= 0.01% + 3mV, CC <= 0.2% + 3 mA

Ripple noise: CV <= 0.5 mV RMS, CC <= 3 mA RMS

Protection: constant current and short-circuit protection

LCD reading accuracy: +/-1% for voltage and +/-2% for current

Environment: 0-40C, relative humidity < 90%

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/MASTECH-VARIABLE-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-0-18-V-0-3A-HY1803D-/06/!Bw)MbMwEWk~$(KGrHqYOKjgEwRZ79CPqBMKiLHt+Iw~~_12.J PG

[jmorris]

That should do the trick alright. I'm using a 12v transformer from an old answering machine and a dash light dimmer out of an '86 RX-7.

[biggdawg]

That should do the trick alright. I'm using a 12v transformer from an old answering machine and a dash light dimmer out of an '86 RX-7.


i am kind of anal so i wanted the digital read out.

got my power supply and motors along with other parts to build it so when the plate and plans arrive i will get it cranked out.

i am going to put a little motor under the case and spin it while it is in the flame hope my plan works out. we will see.

then if it all works i may try to put a case feeder on it.

[biggdawg]

I got my blade the other day from jm and i put a few hours in to fab. here are pics of the first mock up to see how things are going together.

i think things are coming a long nicely, going to have to figure out how to put some tension on the blade. i mounted it on a bearing and it moves a little too freely. Other than that i just have to make up the braces and get them welded to the legs then clean every thing up and give it a coat of paint drill and tap the cam arm and then fab up the case turner -- got another little motor that i am going to try to rig up so the cases will turn in the flame. will see how that goes.



http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-11200505.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-11201644.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-11201652.jpg

[jmorris]

Looks good. Might make a rub block that bolts below off the pillow block bolts and provide friction on the shaft.

[biggdawg]

Looks good. Might make a rub block that bolts below off the pillow block bolts and provide friction on the shaft.

that is what i was thinking, i have some plastic from old skidplates for snowmobiles so i am going to try that stuff.

thanks again for the help.

[biggdawg]

Well i worked on the case turning set up and learned quite a bit. then i bit the bullet and cut the holes and installed it on the build.

here is what i learned:

you have to have the motor set up adjustable unless you are going to only do one size case head. so what i did is made a jig bolted it to the bearing and used it to guide the drill bit as i slotted the mounting holes

i then just barely tightened the inside bolt –– you can't get to it with the plate on–– and i made my adjustments with the outboard screw. i do need to slot it a bit more so it will work a little better with 308 cases but it will do 223 base cases perfectly as you can see

in the video below. it also does grendel cases when i adjust the motor and it will do 308's but sometimes they move a little.

also it is best to have the drop out slot right after the case spin to avoid tipping cases getting back on to the plate.

you can watch a video here to see my first test run case turning test run video (http://youtu.be/l0OljbwB4n0)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-17201422.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-17201434.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-17204443.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-17204451.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-17204905.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-17204910.jpg

[biggdawg]

I decided to try my hand at making my hornady case feeder work on my annealer.

here is a short video of it in action Case feeder video (http://youtu.be/tHTuAcOEidI)


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-25232218.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-25232227.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-25232235.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-25232246.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-25232253.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-25232303.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/main%20album/2012-10-25232327.jpg

[jmorris]

Looks like it should work. What is the extra hole in the wheel for.

[biggdawg]

Looks like it should work. What is the extra hole in the wheel for.

that is for access to my adjustment screw for my case spin motor. when you change case head sizes you have to adjust the motor so they won't walk.

[biggdawg]

Here is a link to the video of it completed and painted running the first batch of 223

http://youtu.be/32gPHKWNtyw

[rbertalotto]

Absolutely fantastic!

[cdstang]

Its a work in progress. Waiting on some electrical components. Maybe Ill get it done soon.

http://i50.tinypic.com/1zc066t.jpg

[Dannix]

Has anyone ever considered marketing a kit for this?

[jmorris]

Sort of, I sell the "blade" with scale drawings of the top plate, torch arms and drive wheel, that the other guys here used to put theirs together. Some go the fast simple way and some like bigdawg go beyond what I originally built.

[Dannix]

Cool deal. Thanks jmorris. I don't have a welder nor the expertise though, so I would need a bolt-together type kit. Maybe someone enterprising will put one together someday.

I guess I could make it out of wood though.... Decisions, decisions.

[biggdawg]

Cool deal. Thanks jmorris. I don't have a welder nor the expertise though, so I would need a bolt-together type kit. Maybe someone enterprising will put one together someday.

I guess I could make it out of wood though.... Decisions, decisions.

there is at least one guy on ar15 that is making one out of wood.

he was posting in my thread over there and said he would post up pics.

[jmorris]

Cool deal. Thanks jmorris. I don't have a welder nor the expertise though, so I would need a bolt-together type kit. Maybe someone enterprising will put one together someday.


The brass o matic was basically the same thing as the base machine folks are putting together here, it cost $400. I could have the top plate CNC laser cut along with the blades and machine the torch arms and cut some all thread but at that point you would just sell a finished product.

Once I had my machine running I figured I would help other DIY types out with the hard part.

[.30/30 Guy]

Very basic unit made with a sheet metal top and some scrap wood.

[Dannix]

Thanks, all. It looks like the only two ready-to-buy ones I can across (KinetiX Precision (http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2010/10/forum-member-invents-new-compact-annealing-machine/) and Ken Light (http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html)) don't quite have the universality of the design on this thread. I'll keep this option in mine once I get into rifles. (I'm just shooting pistols right now.)

[jmorris]

If your just not a builder type, you might look at the griaud it's a tad cheaper than the ones your looking at.

[RLR350]

First post here. I was reading the thread and noticed some were looking to build a wood framed annealer. With the help of jmorris and BIGGDAWG through other forums I built one. Here is a short video of a test run. I wasn't going to do a case feeder, but am working on a cheap version and will try using the Lee collater as the foundation.

The decking is oak plywood with oak frames - dado'd and mitered. The aluminum slide plate under the blade is a modified mason's hawk. The other components are very similar to what has been posted. If anyone is interested I can post pictures of the build process later.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJUIYCjclXo

[biggdawg]

That turned out great. love the wood. makes it possible for more people to build their own.

good work and thanks for sharing




First post here. I was reading the thread and noticed some were looking to build a wood framed annealer. With the help of jmorris and BIGGDAWG through other forums I built one. Here is a short video of a test run. I wasn't going to do a case feeder, but am working on a cheap version and will try using the Lee collater as the foundation.

The decking is oak plywood with oak frames - dado'd and mitered. The aluminum slide plate under the blade is a modified mason's hawk. The other components are very similar to what has been posted. If anyone is interested I can post pictures of the build process later.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJUIYCjclXo

[jmorris]

Nice build, what is that you have for a power supply?

[686]

what motor did you use for the cast turner?

[RLR350]

what motor did you use for the cast turner?

The one in it now is a 30 rpm identical to this 200 rpm. The 30 spins a little slow and the 200 needs some type of speed control to slow it down. Fortunately for me, BIGGDAWG already tried everything, so I just used his parts list.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320916490243?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

This one looks promising, too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Gearbox-12V-Rated-Voltage-DC-Geared-Motor-200RPM-0-1A-/350655471216?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a4b1de70

Something like the 20.95 PWM speed control on this page was recommended so the speed on the case spin can be controlled independent of the blade speed. I have two and have tested them. They work good. Similar ones can be found cheaper. You can set the power at 12v and vary the speed of each motor. I'll install them as soon as I finish the case feeder.

http://store.qkits.com/category.cfm/DCMOTOR

[flstf_2000]

You guys are so cool. I am making an annealing machince now using a phono turntable. I'll post when I get it completed.

[mjs408]

How long do the gas bottles last?

[jmorris]

I use a 20# tank and it gets used up on a grill or heater before the annealer torches have a chance.

[RLR350]

jmorris: I missed your question about the power supply. It's just a variable power supply I picked up off ebay. I switched to a 12v/5amp power supply I got from Walmart for $15 (looks like a laptop computer cord). It's hooked to two switches and two PWM's so I can control the speed of each motor independently. Before I was doing it by lowering the voltage, but now they run at 12v each. Here is a new video of the completed project using a Lee collater. If you are interested I'll post some pictures as soon as I can get back into photobucket (the site is down). In the video the case spinner wasn't turned on until the second round hit the flame. No reason, I just forgot to turn it on.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHVFxUAwwtI

ETA: The case motor is a 200 rpm. The spinner plate is a .45 case gauge. It was probably spinning a little too fast in the video which causes some of the off centered spin. The white stuff on the cases was Tempilaq. The cases have been run through a few times for testing and will be discarded.

[jmorris]

If you are interested I'll post some pictures as soon as I can get back into photobucket
That would be great. Could you also post more details about your adjustable power supply?

[RLR350]

That would be great. Could you also post more details about your adjustable power supply?

The variable power supply is a 0-18 volt Atten. It was about $50. The link to one is below. Sometimes it will delay starting; you have to dial it down and then back up. I originally got it so I could adjust the speed by adjusting the voltage. It works fine, but is bulky and not necessary.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-APS1502D-0-15V-15-Volts-2A-Variable-Precision-DC-Cell-Phone-Power-Supply-/150711639269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23171d1ce5

I switched to a simple 12 volt/5 amp which runs about $15. It is wired into two switches, two PWM's and then each motor. No delay, less bulky and with the PWM's each motor has full power (12 volts), but speed can be adjusted from 0 - max rpms idependently.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wagan-5-Amp-AC-to-12v-DC-Power-Adapter/10928407?findingMethod=Recommendation:wm:RecentlyV iewedItems

Here are some photos of the the electrical box. It looks complicated, but isn't. It works great. The nice thing is the dials can be left in a position so you can retain the speed of each motor that you like for a particular type of brass and adjust the torches slightly if needed.

Overview of the outside of the electrical box. (The bottom PWM knob is off - you can see it in the next photo)
http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0749_zps49440d04.jpg

Front of panel. Made from lexan cut/drilled and painted.
http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/switchplate_zps9a1afd34.jpg

Rear of panel. I think if you enlarge it you can follow the wiring.
http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/backplate_zpsf7dac4a0.jpg

Back of the electrical installed. The new power supply can be seen in the bottom held in place with a spring (like the battery on a Chrony Beta).
http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0745_zps691ae08d.jpg

And this is where the wires lead to. Each of the two motors is controlled by a switch and PWM.
http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0766_zps0cc6c5b1.jpg

[RLR350]

Here are some more pictures of the build. I don't weld, so the original thought was to use jmorris' blade and plans, but adapt it to wood, commonly available metal (in other words Home Depot or Lowes) and screws/glue. Although the annealing process involves torches, the heat doesn't really transfer past the first part of the torch holders which means everything else stays cool and safe from burning.

Here is the finished product - the Lee collater has a paper funnel and 1/4" threaded bolt center post mod (seen on many you tube videos). I'll eventually change the paper part to a thin plastic. It creates a greater angle to handle the .223 case more reliably.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0765_zps84442429.jpg

The upper deck is 1/2" oak plywood bordered by 3/4" oak strips dado'd, mitered and glued. The black wood screws are decorative at this point. I just used them to clamp it together while the glue dried. The aluminum deck on the oak plywood is a mason's hawk from Lowes - 13" x 13" - easily workable and provides a smooth surface for the brass to travel on.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/annealer4_zps8e36789e.jpg

Under the blade I used two layers/pieces of lexan to provide support. It makes the blade stable. The screws holding the platform in allow the lexan to rotate, but not move into the area under the brass holes of the blade.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/annealer7_zpsd847edad.jpg

On top of the spinner platform I used a piece of plastic made from a credit card to keep errant cases from sliding off. I eventually re cut a new style hole in the aluminum deck that supports the spinner platform (keeps it from wobbling). The platform is a .45 case gage attached to the 3/16" motor arbor using a nylon bushing. The photo with the red plastic is the original hole. The next two are the final style hole and I used clear lexan instead of the red credit card (not for color, I had to change it and only had lexan available.) If you look close at the clear lexan where it would touch the spinning brass, it is filed to an angle. This allows the lexan to just barely touch the brass otherwise without the angle the lexan tends to hold the brass from spinning. Mounting the motor on the aluminum plate allows for adjust-ability. Since the holes under the wing nuts are larger than the screws the motor can be moved side to side, fore and aft a little, until it is in the proper position to not rub the hole in the aluminum.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0711_zps30e972be.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0740_zps523e3844.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0766_zps0cc6c5b1.jpg

This is a top view of the feeder arm and the Lee collater holder. Also a close up of the feed door post. The arms on the door post were made from left over square tube used for the torch holders. The aluminum pieces are just strap aluminum cut and drilled. This took a little time to make and adjust. The 1/4" rod that activates the door when the blade spins is held in place with a small set screw and can be adjusted to allow more space for larger brass.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0767_zps4fb4456e.jpg
http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0752_zps286bed1e.jpg

See next post for final photos.

[RLR350]

A couple more photos of the case feeder in the process of being built. Also, a picture of the basic arm. The door side arm (moving one) has to be really short past the half circle otherwise the cases will hit it as they exit. The upper arm is a little longer past the half circle to allow room for the aluminum deck to be screwed on.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0733_zpsc297d7a6.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0730_zps561c9d0a.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/feederarm_zps2cde40b9.jpg

And finally, the Lee collater arm support. It was an after thought other wise I would have planned for it in the original deck, but it worked out. It is height adjustable in case I do taller .308. I don't have any brass except .223, but I think I allowed enough adjust-ability in the whole design to quickly change over to other brass. The Lee feeder will be the limitation.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_0761_zps5f81e313.jpg

That's it. Sorry to bore you if I did. In the end the project was a lot of work! It cost more because of trial and error. I'd do a few things differently, too. In the end, it's fun to watch and does a great job annealing - I'm using Tempilaq 450 and 650 to do test runs.

Again, Thanks to jmorris and BIGGDAWG who designed and tested different things. You guys are true masters at crafting things. Hopefully some others that don't have welding skills or ability can use the ideas here to build their own from wood.

[jmorris]

Wow, that is quite impressive! I am still thinking about how much longer it would actually take to make one with casefeed without a welder...hats off to you.

[686]

Has any one else made an annealer like these ? Got pictures and info ?

[Walter Laich]

If I am repeating a question forgive me--I checked all 5 pages above....

could I do 45 Colt cases or are they too short? I'm running into losing 5-10% due to splits (old brass) and besides that always wanted an annealer.

I would be happy to build one but only if it would handle the 45 Colt brass.

thanks
walt

[biggdawg]

If I am repeating a question forgive me--I checked all 5 pages above....

could I do 45 Colt cases or are they too short? I'm running into losing 5-10% due to splits (old brass) and besides that always wanted an annealer.

I would be happy to build one but only if it would handle the 45 Colt brass.

thanks
walt

I will put one on mine and see it may be a little short. i can do a 40mm tall case with it and still had a little room to go.

[Bodine]

Necessity is the mother of invention! Excellent work !

[biggdawg]

If I am repeating a question forgive me--I checked all 5 pages above....

could I do 45 Colt cases or are they too short? I'm running into losing 5-10% due to splits (old brass) and besides that always wanted an annealer.

I would be happy to build one but only if it would handle the 45 Colt brass.

thanks
walt



just checked and i could do a 45 colt on mine it is the shortest one i could do on mine. my colt case measures around 32 mm

i am using a jamb nut which is thinner than a normal nut on the top to hold my threaded rod for the arms in place. if you are using a regular nut you won't get as low.

[Walter Laich]

thanks biggdawg--gives me something else to build now

walt

[Walter Laich]

In the hunter/gather mode, assembling all the items I'll need. Got the major one ordered so now we wait.

Thinking of using ball transfers to keep the blade from wobbling. Three, 120 degrees apart would keep the blade nice and level. Check p 30 on this pdf catelog: http://www.skf.com/binary/12-97863/Ball-Transfer-units.pdf

[knarfster]

So all in how much? (minus the case feeder)

[Walter Laich]

These are drive out prices with tax and shipping (as necessary) included:

spinner motor $10.80
Dayton 2L009 $72.37 (tax & shipping)
MX033: PWM DC Motor Speed Control $52.63 two of these for main wheel and spinner
Wagan 5 Amp AC to 12v DC Power Adapter $17.32 (tax & shipping)
Saw blade $60.00
3/8" metal wheel caster balls $16.91 Going to use these to keep saw blade level
Hawk (base plate) $13.00
total: $243.03

still have heat indicating liquids 700 and 400 degrees
torches (would have to buy them whether built or bought annealer

[jeepman8098]

Dayton 2L009 for $47.60 at http://www.zorotools.com/g/00075762/k-2L009/. Also if you add some thumb screws or something to get your total price above $50 you get free shipping. With coupon code Zmail4u I got a $5.00 discount! I have learned to do a Google search for coupon codes when ordering online to save a few $.

[lmfd20]

This is great. If I could get my household stuff sorted out from the move, I might be able to set my reloading stuff up in the new garage. This is definitely on the project list.

[Walter Laich]

Got mine almost complete. Used LRL350's as a model. Major differences is I used 3 small ball casters spaced 120 degrees apart to stablize the 'saw blade' and moved the drop hole a couple of inches further along the perimeter.

Didn't have oak and used some nice 1x2's.

Got the wood sealed and beginning my final assembly. Will have pictures in a few days

walt

[686]

Walter Laich did you finish your annealer and have pictures ? What type of speed control did you use ? thanks

[Walter Laich]

no pictures yet--turns out my camera uses a Smart Media card and they are no longer made. Getting one off of ebay and it should be here in a few days.

got it done and already used it on 750 .45 Colt cases. took awhile but it was fun to use the a new machine.

Used the same speed controls that RLR350 did. They work just as advertised.

I'll get pics as soon as possible

walt

[Walter Laich]

here are some pics in random order:
626246262562623626226262162626626276262862629

[jmorris]

Some of you guys sure are wood workers. What bearing did you use for the center Walter? I read you used rollers to make the "blade" stable, the center one must able to rotate in any direction?

[Walter Laich]

the bolt in the center just keeps the blade centered, no bearings at all. I used a sheet rock hawk as the metal base and it has a threaded fitting on the bottom. I drilled and taped it carefully all the way through so the bolt would thread in from the top.
The rollers are 120 degrees apart which keeps the blade stable. There is enough weight on the rollers that the blade doesn't move on its own. I drilled through the metal base plate so the blade would be closer to the base. Both .45 Colt and 45-70 brass are fine with this arrangement.
62681
62682

[686]

Walter Where did you get the rollers and where did you buy the speed controlers? i like the sheet rock hawk. i think it is cheaper thar buying a 12x12 alum 1/8" .

[Walter Laich]

3/8" rollers: http://www.robotshop.com/search/search.aspx?locale=en_us&keywords=ball caster

speed controlers: http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033

[686]

thanks Walter. i am going a different rute on the saw disk. i am using a 10" x 1/4" steel disk with 16 holes 9/16" . i will turn it by hand to start with. when i add a turning motor i will drill 1/4" in holes on the outer edge and put in 1/4" studs for the arm to turn the disk. i am doing like you did on the torch arms and i am making them out of alum. i am using the dry wall mud board like you did and making a wooden frame for wcery thing. i came up with hard plastic slide disk you use on the bottom of things you want to slide around on the floor. i will use 3 like you did with the rollers. i have the case roating motor. what did you put on it for the brass to sit on while turning? i was think about using a round alum stock or a wood dowel . still getting every thing together. thanks charles

[Walter Laich]

for the spinnner I made a cylinder out of wood on my lathe. The motor for it has a 5 mm shaft and luck would have it that I had the drill bit.
I have since topped it with a metal washer to keep the heat from the wood. It probably doesn't need this unless you are annealing short cases.
I did 750 .45 Colt cases the first time out and the wood top got a bit charred. Thinking of putting an O ring under the washer to form an air space--keeps the wood cooler.

[686]

did you mean the wood cylinder got hot or dod you mean the wood frame got hot ?

[Walter Laich]

wood cylinder. decided going to go with 4 strips of cork radiating out from center on it so air can come and go. O ring would have sealed off the area under the washer.

[686]

i am going to get a 1" alum cylinder cut 1" long and have a 5mm hole driled and side hole and tap it for a set screw. i got all yo wood and 2 new torches yesterday. should get my disk today. i will take pictures.

[Walter Laich]

pics are great--my camera was down until after the build was complete

[jeepman8098]

The one that I am building looks a lot like yours Walter. I used an old metal cabinet knob that I had laying around for the case spinner. I flattened the top on the grinder as it was a bit rounded and drilled and tapped it for a small set screw to mount on the motor. Hopefully it will stay cool enough to not cook the motor.

[Walter Laich]

I don't think you'll have problems with the motor getting hot. Main reason my spinner gets warm is I'm annealing .45 Colt brass which is short compared to rifle cases. Also did 750 cases first time. Going to do them in lots of 240 (what I shoot at a 2-day SASS match), hoping that will keep heat down

Will let you know how that goes.

w

[tabhunter]

So are you building & selling? Full monty $ ? Plans $? Inquiring minds want to know what this great addition to our reloading is gonna cost full up :razz: Great job.

[rbertalotto]

I'M JUST LOVING THIS WHOLE THREAD!

"I'm using a 12v transformer from an old answering machine and a dash light dimmer out of an '86 RX-7. "

You guys crack me up! Ingenious!

[686]

how good, bad, or ok is it having 2 torches hitting the case, one from each side and the case NOT SPINNING ??

[jmorris]

The whole point of having opposing torches in the first place was so I didn't have to spin it.

I am sure it doesn't hurt but I haven't seen any evidence in my results that have lead me to converting my machine.

[arjacobson]

Jmorris I just wanted to say thanks a bunch for the info and annealer wheel. I got mine finished up the other day and ran 1k of 300aac brass and 100 7.62x45 czech.. The thing works like a charm!!!

[jmorris]

No problem. How about some photos of it.

[686]

any one else been working on there annealer. got pictures ? i have my disk made and temp. mounted on the alum. plate. i have hand turned it with 6br and 223 brass to see if they would slide around. they work ok. i have been too busy to put the rest of it together to try out. i am going to turm it by hand and just count while it is in the 2 flames. i do have the torch brackets and threaded rods to mount the torches on just need the time to finish it. when i start putting it all together i will take some pictures . thanks charles

[rbertalotto]

I just got my disc from Morris the other day. Ordered the torch heads and found a real nice variable DC power supply at work that they were going to throw away. They said it "blew up"...I hooked it up and it works five...go figure! (Circuit Specialists CSI 3003X...0-30VDC/0-3A regulated)

Need to order a motor and start fabricating parts. Looks like a fun project!

[rbertalotto]

Would this motor work to move the plate:

Bühler? Bühler? Anyone?
This 12VDC gear motor from Bühler Motor® (341 4 305 A) spins at approx 40 rpm, draws 25mA, stalls at 1.7A Measures 1-7/8" x 1-5/8" x 1-1/8" with an offset 3/8" x 1-8" flattened and keyed shaft. Includes a pair of 7" leads. Made in Germany


STATUS: IN STOCK
41389P1 BÜHLER 12VDC 40 RPM GEAR MOTOR
$14.50 EACH

http://www.sciplus.com/productImages/photo/250x350/51171.jpg

http://www.sciplus.com/p/BHLER-12VDC-40-RPM-GEAR-MOTOR_51171

[rbertalotto]

And what about this one?

Item# 5-1651

Our Price $8.95



48 RPM 12 VDC MOTOR W/GEAR ASSY

431 In Stock






12 VDC MOTOR W/ GEAR TRAIN
Surplus BUEHLER MOTOR model 1.13.022.212.03 right angle gearmotor. Bronze worm gear off the motor shaft drives two plastic spur gears. Output shaft extends from face of final gear in the gear train.

SPECIFICATIONS

Speed 48 RPM
Voltage 12 DC
Amperage 69 mA (no load)
Rotation Reversible
Duty Continuous



Mount Two tapped holes on 1.658" centers
Shaft 0.33" diam. x 0.33" long
Size 5-7/8" x 1-5/8" x 2-3/4"
Shpg. 1-1/2 lbs.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p5-1651C.jpg

[Boosted98gsx]

Is there a kit for this yet? I need an annealer, not looking to spend an arm and a leg, but don't want to engineer my own setup.

[huntnfish72]

Maybe my next project

[deepskyridge]

Where did you guys get the bearing for the blade main support. ?

Thanks
Gary

[Walter Laich]

If you look back at mine I went with three ball casters that keeps the wheel level as well as act like a bearing. No bearing is necessary for the center either; the center bolt just keeps the wheel from getting off track. Works like a charm.

walt

[jmorris]

Walt's way is easier than what I did but I used oil impregnated bronze bushings. You can get them at a good hardware store or any bearing supply.

[jmorris]

Here is one a friend and I just threw together, using two oil light bushings.

[deepskyridge]

Thanks for the info, I got my blade the other day and am getting parts together for the build.

How to you guys keep track of when a batch of brass needs to be annealed ? Or do you anneal it every time ?

Just curious.

Gary

[jmorris]

Almost all of my brass comes from 3 gun matches and most of it is not mine. So I anneal every case.

[deepskyridge]

Are those brake lines done with flare or compression fittings ?

Thanks
Gary

[jmorris]

A double flare.

[Strafem30MM]

I have been following along with the case annealing thread and have built mine from the parts listed on here. I have noticed that when my cases get to the case spin station that they do not like to spin all the time. I think it is because they are not perfectly centered on the spin motor.

To run the machine for various different brass i.e. 223 to 300 Win Mag I will have to change the way the blade advances so it centers the case on the motor. I have come up with two ways to center the case.
1. Move the motor slightly to accommodate the different size, but this may leave a gap when running the smaller cases and they may not feed correctly.
2. Change the size of the bolt/shaft that comes in contact with the "Saw Blade" to advance to the next case .

I suspect that the second one would be the easiest to do. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Also would a coarser spinning platform be better?

On a side issue. I'm working on coming up with a CAD template for the table top that would work with the components used in this build. Once complete you could have a water/LASER cut for the top so all the components would fall in place nicely. I'll keep everyone up to date.

[Walter Laich]

Mine will stop some times.
I adjusted the spinning wheel to almost as slow as possible.
That way it keeps rotating (slowly) for most of the time the case is in the flames.
Seems to work for me.

[Strafem30MM]

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

[Strafem30MM]

Slowing things down on the spinning wheel helped. Additionally, I scored the spinning disc to roughen up the surface and that seemed to help as well. I got the 223 working well, now it is on to larger cases (30-06 and 300 Win Mag)

[Walter Laich]

glad to know it's working better. Good luck on other cases

[jmorris]

Sorry for the 3 fellows that have been waiting on the next order of blades to get cut but they will be shipped tomorrow and I have stock again.

trying to keep it inexpensive for others and the laser shop had some equipment issues over the last few weeks.

I will look into other venders but it has been work to keep the price from going up only $4.65 Over the last 4 years.

[anotherred]

It was worth the wait, and the plate looks great! Oh and thanks on the updates while we where waiting. I'll update the project as things come together.

[texasbigcat]

I just found this if your still selling this I want on just let me know what to do at texasbigcat@yahoo.com thanks

[jmorris]

I sent you an email.

[Lone_Star]

I am also interested in purchasing one of your 'blades' and plans. Please PM me with details on payment, etc.

Thanks!

[Lone_Star]

Received my blade on Friday, will get started on building in the next couple of weeks....
Thanks jmorris!

[barryjyoung]

One of my oldest friends name is J. Morris. I want a blade and any plans which might be available. What do I do Mr. Morris?

Thank you.

[jmorris]

Check your email.

[RLR350]

glad to know it's working better. Good luck on other cases

I haven't looked at this in a while and just saw your finished product. Looks good. Glad to see another wood one working.

I read the parts about the cases not spinning. That was the difficult part. I used a rough spot of jb weld in the center of the case gauge hole - I guess it was a benefit as using the gauge as a spinner. Working out the shape and adjusting the angle of the little piece of metal between the blade and the table helps to keep the case in the center of the spinner, too. (there is a close up of the area in a picture in the a previous post). I'm with jmorris though, spinning is neat, but I'm not sure the effect is useful, although it does make the coloring more consistent all of the way around.

[cruisor]

I'd sure be interested in one of your blades. Please PM me on how to make it happen.

Thanks,

Lee

[Nicholastheczar]

I'm interested in one of the blades as well.

Nick
nicholastheczar@yahoo.com

[Weber]

Very nice set up, I was looking at building one myself with a different design.

But I like this set up, how much are you selling the blades and the plans for now?

[jmorris]

$60 shipped.

[Weber]

PM sent.

[Weber]

Started working annealer today.

I have the plate and motor in place, and hooked up to a 12v battery as a temp.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps0ff931b2.jpg

Short video of it spinning.


http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/97E7A556-982C-4567-9DE9-8E9AE2953E00-390-0000013FCFE1F6FF_zps1254d2d9.mp4

[TylerPatz]

Started working annealer today.

I have the plate and motor in place, and hooked up to a 12v battery as a temp.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps0ff931b2.jpg

Short video of it spinning.


http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/97E7A556-982C-4567-9DE9-8E9AE2953E00-390-0000013FCFE1F6FF_zps1254d2d9.mp4
Looking good brother!!! What did you tell me you were using for the body? Some small metal shelving??

[Weber]

Looking good brother!!! What did you tell me you were using for the body? Some small metal shelving??

It's a plano plastic shelving unit from Walmart $11, and it fits perfectly.

I'll post a couple more pics when I get home, I used a pilot assembly for the torch.

Still fine tuning the case spinner.

[Weber]

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps1292a1be.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps6c8c0eeb.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps2eefe97d.jpg

[TylerPatz]

Now that's looking awesome!! I like the remote torch idea. I've been racking my brain until I found a female throwaway to 1/4 pipe adapter on amazon. Looks like what I was thinking. But your torch tip is a new one for me. Is that a grease gun end??

[Weber]

It's a pilot assembly for a gas furnace. I just cut off the part that holds the thermocouple.

[rbertalotto]

Bought a plate from J Morris some time ago, never got around to building my annealer. A nice snow storm gave me a good bit of "Shop Time" so I started my build.

Pictures and a video are on my web site here:

www.rvbprecision.com

Hope you like it!

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Hello! I am interested in a plate and plans. Thanks!

molesnomore1@gmail.com

Whenever you get a chance please send me payment info. Thanks!!

Tony

[jkmola]

Mr Morris - you have a pm. I would like to purchase the plate and plans, also. If it's easier, my email is:

jkmola@aol.com

[rbertalotto]

I finally finished my annealer....

I posted the web site on various forums I frequent and folks want to get in touch with J.Morris. Is the only way to reach him through this forum via a PM? Gotta be an easier way that having to register over here?

My finished annealer with a video is here:

rvbprecision.com
rvbprecision.com

[jmorris]

Returned your PM JK.

My email is jmorrismetal@gmail.com but PM's from here never make it into my junk box.

[Themayor]

Any chance you made more of the attachments to mount the dillon case holder to the annealer?

[jmorris]

I only made the one in the album in the first post. There nave been a few others in this thread that made the feeder part too. I will say that part took a bit of tinkering to work 100%.

[Walter Laich]

I still enjoy watching mine work so having a case feeder is not a problem for me.
.
course I only do 300-400 at a time

[686]

just where should the flame hit on the case? is it center on the neck, neck sholder junction, sholder, or sholder body junction ? i have mine set center on neck sholder junction. i ran 4 7br cases yesterday on time with no timplaqu, i was giving them 7 sec and looked good. i have some timplaqu coming. it is still a project in progress, not even any legs yet and i am hand turning the disk. i know pictures when i can. thanks for every ones help. Charles

[686]

I SAW A PLACE THAT SAID CENTER ON THE NECK sholder junction. if any one knows different let mr knoe. i also picked up 2 hoses to hook up the bottles to the torches so the arms do not have to cary the weight. i got them at home depot $14 ea.

[jmorris]

That is what I do. I might adjust it for some cases a little lower for fat cases with small necks.

[kryogen]

great stuff

[skyegod]

Damn!! - nice work

[jmorris]

I have had a bunch of folks that have asked about a finished machine, ready to go. I have not had the time to offer more than the "hard part" for DIY types for the last 5 years. There are a number of machines that are ready to go on the market these days. What would be the price point for a completed machine like many of you have built?

[Okiecat]

Cant get my pwm's to work. Motors turn but dont change speeds. Grd on bottom, hot in on top, next down(n+) red or hot to motor. Next down and above grd(n-) blk or grd to motor. Whats wrong? Using same stuff as Walter and RLR 350

[jmorris]

Can you post a photo of what you have?

[Okiecat]

Sure will be tomorrow night before I get home. Thanks. Dont no jack about elec. I wire all the components to a common ground. Just kept linking them together. Could that be the problem?

[Okiecat]

Heres my pics. Red wires hot. Blue wires grd. 107116107117107118107119

[jmorris]

The links don't work for me. Sent you a PM.

[taptapdown]

I like it, should I looked here before buying one.
I got the giraud. don't get me wrong, I like it, but sometimes the mechanical parts get stuck (the slides) and it burns the case and overworks the motor.

couldn't figure out why, but I like your setup much more. probably can anneal more cases than the giraud?

[jmorris]

The cycle time is cut in half vs the Giraud because of the use of two torches vs one but that is only a time concern.

[taptapdown]

Well, I was going to experiment with mapp gas on the giraud, but for that I need the slide to be faster but the motor is already at max speed,

[pbraceguns]

Sorry for the 3 fellows that have been waiting on the next order of blades to get cut but they will be shipped tomorrow and I have stock again.

trying to keep it inexpensive for others and the laser shop had some equipment issues over the last few weeks.

I will look into other venders but it has been work to keep the price from going up only $4.65 Over the last 4 years.

Do You still have any blades for the annealer machines W/the layout drawings?
If so could you please send payment info to perkbilt@gmail.com

[jmorris]

I do, sent you an email.

[Dave Bob]

jmorris could you send me info.

[Fla9-40]

What is the diameter of the blade you make?

[jmorris]

12 inches

[jimbull34]

Just a quick note to ya' all, Surplus Center, in Omaha NE has the small geared motors that you are using and they are cheap! Lots of other good stuff too.....

[jmorris]

Any link to them?

[KrakenFan69]

Hi jmorris,

I am trying to get in touch with you about purchasing a disk and plan set for an annealer. I sent you a PM but not sure it went through. Do you still sell them? Are you willing to ship it to the T0J 0Z0 postal code of Canada?



Thanks,

Kraken Fan #69

[jimbull34]

Surpluscenter.com it be!

[Charlie in Co]

jmorris

I would like to order a "blade" and plans. This looks really great and the machines built are awesome.

[cruisor]

I as well would like to order a blade and plans.

Thanks,

Lee

[jmorris]

Send me an email reloadinggear at gmail dot com.

[Charlie in Co]

Gathering the parts for my build and realized it was not clear to me how the motor shaft is coupled to the shaft that turns the arm for advancing the blade. Can anyone help with that ?

[jmorris]

The plans sent with the blade show that the "drive wheel" is drilled and tapped and the set screw holds it directly to the motor shaft.

Like in this photo that shows both the part and the drawing. From the album linked to in the first post in '09.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/DSC01737.jpg

The prototype machines I have built for production use 1/2" aluminum bar stock drilled then reamed to 5/16" and have an 8-32 set screw that mounts it to the motor shaft. And the 10-32 socket head cap screw is threaded in from the bottom.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMG_20140516_243104_556-1_zpsa294a6ae.jpg

Some folks have used a set collar welded to a section of steel with a bolt in it for the job. Like this one.

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/borganneal.mp4

[Charlie in Co]

Thanks for the quick reply ! Did you find it necessary to file a flat spot on the motor shaft for the set screw ?

[jmorris]

No, the Dayton 2L009 that the plans are for has a "D" shaped shaft, align the set screw with the flat. Wiggle it back and forth as you seat the set screw and you will be good to go. There is very little torque involved, just what it takes to skid empty cases on a smooth surface.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/DSC01736.jpg

[Charlie in Co]

All the parts are ordered and I am really pumped to build this. I will post pics of my build.

[401pm]

I've finally got my annealer going and was just wondering do I need to dump the annealed cases (3006) in water or just let them air cool ? I've read both on here I was thinking a smaller case might need it say 221 FB or .223 . Just wondering Thanks guys....

[jmorris]

I do not use water. If you can hold the case head after annealing with a bare hand, you are OK.

[flyingrhino]

Jmorris, how high is the surface of your blade from the aluminum deck? Mine is 1/2" and I'm having issues with my 223 cases tipping over (forward). It's like the blade is too high on the case and/or too much drag on the head of the case. I've polished my aluminum deck but it didn't help. I think my blade needs to be closer to the deck. Just wondered if you had a similar experience in your build.

[jmorris]

A 1/2" is too high, I would try half that distance and see how it works.

[Jerryy]

Would also like to purchase the plans and index plate.
THANKS
Jerry

[jmorris]

Send me a pm and I will get you fixed up.

[Jerryy]

Pm sent
thanks

[Gila Jorge]

Bought a Bench Source annealer recently...and absolutely love it...had some problems with it..and the manufacturer was on it in a heartbeat...and got me
back up to speed...they are the nicest folks to do business with...bought the machine from Grafs & Sons....

[rlporter507]

tried to pm you, but it says it's full. I want to build a machine, and need a plate.
thanks

[jmorris]

Cleared it out and my email is in post 196 on page 10.

[bbqncigars]

My build isn't quite as fancy as most, 'cause I used drop (free) stuff from our shop. One thing I'm going to change is to swap out the plain PWM with one of these. (http://www.dx.com/p/maitech-ccm5d-digital-dc-motor-speed-controller-pwm-stepless-speed-control-switch-black-312799)

[taltom]

Building my prototype now. What diameter case spinner seems to work best for you guys?

Thanks,
Terry

[jmorris]

I don't use a "spinner", even annealing is done by the two opposing torches. Also lets the process happen faster thus reducing the risk of heat transfer to the case head.

[Charlie in Co]

Finished the annealed today. Works great! Would post pic and video but don't know how

[kdbarker]

Great thread and great info! Just what I needed, another project... I am getting sick of annealing thousands of 300BLK cases by hand!

[gondwana]

Inspirational! Well done sir.

[Julian537]

I got all my parts together and fab'd up. Here is a video of it in operation. My plate is about 3/16" above the table. I ended up buffing the aluminum table and waxing it to get my .204 Ruger cases to stop falling over. Here is a video of it in action. http://youtu.be/wnauUsa4dXQ

[jmorris]

Well done sir!

[Julian537]

Thank you John. There was some learning along the way. One big thing I learned is that welding causes internal inclusions to your machined surfaces!

[jmorris]

That can happen. Would you care to post more photos and details? Looks like a clean build using Dillon conversion parts.

[woody290]

JMorris, Are you still selling the plates and plans? I would like to be able to try building this this year.

Thanks!

[jmorris]

Yes, I am also completed basic machines (no case feed). If my PM box is full my email is posted in page 10 of this thread, post #196.

[KrakenFan69]

OK. So after having the plate from JMorris for over a year I have finally started building my annealer. I wanted to add the "spinner" disc and I'm having an issue with the case walking to the edge of the spinner and then no longer spinning. Has anyone else had this issue? What did you do? If I tap the index plate back a tiny bit it works perfectly but then on occasion I have the indexing motor jam up on the main disc. I know the original design used 2 torches to accomplish even heating but I really wanted to do the spinner but it is proving troublesome.

Thanks,

Kraken Fan #69

[Weber]

Am I allowed to offer my annealer parts for sale in this thread?

I have the plate/blade, motor, linkage arm, bushing and bearings, case spinner motor, two pulse width modulators, pilot assembly and tubing.

[jmorris]

Give it a shot, if the mods mess with your post, you could always put it in the swapin/sellin forum and post the link here.

[pcmacd]

I got all my parts together and fab'd up. Here is a video of it in operation. My plate is about 3/16" above the table. I ended up buffing the aluminum table and waxing it to get my .204 Ruger cases to stop falling over. Here is a video of it in action. http://youtu.be/wnauUsa4dXQ

What a nice machine. The counter was a classy touch.

Everything I've ever read on annealing a case notes to drop it into water immediately after heating so the heat does not move towards the head, and that's how I've always done it. Yours waits a few seconds for that. This work OK for you?

[jmorris]

Everything I've ever read on annealing a case notes to drop it into water immediately after heating so the heat does not move towards the head,

Your only applying enough heat to anneal the neck and for a very short duration at that, so heat migration is not an issue.

You can hold the case immediately after it is annealed.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/th_nottoohot.mp4 (http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/nottoohot.mp4)

[1066]

No need to water quench although it won't do any harm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/allan1066/th_3a52d45c-df11-4aa6-9923-9ffb4363f185_zps46a46eaf.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/allan1066/media/3a52d45c-df11-4aa6-9923-9ffb4363f185_zps46a46eaf.jpg.html)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jv75-9p9yFA

[jmorris]

I guess if you also wet tumble you get to dry twice.

[1066]

I guess if you also wet tumble you get to dry twice.

I wet tumble then anneal which certainly dries them out ok. :)

[6bg6ga]

I wet tumble then anneal which certainly dries them out ok. :)

If you wet tumble and then anneal do you end up with any calcium build up inside the shell casing?

[1066]

If you wet tumble and then anneal do you end up with any calcium build up inside the shell casing?

Shake them out first, just left a bit damp. I've never noticed any calcium build up, I also only use rain water from the butt to tumble and rinse them.

[Clark]

I just searched "case annealer" in youtube.
....I need more coffee..

[mdhillbilly1]

I guess if you also wet tumble you get to dry twice.
I have been told to use my RO/DI FILTER setup that I use for my fish tanks.

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

[byrd45900]

That is a job done with pride.

[Shiloh]

Wonder craftsmanship.

Shiloh

[Tsquared]

Interesting thread. I just wish photobucket hadn't gone to ****. I am currently working on a drum feed to a rotating pie plate design that I have copied off of a few that I saw on youtube. I have the mechanicals figured out and the electronics. I am currently working on the the case feed and then I will work on the torch.