Looking for a old post about lee drip fixs.... does anybody remember this post?

[Onlymenotu]

about a year ago * give or take* there was a post by a member here on fixing a lee drip-o-matic his post was detailed and had pic's where he had removed the rod and made a silicone cast of the seat and turned the rod to match the seat and reseated it ect ect,,,,,, anybody remember the post/ author of this post?

I spent over a hour searching for it last night with no luck * tons of other links on the drip fix's...... but not the one i want*

[JSnover]

No, but I've heard of people putting lapping compound on the end of the rod and turning it in the seat.

[Onlymenotu]

yea i've seen those post on using lapping compound,,, but in the post I am hunting for he reshaped the rod to closer fit the seating area....... there was a huge differance in the rod seating area,,,,, and the seat it's self..... then reseated it or relapped it.....

[hydraulic]

Two thing I've taken from posts on this site: 1. Clean alloy. I smelt in a plumbers pot and clean the alloy well before it goes into the Lee dripper. 2. I have attached a cheap pair of chinese vice grips to the handle. I think that covering the mix with kitty litter and stirring/fluxing with a stick has also helped. It still drips, occasionally, but a twist on the rod stops it.

[Dale53]

I have owned several different brands of bottom pour pots. Even my RCBS pots would drip on occasion. However, after someone on here mentioned the little tip about putting a small vise grip on the handle, it has stopped. I bought an inexpensive Chinese vise grip, clamped it on the handle to add weight, and it hasn't dripped since. That is after several thousand bullets have been cast. It has been a TRULY worthwhile procedure.

Dale53

[Onlymenotu]

Thanks guys I've seen most of these fix's and most likely work some of them into my new pot that is coming,,,,,,, I did find the post I was looking for * less the pic's* as it's a old post and they are long scence gone... but I'm going to contact the poster of the said post and see if he still has the pic's to repost...... some onelse maybe intrested in this too... scence its a on going thing as I have around 20 post links on this subject over the years,... and these are just the ones that i saved to a text file...

[IcerUSA]

When and if you make a new pin remember that that little part on the end of the rod has to be smaller than the hole in the spout to let the lead pass and to keep the rod from binding (alinement pin) .

Keith

[Onlymenotu]

Ok folks I contacted the owner of the post *Texasflyboy* and wish to give credit where credit is due and say Thanks for let'n me use the info
here is his post
When I built my own pot, I ordered a LEE 20lb spout and rod to use with my pot. When I saw the rod that came with the spout I was immediately suspicious, thinking, "That's gonna leak for sure".

So I did a wax cast of the Lee 20 lb spout cavity. Here is what I found:

http://hgmould.gunloads.com/newpot/instructions_files/image009.jpg



And here is what I made out of an old piece of round stock, sandpaper, and a flat needle file:

http://hgmould.gunloads.com/newpot/instructions_files/image008.jpg

The rod I made isn't perfect, but it seals in two areas and does seem to cause a lot less leaks than I had with my older pots, one of which was a LEE 20lb.

Your mileage may vary, but I would take a whack at making a better spout rod if I still used a LEE 20lb'er.

here (http://hgmould.gunloads.com/newpot/instructions.htm) is the link to Texasflyboy homemade pot... nice job you owe it to your self to check it out,,, Thanks again Texasflyboy:drinks:

he he and by the way the original post was from 2006.....* jeesh time flys*