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View Full Version : Pid control for 220v lee 4-20 “help”



Horsemen
03-08-2009, 07:19 PM
I have been looking at some of the PID control systems that some of you have done. Seams that all of them are for 110v heaters. My pot is the 220v Lee 4-20. My project needs to be for 220v American. I would also like to use it for a 220v lube heater. I have several questions. The Lyman 220 heater is for European voltage. Is the 220v replacement element for American voltage? I know I will need to fab the base plate.

This is the heater that Midway has. It doesn’t say for European voltage.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=610381
Now to the PID control. I was looking at this one. http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106
The SSR. I will also get the heat sink
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=30
The thermocouple for the pot
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=22
The thermocouple for the lube heater
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=101
Here’s what I came up with as far as hooking it all up.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/Horsemen1/pid2.jpg

Will it work or do I need to change some things? I’m not a pro electrician.
Regards Mike :drinks:

felix
03-08-2009, 07:57 PM
Looks like you will need more power for the pot, i.e., more amperage capability for longevity purposes. I would find an SSR that can handle 5 amps per leg. ... felix

Horsemen
03-08-2009, 08:37 PM
The SSR that I was considering is a 40a 440vac. Thats not enough? Felix, per leg? Do I need to control both L1 and L2??

ddeaton
03-08-2009, 09:12 PM
The SSR that I was considering is a 40a 440vac. Thats not enough? Felix, per leg? Do I need to control both L1 and L2??

You look fine with this. A 10 amp ssr would be fine and a little cheaper. You only need to break one leg. Most all Dig temp controls will work on 110 or 220. I am going to set mine up the same way on 220.

Why are you leaving the reostat in series with the heater element on the pot schematic? Get rid of it, you dont need it.

Horsemen
03-08-2009, 09:30 PM
I was thinking the same thing but left it the diagram any way. Thanks for the responces. Does any one got info on that lube heater?

Lee W
03-08-2009, 09:55 PM
What you have is good. I use PID for my pot and lube heater also. It spoils you.
Leaving the thermostat there is a good idea, it will act as an over temp safety. Just don't forget it is in the circuit. If you set the thermostat to 400F, the pot will never get over 400f...

I have hooked a few euro 250 volt things to 220 and it is OK. There are some motors that may not like it, ie one with servo motors.

ddeaton
03-08-2009, 09:59 PM
I dont know the lube heater in question, but if it is sold as a 220vac unit, it will work here in the states. The only difference Europe is 50 cycle and here we are 60. Makes no difference for what you are doing. It will draw just a tad less current over here. Make sure your thermocople is bottomed out in the Alum base plate to get a accurate reading. I am going to use the threaded thermocouple in my base plate and need to make sure of the same with it. You might want to include some sort of fuse or breaker in your circuit. I know it is hard to fit all of that in some sort of a small box, but will always protect the equip.

ddeaton
03-08-2009, 10:02 PM
What you have is good. I use PID for my pot and lube heater also. It spoils you.
Leaving the thermostat there is a good idea, it will act as an over temp safety. Just don't forget it is in the circuit. If you set the thermostat to 400F, the pot will never get over 400f...

I have hooked a few euro 250 volt things to 220 and it is OK. There are some motors that may not like it, ie one with servo motors.

Lee, that does make some sense also. Leave it in place and always have it set higher than you are running it.

felix
03-08-2009, 10:09 PM
Good to go now, using inclusively all the posts in this thread. ... felix

Horsemen
03-12-2009, 10:50 PM
I had a brain fart on the way to work. So I revised the wire diagram to include both 110v and 220v heater control circuits. The heater power will need to have, 2 separate cords. One for 110v and one for 220v. DON’T MIX THEM UP, OR YOU WILL LET THE SMOKE OUT!!!!!!

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/Horsemen1/pidcontrol110-220.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/Horsemen1/PIDCONTROLHEATERDETAILS.jpg

L1= 110V CIRCUIT (BLACK WIRE)
L2= 110V CIRCUIT (USUALY RED WIRE)
G1=GROUND OR COMMON GROUND (GREEN WIRE OR WHITE WIRE)
C1=COMMON GROUND (WHITE WIRE)

I ordered the parts and there in the mail. I will post this project when finished, in SPECIAL PROJECTS. With Pictures!!!
Regards to all Mike
:drinks: