School me on Contenders?

[j20owner]

I've never gotten the bug for a Contender or Encore, but have been dreaming about building/buying a rifle in .218 Mashburn Bee. I was cruising the local GS today and they had a Contender pistol with a .30-30, octogon barrel of about 10" long. Price was $395. Last I looked at Encores(I know, apples and oranges here), I thought they were averaging around $650.

I've also cruised the T/C website and know that they offer Contender rifle barrels in .218 Bee. I've also seen websites where smiths will chamber Contender barrels, and the Mashburn was an option.

What I'm needing is some info on how to determine if it's a G2 or original Contender, if it even really matters. Is there anything in particular I need to check for when I'm looking at it? Thanks for any and all info!!

[missionary5155]

Good Morning
Back in the 80´s when I was shooting the Steel critters i had a Tc in 7mm TCU... That may have been the most accurate pistol I have ever shot. With a 120 grain J thang it would shoot less than 3" at 200 meters of the bench. For rams I used the 140 grainers that were a Bit less accurate out of the 14" barrel 4-5" at 200 meters.
There must be a TCU Forum out there that has all the pictures.. If you have a Gun price book or access GUNBROKER. com there are specimens for sale.
I have thought off and on about a 41 mag barrel (my personal favorite revolver caliber) but there always seems to be another flinter or U.S. Army rifle getting in the way. And Lever actions... UGH...
God Bless you

[dubber123]

If it's got any engraving on the sides of the action, it's a Contender, usually if not always an image of a Cougar. The G2 is much plainer, with just a single scallop along the side. It's probably an older Contender, especially wearing an octagon bbl.

If I were you, I'd get a Contender with the little lever switch on TOP of the hammer that has "R" and "C" on it, (rimfire/centerfire). These are the so called "easy open" frames. The Contenders before this can be a bear to open.

In the 3 or 4 old style, (non G2) Contenders I've fooled with, the trigger was adjustable down to around 2-1/2 pounds. The trigger on the G2 is not externally adjustable. You may get a good one, or it may be 7 pounds like my last one was. Good luck.

[218bee]

Contenders are fun. Google "Eds Contenders" that guy has a site where he sells factory barrels and parts and though I've never dealt with him personally his prices seem ok and I believe some fellas from here have recommended him in the past. He probably has a 218 barrel that would just need to be reamed to the wildcat you desire. Be aware that Contender and Encore barrels are NOT interchangeable.

[James C. Snodgrass]

The G2's are more or less a small encore . You can do a trigger job on one with a spring kit from Bellm t/c . I've got three of the G2's and a couple of the older models. The g2 is much easier to open for my daughters and as far as rechambering goes SSK is a good place to look I would say if it can be done J.D has a reamer for it . James:D

[j20owner]

When you say a G2 is easier, how much easier? Is it impossible for the daughters to open the non-G2s and slick as glass for the G2s?

Also, if it has a cougar on the side(it does) that means it is a original config Contender?

[HeavyMetal]

Something to be aware of: Original Contender's have two locking bolts available: one for the original frame ( solid bolt) and one for the Easy open frame ( split bolt) While barrels are interchangeable the Bolts are not! Putting a barrel equipped with the old style bolt on an easy open frame will result in a gun that will not re open when you pull up on the trigger guard!

I was successful in recovering a Contender in the above condition but it was a PITA to do.

[dubber123]

When you say a G2 is easier, how much easier? Is it impossible for the daughters to open the non-G2s and slick as glass for the G2s?

Also, if it has a cougar on the side(it does) that means it is a original config Contender?

Cougar= origional Contender, not G2. However, they changed the Origional Contender during production to make it easier to open. I always ID these by the little pivoting switch ON TOP of the hammer. The early ones used a different system.

This switch changes it from rim, to center fire. If it is one of these, no problems for a girl to open. I don't notice my G2 as being any easier to open than one of these late production Contenders. The EARLY ones I have seen grown men fight with.

[j20owner]

Ok, thanks for the info guys!!

Heavy Metal, I was just reading through all suggestions and tips again. What 'bolt' are you referring to? I'm completely incompetent when it comes to the Contenders/Encores, so sorry if that's a stupid question.

[leadman]

The bolt is the shiny metal piece under the chamber end of the barrel. The one piece is the original style, was later changed to 2 pieces side by side in the same location. Helps keep a Contender closed with the heavier recoiling cartridges and easier to open.This is part of the barrel locking mechanism.
I have dealt with Ed's Contenders and highly recommend him. Reasonable prices and fast shipping.
He does at times have barrels from third parties and/or have been rechambered.
I bought a T/C Custom Shop 23" Contender barrel in 25-35 Win from him.

[Willbird]

The G2 has "gussets" on the side of the frame to strengthen it. You can see them in this picture.
http://www.wholesalehunter.com/product.asp?ref=gb&productid=42121

The original contender does not have those added bulges(much more elegant IMHO)

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=123669215

I much prefer the original contenders. Use them in the calibers that make sense which are pistol calibers and 222 sized high intensity cartridges. 218 mashburn Bee would be an excellent choice for a contender.

Bill

[tommag]

Lots of info here. Several (that I know of) members here are over there, as well.
http://specialtypistols.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x

[HeavyMetal]

Leadman has it right as per the discription of the bolt I was refering to.

Barrels with the original one piece bolt will not open if put on an easy open frame and closed!

Just posting this so you will know.

Also have seen it suggested that TC will send new bolts for free. Don't believe it! I bought a Contender about a yr 1/2 ago and sent it to TC to be switched to easy open. At that time they did my original 22 hornet barrel.

Additional bolts? $27.00 each plus shipping! Free? Nothing free here man we were just bought by Smith & Wesson!

You can't go wrong with a Contender, fun to shoot and very accurate.

[35remington]

It's a great gun with a dazzling array of barrels.

One caution.

Many Contender chamberings are not throated properly by T/C and are darn near impossible to get to shoot with cast lead bullets. Most Contender barrels shoot jacketed bullet just fine to extremely well, as they are far more forgiving of imperfect or poorly cut throats.

Don't necessarily expect the Custom Shop to cut a more cast bullet friendly throat/leade than the run of the mill factory chambered offerings.

They won't. (I learned the hard way).

So don't expect cast bullet accuracy in any and all T/C chamberings - just take it as a gift when it happens, as you may have just got lucky. This isn't about all chamberings from T/C, but there are some that will bite you with cast bullets.

Now, I'll have eleventy zillion guys after this post who will claim their T/C's shoot cast just fine, and I don't doubt them.

However, should you see some of the chamber casts I've taken of T/C barrels and the results I've had, you wouldn't doubt ME either.

So, if shooting lead bullets is your goal, ask first to see if others have had luck with T/C barrels and cast bullets in your intended caliber. Or have the barrel properly throated if it's a dog.

[twotrees]

One thing that has NOT been mentioned about Contenders, is proper loading for them.

Load a round for your barrel, long and with the barrel off the frame drop the cartage into the barrel, slowly seat the boolit deeper, until it will fully chamber in the barrel. If you try to use the barrel to force, even slightly, a long loaded round into the chamber, it will not fire !!

When you resize, do the same thing with you full length sizing die, to find out when the case just goes in of it's own accord.

I have been shooting these guns for a while and have rimmed and rimmless barrels, failure to follow these simple rules will cause you no end of fits.

The other posters are right that some barrels will not shoot cast well, but will love J word bullets. I have a 44 mag 10" barrel that loves 240 XTP but will shoot the "Keith" cast 240 into a group only 2X bigger at 100 yards.

Mike Bellam, has a site that is devoted to Contender's and is a good guy to talk to, but he will tell you, as any good salesman, that his are the Best products. LOL

Good Luck and Good shooting,

TwoTrees

[leadman]

35Remington is correct about the throating in some T/C barrels. The 6.5 TCU is one. It likes120 to 129 gr. jacketed bullets. Nothing lighter or heavier that I know of. Haven't tried cast.
30-30 Win. usually is a very good cast bolit shooter.
My advise if you want a 22 caliber is to start with a 22lr and have it rechambered. I had a 22lr rechambered by Gary Reeder to 22K Hornet. Shoots .224" jacketed and cast equally well. I know, supposed to use .223". They don't shoot as well. Have shot the 45gr. Sierra SP into groups as small as 1/4" more than once.
357Max is another with a history of throat problems.

As mentioned above Mike BELLM has a good web site with lots of info. Proper headspacing in a break-open gun is different than a bolt gun. Alot easier with a break-open to use a rimmed cartridge and headspace off the shoulder.

[j20owner]

Ok, great info here guys, just what I'm needing to look out for and check when I do get back to look at it.

[j20owner]

Did a little searching and I've found a company called Match Grade Machine. They show that .218 Mashburn is available, and I can get a 21" barrel for $345. Is this a good company to deal with if I go this route?

[Gunfixer]

While I dont own one, I have shot MGM barrels---GOOD!. Now just to add to the fun, There are 4 variations of old contender frames. #1 original, solid hammer spur, R/C selector must be turned with a small screwdriver ( not a good candidate for BIG Kickers) #2 Hollow hammer spur, square push button safety, still need the screwdriver for R/C. #3 Hollow spur, square button safe, EASY OPEN, pivot pin moved, still need screwdriver.. #4 solid spur, selector/safety on top of hammer, easy open, available blue or SS.
I have 1 each of # 2,3,4. I got rid of my #1 because I like cannons. 375 win, 375 JDJ, 444 marlin, 45-70 but I like others too 22 K hornet, 223, 222, 30-30 Ackley

[leadman]

The "old" style Contender with the cougar on the side with the firing pin selector on the hammer seems to be the one most commonly for sale and the old style frame to buy in my opinion. The newer frame style(G2), is built similar to the Encore. Don't have a G2 but do have 3 old style Contenders and an Encore ProHunter.
The best trigger is on the old style Contender.

[C A Plater]

I only have one G2 frame and one Encore although several earlier Contender frames. These run the gamut of one of the screw pin selectors with an unmodified "hard open" to the last before they went to the G2. Both the G2 and Encore break open with more ease that any of the old style and it seems to me the carbine or rifle configuration makes it feel like it takes even less effort. My hands are large and still strong so none of that bothers me but if operated by a youth, female or arthritic hands it may be a better choice for them. The triggers on the original series are sort of a set mechanism and with some stoning and tuning can be magnificent. G2 and Encore trigger work differently and can be tuned but not to the level of the old style. They do allow the hammer to be re-cocked where the originals needed to be re-set by opening the frame.