Not bad mouthing Lee

[Topper]

I have had great luck with Lee molds until my last purchase.
I was able to fix it after casting a few bullets for lapping.
Used a drill bit to round the nose pour entry.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v342/Topper_1950/P2210002.jpg

Again, not hammering Lee, just want them to take note and inspect their work before shipping.

[Recluse]

Ouch. NO doubt.

I usually stick up for Lee in most cases, but in examples like that, I can't--and won't. But I've had "uglies" find their way to my shop from RCBS, Lyman, Hornady (especially Hornady) and others. How the manufacturer handles it is what speaks volumes to me.

Which is why I don't hesitate to buy Lee equipment, Dillon, or RCBS. Unfortunately, I can't say the same about today's Lyman company and for sure, about today's Hornady company. Damned shame, too. Have some old orange stuff on and around the bench and some old--and new--Hornady stuff. Will not be buying anything new from Hornady, however.

:coffee:

[Shiloh]

Is that just a surface flashing burr in the metal from a dull tool, or did it extend into the boolit base of the mold??

Shiloh

[TAWILDCATT]

what are all the scratches on the mold?did you lube.most of us understand you may have to do some touchup on lee molds but the price is far lower than any other.I payed $34 for my six cavity,how much is RCBS 4 cav how about Redding??
:coffee:[smilie=1:
is that before you "fixed it"just scrape the burr or use a deburing tool.

[armyrat1970]

I too love Lee equipment. I purchased a few Lee molds right before the end of the year after the Obama thing. 30carbine, 357 and 45. All of the sprue holes had burrs that I simply removed with a small pocket knife. The 30carbine drops good bullets. Haven't tried the 45 yet but have problems with the 357 with flashing. It is really visible right on the head of the bullet. Can look inside the mold when closed and see that it is not closing correctly for some reason. I tried to cast a few bullets after pre heating and lubing but could not get any that did not show signs of flashing. I can even feel it when I have the mold closed and gently rub the inside with a dental pick. I can tap one side or the other and it will line up but that isn't very practical when casting. I will clean it well, check for any small burrs on the v-ribs and cross pins, relube and try it again this Sunday or Monday. If I can't get it to drop a good bullet, it is going back to Lee. Also have a couple of 8mm molds from Lee that I have used for hundreds of bullets and they drop great bullets. The 45 seems to be closing right on and will try it also. Hope there's no problem there.
In toppers pics it appears he had something under the sprue plate. The outside tooling on the Lee Molds is not pretty but the picture shows a different problem.
The burrs or whatever in the base hole is really bad. Poor quality control on Lee's part.
Comparing Lee molds to others may be somewhat like comparing Rugers to Smiths. The finish on a Ruger may not be as pretty as the Smith but it is reliable, durable, performs and cost less. Not cheap, just inexpensive.

[Topper]

Comparing Lee molds to others may be somewhat like comparing Rugers to Smiths.
Agreed, but this was the first ever that I had received like this.
It will not deter me from purchasing again from Lee, was just kind of surprised that they let this one ship.
The gouging is probably from the sprue plate which I will disassemble later to examine.
As far as lubing, I always lube the guides, sprue plate screw, and use bullplate per instructions.

[armyrat1970]

Agreed, but this was the first ever that I had received like this.
It will not deter me from purchasing again from Lee, was just kind of surprised that they let this one ship.
The gouging is probably from the sprue plate which I will disassemble later to examine.
As far as lubing, I always lube the guides, sprue plate screw, and use bullplate per instructions.

Tried to remove the sprue plate on one of my Lee molds. It seems they must use locktite on the screw. Could not lossen it by hand. I did not want to put the mold in a vise and try to remove it with a rachet as it is aluminum. Maybe locked in a vise with a padding and a bit in a rachet would work. If you can remove the sprue plate please let me know how you did it. Don't want to screw up the mold.

[badgeredd]

Tried to remove the sprue plate on one of my Lee molds. It seems they must use locktite on the screw. Could not lossen it by hand. I did not want to put the mold in a vise and try to remove it with a rachet as it is aluminum. Maybe locked in a vise with a padding and a bit in a rachet would work. If you can remove the sprue plate please let me know how you did it. Don't want to screw up the mold.

Pre-heat the mold om a hot plate before trying to remove the screw for the sprue. They'l ususally come out fairly easily then.

Edd