Inexpensive thermometer

[Rockchucker]

I've been searching around a little looking for an inexpensive thermometer for my casting needs, and can't seem to find one. What kind do you use, and where did you locate it? I'm kinda at a loss one this one. My molds should be in some time this week and want to all my gear in order before I start. I have a digital one that only reads up to 500 degrees so it won't work.

Ron

[high standard 40]

I am experimenting with a thermometer I picked up at Walmart last weekend on red tag closeout for $9. It was designed for deep frying a turkey. It only reads up to 750 degrees but so far seems to be working just fine. I figured for the price I didn't have much to lose if it doesn't work out. It registers quickly but I have no way of knowing if it is accurate or not. I can use it to establish a base line though. I have used it so far to prepare 350 lbs of ingots & two different casting sessions and so far it has performed well. I don't however make the claim that it is the best you can buy. If you are on a budget, it may be an option for you.

Charlie........

[Rockchucker]

Thanks Charlie, I will check out Wally World tomorrow and see what they have in stock. I couldn't find any info online but also didn't look very long. I have two dial type thermometers that only go to 550 degree's. If I can find one that reads up to 1000 it won't be maxing out.

[mooman76]

You don't have to have a thermometer to cast. I think some people here get too hung up on them. The proper temp changes allot according to the mould you are using and the ouside temp too. Those that use them and it work fine for them but it isn't an absolute. I've been casting for close to 40 years and haven't had a need. If the leads too hot turn it down and if it's not hot enough turn it up!

[high standard 40]

When melting wheel weights I try to keep the melt under 700 degrees to be sure I don't run the risk of melting any zinc weights I may have missed in my sorting.
When casting I have been finding my best success running between 700 and 750. Your mileage may vary. I also agree with moonman. This is my first thermometer and I started casting in 1982.

[Ole]

I bought the Lyman one with my Cabela's club Visa points. :D

[runfiverun]

i have learned from an old timer to put a strip of paper on top of the melt and watch it curl and turn brown.
it worked for him, i use an rcbs thermometer.
don't care if it is accurate as long as it is repeatable.
i usually run my pots at 700-750.

[Recluse]

Heavy duty, industrial strength thermometer for $25 bucks.

http://usera.ImageCave.com/jdkinman/p21-1633-OC.jpg

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022707520132&item=21-1617-I&catname=

:coffee:

[high standard 40]

Recuse,
Do you use this thermometer? The specs say it has a 2 1/2" stem, is 1/2" NPT,
and is a "dry" thermometer. Does it have a probe to immerse into the melt or do you have to adapt it? That's a good price at $25

[Recluse]

I noticed that right after I posted the link. The thermometer I have has either a four of five inch stem. 2.5 would be too short for most pots/furnaces out there. They have thermometers with various length stems--just do a little browsing. Type in "thermometer" in the search area up top and it'll bring up a bunch.

But yeah, I bought a thermometer from this bunch quite a long while ago--paid something ridiculous like $14 including shipping for it. Conversely, the RCBS thermometer was going for something like $45 plus shipping. This thermometer I got is way heavy duty and a lot stouter than the Lyman and RCBS thermometers and for about a third of the price.

:coffee:

[Rockchucker]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=595204

I found this one at Midway this morning with a scale of 200-1000.

[Willbird]

You don't have to have a thermometer to cast. I think some people here get too hung up on them. The proper temp changes allot according to the mould you are using and the ouside temp too. Those that use them and it work fine for them but it isn't an absolute. I've been casting for close to 40 years and haven't had a need. If the leads too hot turn it down and if it's not hot enough turn it up!


When I got my promelt I just turned it all the way up and left it there. If you are willing to quench the mold sprue plate and mold body on a wet towel to control mold temp the hotter the better as far as I'm concerned. I would not go over 900f but few lead pots made these days will even come close to that.

Bill

[BPCR Bill]

My lee Mag 20 will go over 900 if you're not watching it. My Hoch 550 gr nose pour won't frost a bullet and rarely fins if the melt is too hot, so I have to watch it with a thermometer. Plus, that mold throws the best boolits at around 800 to 850. If yer doin match boolits that are big you need a thermometer. Smaller boolits seem to cast better at lower temps and don't show the weight variations like the big slugs.

Regards,
Bill

[Recluse]

My lee Mag 20 will go over 900 if you're not watching it. My Hoch 550 gr nose pour won't frost a bullet and rarely fins if the melt is too hot, so I have to watch it with a thermometer. Plus, that mold throws the best boolits at around 800 to 850. If yer doin match boolits that are big you need a thermometer. Smaller boolits seem to cast better at lower temps and don't show the weight variations like the big slugs.

Regards,
Bill

Agree.

I reloaded for a number of years before I bothered to get some calipers. After I got them, I wondered just how in the world I'd managed to reload without them for so long. Yeah, I did all right, reloaded a lot of rounds (was competing and shooting 500 to 800 rounds per week) and most came out all right. But those calipers give me an added degree of confidence, plus they're an invaluable tool on the reloading bench.

Same goes with my casting thermometer. Used to just crank it (the furnace) up and go. Now, like you say, for my bigger boolits--and especially long-gun boolits--I keep a real careful eye on alloy temperature. It's a variable that I can dang sure control, so why not control it?

It's definitely been well worth the $20 or $25 I invested in it years ago. And even today, you can get them for about the same price. If you cast, there is no reason why you should not have a thermometer. Doesn't mean you have to use it every single time, but you should have one. It eliminates one more faction of guessing.

:coffee:

[Willbird]

Agree.

I reloaded for a number of years before I bothered to get some calipers. After I got them, I wondered just how in the world I'd managed to reload without them for so long. Yeah, I did all right, reloaded a lot of rounds (was competing and shooting 500 to 800 rounds per week) and most came out all right. But those calipers give me an added degree of confidence, plus they're an invaluable tool on the reloading bench.

Same goes with my casting thermometer. Used to just crank it (the furnace) up and go. Now, like you say, for my bigger boolits--and especially long-gun boolits--I keep a real careful eye on alloy temperature. It's a variable that I can dang sure control, so why not control it?

It's definitely been well worth the $20 or $25 I invested in it years ago. And even today, you can get them for about the same price. If you cast, there is no reason why you should not have a thermometer. Doesn't mean you have to use it every single time, but you should have one. It eliminates one more faction of guessing.

:coffee:

I do have a type K thermocouple that I can use to measure temps, but I never use it :-).

Bill

[Flash]

Started casting muzzle loader mini balls back in 1973 on a Coleman camp stove. The kind that used white(unleaded)gas and had to be pumped. I never had a thermometer then and its certainly too late to buy one now.