Gearing up for 8mm Mauser

[Wolfdog91]

Welp got this lil guys a few months back. Why ? Me and my brother thought it was neat [emoji1745] anyhow been collecting bits and bobs for it since then.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/b88ce59147626c8362838df3d0f60e46.jpg
Got dies once fired brass and just ordered the mold. Really been wanting to try one of MP's silhouette molds and this one looks great ! Deal is it's a bit ..big
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/dd4a76668c3a34e9f0b175d8bc93eb68.jpg
It's dropping at .326 where as my barrel is slugging at .321
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/ead516056d04e0f38dbad0ec79946347.jpg
Buuut I really really like this design ( I can't stand most really big meplate bullets the MP silhouette profile is just [emoji7]) so said hay this is a perfect time to try my hand at nose sizing with the NOE system ...what will I side them down too ? Idk might try and chamber cast to get and exact measurements but after the fiasco I had with chamber casting my Mosin.....mehhhh might just not
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/78eae8b746bfdc3eb809a12971270327.jpg
Also looking at trying one of these on my die to help dial it in....also think I might be able to use my CBTO gauge [emoji848]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/e093567d416d680fff4d9793ea1071d8.jpg
Probably gonna stick with 15bhn and up along with powder coating and a gas check . Looking at Hornady data it really shouldn't be hard to get it in the sweet spot without going to some older more expensive powder options. Win 748 seems like it's gonna be a winner but 3031 has proven itself to me in a few other of my larger case cast deals so [emoji848]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/49595dad523db7265d1f0a2de87ac51c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/ab4ec3fda7e889cc2ee26fce5281563f.jpg
Also busted the stock up so gonna be putting it in a new boyds and I'm like the look of this one
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/efd5312bd96777d5c3a0036133e0d8c7.jpg

Should a fun lil deal to fiddle with

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[sukivel]

I enjoy the Mauser sporters as well. I recently bought one on Gunbroker and when I got it, it was in 30-06, but advertised as 8mm. Not what I wanted, but not too terrible.


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[Maven]

Wolfdog, The Lee 8mm CB casts smaller than the silhouette mould you showed above, somewhere around .323". The nose is likely to be a slip fit in your muzzle as well, meaning you won't have to purchase nose reducing dies either. While Win. 748 can be used in the 8 x 57mm cartridge, I think IMR 3031 would be a better choice as Lyman has reported hang fires with 748. (I experienced this as well.) Hope this helps!

[frkelly74]

So, just wondering,,, do you have a job? :bigsmyl2: No really I enjoy reading about your projects and your experiences here. 8mm was one of the easier calibers to get working well with cast, even before I got onto Castboolits. I found it easy to hit egg sized targets right away with the Lee 175 gr boolit and some Herco powder. I had an ugly 98 22 with Turkish markings that I got for almost nothing that really liked the loading I used. Wish I still had that one. Now I am down to my last two , both are turk 93 long barreled oldies. They will hit empty propane cans at 100 yds and are fun to shoot with my low recoil loads. Still using Herco.

[K43]

My first Centerfire was a mixmaster K98 from Interarms back as a kid in '69. I've got 4 now, and a couple with sewer pipes became something else.
Mine love the Lee C324-175 1R, GC and PC's to 180g. I never had luck with the "ya gotta shoot 198g J-word" myth, mine are all most accurate with Sierra 150g and 175g Pro Hunters and Hornady 170 SST. I'm pretty much a fast powder guy for the cast; Unique, 5744, Buffalo Rifle, Red Dot or Clays. Heavier bullets than the Lee and Sierras listed don't do better, just kick more.
Fun paper and deer whackers. Like the stock you picked - I have a Boyds thumbhole on one that started as a free barreled receiver. Don't laugh or frown, it's now a 270 W bean field deer poker.

[Texas by God]

More pics of the rifle, please!
Someone in the past did a lot of handwork on that military stock.
That K 98 should do well with cast bullets.
I just use the Lee 175 sized .323” with LLA or PC depending on my mood. My (my daughters) 29 Polish 98 sporter shoots this bullet well.
748 worked well in my 30-30, but that’s a smaller case than the 8x57. I’d go with the 3031.
I use Unique, 4227, 4198 or 3031 for cast in the 8x57. For jacketed, 4064 is my favorite.
If this is your first Mauser- you’ll be hooked!


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[K43]

I hit the "Love" button on everyone's' posts!

[Wolfdog91]

More pics of the rifle, please!
Someone in the past did a lot of handwork on that military stock.
That K 98 should do well with cast bullets.
I just use the Lee 175 sized .323” with LLA or PC depending on my mood. My (my daughters) 29 Polish 98 sporter shoots this bullet well.
748 worked well in my 30-30, but that’s a smaller case than the 8x57. I’d go with the 3031.
I use Unique, 4227, 4198 or 3031 for cast in the 8x57. For jacketed, 4064 is my favorite.
If this is your first Mauser- you’ll be hooked!


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https://youtu.be/r5S4B1C08J0

[Wolfdog91]

So like to say I ordered my old at like 1a.m and by 4 I got confirmation it's been packed and shipped sand apparently it's should be here by the 8th ! No is insane I swear [emoji44][emoji2962]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/8a803d3ad8246f588de6e450fb12d7d9.jpg

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[leadhead]

I shoot many 8mm Mausers and have used nothing but 2400 powder. (16-16.5 grains)
I can hit a 8" steel plate at 200 yards off of bags all day long. I use the Lee 8mm bullet.

[405grain]

This is a very timely post as I'm also getting a 8x57 Mauser ready. I've got an M38 Turkish action that I've sporterized. I'm using a new stepped military barrel that I rethreaded to fit the large ring/small ring threads used on Turk Mauser's. I've got a stock on order from Richards microfit, and a vortex scope waiting to be installed (I'll wait until after the stock is finished before installing the scope). I've already cast up and powder coated a batch of saeco 081 bullets (190 grain round nosed gas checked), and have a couple of bags of PPU brass. I can't wait to get this rifle together and try it out.

Wolfdog: even if you're replacing the stock on your new Mauser with a Boyde's stock, don't toss out that old sporterized military stock. Someone put a lot of effort into that old stock and it doesn't look half bad. The wood has a nice grain and all the stock furniture fits well. Yes, a Boyde's stock will fit and work a lot better, but you should either gift or sell the old stock to someone else because it's too nice to just gather dust.

BTW; if your bore is slugging at .3215 and your bullets are casting at .326, you only need to size them down around .0025" which isn't horrible at all. If you intend to powder coat them you might consider sizing them both before and after powder coating so that the task is easier. As for the nose - if that gets too fat, then there will be flaming hoops to jump through.

[waksupi]

8MM Mauser's should get more love from cast boolit shooters than they do

[sukivel]

This is a very timely post as I'm also getting a 8x57 Mauser ready. I've got an M38 Turkish action that I've sporterized. I'm using a new stepped military barrel that I rethreaded to fit the large ring/small ring threads used on Turk Mauser's. I've got a stock on order from Richards microfit, and a vortex scope waiting to be installed (I'll wait until after the stock is finished before installing the scope). I've already cast up and powder coated a batch of saeco 081 bullets (190 grain round nosed gas checked), and have a couple of bags of PPU brass. I can't wait to get this rifle together and try it out.

Wolfdog: even if you're replacing the stock on your new Mauser with a Boyde's stock, don't toss out that old sporterized military stock. Someone put a lot of effort into that old stock and it doesn't look half bad. The wood has a nice grain and all the stock furniture fits well. Yes, a Boyde's stock will fit and work a lot better, but you should either gift or sell the old stock to someone else because it's too nice to just gather dust.

BTW; if your bore is slugging at .3215 and your bullets are casting at .326, you only need to size them down around .0025" which isn't horrible at all. If you intend to powder coat them you might consider sizing them both before and after powder coating so that the task is easier. As for the nose - if that gets too fat, then there will be flaming hoops to jump through.

I would like to see your comments on that Richards microfit stock when you get it.


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[15meter]

I shoot many 8mm Mausers and have used nothing but 2400 powder. (16-16.5 grains)
I can hit a 8" steel plate at 200 yards off of bags all day long. I use the Lee 8mm bullet.

This, plus don't waste precious reloading cash on 8mm head stamped brass. 8 Mauser is one of the easiest to form from 30-06/270 Winchester brass.

If you haven't dabbled in case forming, this is the perfect place to start.

[405grain]

15meter: But I need my 30-06 brass for my 30-06! :D

[15meter]

15meter: But I need my 30-06 brass for my 30-06! :D

06 brass around here is usually left in the scrap brass bucket at the range. Come deer season you can pick up bunches of it.

8mm Mauser is almost never abandoned to the scrappers.

Personally have multiple thousands of 30-06, correct head stamped 8mm Mauser is, I doubt 200 total.

Got to be frugal where you can, this stuff ain't getting any cheaper. Or more available. ;-)

[K43]

Plus, the advantages of reformed cases. Reformed cases can be tailored to a slightly longish chamber and never worry about it. Mil-surp cases are tougher - ask my K43 that slams cases out 12 feet, puts major dents in commercial but not reformed M2, and stretches commercial cases above the web, but not the reformed mil-surp. It's a win for using LC, Greek and Korean surplus cases if you have them.

[charlie b]

I would like to see your comments on that Richards microfit stock when you get it.


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I have one on my HOWA action and it is really nice. Mine is a walnut stock of slightly higher grade. The fit was tight when I got it. There were a couple places that had to be worked on for fit, bolt recess, bolt release recess, magazine well rear section and one spot near the trigger. I also opened up the barrel channel a lot more (I like a lot of gap for cooling). The exterior dimensions are also left a bit 'fat'. I liked that because it means you can fit the grip to your hand. Took me about two hours to finish all the fitting.

Took a bit longer to get it ready for bedding and pillars. Drill press helped with that.

Finishing takes as long as it takes depending on how you want it done. Mine was hand rubbed polyurethane so it took a while :)

I would get another one if I ever need another stock.

Wolfdog, I like your new toy. I was looking for a nice Mauser when the HOWA's went on sale last winter.

[sukivel]

I have one on my HOWA action and it is really nice. Mine is a walnut stock of slightly higher grade. The fit was tight when I got it. There were a couple places that had to be worked on for fit, bolt recess, bolt release recess, magazine well rear section and one spot near the trigger. I also opened up the barrel channel a lot more (I like a lot of gap for cooling). The exterior dimensions are also left a bit 'fat'. I liked that because it means you can fit the grip to your hand. Took me about two hours to finish all the fitting.

Took a bit longer to get it ready for bedding and pillars. Drill press helped with that.

Finishing takes as long as it takes depending on how you want it done. Mine was hand rubbed polyurethane so it took a while :)

I would get another one if I ever need another stock.

Wolfdog, I like your new toy. I was looking for a nice Mauser when the HOWA's went on sale last winter.

That’s good to know. I have been looking at them for a couple of my Mausers.


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[405grain]

For some reason I'm not able to upload a photo of a pair of 98 Mauser's with Richards stocks. One is a 7x57 and the other is a 257 Roberts. My sentiments are exactly the same as charlie b above. The only difference between his stock prep and mine is that after 5 or 6 applications of hand rubbed polyurethane I then apply 2 coats of spray on gloss polyurethane. So far I've used Richard's stocks on 4 of my Mauser builds. (I used Boyde's on 3 small rings, and carved the stocks from a blank on at least 6 other large and small ring Mausers)

The stock that I currently have on order is much less fancy and will be more utilitarian. It's a safari rollover with no forend tip or grip cap. For a Turkish 98 action with a stepped military barrel this stock will be more or less an upgraded version of what used to be called a "truck gun". A good rifle for hunting in the field, but not one that will get much attention at the shooting range.

[Mk42gunner]

I'd try an unsized boolit from your mold in a dummy round first. That military barrel just may have a humongous throat. No sense sizing it down if it doesn't need it.

Robert

[Hamish]

https://youtu.be/r5S4B1C08J0

$300? That’s a dandy. D&T’d with bases is a bonus!

“Busted up the stock”. I certainly hope not, as has been said, that is a pretty nice example of home sporterising.

I mostly shot mine when i startedwith a Lee 175 and MML+ over a caseful of WC870, I’ve got,, I think, a Accurate 175, and an MP 175, and HM2, and a couple others, but it’s been accurate with most any combination i’ve tried.

I’ve got a bunch of 135gr 325008 NOE’s cast and lubed that need tried with probably 2400. Why should the .30 rifle guys have all the fun with the lightweight 008’s?

[Wolfdog91]

So my mold arrived the other day, crazy how j can get this in less time then it takes for the post office to get me something from the state over.
Anyhow now I need to order my sizer bushings, push rod and the stock...and a cheek riserhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240810/0c50a52f4e81e0a3cfc087e709e965bc.jpg

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[Wolfdog91]

$300? That’s a dandy. D&T’d with bases is a bonus!

“Busted up the stock”. I certainly hope not, as has been said, that is a pretty nice example of home sporterising.

I mostly shot mine when i startedwith a Lee 175 and MML+ over a caseful of WC870, I’ve got,, I think, a Accurate 175, and an MP 175, and HM2, and a couple others, but it’s been accurate with most any combination i’ve tried.

I’ve got a bunch of 135gr 325008 NOE’s cast and lubed that need tried with probably 2400. Why should the .30 rifle guys have all the fun with the lightweight 008’s?What happened was it got dropped and the for end that's a different color popped off , to be honest I really don't like it that much due to the grip and the actual just fatness of the military stock

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[Der Gebirgsjager]

Maybe somebody said it and I missed it, but your '98 Mauser is a Spanish Model 1943.

DG

[Texas by God]

Maybe somebody said it and I missed it, but your '98 Mauser is a Spanish Model 1943.

DG

You’re right! I missguessed it as a K98[emoji16]


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[405grain]

I didn't know that the action was a M43 Spanish, but I could tell that the military stock was. The dead giveaway is that filled in oval slot in the buttstock. The Spanish 98 Mauser's use a flat plate of steel for the rear sling mount. That piece of steel has a slot cut in it for the sling, and a hole drilled in it for a nail. A slot is milled into the side of the stock, the metal plate is stuffed into the slot, and then (before the metal butt plate is installed) a nail is driven into the butt of the stock which goes through the hole in the plate and holds it in place. (That nail looks like it was made by a 17th century blacksmith) I know all this because I used a junker M43 stock to make up a rifle from spare parts for one of my nephews.

[Wolfdog91]

Welp stock finally arrived and apparently....well ordered the wrong color but haaaayyyy I think I kinda like it lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240915/f3ac55c2e7eaf689ef8b3801e245d248.jpg

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[Shiloh]

I like the LEE C324-175 1R Double Cavity Mold.
Shoots well for me. consistent gong ringer at 200 yards.
I have the LEE heavy from Midsouth. about 240 gr. sits very deep into the case.
Only ones I have.

Shiloh

[Markopolo]

Welp stock finally arrived and apparently....well ordered the wrong color but haaaayyyy I think I kinda like it lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240915/f3ac55c2e7eaf689ef8b3801e245d248.jpg

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Oh…. My…..:groner:

[K43]

Well, real men can like pink of they want to. Then, if you change your mind, you can paint it or have it dipped and tell people it's a McMillan.

[lar45]

You will never loose that one if you lean it up against a tree in the woods.

I'm a big Mauser fan and have a pile of them. I used to have a bucket of just actions waiting for future projects, but they were in our shop fire and got soft as butter. ;(

I bought a Turk 8x57 20+ years ago to try my hand at doing all the sporterizing myself. It turned out fair and is a good loaner gun. My Turk barrel slugged at .328". I tried some Speer 150s and couldn't hold 12" at 25yds. I was going to junk the barrel, but some oldtimer here suggested I try a longer bullet to see if it could get a grip on the rifling and stabilize better. I tried some Speer 170s and it will hold 1.5" at 100yds. Good enough for a loaner rifle.

Chamber casts are very useful. So you might give it another go on this Mauser. The throats can be very long on some military chambers. I guess they used to use a long heavy round nose way back when, but then changed to a lighter spitzer bullet at higher velocity.

For doing a chamber cast, I clean and degrease the chamber and barrel. I take the barreled action out of the stock and get a bench vise with padded jaws setup to clamp on the barrel.
I get a tight patch on a cleaning rod and run it in from the muzzle until there is about 1" of rifling showing when you look down the chamber with a flashlight.
I then lightly clamp the barrel in the vise and heatup the chamber cast alloy. I use a clean Lee ingot mold so that I can pour out of the corner down into the chamber.
When the alloy is hot, I pour in a fairly fast smooth continous flow straight down into the chamber and fill until it almost gets to the top of the chamber.
Wait for the alloy to harden, give it a couple of seconds to solidify all the way through.
Take the barreled action out of the vise and bump the cleaning rod on the floor.
The chamber cast should pop right out.
Once it's cooled, take your measurements and write them down. Different alloy have different instructions and can grow over time at different rates...

Now you'll know what size the throat is and how long. You'll also have a really good look at the lands and grooves.
Another measurement to take is the front and back of the neck.
Some military chambers are cut oversized to allow for dirty ammo to be used in combat and still chamber and fire, without locking up the gun...
If you do decide to reform inexpensive 30-06 brass, the brass is thicker at the shoulder and top of the body when compared to the neck. So part of the shoulder and or body becomes the neck on your new case.
In a tight chamber, you might have to turn the necks to get the brass to fit in the chamber.
But in a sloppy Military chamber, the thicker base of the neck might provide a tighter fit giving your loaded round better alignment and better accuracy on the target.

Looking forward to updates and pics as your project moves along.

[Texas by God]

The pink makes the gray Pop!
Wait, I got that backwards.
Looks like a great bench stock- I kinda like it too….


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[405grain]

Don't let anybody give you static about the Hello Kitty stock; if you put a couple of rainbow stickers on it the look will be totally rad. I checked, and you can get a pink scope to go with it. With you're setup you'll never have to deal with those folks that don't like "scary" rifles. Heck, you can even get a set of pink Crocs rain boots to round out your hunting outfit - way better than that old "hunter orange". :kidding:

[Wolfdog91]

Welp got her in the stock and working on some new boots right nowhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240918/7d3ecafe72c4a94ae4d4c731bbcdee57.jpg

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[Wolfdog91]

So went and casted up some rounds from that lil MP mold I got. Didn't count but think I'm at like 50 something. Alloy was Lyman #2 from roto metals. Casted them @ 725°-760° had a bit of fluctuation according to my PID. Are cooled all these
Also tried using wood shavings on top of my melt, had a lot of people say saw dust is good to use once you get the slag off but my uncle next door has a 2' tal pile of these shavings by his planner so
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/48daa85f2da2c0a65774910cb4a4474c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/a71065aff43fbc4e442121825f9b15de.jpg
Just about all these ended up having a strange deal happen. Had to smoke the mold because it was being a lil finicky with full out around the nose of the bullet. But after smoking that went away, how ever.... Get a mirror shine on the top and frosting on the lower middle half . And this is one like 98% of them
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/d17abf515c38abc40bc451c80a8a336c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/582607fd875a355d62cb6137151ccd3a.jpg

As far as sizing as y'all saw earlier in the thread mine slugs out at .321 roughly so I got .322 and .323 busings , along with some nose sizers
Now these are dropping out at like .326 so going with the biggest first and I can always experiment later.
So initial gas checking and sizing
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/61402b213a58e562657a71a44862daa2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/b0e388e8f69ab229dd58a6dce3c2b488.jpg

And as usual after I get them all done I add some acatone to the bottle shake it up really well to get all the oils off then drain most of it before puttl them out to air dry
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/f95c427c496ba08ffec72b7b35d15945.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/c71b20f11ea16713504b4fe214ea356e.jpg

And next to an average .22lr
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/6f15128e7118c60559c30559ff4f047e.jpg

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[Pirate69]

A suggestion for maintaining the tin in solution.

As long as the tin is not oxidized, it will remain in a uniform concentration in the lead solution as elemental tin. If the lead solution is exposed to oxygen, the surface tin will become oxidized and float on top of the solution. The longer the exposure to oxygen, then more tin separated from the lead solution. Stirring will not put it back into solution. The tin oxide needs to reduced back to elemental tin so it can be remixed into the solution. I use the following approach. I maintain a thin layer of kitty litter on top of the solution to limit the exposure to oxygen. To recover any tin that may have become oxidized, I use the small Lee ladle and a small amount of tumbler media. Scoop a little bit and invent the ladle as you push it to the bottom of the pot. You will soon see gas bubbles coming through the media. This is carbon monoxide. It will strip the oxygen molecule from the ton oxide with contact and form carbon dioxide. Move the ladle around the complete bottom of the pot to get good bubble coverage of the top and through the whole solution. Once the bubbling stops (media has charged) stir the pot to redistribute the reduced tin back in the whole solution. The charged media will float to the top and become part of the solution cover. Just my way of doing it.




So went and casted up some rounds from that lil MP mold I got. Didn't count but think I'm at like 50 something. Alloy was Lyman #2 from roto metals. Casted them @ 725°-760° had a bit of fluctuation according to my PID. Are cooled all these
Also tried using wood shavings on top of my melt, had a lot of people say saw dust is good to use once you get the slag off but my uncle next door has a 2' tal pile of these shavings by his planner so
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/48daa85f2da2c0a65774910cb4a4474c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/a71065aff43fbc4e442121825f9b15de.jpg
Just about all these ended up having a strange deal happen. Had to smoke the mold because it was being a lil finicky with full out around the nose of the bullet. But after smoking that went away, how ever.... Get a mirror shine on the top and frosting on the lower middle half . And this is one like 98% of them
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/d17abf515c38abc40bc451c80a8a336c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/582607fd875a355d62cb6137151ccd3a.jpg

As far as sizing as y'all saw earlier in the thread mine slugs out at .321 roughly so I got .322 and .323 busings , along with some nose sizers
Now these are dropping out at like .326 so going with the biggest first and I can always experiment later.
So initial gas checking and sizing
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/61402b213a58e562657a71a44862daa2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/b0e388e8f69ab229dd58a6dce3c2b488.jpg

And as usual after I get them all done I add some acatone to the bottle shake it up really well to get all the oils off then drain most of it before puttl them out to air dry
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/f95c427c496ba08ffec72b7b35d15945.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/c71b20f11ea16713504b4fe214ea356e.jpg

And next to an average .22lr
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240919/6f15128e7118c60559c30559ff4f047e.jpg

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[Kosh75287]

Okay, that rifle ALREADY looks bad-@$$ed! If it shoots as good as it looks, then you're standing in some SERIOUSLY high cotton!!!
I have a scoped Vz24 (Czech) Mauser that makes me a better shooter than I really am. It likes bullets in the 170 - 190 gr. range best, but really does quite well with every bullet weight I have run through it.
This is one of those rounds for which it is not at all difficult to find a propellant that will work nicely in it. I got bet results with propellants with burn rates between IMR-3031 and Varget or IMR-4064. Frankly, I think it is more difficult to find a propellant that does NOT work well in 8x57 Mauser than to find one that does. There IS data out there, using IMR/H-4198 on the faster-burning end of the rifle powder spectrum, and data using the "4350" powders of various manufactures. Unless you wish to launch a light-for-caliber bullet at a high velocity (IMR/H-4198), or a very heavy-for-caliber bullet at whatever velocity your shoulder allows you to tolerate (the "4350" powders), I wouldn't waste my time.
I used to use 12.0-13.5/RedDot/200 gr. LRN-PC for a "general goofin' around" load. I also worked up loads using Unique and 2400. UNFORTUNATELY, since ALLIANT has ceased "purveying" propellants to the civilian market, I suspect that I'm due for many sessions of cast load work-up, using actually OBTAINABLE powders.

I'd bet that you are in for many hours of fun and enjoyment with your new (to you) acquisition! Just avoid trying to turn it into a .338 Winchester, and all will be good.

[K43]

Oh, there's a bunch of us 8mm diehards here. Wolfdog91 finally figure out what is "best". :awesome:

[charlie b]

The bullets. Those areas on the sides of the bullet indicate a really hot area in the mold. Not unusual in longer bullets. They will shoot ok, but, not great.

If you want to fix, it takes a bit of experimenting with mold cooling. I use a wet pad next to the pot. Pour and let the sprue harden (about 6 or 7 seconds). Then touch the bottom of the mold to the wet pad for a bit. It is usually 2 to 3 seconds. Then drop the bullets. Run a few and see if that 'rough' spot goes away. If it is still there cool for a bit longer. If you get wrinkles on the nose then cool a little less time. It can be a fine balancing act with some molds. I write down the 'cadence' for each of my molds to get the best results.

FWIW, if I just let the entire mold cool enough then the base does not fill out.

Yes, it is a little bit of a pain to do this, or even remember to do it, especially if you have a lot of different molds that you use.

PS I kinda like the color....but, if it were mine I'd paint it :)

[Soundguy]

if you add a gas checked and drop the bhn..the as cast size should drop from increased shrinkage. then size it...323 or so.

[Wolfdog91]

So after the initial sizing I went to powder coat these....aaaannnnnnd couldn't find any of the stuff I had seom smoke.... Allll I had was this. [emoji2961][emoji1785]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/39800b499d1cb4904d515165c6b46dfd.jpg
But said screw i gotta do what I gotta do. Place a order for more of smokes stuff but till then.... Decided bre heading the bullets would be the way to go
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/45b0af26769089c734efeb7c8b990639.jpg
Aannnddd ugh just such a crappy coating
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/e24c28006a3963767da04c1c1f769845.jpg
Tired hand tumbling using my vibratory tumbler , even messed with trying to see what would be the best temperature to pre heat but .... egh..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/dd6835160b6ebeed8ee546bac11c2fbe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/00a0e0b6385e61cc61fc7ea117da3089.jpg
End up doing like three coats
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/0e75509a96f8bd6f7f99203b54deb73b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/2de347777147a1f9c214f96165f8b8f4.jpg

Just terrible but they shouldnt do any leading
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/f6e67983fbc74cdf3830cbe7157b9926.jpg

Compared to smokes on the left
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/4b50bd33392cd58b13e7e2a1ae9a9715.jpg

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[405grain]

Wolfdog: I was casting some 225 grain 30 caliber bullets the other day in a Hoch mold, and I was getting a rough finish in the middle of the bore riding section on the bullets nose. This defect looked kinda like the ones on your bullets. After a little experimenting I found that this effect was not heat related (in my mold), but was a general character of the bullets I was casting. To correct this problem I tossed the defective bullets back in the pot and started pressure casting. (Not sure if this is the official term or not, but I'll explain what I was doing and other more experienced casters can correct me if it's called something else) When you are casting normally with a bottom pour pot the weight and momentum of the stream of alloy is what provides the force for the liquid metal to fill the mold. I was placing the sprue opening on the mold directly in contact with the spout on the bottom of the pot and filling the mold that way. With the mold in contact with the spout the "head", or weight of the metal inside the pot becomes the force that pushes the molten metal into the mold. It's a little tricky because you have to lower the mold away from the spout just a bare moment before you cut off the flow of alloy so that a sprue will form on the top of the mold. You need that puddle of metal on top of the sprue plate so that there will be some metal to feed into the mold as the bullet solidifies and contracts. Once I started doing the "pressure casting" the bullets from that mold came out perfectly formed. It's an easy thing to try next time your casting with that mold, and it will either work or it won't.

Do yourself a solid and and fling that Harbor Freight powder coat in the dumpster. Smokes stuff is awesome. IMHO flame red and signal blue are his best powders. Eastwood Ford Light Blue is also a proven powder for bullets, and works really good.

[Wolfdog91]

So just some brass prep. Bought 100 pieces of range brass from MOJO brass a while back. Went though and found 30 pieces of PPU.
Did have any factory ammo to fire form and get measurements off of so just sized them all and see what happens as far as cleaning. Wet tumbled in water and stainless pins for a few hours with some dawn. Usually use lemmi shine too buuut think the wife tossed mine
Then trimmed de burred tumbled in rice to get rid of any lil burs still
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/6fddd8b4ce996cc2eb813739fc9fc14e.jpg

So expanded the necks with a NOE expander plug (.324") had to change out my rice and the lil powder you get off of the new stuff made it pretty easy to see the expansion
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/833b86f049769adaf8b475f29b941a78.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/963612ff34de06798e3eb9b22ee647a9.jpg
And as you see the bullet starts in perfect. Can actually and seat these pretty deep if I wanted
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/4439e6407126fbee4eaf0fe8d5e08dd4.jpg

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[Wolfdog91]

And some of my first shots. Started late so I only did two loads. Load came from the Lyman manual....about the only thing that book is good for imo [emoji849][emoji1785]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240921/950cc154708f03065a47defed93927ea.jpg

And as usual cast loads barley do much as far as case fill. Expecting a good bit of un burnt powder considering using a filler already but not sure
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240921/0795404909aeea116003e427591c69ad.jpg
And for our COAL , custom as usual, just found jam and. Kept backing off but by but till I got a nice easy loading. I don't like hanging just because....well noting like having a bullet pull out and your chamber is full of powder
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240921/8692ab6b4031af84644f3089b9da3f44.jpg

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[Wolfdog91]

So two compliments I ALWAYS get when it comes to my load testing
1. I'm not shooting off of a bench
2. My magneto speed Chronograph that fits to the barrel

So I built me this lil bench a few weeks back. Actually not bad now that I have one that actually fits me. Yeah most benchs are not made for 5'1" tall people like me and honestly it makes me prefer shooting prone

And no magneto. Now honestly I've found in most of my other rifles it doesn't cause any problems but this thing has a really long pencil barrel sooo
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240921/568ad42251d4dbc2ddcf28faddf2fa73.jpg

Aannnddd our first group
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240921/12eeaf998cd3d22446501e829662024d.jpg

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[725]

I've always found a horizontal group tends to indicate an adjustment to overall cartridge length. Made a different seating depth will give you a "rounded" group. As always, I'm following your thread. good luck.

[Wolfdog91]

So went and gave her a cleaning, probably the first in along time .
One patch of Iosso....then I misolaced the tube so then two of JB bore paste , short stroked
Then dry patched for a bit
Two more of JB
Dry patches
Then a few of hoppes #9 traditional
Then dry patched till farily clean
Then alcohol patch
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240924/792203784cde21064db6ea4aa37eb097.jpg
Also had to get a new scope since the last one didn't have enough windage.....o happen to notice anything? Lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240924/c1f74db114c791d86383a7986700ab1b.jpg

Any how the groups
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240924/1e845379ec4f9cb67aaf38515b7bd453.jpg

I'm 100% convinced the three super UN even coats of this crappy HF powder coat are a large part of the problem. But at least I got a dect place to start on I feel with the middle load

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[gwpercle]

So after the initial sizing I went to powder coat these....aaaannnnnnd couldn't find any of the stuff I had seom smoke.... Allll I had was this. [emoji2961][emoji1785]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/39800b499d1cb4904d515165c6b46dfd.jpg
But said screw i gotta do what I gotta do. Place a order for more of smokes stuff but till then.... Decided bre heading the bullets would be the way to go
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/45b0af26769089c734efeb7c8b990639.jpg
Aannnddd ugh just such a crappy coating
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/e24c28006a3963767da04c1c1f769845.jpg
Tired hand tumbling using my vibratory tumbler , even messed with trying to see what would be the best temperature to pre heat but .... egh..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/dd6835160b6ebeed8ee546bac11c2fbe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/00a0e0b6385e61cc61fc7ea117da3089.jpg
End up doing like three coats
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/0e75509a96f8bd6f7f99203b54deb73b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/2de347777147a1f9c214f96165f8b8f4.jpg

Just terrible but they shouldnt do any leading
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/f6e67983fbc74cdf3830cbe7157b9926.jpg

Compared to smokes on the left
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240920/4b50bd33392cd58b13e7e2a1ae9a9715.jpg

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

When you get in a tight spot for Powder Coating ... just Pan Lube or Dip Lube the darn things ... I know this is hard to believe but Lubed boolits still work ...
I'm probably not supposed to say that ...
Gary

[Wolfdog91]

So got my order from smoke in yesterday and was able to make a new batch .

Lyman #2 725°-755° air cooled
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/dab8029354fd187409f2174fc518562b.jpg
then sized down ( and gas checked ) to .323"
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/c57ada68d7a408d6ef9d590f80e425e1.jpg washed them in some acatone, let em dry then ,tossed them in the tumbler with a signal blue and a lil bit of jet black. And Lord I missed how well smokes PC coated . Only five minutes in and
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/006a12d6dce1014e7d4006e602784a90.jpg
Now actually these aren't the best, originally tried pre heating the bullets and tubing them...buuutt headed them a little to hot and long story short I had to we tumble them for a bit to get all that off then threw them in the oven at 250° for a bit just to dry them out then back in the tumbler.
Anyhow got them coated tossed them in at 450 on the air fry function till they looked wet and shiny then dropped it down to 350 for about 10-15 then water dropped them
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/323877843af3d8827e580edcfe53bf76.jpg
Siz d them again at .323" just to be safe and even though these weren't perfect there still waaayyy better then that crappy Harbor freight crap
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/3631327903b60bc6abf36c0108b08093.jpg

So for today's test, honestly I said let me chill out a bit. I've been getting way too into this and freaking out , need to just have fun again. So just did three each this time . Also noticed the barrel gets pretty hot pretty quick so .... Maybe a bit better if i was able to wait long in between shots lol.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/2e20888b7f8011f64c4d0929285d2483.jpg
So what I did with these was I too the best shooting seating depth from the last batch and paired it with one of the better shooting powder loads
Right off the bare they **** better going from 3.5" to under 2" then I decided to keep the same charge and lengthen out the COAL ( shortened it due to the Three coats of the last powdercoat making the nose too fat ) still chambered well but mehhhh. So went back to the shorter COAL and jumped up in powder charge by .5

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/c7de4f1739d2587046a5344abf646d33.jpg

Aaaannndd

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240926/dc88f3443f04fd757db0c4152a042554.jpg

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[K43]

Yay!

[725]

Great development. Keep your stories coming.

[Wolfdog91]

So let it be known that ...I may be replacing my target chains soon. Lil clip from today , this thing gets down with some AUTHORITY!

https://youtu.be/o-5XbzqljT8?si=TwLpJUHRS6rSWLCM

[waksupi]

So let it be known that ...I may be replacing my target chains soon. Lil clip from today , this thing gets down with some AUTHORITY!

https://youtu.be/o-5XbzqljT8?si=TwLpJUHRS6rSWLCM

Aw man, you could have made that edge shot!

[405grain]

Great shooting! Good to see that you're getting both the rifle and the loads working better. I agree with waksupi; you coulda made that edge shot!

[siamese4570]

Don't know if you saw it nut the current issue of Handloader has a favorite loads article on the 8x57.
Siamese4570

[Good Cheer]

A good shooting .32 is oh so hard to beat!