9mm revolver loads - roll crimp or taper crimp?

[8shot]

Probably already know the answer and have both roll crimp and taper crimp dies for the 9mm. Bullet movement is more of a concern with revolvers so crimping the bullets properly is my goal. (S&W Model 986)

Want to experiment with Bayou Hi Tek bullets and have identified the 147 grain FP as one example, but will try the other weight/style Bayou Hi Tek bullets.

Since the bullet has no crimp groove, what is the recommended crimping procedure. With the Bayou 138 gr BNWC (with crimp groove) I give them a slight roll crimp and finish off with slight hit with the taper crimp die, because I have the Lee 6 Pack with six stations. BTW The Bayou 138gr BNWC in the 9mm revolver is a tack driver.

Any suggestions from you revolver shooters using lead cast bullets without crimp grooves?

[sigep1764]

Taper crimp. The 9mm case needs the case mouth to headspace on.

[steve urquell]

However you crimp it the first one should be disassembled and measured before continuing. Too much crimp leads to undersized boolits which will lead your barrel.

[hoodat]

Taper crimp will be fine. Especially if you load 357 or 358 bullets. jd

[Ed_Shot]

Taper crimp will be fine. Especially if you load 357 or 358 bullets. jd

^^^ What he said!

[8shot]

Taper crimp. The 9mm case needs the case mouth to headspace on.

Consider that the clips simulate a rimmed cartridge to obtain proper headspace in a revolver.

[8shot]

However you crimp it the first one should be disassembled and measured before continuing. Too much crimp leads to undersized boolits which will lead your barrel.

For discussion only, how would one crimp that 147 FP in a 38 or 357 case?

[steve urquell]

For discussion only, how would one crimp that 147 FP in a 38 or 357 case?

A roll crimp will do this to a boolit with no cannelure. The key is moderation to preserve the boolit size. Disassembly and measuring will ensure that.
327310

[sigep1764]

My experience has been with a Taurus 905 revolver. You could use moon clips, but the chambers were cut for the case mouth as well.

[Kosh75287]

I think I'd go with taper crimp, in case necessity dictates that you must use those reloads in an automatic pistol. That's unless the 9mm rounds are intentionally loaded hotter, for use in the S&W M986 revolver and might unduly batter a 9mm auto. In THAT case, I'd use a roll-crimp, so that they will be more likely to not function well in the autopistols.

[gwpercle]

The boolit dictates the crimp in 9mm Revolver ammo ...

If the boolit is smooth sided with no cannelure or crimp groove - Taper Crimp

If the boolit has a cannelure or crimp groove - Roll Crimp , but you do have the option here of taper crimping if you want to ... it will work just fine .

With that bullet you show ... Taper Crimp ...
and you can load it in 38 special & 357 magnum also and Taper Crimp it ...
I do it a lot with 124 gr . NOE Truncated Cone boolits ...the Taper Crimp holds just fine !

Gary

[foxtrapper]

Not 9mm but I load 45acp for a revolver. Taper crimp works just fine.

[lightman]

As a general rule I taper crimp for autos and roll crimp for revolvers. If there is no crimping groove I crimp just enough to remove whatever flair thats in the case mouth.

Back to your original question I would taper crimp them.

[reddog81]

More important than crimp, is making sure the bullets fit your cylinder throats. Crimp will kind of be irrelevant shooting 9mm in a 986.

[2TM101]

I shoot my 986 a lot - as it will fire all of my failed 9mm ammo. I got some of that 40+ year old "Shady Grady" powder and following published load data my G17 would not even cycle, let alone lock. It took what would normally be a dangerously high load to get the Glock to cycle, and even then no indication of overpressure on the cases. Resulted in my having a lot of low powered 9mm.

[Recycled bullet]

For the best results you should 1)make sure that the bullets pass through the cylinder correctly AKA size the correctly for the gun. The rest of this is completely nonsense if they are too loose or too tight through your cylinder. 2) using appropriate expander on the cases and they don't shrink your bullets. I like to use the Lee Universal expanding die with the Noe m style case mouth extender inserts installed. Set it so that the bullet sits in and is getting started into the case without removing the high-tek coating 3) seat and then crimp of your bullets on two separate steps. Seat the bullets. 4) to correctly adjust the crimp function of crimper run the ram all the way up, with the seater stem of the crimp die all the way out or removed, then you're going to tighten the crimper by hand until you cannot tighten it anymore because it is interfering on the case mouth. Now slightly lower the ram and rotate the crimper die one quarter turn then lock the position. Then check it. This should be good for an initial setup.

Please follow the steps then report back about how good the ammo is.

[243winxb]

Neck tension/Bullet hold more important then crimp.

Measure case before & after bullet seating. After seating, should have increased the outside diameter by .003" More is ok. (Hardball Alloy) Taper crimp to remove bell/flare.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/albums/taurus-g3c-9mm-luger.317/

Do the revolver jump crimp test.

[Dusty Bannister]

Consider that the clips simulate a rimmed cartridge to obtain proper headspace in a revolver.

Probably not to headspace, but to extract the fired case. While your configuration might work, it may also allow erratic primer strikes and variation of ignition of the powder. Do what you want, but keep the issue in mind if you have issues. The roll crimp might allow the case to be driven forward with the hammer strike, spike the pressure and get exciting. If the cylinder is cut to headspace the case, that should be a strong clue. Good luck and be safe.