Auto insurance who ya using?

[Handloader109]

I've had Liberty mutual since moving to Arkansas. 14 years. And only one auto claim on my pickup for hail damage. No wrecks, no tickets, nothing. Added a car a month ago and even though it is 5 years older than my newest, insurance was almost the same. $2400 a year for 3 cars, 2 drivers. Only used for pleasure, low mileage as we are retired... stupid expensive.

So I plugged into geico and progressive and same coverage, deductibles for the three end up at $1050 and $1250 respectively. I've used geigo a couple of decades ago, one claim which was handled well enough and progressive for a motorcycle for 6 years. No claims.
I'm not a vet. Has anyone hadissues with either of these companies lately?

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[Randy Bohannon]

None with Geico for twenty years, I too had hail damage and they were excellent.

[Remmy4477]

We dropped progressive years ago, no accidents or claims, kept going up each month! Hence the name progressive!

Currently Liberty mutual, 3 vehicles, ones a classic so we're around that $2400 mark a year. Liberty was the only one that would carry the classic for us at a decent price.

[deltaenterprizes]

I have had the same experience with Liberty Mutual but I have had a few claims on collision and comprehensive.
They were going stupid with the homeowners until I called and asked why it was so high and we made some changes and they lowered it considerably.

[slownsteady22]

Statefarm. 15 years. Car (3)and home,
2 car claims for hitting deer (2011 and 2012), last 2 years the rates keep going up. If it raises again ill be looking for new insurance.

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[Outer Rondacker]

Insurance is credit based. Bad Credit more money. Geico does not use credit as a base so same person with good or bad pays the same price.
I use geico for my work truck and beater car and its 486 every 6 months. Not bad for a f350 RACK and a beater.

[schutzen-jager]

state farm for years -

[Jack Russel]

USAA best rates i've found. Replaced a couple windshields,no problems.

[georgerkahn]

Insurance is credit based. Bad Credit more money. Geico does not use credit as a base so same person with good or bad pays the same price.
I use geico for my work truck and beater car and its 486 every 6 months. Not bad for a f350 RACK and a beater.

My credit rating, as of this morn, is 819. I still have my 2016 Toyota Tacoma, which I bought new in that year; one deer hit and one turkey splat (both >5 years back) as only claims; never had a moving-violation traffic ticket. My renewal -- I have been with Travelers for more than a decade -- ran $1,048.00 for the year. LAST year it was $902.00 -- UP $146.00! Interestingly, too, my wife bought a brand new Suburu Legend Limited, and one would think with all the "new car safety features" there'd be lower liability pay-outs for the insurance company -- BUT -- the premium on her car jumped but a few bucks less than $400.00.
For what it's worth, with a storm here or storm there -- horrific tornado and other destruction; flood here and flood there with the consequences of water; fire here and fire there -- I almost wonder HOW the insurance companies may even stay solvent? I somewhere read -- don't recall locations -- that in some states now, some companies will NOT write insurance policies. (And did I mention the mud-slides?)
geo

[kungfustyle]

We have Allstate now. For 20+ years with Geico in Florida and then they doubled our insurance premium, ZERO accidents or tickets. They claimed that Florida had over 70% of drivers driving without insurance.

[Wag]

Been using State Farm for many years now.

--Wag--

[compass will]

We have a 2023 f150 power boost and a 2013 mistang mach e. 2 windshild glass clames in florida.no tickets, great credit, drive each about 6000 miles per year. I've been with allstate for 40 years in pa than florida. Allstate was 2250 per 6 months, and progressive was 875 for the same coverage. Easy choice to make. Progressive has had my motorcycles since 35 years, and they have my boat and rv as well

[MUSTANG]

USAA for 3 decades. Not the cheapest; but they have paid without question on Hail Damage. Been superb for the houses.

Reason why new vehicle insurance is going through the roof is because of all the sensors and electronics on them. A front end hit by Deer or Parking lot fender bender can literally total the Vehicle now because of costs to replace those sensors when added to the body damage.

[pworley1]

In the 50+ years I have been paying home and car insurance I have discovered that the agent you have is much more important than the brand.

[rockrat]

State Farm for 50+ years.

[Mr Peabody]

Another State Farm, though they have started raising rates too.

[MrWolf]

Geico for about 20 years. I pay my Father's auto insurance through them and his car is much older than my truck and his premiums are a lot more than mine. Age and location really cause the premiums to increase.

[Thin Man]

We are looking for a new carrier for our home and autos. We have been using Safeco for several years but their rates are quickly rising by big numbers. I found it was the agents doing this more than the company itself. It seems that local agents have authority to juggle rates at will.

Many years ago we were with Allstate when we found a water leak in the house. A water diverter on our refrigerator had failed and sprayed the wall behind it. Floor was soaked when we found the source of this leak. Shut off the leak and called the company, also told the call taker we were seeing dark spots under the vinyl kitchen floor covering. The call taker began shouting "That's mold! We don't cover that!" over and again. I asked for their inspector to drop by and his first words were "Sure looks like mold to me." We agreed to cut open the vinyl to see what was going on under it. We found the top thin layer of flooring was installed with screws (or nails) and the top of these were heavily rusted. The rust was the dark spots. Then began the replacement values the agent placed on our construction materials. It took us 11 months of negotiating with him to get a settlement, and that only because his superiors warned they would fire him if he did not close the case within a year. We got the settlement and quickly changed insurance companies. So now, here we go again.

[Rapier]

Suggest that you Do not ask insurance buyers for data, they know no more than you do, ask the folks that actually get paid, who it is that pays them the best and is easiest and fairest to deal with as a damage repair person, medical service provider, etc. Then buy that insurance.

I am a tree farmer today, only because I retired after 52 years as the owner of three property and casualty Insurance agencies, on the beach, in FL, a very interesting series of decades. My personal program is based on the actual service provided not on buyers opinion and the service can vary by location, greatly.

[TJF1]

State farm for over 60 years 4 house and a pickup

[Hogtamer]

usaa for 3 decades. Not the cheapest; but they have paid without question on hail damage. Been superb for the houses.

Reason why new vehicle insurance is going through the roof is because of all the sensors and electronics on them. A front end hit by deer or parking lot fender bender can literally total the vehicle now because of costs to replace those sensors when added to the body damage.
!!!! This !!!!!!

[Handloader109]

Well, thanks, guys. I'll never use allstate again, had home and car from them in the late 90s, and had one theft, and then a lightning strike about 6 months later and they dropped us like a rock. I've had good experience with Liberty, they paid out to replace roof about 18 months ago and it cost them a lot (hail) and I'll keep paying for their homeowners insurance during to that, but the cars hurt a lot. And extra $100 odd a month is not easy to accept.

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[perotter]

Geico for the last 15 years and I've had zero claims ever. The 1st increase in price was a couple of months ago, went up $120 a year.

While I got it by the online method, having a good independent insurance agent is a real good idea.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Geico for the last 15 years and I've had zero claims ever. The 1st increase in price was a couple of months ago, went up $120 a year.

While I got it by the online method, having a good independent insurance agent is a real good idea.

Me too.
Geico for more than a decade, no claims, Last year they raised rates more than 30%. I checked around before I sent them a check, seems everyone went up. If they raise it again, I will look harder for a new carrier.

[abunaitoo]

liberty mutual is the worse.
Even state farm is better.

[ascast]

Progressive for about 15 years. About $1000 per year for 4 vehicles, all older -'05,'99,'87,'67. Never filed any damages as vehicles are throw away by design. Progressive is owned by George Soros so I will change one day soon.

[Adam Helmer]

I had State Farm for 10 or 12 years and then discovered Erie in my hometown. My same coverage for an F150 and a Honda went DOWN 50%. My Ranger was $500 a year and Markel gives the same coverage for $180 per year. My Farm policy was $1,800 per year for house, barn, outbuildings., etc. was $1,100 last year.

Shop Around! It does pay. This is a very good Post; thank you.

Be well.

Adam

[Ithaca Gunner]

I just dumped State Farm for raising the rates too much too often, no accidents, no claims. Just about a $50.00 raise for them every 6 months. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but our old agent retired about 2 years ago and now the office is run by a yuppy type woman. I went with Erie, they copied my policy and now I'm paying almost half of what State Farm charged me.

[Electrod47]

In the 50+ years I have been paying home and car insurance I have discovered that the agent you have is much more important than the brand.

You hit the nail on the head!!

[Idaho45guy]

In the 50+ years I have been paying home and car insurance I have discovered that the agent you have is much more important than the brand.

Like most folks these days, I'm my own agent. I am perfectly capable of spending an hour or so every couple of years shopping around to get the best rate.

That's the key. I rotate between Geico, USAA, and Progressive for the best rate/coverages.

[crowbuster]

another vote for erie. good local agent ta boot !

[scattershot]

USAA for 50 years, absolutely no complaints. Excellent service.

[warren5421]

USAA under $1000/year for a million/acident when most only do $300,000/acident as the state requires. I used several different companies over the years till my son, insurance adjuster, convinced me to call USAA.

[Outpost75]

USAA best rates i've found. Replaced a couple windshields,no problems.

USAA Half Century Member. Both home and auto. One house fire, one tornado two cars totalled when struck by drunk drivers. No complaints.

[Beerd]

anybody use HAGERTY for 'vintage' car insurance?
..

[winelover]

anybody use HAGERTY for 'vintage' car insurance?
..

Been using Hagerty for at least 25 years on my 1972 Chevelle SS. No complaints, not costly. Not many raises. Those that are, are minimal and a result of them suggesting raising the vehicle's worth.

For my other three vehicles and house, we use an independent broker. We've had EMC, Safeco, and Travelers, over the years. EMC quit insuring private individuals in Arkansas.

[Rickf1985]

Hagerty covers all my cars except for the one daily driver. They even cover my 06 Mustang GT. The price I pay for three pickups and two antiques cars plus the Mustang is less that just the Mustang alone was costing me with Allstate!! But even Hagerty is going up now.
You have to remember we have had several very damaging hurricanes that wiped whole towns off the face of the earth PLUS several fires that have done the same thing. SOMBODY is going to pay for all of that, the insurance is not going to take a loss for the shareholders.

[lightman]

I've been with Farm Bureau for 30 something years. House, autos, Polaris side-by-side, tractor, trailers, umbrella policy. Theres a lot to be said for having a good agent. Mine was a shooting buddy, assistant Scoutmaster and hunting buddy. Is so much better than the Allstate that we had before.

[.429&H110]

Moved from AK to AZ 7 years ago.
Had an "uninsured motorist" claim in NH 1999 that is never forgotten
(Stolen Grand Am destroyed my Tercel wooda been cheeper not to claim it)
(I have paid back that claim twice over through raised rates)($3000?)

Anyway, shopping for AZ insurance was sad until I found the local Allstate agent. She insures old folks who never go anywhere. She transferred my AK Allstate to AZ with my zero AK claims for about what I paid in AK, half of what typical AZ demolition derby drivers pay. Ever wonder why everybody in AZ drives a new truck? They total themselves every three years. Who buys the truck? We do.

And Tucson averages a pedestrian a day, DRT.

[white eagle]

credit score is 848 - 853 depending
American Family for all my insurance needs though that may change

[Randy Bohannon]

Funny this subject came up, I had Geico until today. I had been divesting from Wells Fargo Bank and have new Acct’s at First Interstate that is a local Bank.
Called Geico this am to change banks for payment their response was less than encouraging. “ We don’t do business with small banks” , their web site is horrible. New insurance now is Farm Bureau Credit a wee bit more expensive but it’s here in town, I have my home owners insurance with them and a nice savings on both.

[Outer Rondacker]

Im a unicorn as in 0 credit score. I have never had a CC or a loan. I do not exists in the credit world at all. This is the only reason I use Geico.

In the old world this was good in today's world its bad.

[jdgabbard]

As someone who deals with insurance claims every single day on the legal end of things (and have been in this business for years), I will tell you this. If you have Allstate or USAA and you get into an accident for which you are at fault, they will get you sued. They can be OK to work with if its a 1st Party claim. They are absolutely the worse "large insurance companies" to deal with. Even being a Vet, I will never use USAA after seeing the way they treat claimants.

That said, my short list for companies that are actually good to deal with both for 1st Party and 3rd Party claims are as follows:

Progressive
Geico
Farm Bureau
OK Farm Bureau
Farmers
OK Farmers & Ranchers
American Farmers & Ranchers
Traders
Nationwide
Encompass (I say this with reservations, as it is owned by State Farm - but this is who I currently have, was Progressive prior to this)


My Short List of Insurance companies I would NEVER do business with, these are terrible companies when it comes to handling claims - literally what you bought the insurance for:

USAA
Allstate
State Farm
Mercury Ins
Save Money Car Insurance
First Chicago
United Security Health & Casualty
Casualty Corp
Shelter
Old American
Root
The Hartford
Safeco / Liberty Mutual
Gainsco
And lastly ANY Insurance Agency that shops around for the best policy from multiple Companies.

Again, I deal with insurance claims for a living, and see many more claims than likely anyone else on this board, which ones are good and which one are bad. By that I mean I handle approximately 20-30 insurance claims a week, and have done so for approximately 15 years. I'd say that makes me well qualified to submit my opinion. But, we all know that one internet-expert... So if you don't believe me that's your prerogative.

[jdgabbard]

anybody use HAGERTY for 'vintage' car insurance?
..

They're decent. Just make sure you raise your "Stated Value Policy" as the value of the car increases. Doesn't matter if it's worth $56k if your policy is only a State Value Policy of $35k. It's only going to pay $35k.

Had a guy a while back with that problem, nothing I could do to help him out....

[jdgabbard]

In the 50+ years I have been paying home and car insurance I have discovered that the agent you have is much more important than the brand.

This is TERRIBLE advice. Your agent is nothing more than a cashier at Big Box Mart. They have absolutely ZERO to do with the claims process. They're just there to ring out out at the register....


Suggest that you Do not ask insurance buyers for data, they know no more than you do, ask the folks that actually get paid, who it is that pays them the best and is easiest and fairest to deal with as a damage repair person, medical service provider, etc. Then buy that insurance.

This the smartest comment in the thread thus far. You buy insurance to "take care of your problems". The ones that do this without giving you more problems are the ones you want to deal with.

FYI, I posted a list above about which ones in my opinion are the easiest to deal with...and the worst to deal with...

[higgins]

You might check prices on bundling all of your insurance with one company. It may not save you a lot of money but it makes dealing with your insurance carrier a lot easier.

[Idaho45guy]

As someone who deals with insurance claims every single day on the legal end of things (and have been in this business for years), I will tell you this. If you have Allstate or USAA and you get into an accident for which you are at fault, they will get you sued. They can be OK to work with if its a 1st Party claim. They are absolutely the worse "large insurance companies" to deal with. Even being a Vet, I will never use USAA after seeing the way they treat claimants.

That said, my short list for companies that are actually good to deal with both for 1st Party and 3rd Party claims are as follows:

Progressive
Geico
Farm Bureau
OK Farm Bureau
Farmers
OK Farmers & Ranchers
American Farmers & Ranchers
Traders
Nationwide
Encompass (I say this with reservations, as it is owned by State Farm - but this is who I currently have, was Progressive prior to this)


My Short List of Insurance companies I would NEVER do business with, these are terrible companies when it comes to handling claims - literally what you bought the insurance for:

USAA
Allstate
State Farm
Mercury Ins
Save Money Car Insurance
First Chicago
United Security Health & Casualty
Casualty Corp
Shelter
Old American
Root
The Hartford
Safeco / Liberty Mutual
Gainsco
And lastly ANY Insurance Agency that shops around for the best policy from multiple Companies.

Again, I deal with insurance claims for a living, and see many more claims than likely anyone else on this board, which ones are good and which one are bad. By that I mean I handle approximately 20-30 insurance claims a week, and have done so for approximately 15 years. I'd say that makes me well qualified to submit my opinion. But, we all know that one internet-expert... So if you don't believe me that's your prerogative.

Interesting.

As a former Auto Claims Adjuster for USAA from 2007 to 2013, I have to say that I disagree with your assessment. In the thousands of claims and liability decisions I handled while there, I can only recall a handful that escalated to litigation. I prided myself on being absolutely fair and arbitrary when it came to assessing liability and determining who was at fault.

Now, it has been 11 years since I worked there, so I will have to defer to your recent experience. Could you please elaborate as to what kind of practices you've seen USAA adjusters engage in that would expose their customers to legal jeopardy?

[jdgabbard]

Interesting.

As a former Auto Claims Adjuster for USAA from 2007 to 2013, I have to say that I disagree with your assessment. In the thousands of claims and liability decisions I handled while there, I can only recall a handful that escalated to litigation. I prided myself on being absolutely fair and arbitrary when it came to assessing liability and determining who was at fault.

Now, it has been 11 years since I worked there, so I will have to defer to your recent experience. Could you please elaborate as to what kind of practices you've seen USAA adjusters engage in that would expose their customers to legal jeopardy?

Afternoon, evening... I'm just now getting to the point that all my senses aren't cluttered by the pain meds. I can't really discuss a lot of things, as they're dealing with privileged information. Lets just say a LOT of violation of the Unfair Claims Settlement Practices ACT, and a whole lot of exposing their insureds due to improper liability determinations. The problems with adjusters is many times they're non-attorneys trying to act like they know the law, but have absolutely no idea how it actually applies under specific circumstances.

If you'd like to talk a bit more details through PM, I'd be happy to discuss the topic further. The problem is that I obviously can't share privileged information on client's cases.

[MT Gianni]

Been real happy with Costco Insurance program. I was at fault in an accident and have hit a deer and an elk in the last 15 years. you talk to real people who deal with you fairly. It might help that Montana's Constitution gives you the right to take your car to the shop you want to.

[Ithaca Gunner]

Here's a different view, I worked 9 years for a very busy body shop in the Harrisburg PA region. Now, it's been 15 years since, however at the time USAA, State Farm, and Erie were always a pleasure to work with. On newer cars and trucks, it was OEM parts, (read, original factory parts that fit!). Farmers, Liberty Mutual, Hartford, Met Life, Geiko and a few others were okay... They would specify used parts a lot, but still OEM. Nationwide was bareable, their adjusters were at least reasonable to work with. The worst of the big insurance firms were All State and Progressive, with Progressive being at the bottom of the barrel specifying cheap made in china garbage parts that didn't even come close to fitting right!

In the case of a person with good insurance being hit by someone with garbage insurance specifying chinese parts we advised them to go to their insurance company to sue the other company for OEM parts. Why pay for good insurance only to be hit by someone with bad insurance and have your new car/truck repaired with chinese junk? All State and Progressive always fought tooth and nail to repair as cheaply as possible. Neither were, ''blue ribbon'' partners of our shop. We kept a ''blue ribbon'' status with most other companies because they didn't put up a fight about fair repairs if their insured was at fault and the injured had good insurance, most times they simply agreed to fix the car according to the injured's insurance specs. The ''not at fault's'' insurance would pay us then go after the, ''at fault's'' insurance for payment. Choose a good body shop that's on YOUR side and read carefully the repair estimate. If an older car, you'll probably have to deal with used and some after market parts, (used OEM is better than new after market in my opinion). OEM=new factory original manufacture. LKQ=like kind and quality, (used OEM salvage part). AM=new aftermarket garbage. In most states, if you're not at fault, you do not have to settle for what the at fault driver's insurance specifies just to save themselves money.

[Rapier]

This is the reason you ask the service providers where you live.

[farmerjim]

GEICO for the last 35 years. The one claim in that time was handled with no problems.

[jdgabbard]

Been real happy with Costco Insurance program. I was at fault in an accident and have hit a deer and an elk in the last 15 years. you talk to real people who deal with you fairly. It might help that Montana's Constitution gives you the right to take your car to the shop you want to.

My understanding is most states allow you to choose the shop of your choice. The only gotcha is you could be responsible for overcharging. Some states have case law on the books that allow insurance companies to only pay for rates that are consistent with standard market rates for the repair. Oklahoma is one of those states. You chose a shop that charges twice as much because they claim they're the best, you'll get stuck paying a portion out of pocket for something you weren't responsible for. You can fight it, but the problem is the cost of doing so typically outweighs any benefit you would see - assuming you'd win at all, which is not a good chance going in. So you're definitely playing a rigged game if you want to do so. This is one area that I actually do agree with the insurance companies, find out which shops they have agreement with and chose one of those. If they screw something up they have agreements to go back an fix it, otherwise they stop getting sent work by that shop.

That said, I'll have to look into Costco's program, I'm not familiar with it. But I'm also not a member of Costco...


Here's a different view, I worked 9 years for a very busy body shop in the Harrisburg PA region. Now, it's been 15 years since, however at the time USAA, State Farm, and Erie were always a pleasure to work with. On newer cars and trucks, it was OEM parts, (read, original factory parts that fit!). Farmers, Liberty Mutual, Hartford, Met Life, Geiko and a few others were okay... They would specify used parts a lot, but still OEM. Nationwide was bareable, their adjusters were at least reasonable to work with. The worst of the big insurance firms were All State and Progressive, with Progressive being at the bottom of the barrel specifying cheap made in china garbage parts that didn't even come close to fitting right!

In the case of a person with good insurance being hit by someone with garbage insurance specifying chinese parts we advised them to go to their insurance company to sue the other company for OEM parts. Why pay for good insurance only to be hit by someone with bad insurance and have your new car/truck repaired with chinese junk? All State and Progressive always fought tooth and nail to repair as cheaply as possible. Neither were, ''blue ribbon'' partners of our shop. We kept a ''blue ribbon'' status with most other companies because they didn't put up a fight about fair repairs if their insured was at fault and the injured had good insurance, most times they simply agreed to fix the car according to the injured's insurance specs. The ''not at fault's'' insurance would pay us then go after the, ''at fault's'' insurance for payment. Choose a good body shop that's on YOUR side and read carefully the repair estimate. If an older car, you'll probably have to deal with used and some after market parts, (used OEM is better than new after market in my opinion). OEM=new factory original manufacture. LKQ=like kind and quality, (used OEM salvage part). AM=new aftermarket garbage. In most states, if you're not at fault, you do not have to settle for what the at fault driver's insurance specifies just to save themselves money.

A lot of that depends on what your State laws allow for, not the insurance companies. Oklahoma specifies that insurance companies may use "like parts", unless they're not available. In which case they can use new non-OEM parts or new OEM parts. How much the insurance company fights you on this is obviously something that determines how easy they are to deal with. But generally speaking, they don't get to just pick and chose what they want to do. The law lays out what they're allowed to do.

As for using your own insurance, there is more than just that reason to do so. Everyone thinks that their rates will go up, or "my insurance shouldn't have to pay", etc, etc... That's not necessarily the case. Most states have laws that prevent insurance companies from raising your rates due to using a policy for which you purchased a coverage and were not at-fault. What causes your rates to go up is your "risk factor". They use software to calculate the likelihood of you being in another accident, and your insurance having exposure. They are a business, and paying out money isn't how you make money. Using this "likelihood" they can determine what your rates are. The simple fact that you have been in an accident makes it more likely that you'll be in another statistically speaking. Don't ever let your agent tell you otherwise, they don't know what they're talking about. Check with your State Insurance Compliance Agency to find out what they're allowed to raise your rates for, and if they tell you otherwise when you use them file suit. But the best part of using your own insurance in a situation like this is that there is 1) No wait to get the ball moving (you have a contract for coverage - if they wont move forward you could have a bad faith claim), and 2) They'll subrogate back from the other insurance company (get paid back from) - even getting your deductible back in most cases.

Another reason you might want to do this, is most States have rules that you, regardless if you were at fault or not, must mitigate damages. Meaning that if your car is in storage, unless you're incapable of mitigation, you have a duty to get the vehicle out of storage and put it in a place where you can maintain control until the claim is resolved. Not doing this means the insurance may refuse to pay for some of those storage fees, or if the vehicle is ultimately auctioned off after 30-60 days (however long they have to wait in your state to deem it abandoned) they may only be required to pay for whatever the cost to repair it was or if a total loss the Owner Retained value of the vehicle (Fair Market Value of the vehicle - Salvage Value = Owner Retained). Using your own insurance allows you to avoid the delay, thereby mitigating your own damages. If you don't have rental coverage, pay out of pocket. Most states allow you to be reimbursed for the cost of renting a comparable substitute.

Keeping mind I live/work in Oklahoma, and mostly deal with our own laws. But I have seen and handled claims from throughout the country (where a decent sized firm that handles thousands of new cases a year, and I'm the guy that gets liability established and property damage claims moving). But just because I have experience in other states, every state changes laws every year. And I'm by no means an expert on all of them. And will not give you legal advice, which none of this should be construed as. Find out what your local laws allow for, and make sure the other parties are doing what they're supposed to do. And remember, failure to be aware of the law is not a valid defense. You're expected to know it whether you do or not. So when in doubt, consult an attorney.

[Handloader109]

Thanks for all the advise. It won't ever be Allstate, farm Bureau or State farm (had coverage when under 21 and they were awful on a claim, and I had forgotten about my wife's incident with an idiot backing out of his driveway, almost had to take them to court as liberty was tough to work with that time. So most probably Progressive or maybe Geico. Flip of a coin.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

[skeettx]

State Farm - house, autos and at one time whole life

[Johnnybuck]

I've been with Progressive for a few years and haven't had any major issues. They were pretty straightforward with the claims process when I had to use it. It's definitely worth giving them a shot if they're offering you a good deal.

Since you're looking at insurance options, I'd also recommend checking into how these companies handle claims for special types of vehicles, just in case. Here's a link (https://www.a1autotransport.com/the-cost-of-transport-services-for-a-classic-car-and-the-importance-of-insurance-coverage/) that discusses the costs of transport services for classic cars and highlights why having good insurance coverage is crucial. It might provide some extra insight as you make your decision.

[Sig556r]

Doesn't pay to be loyal with insurance or any subscription for that matter.
They'd rather screw you with progressive incremental increases till you quit & then spend the money to win you back since their kpi metrics for new subscribers outweighs keeping existing ones.
A good analogy is in employment nowadays, loyal employees get crappy increases & are 1st in line for layoffs, while returning job-hoppers got better deals.
Sad but true.

[schutzen-jager]

State Farm - house, autos and at one time whole life

same here + never a problem with any incident in almost 2 decades - plus find that the agent we have will always go the extra mile if a problem happens - contrary to previous post, i really believe the agent does make a difference + is much more than a cashier -

[shooterg]

We dropped progressive years ago, no accidents or claims, kept going up each month! Hence the name progressive!

Currently Liberty mutual, 3 vehicles, ones a classic so we're around that $2400 mark a year. Liberty was the only one that would carry the classic for us at a decent price.

Tried Hagerty for the classic ? Not the only ones for that, but have been reasonable on classic/antique vehicles.

[porthos]

i have erie!! about 20 years ago; i lost a my buick lesabre on black ice and totaled it. the next leasbre got hail damage totaling $2800.00. about 5 years ago i rear ended another car with my gmc acadia. the damage to my car was $8500.00. don't know how much to the other car. my rates never went up!! have erie on home and car.

[Ithaca Gunner]

i have erie!! about 20 years ago; i lost a my buick lesabre on black ice and totaled it. the next leasbre got hail damage totaling $2800.00. about 5 years ago i rear ended another car with my gmc acadia. the damage to my car was $8500.00. don't know how much to the other car. my rates never went up!! have erie on home and car.

I'm with ya on Erie! Trouble is, they're only available in select states, not nation wide, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Maryland, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin—and the District of Columbia.