Panic in the casting/reloading room

[FISH4BUGS]

I was merrily buzzing along sizing/lubing/gaschecking my H&G # 237's (a fabulous 200gr swc 44 bullet - you can hot rod this bullet without breaking your wrists :) ) when the plug in the bottom of my Star sizer blew out. Not sure why, but it did.
I dutifully tried to screw it back in but may well have cross threaded it.
With Magma gone, i have no idea what to do.
Actually I know what SHOULD be done - chase the threads in the body of the Star and the plug itself.
I can't even boil water so I am afraid to try it myself.
Is there anyone out there that knows what the thread pitch is and could do this?
I'd be happy to pay you to do it.
HELP!
Donald
a/k/a fish4bugs

[rancher1913]

if the plug blew out your threads may be to far gone and the best bet would be to drill them out and use a helicoil, never used one for that but they should work

[FISH4BUGS]

if the plug blew out your threads may be to far gone and the best bet would be to drill them out and use a helicoil, never used one for that but they should work
OK....I'll bite.....what is a helicoil?
Don't forget....I have virtually NO mechanical ability.
Computers I can help you with but mechanical.......?????

[racepres]

Find the nearest Independent Harley Mechanic...Preferably Grey Bearded...He can definitely Fix That!!!
If I was Closer...a No Brainer

[Bill M]

I will caution that all the metal chips need to be removed. I used my Star for years, until it quit making pressure, I disassembled, cleaned, and found grooves worn in the housing. My best guess is it had metal chips from the machining process. (I can't imagine the lube was contaminated!) Fortunately Magma sold me another body, and I've been using it for years now.

[Harter66]

A heli coil is a coil pitched to match a particular thread that threads into a hole tapped oversized . If you have a 1/-20 for example the kit has like a 29/64" drill ,5/16-20 tap and 6 to 10 coils with a tool to install them .

Drill over size , thread , screw in the coil with the appropriate loc tite give it 30 min screw the new 1/4-20 screw or bolt .

If it is a straight thread often its just as easy to tap the next larger thread . If it is a tapered pipe thread 1/8" to 1/4" isn't bad but from there up there are a lot of bolt threads in between.

[FISH4BUGS]

This thing is truly screwed. I have done hundreds of thousands of cast bullets in the 30+ years I have owned it.
I know, in my head, that this is repairable but I don't want to try it.
How about a master machinist? It is full of lube (I had just put a stick in).
This just makes me sick....I can't size/lube any bullets now and Magma no longer exists.
I don't know what I did to deserve this.

[rancher1913]

if you get it cleaned up( all the lube out) any auto mechanic can heli coil it provide that idea would work. i dont have a star sizer so not sure what all the bolt does, a photo of the bottom and inside would help. just unbolt it from bench and turn it upside down over a heat source and let all the lube drip out, maybe some breakclean spray might help with the last traces, once clean you can see what your up against. anything can be repaired. if you cant find a local, i will give it a try, you would need to ship it to me and release me from any damage that may accidently occur in attempting to fix it. in the meen time place a want to buy in s&s for another one, remember the saying--2 is 1 and 1 is none.

[Winger Ed.]

Anybody that works on Aluminum engines can probably do it for ya.
Fixing a stripped out spark plug hole with a heli-coil is a pretty common project for them.

[rancher1913]

sometimes crap happens to good people, and i have a whopper of a story to tell if i make it through my trials and tribulations

[M-Tecs]

I was merrily buzzing along sizing/lubing/gaschecking my H&G # 237's (a fabulous 200gr swc 44 bullet - you can hot rod this bullet without breaking your wrists :) ) when the plug in the bottom of my Star sizer blew out. Not sure why, but it did.
I dutifully tried to screw it back in but may well have cross threaded it.
With Magma gone, i have no idea what to do.
Actually I know what SHOULD be done - chase the threads in the body of the Star and the plug itself.
I can't even boil water so I am afraid to try it myself.
Is there anyone out there that knows what the thread pitch is and could do this?
I'd be happy to pay you to do it.
HELP!
Donald
a/k/a fish4bugs

It's a simple repair if you have the knowledge and tools. Shipping both ways will be close to $50. Some options for different types of inserts here. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/threaded-inserts/threaded-inserts-2~/

I would first look for a small machine shop in the area. If it was a couple of months from now I would do it for you, but my shop is currently being moved around due to new machines being added.

Is the inspection screw damage also? #126 here http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/star_reloader_lubricator_resizer_partsom.pdf

[country gent]

A lot of the fix will depend on how bad the housing is? The length of the threads, How far they go in to the housing? The pitch of the threads? and last how much "room there is to work with. Im not familiar with the star, so .... If the housing has room a new plug could be turned and and the housing rethreaded to the new size. Or a threaded sleeve made and installed.
Heli coil recommends at least 1 thread dia of length.


If the plug blew out there is a good chance that both threads are bad and will need replaced. Not a big job to do both and you have a little room to work making both as a different thread pitch can be used if needed.

Pictures of the unit and plug when cleaned up would be helpful to offering help.

[dtknowles]

Three options, DIY, send out for repair, or sell and replace. I am thinking you might need to sell and replace; you don't seem to understand what is required to repair.
Tim

[Barry54]

I know nothing about a star. But it might be as easy as drilling and tapping to the next larger bolt size.

Pictures please...

[M-Tecs]

I know nothing about a star. But it might be as easy as drilling and tapping to the next larger bolt size.

Pictures please...

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/star_reloader_lubricator_resizer_partsom.pdf

[Rockindaddy]

take a photo of what part stripped out and post it. I have 5 Star lubricator-sizers. Have two machine shops. Should be able to figure it out.

[Barry54]

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/star_reloader_lubricator_resizer_partsom.pdf

Thanks. I love exploded views!
I wonder if the OP is talking about 126? The inspection plug on the side of the bottom. If so, I bet that could be repaired in a few different ways. A couple of wraps of Teflon tape might get it up and running again.

Would still like to see pictures.

[Bill M]

I can't look at mine until Monday, but I suspect the plug is pipe thread. I've never removed mine, I think it is intended to bleed the air out. Wouldn't make sense to have straight threads trying to seal pressure.

[Barry54]

I thought the same thing. That’s what made me think about Teflon tape. Plus I didn’t see an o-ring in the exploded view.

[Rockindaddy]

The brass plug at the base of the Star/Magma luber-sizer is a 26 TPI x .560" dia cleanout plug. When you remove a plug like that you must rotate the plug counter clockwise until you feel a "click" or hear it. That position is the lead of the thread. Then rotate the plug clockwise and the plug will engage the thread. This technique works most of the time. The plug seems to be an odd ball. My suggestion would be to inspect the plug and the aluminum base and see if the threads are damaged. If they are the easiest fix is a steel plug with a slight taper and a chased 26 thread per inch pitch. This steel plug if carefully screwed into the threads in the base should straighten up the cross thread and allow you to start the brass plug into the base. I could make up a 26 TPI tap for you.

[Shopdog]

Very slight tangent... but heading in a good direction;

Take the star with you to a real,not sLowes,Home Despot... welding supply store. Ask them for a name of any retired or small machine shops in your area. Show them the Star, it's lightyears faster than ANY attempt to explain the problem. Once they see you're not trying to circumvent? any uhh,how you say... large shops? They'd know who has the right equipment,as they probably sell gases to the guy. Don't call,go in middle of the week,look for the old guy.

Good luck with your project.

[racepres]

Very slight tangent... but heading in a good direction;

Take the star with you to a real,not sLowes,Home Despot... welding supply store. Ask them for a name of any retired or small machine shops in your area. Show them the Star, it's lightyears faster than ANY attempt to explain the problem. Once they see you're not trying to circumvent? any uhh,how you say... large shops? They'd know who has the right equipment,as they probably sell gases to the guy. Don't call,go in middle of the week,look for the old guy.

Good luck with your project.

I like This...Doubly Reinforce the "grey Bearded guy"

[45DUDE]

Heli coil kit has everything you need other than a drill and wrench. Measure the opening and get the next oversize. <metric-or fine thread>When I buy a press with old lube I turn it upside down with the plugs out -put in an oil drain pan and install a solder iron and walk off. The old grease melts melts out. Some people boil in hot water with washing detergent. If you can hold a drill straight you can do it. The old plug has threads-just take it to a hardware store and they will sell you the correct size kit. YOU CAN J.B. Weld it back in. It has to be clean and let dry overnight.

[racepres]

Heli coil kit has everything you need other than a drill and wrench. Measure the opening and get the next oversize. <metric-or fine thread>When I buy a press with old lube I turn it upside down with the plugs out -put in an oil drain pan and install a solder iron and walk off. The old grease melts melts out. Some people boil in hot water with washing detergent. If you can hold a drill straight you can do it. The old plug has threads-just take it to a hardware store and they will sell you the correct size kit. YOY CAN J.B. Weld it back in. It has to be clean and let dry overnight.

If You discover that you Can't..it just got Worser!!

[Finster101]

I do not know how the Star works, but I am not a fan of helicoils. Timeserts are a much better repair especially if that bolt gets adjusted or goes in and out on a regular basis.

[racepres]

I do not know how the Star works, but I am not a fan of helicoils. Timeserts are a much better repair especially if that bolt gets adjusted or goes in and out on a regular basis.
I quit using timeserts, with their Proprietary Odd Thread OD... Fastenall, offers same thing. Large or Small OD, with Regular Common Thread!!! But...In many Applications (certainly Room for OD) the Helicoil works just Fine!!

[William Yanda]

Several vehicles ago I had a brake caliper bolt that stripped. I used fine steel wool and red lock tite to make the bolt hold. That's how it went to the junk yard.

[Finster101]

I quit using timeserts, with their Proprietary Odd Thread OD... Fastenall, offers same thing. Large or Small OD, with Regular Common Thread!!! But...In many Applications (certainly Room for OD) the Helicoil works just Fine!!


Well, despite whatever brand is used I still believe an insert is a much more lasting repair if the bolt is removed and replaced on a regular basis.

[Bill M]

I checked mine, I'll need to get heavy handed to get the plug out, but enough threads showing to determine 27 tpi, and the diameter makes it 9/16. I've found taps for sale, and go-no go gauges for 9/16 x 27 thread.
It's an odd size!

[FISH4BUGS]

Three options, DIY, send out for repair, or sell and replace. I am thinking you might need to sell and replace; you don't seem to understand what is required to repair.
Tim
Oh, I certainly do understand. That's why i am reaching out.
To me, the Star sizer is THE most important piece of equipment I own. With Magma gone, I need to turn to those that know far more than me.
Like Dirty Harry said "....a man's got to know his limitations"..... and this one is waaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyy past my capability.

[FISH4BUGS]

Well, despite whatever brand is used I still believe an insert is a much more lasting repair if the bolt is removed and replaced on a regular basis.
I still haven't figured out what it is that we are supposed to be inspecting when the inspection plug is removed.
I the 30+ years I have owned mine, it has never been removed....not once.
Let's hope someone picks up the pieces of Magma and starts making them again.

[fc60]

Greetings,

Star were rather fond on the 27 pitch threads as their primary business was irrigation parts for the Citrus growers.

That brass plug may also be tapered.

I have machined a lot of Star parts for Star Machine Works over the years; but, have not been tasked to make a greaser plug.

Cheers,

Dave

[15meter]

I still haven't figured out what it is that we are supposed to be inspecting when the inspection plus is removed.
I the 30+ years I have owned mine, it has never been removed....not once.
Let's hope someone picks up the pieces of Magma and starts making them again.

My suspicion is it's to bleed air when putting in a new tube of bullet lube as opposed to just going back to lubing boolits under the assumption that the entrained air would eventually fart it's way out.

I'm of the "it'll make it's way out in it's own good time" school, never bothered to bleed any air out.

It could also serve as a drain hole if you are applying heat to clean it out for a change over to a different type of lube.

I actually pulled my plug out just to see what it was all about. If the threads did pull out, I suspect a through cleaning and degreasing of the hole and the threads followed by a thin coat of something like JB Weld on the plug then re-inserted firmly into the hole and let cure for a minimum of 24 hours would solve your problems.

Locktite also made a thread repair product:https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-236382-4-8-ML-Thread-Stripped/dp/B01M1ECJ0E

that will have directions right in the package on how to use.

You may want to aquire a small clamp to hold the plug in place while the adhesive cures. Take the entire unit to your local hardware store, have the clerk help you find a c-clamp or small bar clamp to hold it in.

I don't think the lube at that point is under high pressure, I think the higher pressure is in the smaller chamber that pumps the lube into the grooves at the very end of the stroke.

Good luck.

[Finster101]

There must be some pressure there. What caused it to blow out?

[FISH4BUGS]

There must be some pressure there. What caused it to blow out?

I'm not sure. I was at the very end of one lube stick and had just put a new one in. I let it soften then BANG! Out it popped when I cranked down on the handle.

[bosterr]

I just looked at my Star and thought the brass plug is a rather large size. I've owned two of these and have never had to remove the brass plugs. If there are enough threads/roughness, left how about J-B weld the plug in place but after drilling and tapping the brass plug for a smaller plug?

[15meter]

Had my star in my hands last night, I was wrong, the plug appears to be on the high pressure side, I still believe that it can be JB Weld/Located back in place.

You said in 30 years you've never had occasion to remove the plug permanently glueing it in probably won't affect the operation of the sizer.

[45DUDE]

Yours look like this?

[FISH4BUGS]

Yours look like this?

Yes. Yours is a San Diego Star because of the blue paint (I think.)
I don't think they are any different with the Magma.

[Bill M]

I like your "heater" 45DUDE !

[GONRA]

GONRA sez - LOOKS LIKE - "TAPERED pipe threads are driving ya'll nuts...."

[country gent]

What should work is to get a new plug so you have the best threads possible. Coat the new plug with 3-4 coats of wax or other release agent J-B weld, plasti steel, bisonite, or other epoxy with a steel base. mix according to instructions. Put a light coat in the threads in the hole. then a coat on the threaded plug screw together and let cure. The goal is to get a full coat on the threads with out to much being pushed inside. If theres room a small boss around the hole could be made with clay giving more threads to hold. Keep in mind doing it this way will result in a zero clearance thread fit, They will be tight all the way. Especially with J-B weld or bisonite as they both slightly expand when hardening.

I recently fixed a water pump housing with J-B weld where an ear had broken off. cleaned the joint good and glued it giving a light coat inside over the joint. By cleaned good I wire brushed it then precision green solvent a couple times then mild heat to burn out any moisture or oils.Used a couple hose clamps to hold the lip in alignment and location. Let cure over night. next day removed clamp cleanded up over runs and assembled could tighten up the broken ear as tight as the other 3 but it holds and no leaks at 60 psi.

J-B weld is good and holds where you dont want the heat od brazing or soldering.

Being cast iron you could braze up the hole re drill and tap, but you would have to disassemble the whole base really clean and then preferably pre heat the base to keep from cracking.

[elmacgyver0]

GONRA sez - LOOKS LIKE - "TAPERED pipe threads are driving ya'll nuts...."

I do not have one of these or any experience with them, but why in the world would they have pipe threads?

[country gent]

27 threads per inch is a pipe thread pitch also a British and bicycle standard.

[racepres]

Hokey smokes...Send it to me...I will pay shipping back to you...Fixed... No Biggie...

[Green Frog]

Find the nearest Independent Harley Mechanic...Preferably Grey Bearded...He can definitely Fix That!!!
If I was Closer...a No Brainer

“Independent Harley Mechanic” and “Grey Bearded” is redundant in your description, made more so if you throw in “Tatooed”. [smilie=l:
Froggie

[45DUDE]

I like your "heater" 45DUDE !

I have a 6 cavity H&G 50 bnwc mold bought at the same time as the Star. Some times in cold weather a Christmas tree bulb works for heat.:smile:<stays on until it burns out.>

[FISH4BUGS]

The brass plug at the base of the Star/Magma luber-sizer is a 26 TPI x .560" dia cleanout plug. When you remove a plug like that you must rotate the plug counter clockwise until you feel a "click" or hear it. That position is the lead of the thread. Then rotate the plug clockwise and the plug will engage the thread. This technique works most of the time. The plug seems to be an odd ball. My suggestion would be to inspect the plug and the aluminum base and see if the threads are damaged. If they are the easiest fix is a steel plug with a slight taper and a chased 26 thread per inch pitch. This steel plug if carefully screwed into the threads in the base should straighten up the cross thread and allow you to start the brass plug into the base. I could make up a 26 TPI tap for you.
Well, gang, this is exactly what happened.
After a phone conversation, Rockindaddy had me ship my Star sizer to him, and he did his magic.
Not sure of the technical terms of what he did but basically he drilled out the hole, threaded it, the MADE a plug to fit.
Funny thing about our gun community - when we were talking on the phone, and he said send it to me, when he gave me his name, I recognized it immediately.
Those of us in the NFA community recognize his name instantly. He made MP40's on registered tubes. Lots of them! Many years ago, those registered tubes crossed my path at a dealer's. What a small world it is, indeed!
I can't say thank you enough to him.
I did a bullet casting seminar at my local range clubhouse and it worked perfectly.
This is what makes us all connected - the love of casting reloading and shooting.
Thanks ROCKINDADDY!