Lost at sea.

[BBQJOE]

Hi gang!
It's been forever since I've been here on this site, and I can't hardly remember the last time I cast and reloaded.
But that's only due to the last period of casting and reloading produced many hundreds of rounds, and with the on and off availability of primers I've become quite conservative with my plinking, but with my latest hobby, I make more BP than ever.

Which brings us to the reason for this post.

I'm interested in getting into muzzle loaders.
Looking around, the same problem exists....very few primers to be had, which only leads to the logical conclusion of the flintlock.
I have zero desire to make my own caps, although I know it's possible to do, but then again, a person still has to rely on others for chemicals, so again, back to the flintlock.

Being as I make my own powder in a number of grades, and also the fact that I have a .50 cal mold to make my own tumbling media, this just seems to be the thing to do.

I've been watching lots of the yootoobs, but there's so many models, styles, brands and kits out there that I'm truly lost.

I don't really want to spend a grand on a rifle right off the bat, but on the other hand, I don't want a problem child either.

There's a number of kits out there, and I know I have what it takes to build and finish one, but I also don't think I want to start there either.

Apparently I'm really late getting on this boat because just about every time I see a rifle that draws my attention, it's out of stock everywhere. Arrrrrgghh!

I know I'm probably opening a holy hell can of worms here, but could you guys please get me going down the right path on a decent available flintlock in .50 cal that isn't going to make me hate getting into this whole thing right off the bat?

Oh, and you may ask the reason for making lots of BP?
This (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5Mcwb51IGA&t=10s) may, or may not be me.

Thanks gang!

[scattershot]

Look fora used Thompson Center Hawken. They can be had for $4-500.00, and IMO are some of the best charcoal burners around. A good one will last your lifetime, and then some. Good luck!

[36g]

Look for a used flinter to start. The Thompson Centers, and other European manufactured ones seem to be common, especially on Gunbroker. The cheapest ones (probably in quality as well) would be Traditions. That being said, if finances are a concern they do serve a purpose as to being able to get a taste of the genre. Kit guns are out there. They can still be found at gun shows or in LGS. Even used Pedersolis show up on occasion.

[LAGS]

I agree that buying a used TC is one of your best shots.
They are still reasonably priced , and available in lots of conditions .
I have about 15 right now .
I buy mostly junk ones and rebuild them.
Parts are easy to find if you need them , but most I just rebuild all the parts I need.
If the barrels are bad , I have Hoyt fix the bores or make them into a different caliber.

[Beerd]

good deals on flinters, TC and others, show up in the "Swappin and Sellin" section from time to time
..

[Edward]

Give Kibler a call ,Their Woods Runner kit (mine was 54) is shootable in 5 hrs ! Go on Boob tube and search Kibler flint locks , You can buy one and if you change your mind list it and make money on your skill level /He sells the flints TOO!!!/Ed

[Rockingkj]

If you happen to live on an area where is muzzle loader rendezvous or convention happens those can be good place to pick up a good used flint lock. If you’re in or close to Nebraska I can point you in the right direction. Nebr is not the end of the world but we can see it from here. I shoot a Pedersoli flint and have been happy with it.

[LAGS]

I built one of my TC Renegades that was totally trashed into a .54 Hybrid that I can change the lock back and fourth from Percussion to Flintlock.
You might not be any to easily do one out of a percussion and make it a flintlock because of the patent style breech plug .
But I bet you can modify a TC Flintlock into a percussion rifle too by adding a drum for the nipple .
Something like my Hybrid is nice.
One rifle that you can shoot whichever way you prefer or need to because of limited supplies like caps .

[725]

I've been dreaming of a Kibler

[Rapier]

Would consider a percussion VS a flint, and change the nipple out to use standard pistol or rifle primers vs percussion caps. I use FFF in my 58-45s, so there is that. Basically all you need is a consistent burn powder, there is plenty of discussion on the site about making BP style powder.
Oh, a good idea is to shoot each shot from a clean barrel. Try a rubbing alcohol bore swab after each shot, the alcohol evaporates near instantly but cleans the barrel. Last one I did for a guy was a TC Hawken 50, that had sat wrapped in a plastic bag, as fired, until the maskng tape glue wrapped around the bag had crystallized to yellow rock, probably 10-12 years. Was interesting to clean up.

[Nobade]

I've been through a lot of inexpensive flintlocks over the years, and have gotten pretty good at tuning them. But once I tried a Chambers lock and then a Kibler, it changed everything. There's just no comparison. I just bought a Kibler SMR kit, I figure I'll be shooting it for the rest of my life so what's an extra 500 bucks compared to years of not having frustration and enjoying my rifle.

[pilot]

Another vote for a Kibler.

If you are constrained by budget and decide to buy a T/C flinter, you would like it better with a replacement lock. S&L makes a direct replacement that really works well.

[BBQJOE]

I appreciate all of the responses so far. The scale looks rather tipped towards Kibler.

[Chill Wills]

While you are working up to the "keeper" rifle, you might check a few pawn shops.

They will often have a few that never sell and while they may not be great, the low price, (talk them way way down) it will give you something to play with and make you value the good one you end up with.

[LAGS]

I agree with you C W
I have bought so many muzzleloader guns from pawn shops and for Dirt Cheap.
Some needed very little work to be done on them.
Others were in such poor shape that I just thought about selling them just for parts .
But that never happened.
I rebuilt all of them into fantastic rifles or pistols.
I even used lots of the parts and rebuilt parts to build Custom Guns .

[DeuceTwo]

Life is too short, buy a Kibler and enjoy the pleasure of shooting an accurate and reliable flintlock!

[dtknowles]

Another vote for a Kibler.

If you are constrained by budget and decide to buy a T/C flinter, you would like it better with a replacement lock. S&L makes a direct replacement that really works well.

I am not understanding why one would replace the lock on one of these guns, trigger pull, rough or creepy? Not go bang? I was looking around for a 32 cal. flinter and don't see them anywhere and the larger bores were more expensive than I expected. I have two 50 cal. percussion rifles that cost me less than $100 each. I am guessing that replacement lock costs more than I paid for a whole gun.

Tim

[BBQJOE]

While you are working up to the "keeper" rifle, you might check a few pawn shops.

They will often have a few that never sell and while they may not be great, the low price, (talk them way way down) it will give you something to play with and make you value the good one you end up with.
I certainly don't need any low quality junk to be appreciative of the good stuff in life.
I have seen a number of good looking muzzle loaders in the pawnshops, and I'm guessing a number of them are there for the same reason I won't buy them: No percussion caps.
I'm currently knee deep watching Kibler do a complete build.

[Chill Wills]

I certainly don't need any low quality junk to be appreciative of the good stuff in life.
I have seen a number of good looking muzzle loaders in the pawnshops, and I'm guessing a number of them are there for the same reason I won't buy them: No percussion caps.
I'm currently knee deep watching Kibler do a complete build.

You said you were looking for a flintier. No one said anything about percussion!

I just thought, in the mean time, learning on one you didn't have much money into could be instructive, and the "low quality junk" and not everything you find will be, will work and you will learn from them, plus, might be interesting.
But, you are easily offended by the suggestion. Carry on.

[BBQJOE]

You said you were looking for a flintier. No one said anything about percussion!

I just thought, in the mean time, learning on one you didn't have much money into could be instructive, and the "low quality junk" and not everything you find will be, will work and you will learn from them, plus, might be interesting.
But, you are easily offended by the suggestion. Carry on.

I'm not offended at all. Most pawnshops in my area carry a whole lot of junk, and it's rather rare to find a diamond in the rough.
And again, everything I have come across were percussion. I have yet to even see a flintlock in a pawnshop.
But I'll keep my eyes open.
I just have so many projects going on that I'm still on the fence about getting into this side of things.

[Abert Rim]

Joe, your analysis of the ease of keeping a flintlock running in times of percussion cap shortages is spot on. You can likely get by with one of the higher-quality middle-of-the-pack guns like a TC, but I would be leery of the lower-end Spanish and Italian guns in flint, unless you can tinker with the locks like Nobade. A cheap lock that often fails to properly ignite the main charge is incredibly frustrating. My first one was a Lyman/Investarm trade rifle and I was lucky to get a 30 percent ignition rate. Away it went. Some years later I came into a Jackie Brown fowler with a very fast and properly tuned lock and it was like night and day -- instant and reliable ignition. Total game changer -- like Kibler's kits, which have raised the bar for everyone. One other note. You mention having a .50 mold, but be aware that barrel land and groove measurements will tell you what ball diameter and patch combination you MUST shoot for accuracy.

[Nazgul]

I have a Kibler Colonial in 58 and a Woodsrunner in 54. They don’t get any better for the money.
Have many others as well. My favorite is a Green River Rifle Works Hawken in 54. Worth a bit of $ now but gets shot often.

Don

[Sasquatch-1]

Just to take the side of the underdog here, I have five muzzleloaders right now. A Euroarms Kentuckian flinter, 2 custom made Lancaster style flinters, a T/C Hawken style Flinter and a Tradition's Hawken style Cap lock. Out of all of these the Traditions is the most accurate. Not all of the Spanish rifles are junk.

That being said, if you find one dirt cheap you can always re-barrel it and replace the lock. And depending on how much you spend for the rifle still come out under $1000.00.

If you are looking at a pawn shop or for any used rifle, make sure you have a good bore light to exam the barrel.

[Super Sneaky Steve]

I wouldn't try to talk anyone out of a flintlock, but 209 primers are easy to find still. Inlines are easy to clean and shoot. It goes bang every time and without any delay. A CVA Wolf will run you $240 bucks and are sold everywhere.

[dtknowles]

I wouldn't try to talk anyone out of a flintlock, but 209 primers are easy to find still. Inlines are easy to clean and shoot. It goes bang every time and without any delay. A CVA Wolf will run you $240 bucks and are sold everywhere.

This is my question, with something like that CVA Wolf running $240 new, why can't I find a flinter in that price range. I can't find one for less than $450 even used. Yeah, I can find 209's and I have caps but want a flintlock. Oh, and a thousand 209's will cost as much as the gun. I kind of understand people shooting 209's probably don't shoot 1000 shots in two lifetimes. I certainly have not shot my 10ML half that many times but I am not done with it. My percussion Hawken is hanging over the fireplace, looks great there with all its brass. My TC New Englander gets the most BP shooting but I was looking for a light caliber flintlock (something under 40 cal.) because I mostly shoot targets and like the idea of not buying or making igniters. I can make my own BP and do but I also have plenty on hand including 4f. These small caliber flintlocks seem to be an uncommon item.

Tim

[dtknowles]

Joe, your analysis of the ease of keeping a flintlock running in times of percussion cap shortages is spot on. You can likely get by with one of the higher-quality middle-of-the-pack guns like a TC, but I would be leery of the lower-end Spanish and Italian guns in flint, unless you can tinker with the locks like Nobade. A cheap lock that often fails to properly ignite the main charge is incredibly frustrating. My first one was a Lyman/Investarm trade rifle and I was lucky to get a 30 percent ignition rate. Away it went. Some years later I came into a Jackie Brown fowler with a very fast and properly tuned lock and it was like night and day -- instant and reliable ignition..........

This is where I could use some help. " A cheap lock that often fails to properly ignite the main charge is incredibly frustrating." I can imagine it would be. Is the problem always the lock. I hear people changing the lock, does that mean the frizzen is fine and the problem is just the lock? Not a problem with the flint. I have heard of people having bad flints, not best stone, not knapped properly, not clamped at the proper angle. What is special about a Flintlock, Lock? So, it is not just like a percussion lock with a different hammer? I mean, a spring, a cam, a sear, a release. Tuning, do you change the spring, the cam, the amount of rotation. Is it because at the end of travel the strike is weak? I read about people having hybrid guns that you can change from flint to percussion and back, but I don't think they change the lock.

I guess I need a tutorial, can someone recommend one.

Tim

[LAGS]

The Hybrid that I just built uses a percussion lock And a Flintlock.
I have the stock set up so I just change the whole lock , the nipple drum or the flash hole liner.

[dtknowles]

The Hybrid that I just built uses a percussion lock And a Flintlock.
I have the stock set up so I just change the whole lock , the nipple drum or the flash hole liner.

So the Pan is attached to the lock? I see, that is part of where I was misunderstanding. I was thinking the pan was attached to the barrel as part of the breach like on my percussion guns. The nipple screws into the breach there is no nipple drum on my guns (there is a pan like shield around the nipple. I have seen guns with a nipple drum, just never owned one. So the Flintlock lock is much more complicated than the percussion lock as it has the pan, frizzen and the frizzen spring along with the hammer and sear stuff. It seems to me the critical elements are the pan alignment with the flash hole, a proper flint and a frizzen of the right temper. I guess lock speed and striking force might be important too.

Tim

[Nobade]

You may find this thread useful. There is so much information out there on lock tuning, some of it correct and some not. The main thing is everything needs to be balanced with everything else to get it to work well. Sometimes the slightest changes will take you from low reliability to high or the other way around. These mechanisms seem simple but in reality they are a complex interaction of things that happen at very high speed.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=10691.0

[waksupi]

I wouldn't try to talk anyone out of a flintlock, but 209 primers are easy to find still. Inlines are easy to clean and shoot. It goes bang every time and without any delay. A CVA Wolf will run you $240 bucks and are sold everywhere.

A decent flint lock will cost you $240 without anything else included.

[dtknowles]

You may find this thread useful. There is so much information out there on lock tuning, some of it correct and some not. The main thing is everything needs to be balanced with everything else to get it to work well. Sometimes the slightest changes will take you from low reliability to high or the other way around. These mechanisms seem simple but in reality they are a complex interaction of things that happen at very high speed.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=10691.0

Thanks for that link

Tim

[dtknowles]

A decent flint lock will cost you $240 without anything else included.

You mean, just the lock, no stock or barrel? That is just crazy.

Tim

[LAGS]

I don’t think that the $240 cost is that high.
I see it is more of an investment than an expense.
I had to find and buy a TC flintlock to build that Hybrid that I did in that previous post .
Since that lock is not the only lock for the Hybrid, I can use that lock in other rifles that I am building .

[Nobade]

Chambers large Siler is up to $295 now. That seems expensive but just try to make one.

[Super Sneaky Steve]

A decent flint lock will cost you $240 without anything else included.

Really? Where?

[dtknowles]

Chambers large Siler is up to $295 now. That seems expensive but just try to make one.

You can buy a whole new 22 rf revolver for less than that or many other complete guns used. I guess the issue is not many of these locks are made so if you want one you have to pay thru the nose.

Tim

[dtknowles]

Really? Where?

https://www.stonewallcreekoutfitters.com/locks/lr-locks/

[Abert Rim]

I disagree that anyone is "paying through the nose" for a high-quality flint lock. The good ones are milled, hand-assembled and hand tuned, with parts properly hardened -- especially the frizzen. They are not made in China. If the price comes as an insupportable shock, go see what a plain-jane JM Marlin .30-30 these days -- or stick with some plastic-stocked wonder that takes 209 caps, pellets and jacketed pistol bullets in plastic cups. Yuck. To each his own.

https://www.flintlocks.com/locks.htm

[indian joe]

You can buy a whole new 22 rf revolver for less than that or many other complete guns used. I guess the issue is not many of these locks are made so if you want one you have to pay thru the nose.

Tim

If you are an experienced flintlock shooter and a decent gun tinkerer you can make a cheap second hand lock perform quite nice - my pet flintlock is still wearing a $40 CVA lock after 25 years.
most experienced blokes like Waksupi wouldnt be caught dead using such a lock but I dont feel handicapped stepping up alongside someone with a custom rifle and a siler or chambers lock but bog standard the CVA was ordinary enough. Needs the shooting experience and the tinkerability to make it right.

[waksupi]

You mean, just the lock, no stock or barrel? That is just crazy.

Tim

that's exactly what I mean.

[rbuck351]

About ten years back I bought a TC front loader at a gun show in Anchorage AK. It came with two GM 32 cal barrels and two locks, one cap and one flint. The flint combo is by far is the most fun to shoot. Although it fires every time, sometimes it lags a bit between the flint strike and the bang and sometimes it fires seemingly as fast as a center fire.

I need to get with someone like Waksupi to see if this is a lock problem or my loading method.

[indian joe]

About ten years back I bought a TC front loader at a gun show in Anchorage AK. It came with two GM 32 cal barrels and two locks, one cap and one flint. The flint combo is by far is the most fun to shoot. Although it fires every time, sometimes it lags a bit between the flint strike and the bang and sometimes it fires seemingly as fast as a center fire.

I need to get with someone like Waksupi to see if this is a lock problem or my loading method.

If the pan is igniting "every time" you proly already ahead of the mob particularly in Alaskas climate.
the problem is further down the chain of fire

experiment with how much prime powder you use - I like more rather than less, but I make the stuff so theres plenty.

I dont know the TC breech setup but your symptom points to a longish powder channel from pan to main charge
that can be helped by 'seatng; the main charge - drop the powder down, gun standing vertical give ole betsy a "smack on the chops" - several - light smacks with open hand right near the lock - that will make sure the powder charge doesnt hang up or bridge internally (all muzzleloaders should get into this habit anyway capguns too)

That gun was mine (unless this has already been done!) I would drill out whatever is there to about 9mm (bigger the better within reason) thread tap the barrel wall and insert a touch hole liner thats coned from the backside at 45 degree - this puts the body of the main charge right up against the pan - no more ffffft ....(wait for it) ........bang.

[rbuck351]

It already has a screw in touch hole but it is coned (sort of ) from the inside and it's not coned at a 45 degree angle. Also IIRC the liner is a 1/4". I will make one that is tapered from the inside and test that. If that helps I can open the barrel hole to 5/16 and try that. I don't think I have a 9mm tap or die but that's an easy fix.

I have tried loading the pan with different amounts of 4f and positioning it level and with it stacked against the touch hole liner and away from the touch hole. That didn't seem to make much difference. I guess the worst case is if it still does the ffft bang sometimes, it will make me a better shooter if I can master that.

Thanks for the help. I'm willing to try most anything as this is my first flinter. I have several cap guns but the flinter has the others beat for fun. If I do my part, it will shoot right at 1"at 50 yds with either barrel. With my 75 year old eyes, that is about as good as I can shoot with anything with iron sights.

[36g]

My understanding is that for the fastest ignition from the pan the powder in the pan should be tilted away from the flash hole so that you don't get a fuse effect but rather the flash from the pan sets off the main powder charge. Seems to work for me.

[indian joe]

It already has a screw in touch hole but it is coned (sort of ) from the inside and it's not coned at a 45 degree angle. Also IIRC the liner is a 1/4". I will make one that is tapered from the inside and test that. If that helps I can open the barrel hole to 5/16 and try that. I don't think I have a 9mm tap or die but that's an easy fix.

coned 45 degree is not writ in stone and you will get 100different opinions here - mine is just one -- if its a small clibre you have a decent barrel wall thickness to contend with - this is all about getting the main charge as close to the pan ignition as is safely possible - take a peek in there with a flashlight when its loaded - can you see fresh powder?

I have tried loading the pan with different amounts of 4f and positioning it level and with it stacked against the touch hole liner and away from the touch hole. That didn't seem to make much difference. I guess the worst case is if it still does the ffft bang sometimes, it will make me a better shooter if I can master that.

there is that and it will do it......

Thanks for the help. I'm willing to try most anything as this is my first flinter. I have several cap guns but the flinter has the others beat for fun. If I do my part, it will shoot right at 1"at 50 yds with either barrel. With my 75 year old eyes, that is about as good as I can shoot with anything with iron sights.]

good shootin I know the bit about 75 yr eyes - got a pair of those meself

[indian joe]

My understanding is that for the fastest ignition from the pan the powder in the pan should be tilted away from the flash hole so that you don't get a fuse effect but rather the flash from the pan sets off the main powder charge. Seems to work for me.

that is the common held view - one I dont subscribe to and it never made sense to me BUT if I had one of those guns with a long skinny fuse type powder channel it would not last long at my place before it got fixed
I think the theory maybe was debunked by a bloke did some scientific tests on pan powder placement and ignitin times - proly on this forum someplace

[Wayne Smith]

On my one and only flintlock the most effective pan load is as light as possible. Just a few grains of powder set off the charge.

[waksupi]

About ten years back I bought a TC front loader at a gun show in Anchorage AK. It came with two GM 32 cal barrels and two locks, one cap and one flint. The flint combo is by far is the most fun to shoot. Although it fires every time, sometimes it lags a bit between the flint strike and the bang and sometimes it fires seemingly as fast as a center fire.

I need to get with someone like Waksupi to see if this is a lock problem or my loading method.

It sounds like you may be over priming if you have a lag.

[indian joe]

On my one and only flintlock the most effective pan load is as light as possible. Just a few grains of powder set off the charge.

we have two that are opposite - they go best with a pretty full pan and right close up to the touch hole - one home built and tother is a charleville
All that proves is flintlocks have character ---prhaps the fellers that like to shoot em do too?

[rbuck351]

The minimum powder in the pan is one thing I haven't tried. I normally fill the pan just below the touch hole. I was told the flash across the top of the pan was the fastest of the burn pattern. I'm still learning so I have a few more things to try. Thanks everyone.

[dtknowles]

Ok, it showed up at my door at 9 pm tonight. A used CVA 50 cal flintlock rifle. Maybe have pictures and a range report tomorrow.
It makes sparks. The flint is pinched with lead, was thinking it was supposed to be leather.

I used a patch puller an got some fuzz out of the bore, think nothing in the bore anymore. I can push a goodly puff of air out of the flashhole if I push a tight patch down the bore. A pin goes easily through the flash hole.

I have 4f, 3f and 2f powder, round balls and cut/lube patches and some flannel and some pillow ticking. Mostly want to see if I can make it go bang tomorrow.

Can you believe those delivery people are working until past 9pm?

Tim

[LAGS]

I sometimes install my flints to the hammer with lead.
I prefer leather.
But don’t always have any leather at hand.
But I have lots of lead for casting boolits.

[dtknowles]

I sometimes install my flints to the hammer with lead.
I prefer leather.
But don’t always have any leather at hand.
But I have lots of lead for casting boolits.

Thanks, it sounds like either will work. I have much of both lead sheet and sheet leather. I am going to leave it as is with the lead because I have the impression that this gun was working will as is. It might have been tuned by the previous owner.

If I have issues I am going to change to leather, any recommendations on the leather. I am thinking softish thin leather, I have everything from kid glove leather to shoe leather to raw hide. I have scraps of gloves, wallets, boots, jackets, holsters, you name it.

[LAGS]

I mostly use the split leather that I used to make my possibles bag.
But just try different leathers that you have.
Mine is about 1/16” thick and pretty soft.
Most glove leather is too thin.
Shoe leather has worked.
Belt leather is too thick.

[Sasquatch-1]

Old wallets tend to be a good thickness. I also buy scrap packs from Hobby Lobby that contain upholstery scraps. They may need to be skived thinner.


If I have issues I am going to change to leather, any recommendations on the leather. I am thinking softish thin leather, I have everything from kid glove leather to shoe leather to raw hide. I have scraps of gloves, wallets, boots, jackets, holsters, you name it.

[dtknowles]

CVA Flintlock range report.

It went bang every time. Stranger happened by this kind of hidden location, he was interested, had shot before, does not own a gun but is thinking about getting one. I suspect he can't really afford it right now, seemed to be a poor working family man. I let him shoot it and then taught him how to load it. Seem quite bright and caught on easily.

Target, 4 shots, 25 yards, offhand/standing, not carefully aimed so it does not mean anymore than it has potential.
325663

The one patch I could find, the others were lost in the weeds.
325664

Seems ok, not textbook perfect but not bad, right?

490 round ball, 50 gr. GOEX 3F, GOEX 4F in the pan.

325670

Tim

[indian joe]

CVA Flintlock range report.

It went bang every time. Stranger happened by this kind of hidden location, he was interested, had shot before, does not own a gun but is thinking about getting one. I suspect he can't really afford it right now, seemed to be a poor working family man. I let him shoot it and then taught him how to load it. Seem quite bright and caught on easily.

Target, 4 shots, 25 yards, offhand/standing, not carefully aimed so it does not mean anymore than it has potential.
325663

The one patch I could find, the others were lost in the weeds.
325664

Seems ok, not textbook perfect but not bad, right?

490 round ball, 50 gr. GOEX 3F, GOEX 4F in the pan.

325670

Tim

If that lock eats up flints you might wanna harden the frizzen
A decent condition CVA is capable of that target or better at 100yards
Have fun!!!!

[dtknowles]

If that lock eats up flints you might wanna harden the frizzen
A decent condition CVA is capable of that target or better at 100yards
Have fun!!!!

Good to know.

Tim

[Sasquatch-1]

If I am out in the middle of NOWHERE and a stranger walks while I am shooting, I would be very wary. Especially since you say it's a somewhat hidden area.


CVA Flintlock range report.

It went bang every time. Stranger happened by this kind of hidden location, he was interested, had shot before, does not own a gun but is thinking about getting one. I suspect he can't really afford it right now, seemed to be a poor working family man. I let him shoot it and then taught him how to load it. Seem quite bright and caught on easily.

Tim

[dtknowles]

If I am out in the middle of NOWHERE and a stranger walks while I am shooting, I would be very wary. Especially since you say it's a somewhat hidden area.

He drove up not walked up, it is an easement of a sort. He was in a company truck, really, I was probably trespassing. I was wary but not for reasons like you are suggesting. I was glad he was interested in what I was doing and not interested in causing me trouble for being where I shouldn't be. Finding a place to pop off a few rounds without having to drive a long way led me to explore this place. First time I went there I found some discarded brass, so others have shot there.

Tim