Lubricant for Powder Thrower

[timboslice]

I bought three RCBS powder throwers that were previously covered in oil from being stored improperly with gun cleaning and lubrication supplies. I cleaned them up but the cylinder assembly does not move as freely as I would like. I went to a local gun shop and asked what they recommended and they told me to use a lithium based lube but I also see that a dry graphite lube is probably the best option, which is what I am leaning towards. Any recommendations as to what brand of dry graphite lube I should get?

[cwtebay]

I have used powdered graphite for that. But mostly because I hate powder sticking to EVERYTHING if you use a liquid lubricants.
Edit - make sure that you have disassembled everything that you can and use some sort of degreaser on all parts before reassembly. I use isopropyl ALC, some use brake cleaner, others ether starting fluid. Not sure if it matters, but make sure all is righteously clean before applying anything.

[country gent]

I use a dry lube molybdenum disulfide on mine. wear gloves when using it. a rub it into the parts with a rag. You want a dry lube so that powders dont get contaminated or stick. The dry lubes dont do a lot for rust prevention though.
The other thing to remember is a lot of powders have a graphite coating that lubricates over time.

[Recycled bullet]

Run a few ounces of power pistol through it and it'll be smooth as glass.

[Delkal]

I second the powdered graphite. Many powders are already coated in it anyway so you have no chance of contaminating your powder or having variable weights due to the powder sticking to a grease.

[AZ Pete]

graphite or Moly powder.

[timboslice]

I use a dry lube molybdenum disulfide on mine. wear gloves when using it. a rub it into the parts with a rag. You want a dry lube so that powders dont get contaminated or stick. The dry lubes dont do a lot for rust prevention though.
The other thing to remember is a lot of powders have a graphite coating that lubricates over time.

Right that was my goal; to prevent powder from sticking and messing up my loads. I will give the moly lube a look. Thanks!

[racepres]

To take up "space" I use a spray on Moly.
For lubrication...I have always simply run some bit of powdered mica thru my measures.
I catch the mica and recycle it by putting a little (very little) in the containers that my fresh lubed Boolits go into...Shake and roll.. No Sticky

[timboslice]

I second the powdered graphite. Many powders are already coated in it anyway so you have no chance of contaminating your powder or having variable weights due to the powder sticking to a grease.

Graphite seems to be the consensus on this thread or molybdenum. But maybe I won't waste time and just buy some powder and run it through!

Edit: I fully disassembled everything and cleaned off all the lubrication with 70% IPA since I had it available. I also used some barkeepers friend to remove some of the rust on various parts and wiped it off quickly. Currently it is metal on metal with no lube or rust preventative.

[M-Tecs]

renaissance wax works well. https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-XTL-8004-Wax-Polish-65ml/dp/B003AJWN62/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=1331509153635681&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YQdniBg5xx1Iruryi2N_cdI4shpCOBTl5 6i6wLV6OIzlxgF5NHqbLBgKVY0IVQ0vDpG9Xy0HUVlAZt8J89s 3Mkdsc2aSDUdsHcad1PaCW7348QjsLkf1H_GsvqfVeDYQY0NjP PiPeZWWnOp4vu50i5Iyjqo0M2nWVFqpN3XwVUNpxAuPuYpRe8T MMo9C3ZYJhN6k8LWzx9h_7mk4skX9z_1aHMwQ9AEHmm-QCfiOtRO-mJ0vdTIDwuodnFtcUT0_vI8UYANfH84wmAMSrkNIeuvvfPGYYf 07SMu6W2bQSEU.fZCO7flG4Ae2SliGUtEH1NH2ExdflFqV-W8b6M1QsS0&dib_tag=se&hvadid=83219644939604&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=109337&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83219685304209%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=13908_13425775&keywords=renaissance+wax&qid=1711231851&sr=8-2

https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/what-to-clean-a-powder-measure-with.3879869/

[Winger Ed.]

I've waxed the moving parts with regular auto/car paste wax-
the kind that dries & you buff off. I've had had good luck doing that and there's no residue.

[timboslice]

I've waxed the moving parts with regular auto/car paste wax-
the kind that dries & you buff off. I've had had good luck doing that and there's no residue.

Interesting, this is the second recommendation of wax I have seen along with M-Tecs. Any particular brand you could point me to?

[cwtebay]

Graphite seems to be the consensus on this thread or molybdenum. But maybe I won't waste time and just buy some powder and run it through!

Edit: I fully disassembled everything and cleaned off all the lubrication with 70% IPA since I had it available. I also used some barkeepers friend to remove some of the rust on various parts and wiped it off quickly. Currently it is metal on metal with no lube or rust preventative.I should have specified - I use 99% isopropyl. HUGE difference. But I have it readily available.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[timboslice]

I should have specified - I use 99% isopropyl. HUGE difference. But I have it readily available.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

At this point, I am going to go through all of them again just to be sure. I recently got a bottle of brake cleaner so I will use that and apply the graphite lube directly afterward.

[NWPilgrim]

Dry graphite (spray or powder) is also supposed to eliminate static cling of the powder. Not so important with stick powders but fine ball powders or light flake powders can really stick to surfaces. You just need enough to coat it at the beginning as the smokeless powders have graphite coatings and will eventually self coat as well.

If I clean it I use Hornady spray case lube and cleaner. Let it dry a bit then wipe off any excess. Then apply tiny amount of dry graphite to any areas the powder flows through and the rotor bearing surface.

[timboslice]

Dry graphite (spray or powder) is also supposed to eliminate static cling of the powder. Not so important with stick powders but fine ball powders or light flake powders can really stick to surfaces. You just need enough to coat it at the beginning as the smokeless powders have graphite coatings and will eventually self coat as well.

If I clean it I use Hornady spray case lube and cleaner. Let it dry a bit then wipe off any excess. Then apply tiny amount of dry graphite to any areas the powder flows through and the rotor bearing surface.

Great info, thanks a bunch!

[gwpercle]

A Dry Lube like Liquid Wrench Dry Lube #L512 works much better than any wet or grease type lube ... I think it better than powdered graphite ...
Spray or use liquid and apply with Q-Tip ... let dry then re-assemble .
There is nothing to contaminate the powder ...
The stuff also helps with rust and is the best boolit mould release you will ever use ... That's right ... Liquid Wrench Dry Lube #L512... try it just one time !
Gary

[Shawlerbrook]

Definitely a dry lube or wax.

[dale2242]

I have used both graphite and Motor Mica.
They both have worked well for me.

[NWPilgrim]

I've waxed the moving parts with regular auto/car paste wax-
the kind that dries & you buff off. I've had had good luck doing that and there's no residue.

I like that idea. I use a couple of squirts of auto wax in dry tumbler on cases. Why not powder measure surfaces? Thanks for the tip.

[15meter]

I have used both NuFinish car wax and Johnson's paste floor wax and could see no difference.

I have also completely disassembled the Redding powder measures I use, both a BR-3 and a 30BR. Cleaned all the moving parts with acetone. Then wiped all machined surfaces with a paper towel with Kroil on it. Buffed it off so there was no residue on the surface. Basically filling the "pores" with Kroil. I could see no difference in operations of the powder measure between the Kroil or the two different waxes. And I've never had a corrosion issue on either powder measure.

I typically do the clean, rewax or reoil once a year.

Keeps them running smoothly.

[Rockindaddy]

Spray graphite by Blaster or industrial spray graphite by ZEP Corporation works great.

[35 Rem]

Regardless of what you use, I think it's important to lube the entire drum rather than relying solely on graphite on gunpower to do the job. Reason being that the powder is only going to contact a small portion of the drum rotating surface. I like powdered graphite myself. I put a small amount on a paper towel and rub it in until the entire surface is coated. I made a point the past few years to collect up a full set of rotors for the RCBS Little Dandy dropper. I did this treatment for each of them spinning each of them inside a graphite coated paper4 towel until they were dull grey from end to end. They definitely work smoother now. The graphite I have is some general purpose stuff from ACE Hardware I think. I do like the car wax idea too.

[NyFirefighter357]

https://blasterproducts.com/product/graphite-dry-lubricant/

[timboslice]

I ended up recleaning the dies with some bar keepers friend to remove the rust, layered on some IPA to dry it up and used the Renaissance wax to prevent additional rusting. I followed that up with dry graphite lube and they work great! All the knowledge was greatly appreciated!

[oley55]

I'd like to take the opportunity to click the "like" button on this thread.

[Nobade]

Anybody try silicone spray? I was thinking that might work. Just found out last night that my Redding measures are both rusted stuck so gotta deal with them.

[NWPilgrim]

Anybody try silicone spray? I was thinking that might work. Just found out last night that my Redding measures are both rusted stuck so gotta deal with them.

I assume that is what the Hornady Cleaner and Case Lube spray is. It works for me along with dry graphite spray. But I also like the idea of the car wax for better rust prevention. That would of course be after cleaning up the rust and polishing as needed.

[hoodat]

The "gliding" properties of your powder measure is achieved by clean surfaces, close tolerances, and the dissimilar metal types of the drum vs cast body.

Be extremely careful to protect the sharp cutting edges of both your drum, and the cast housing. If those edges have been corrupted or dulled by abrasive cleaning techniques, your measure will never be the same. The ideal situation is a perfectly sharp 90 degree edge. If it is rounded at all, it will try to "smudge" grains of powder in stead of cleanly separating and cutting the charge from the bulk in the canister. jd

[wildwilly501]

Spray graphite by Blaster or industrial spray graphite by ZEP Corporation works great.

That’s what I’ve used for 30+ years works great is right.Powder measures,funnels and scale pans.Make a tube of paper stick it down in the powder measure and spray let dry.

[Dom]

Dry graphite applied with an old toothbrush . Same old bush has been around for years. Has been used "ONLY" to apply dry graphite. Simple...

[K43]

Another vote for wax followed by powdered graphite. I also mix graphite into shot to ease shotgun reloading. Renaissance Wax on the workbench for metal protection when I do a complete teardown. So they are present and multipurpose.

[lightload]

Hornady spay case lube

[Postell]

I've used dry powdered Teflon for a few decades.
The one I bought came in a small bottle with a long needle on the top of it.

https://www.amazon.com/Materialix-100-Lubricant-Ultra-Powder/dp/B08P58HCSS/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rjvpdQrat0aWmqQgTSeZyP jswl-0FUi3YpDam4jUl1nPF2LrVFzEkRYeIiyapptv8OOrZhBHIFtG_-okOgrs4LR9aFR-_8YNA_GNHTRUog70WUe0-4Kzk_FzfQB_pcA29Fir6viqoA5wF-fLQLPjlJvfzz7w6YkPHlUQSWVDp5YX0HPfDcpzYvstwSQPCF3p DgbSUYIUoBqtElUdUhNlOY3xHR1ivCHla4zj_1vjLDpATHu1gQ VYN7QcUulNv-8LRRqjCubPg2zqf8M8ndVCrOmzyZUXJJKjLoLhGJt1UQw.h3OP mTslKHmZVBez19OMlu2h3iQNQEo7-DtTWvwkJso&dib_tag=se&keywords=teflon%2Bpowder&qid=1714996499&sr=8-6&th=1

[gunther]

Give RCBS a call and ask. And let us know what the manufacturer recommends. 1-800 533 5000.

[jednorris]

When I got started they recommended pouring very heavily soaped water through the powder measure. The idea was that when it dries it left a soapy wax film inside. I have tried graphite but it scares me. My understanding is Graphite is metal powder, and I am not sure I want that in my barrel. Am I mistaken?

[racepres]

When I got started they recommended pouring very heavily soaped water through the powder measure. The idea was that when it dries it left a soapy wax film inside. I have tried graphite but it scares me. My understanding is Graphite is metal powder, and I am not sure I want that in my barrel. Am I mistaken?

Since it is In yer gunpowder...me Thinks Ignore that man behind the curtain!!!

[kerplode]

When I got started they recommended pouring very heavily soaped water through the powder measure. The idea was that when it dries it left a soapy wax film inside. I have tried graphite but it scares me. My understanding is Graphite is metal powder, and I am not sure I want that in my barrel. Am I mistaken?

Yes, you are mistaken. Graphite is a crystalline form of Carbon and is it most assuredly non metallic. It is, in fact, used as a coating material in modern powders to prevent the grains from sticking together and to dissipate static charges.

It is safe and effective to use as a lubricant for a powder measure system. Safer and more effective that weird random soap residue which will do who-knows-what over time.

[Rapidrob]

Borden's Slide All. A dry spray on film that works very well. Be using it for decades.

[deces]

Moly powder is great stuff. Once you have it rubbed into the part, the part becomes almost hard to handle.

[Charliemac]

I use semichrome polish on my Redding measure to clean the moving parts of powder residue. I think it has some kind of wax in it. Performance definitely improves.

[DDriller]

Aqualube 3000 made by Hi-Tek works extremely well on anything that has metal on metal contact. Goes on wet and dries leaving a film behind that doesn't wear off.

[nwilson1024]

I use graphite like other have mentioned. A little goes a very long way, and it handy for sticky locks as well. Just be cautious with it, powered graphite is not something you want the kiddos playing with.