Iver Johnson barrel repair

[Battis]

I'm looking for ideas on what to use to fill in the deep gouges in this old Iver Johnson top break barrel. I'm not planning on shooting the gun (38 S&W BP) but I'd like to make it look as good as possible. The filler material doesn't have to take blue.

[cwtebay]

Bondo?

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[Battis]

I might shoot the gun a few times - would Bondo hold up? I was also thinking of using West Systems epoxy with the correct filler.
Would solder work?

[cwtebay]

I might shoot the gun a few times - would Bondo hold up? I was also thinking of using West Systems epoxy with the correct filler.
Would solder work?NOOOO!!!!! I apologize, that was meant as a joke. I would imagine buffing and filling with solder would take an acceptable finish if it's a wall hanger.

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[Battis]

Bondo would work if I just keep it as a wall hanger. I bet it might hold up for a few shots. The damage is basically cosmetic. Solder might work.

[sigep1764]

I suppose a good welder could fill it and polish it out. He would have to temper the barrel again.

[Battis]

Basically, it'll be a display piece. I have several top break BP revolvers n 32 and 38 S&W that I can shoot if I get the urge. This one was about to be scrapped, so I got it for nothing. It's too bad about the damage because it's fine mechanically. Bondo, epoxy, bubblegum, will all work. I've never worked with solder but I'll probably try it.

[akajun]

Duracoat and durafill

[elmacgyver0]

I would leave it alone, it's got character.

[cwtebay]

Spoke with a body guy client today and asked. He recommended this product. Says they have used it on dinged up differentials and other parts and it seems to hold up.

https://www.columbiacoatings.com/products/chemicals/metal-filler/hilabba

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[georgerkahn]

I'm looking for ideas on what to use to fill in the deep gouges in this old Iver Johnson top break barrel. I'm not planning on shooting the gun (38 S&W BP) but I'd like to make it look as good as possible. The filler material doesn't have to take blue.

If it were mine, I'd de-grease the barrel and then de-grease it again -- my go-to's are lacquer thinner and acetone. That said, I've had good luck with a J B product called Steel Stik. I'm mix a tad more than I'd reckon be needed and apply fill -- less than needed -- with a silicon spatula. 323720 Let it harden/dry and repeat.
I have no idea if this will work, but it's what I might try...
GOOD LUCK!
geo

[Gtek]

Not being a smarty pants but I like it, if I squint a little looks like a good layout for a leaf scroll pattern. Duplicate it on other side? Maybe have it mapped and lasered on other side, I have seen some crazy stuff from these guys lately.

[Nobade]

I'd watch Ebay and just buy a better barrel. There are tons of those that show up for sale and usually for little money. I recently found a cylinder for one there, it was all of $30.

[Texas by God]

JB Weld and Krylon.
And shoot that thang!


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[Battis]

I don't mind some roughness on a gun, but there's other parts of this revolver that are almost as bad, though most can be buffed out. I'll check out the suggested fixes: JB Weld and Krylon, SteelStik, Duracoat and durafill, High Temp Lab Metal Filler, and I'll look for a new barrel.
Good suggestions.
Like I said, mechanically, and internally, it's in pretty good shape.

[Mk42gunner]

I'd boil it and complete the rust blue leaving the pits as is.

For display, I would make up a sign that says something about making sure the socks are dry before storing a pistol in the sock drawer.

Robert

[Dan Cash]

I would leave it alone, it's got character.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Contemplated repair has big $$$$$$$$$ signs. Keep it for parts.

[Rapier]

Made prior to 1899, it is an antique, not a pistol, by federal law. The cartridge is factory loaded to low pressure. As long as the apparent attempt at acid etching did not go too deep, you could sand blast it to clean it up good then fill the deep pits with a rod made from straightened clothes hanger steel, sanded to remove the varnish. Then re-blast and coat it. Painting or coating it after repair is not going to hurt the value at all.
Howeve if the interior and exterior pitting is deep enough to weaken the barrel, it could be very hazardous.

By they as is typical, you changed your story three times. You were not going to shoot it at all to start with. Atypical customer story.to a gunsmith.

[Battis]

I perused ebay and found lots of good, inexpensive stuff, even contacted a seller about a barrel. I checked out the other suggested fillers and fixes and decided on the least expensive fix - JB SteelStik. The gun won't be a shooter (well, maybe once), but it will be a Grasshopper-type learning project.

[Battis]

I hedged my bet and bought a barrel on ebay for cheap money. Not that I don't trust my restoration skills...
Good suggestion, Nobade.

[country gent]

Clean it good and rough up the areas to be filled to provide a good surface to bond to. Lay the filler in carefully working out air bubbles and smoothing as best you can. let cure for a few days. block sand to desired finish. Final sanding at 600-800 grit wet should allow th finish to lay on very smooth.

Heres where you need to check if your planning on a heat cured finish coat do a test The temps to cure the finish may affect the epoxy also.

[John Taylor]

A good place to practice engraving, might make those rust area look like they belong there.

[cwtebay]

A good place to practice engraving, might make those rust area look like they belong there.Dang it John! I love this answer!!!

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[Battis]

That's not just rust - those are craters. They have to be filled in. They're deep enough to be a concern as to the integrity of the barrel metal.