I finally found an original Rem Rolling Block. I have Questions.

[YippyKiYay]

After much searching I bought an original Remington rolling block. It has octagonal cuts on the top of the receiver. I've been told it's an 1871 NY Militia, originally in 50 Govt.
The action has been refinished, but in really good shape.

Here's the rub; someone was gonna make it an inline muzzleloader. It has a 34" barrel in 54 caliber threaded, and someone did a great job relieving the Cresent? Shape extractor and installinga breech plug.

I want to recreate GA Custer's 50 Govt rifle, which was lost at Greazy Grass, but in 50-90 for extra power is I want it.

I've found a man who will bore it to 58, then sleeve it in 50 caliber, and chamber for 50-90.
My concern is weight, it weighs 11lbs now, adding a 50 cal liner won't bring it down, and cutting it back to the original 28" will only shave ounces.
I want something I can carry on the woods, not a target rifle.

Ideas? Thoughts?

[elk hunter]

I'm thinking that a new barrel would be as cheap as a sleeve job and you could have exactly what you want.

[Don McDowell]

Just rebarrel and chamber it. Also if you don't have the 50-90 brass on hand, you may want to wait until you have the brass on hand. Plus maybe in the mean time you might get a chance to shoot a 50-90 and make an informed decision on whether or not you really think the "extra" power is needed.

[country gent]

Im agree with the rebarrel and chamber to what you want . from what you say the barrel on it isnt original so its not as big a thing.

The other is while lightening the rifle may make it carry easier its also going to increase felt recoil. A well balanced rifle may be better than a light rifle. A rifle that fits you is also better.

On the roller the longer 50 cal case may give issues on loading unloading also. The shorter 50-70 may angle in easier than the longer 50-90 round.

Look at the tapered octagon barrels and then the half round contours. On a 30-34" barrel removing a few ounces at the muzzle makes a big difference do to leverage.

[YippyKiYay]

I didn't mention I have a goodly supply of 500 3" Nitro Express brass. The cartridge conversion chart I looked at said the 500 NE could be formed into 50-90 and 50-70. The rim is .025" thinner on the 500, but I don't see that as a major issue for a single shot.
I've also read where some had to shorten the hammer on the RB, which I really don't want to, but will if needed.
I'm of the philosophy that " recoil is momentary, but Gravity works all day long."

Btw, you guys have convinced me to rebarrel. My 2nd choice is a 500 BPE 2 5/8".

The Boolit mold I bought is the Lee 450gr. I always get the brass first, then mold. So if the wife asks I can say, " this gun? I've had all this stuff for years."

[dtknowles]

I didn't mention I have a goodly supply of 500 3" Nitro Express brass. The cartridge conversion chart I looked at said the 500 NE could be formed into 50-90 and 50-70. The rim is .025" thinner on the 500, but I don't see that as a major issue for a single shot.
I've also read where some had to shorten the hammer on the RB, which I really don't want to, but will if needed.
I'm of the philosophy that " recoil is momentary, but Gravity works all day long."

Btw, you guys have convinced me to rebarrel. My 2nd choice is a 500 BPE 2 5/8".

The Boolit mold I bought is the Lee 450gr. I always get the brass first, then mold. So if the wife asks I can say, " this gun? I've had all this stuff for years."

When they say the hammer needs to be shortened, I don't see how this is possible. If you shorten the hammer it will not reach the firing pin. Looking at my roller the interference with a longer than 50-70 cartridge is with the face of the hammer not the hammer spur. Did they give a picture of the necessary hammer modifications. If you are getting a new barrel anyway, why choose a 50, why not a more available cartridge. I know that 45-70 is sort of boring. Are you going to be shooting this with black powder? If you are going to use smokeless then 50-70 can do anything that 50-90 can do and with less airspace in the case. If you are getting a new barrel, bullet choice will be important, you want the throat and twist to match your bullet weight and shape.

Tim

[YippyKiYay]

Being the frame is an 1870's vintage, I'll only be using Black Powder, maybe NFB. But that creates the issue of to much space in the case.
The NY Militia model has a pretty big spur, I inadvertently didn't specify what part of hammer. I need to see if a 500 NE will start in the barrel and not hang up on the hammer.
I'm on my 2nd 45-70, great cartridge, but wanting something else and use the brass.

[country gent]

The ones I have seen have a radius cut in the top of the hammer nose. for the bigger cartridges. When you check it you want a dummy round with longest bullet seated as the length of the bullet also affects this.
The added dia and length of the loaded round may make this a tricky conversion as the round dosnt actually load in a straight line but makes a arc loading into the chamber.

[Don McDowell]

When someone mentions shortening the hammer on a rolling block, they mean taking material off the top of the hammer so that the longer cartridges will slide over.

[dtknowles]

When someone mentions shortening the hammer on a rolling block, they mean taking material off the top of the hammer so that the longer cartridges will slide over.

Now I understand,

Tim

[725]

Your gun - your desires. Tossing in my near worthless 2 cents, I'd opt for a chambering of easy to find brass. You already have .45-70's and really, that's all the horse power you could ever need. Make life easy on yourself & have fun.

[Brimstone]

I bet the 50-90 hangs up on the nose of the hammer.
45-90 tends to do that with 540gr patched ellipticals seated shallow in the case. I'd imagine 50-90 is much more prone to this.

Not saying don't try just saying expect issues.

[fordwannabe]

I am at the end of a 50-90 conversion on an old roller. I did have to groove the top of the hammer to get enough clearance for the rim of the cartridge. We also had to relieve the side of the action to allow the roller to come back far enough to load the round. I am using a Malcome scope on mine. We also had to relieve the end of the rolling block a touch for clearance. I have several 512 molds as I have a 86 in 50-100-450, if you need some bullets to try send me a pm. Good luck. Tom

[Chill Wills]

I built the rifle you described or close. Only it is a number 5 action which is basically the same size as the number one with updates.
50-90
28 inch barrel, half round
needed to take a little crescent cut in the top of the hammer to chamber loaded cases.

With the 28" half round barrel, the hunting weight is very doable.
Recoil is fine for me.
I had cases enough to make it work - your chamber rim can be single point cut to fit the cases you have. Make a few cases first to give to the gunsmith or at-least some of the unconverted cases you have to insure a good fit.

I am close to completing the wood and I will be done.
PM me if you want a few pictures. They may give you some ideas.

By the way, I only shoot black power in it. That makes it easy.

[YippyKiYay]

Thanks Tom, I'll definitely keep that in mind. I'm off to see the gunsmith tomorrow.

[YippyKiYay]

I built the rifle you described or close. Only it is a number 5 action which is basically the same size as the number one with updates.
50-90
28 inch barrel, half round
needed to take a little crescent cut in the top of the hammer to chamber loaded cases.

With the 28" half round barrel, the hunting weight is very doable.
Recoil is fine for me.
I had cases enough to make it work - your chamber rim can be single point cut to fit the cases you have. Make a few cases first to give to the gunsmith or at-least some of the unconverted cases you have to insure a good fit.

I am close to completing the wood and I will be done.
PM me if you want a few pictures. They may give you some ideas.

By the way, I only shoot black power in it. That makes it easy.
Thanks Chill. My dad Loved all your movies��. I'm having trouble determining exactly which action I have. This one is huge, with the top half of the receiver ring octagonal. Where can I find honest pics of all the RB actions?
I'm about convinced to use only BP, I been using it since 1980.

[YippyKiYay]

If anyone sees or has brass for it please reach out.

[YippyKiYay]

As to sights, I've purchased the Rough and Ready rear and front sight, with fold down globe and aperture rear, as Custer's rifle had. I really like aperture sights.

[YippyKiYay]

It took a bit of digging, but I finally learned my Remington is a No. 1 Sporting Model. I'm guessing the Sporting models have more value than most military models?

[dtknowles]

If anyone sees or has brass for it please reach out.

What brass you looking for?

Tim

[YippyKiYay]

What brass you looking for?

Tim

50-70, 50-90, or 50 Basic.

[MichaelR]

I don’t have my reference books where I am, but couldn’t you make a jig to bend the rim of the 500 nitro in a few places to simulate a thicker rim? This way you would have a normal chamber for when you can get the correct brass.

[YippyKiYay]

I don’t have my reference books where I am, but couldn’t you make a jig to bend the rim of the 500 nitro in a few places to simulate a thicker rim? This way you would have a normal chamber for when you can get the correct brass.

I bet I could. But hindsight being clearer, I'll sell the 500 and source some 50-2 1/2"

[John in PA]

I know you've already determined to change the caliber of Custer's rifle to .50-90 instead of .50 Govt. The MVA Rough and Ready sight is the best recreation of Remington's Combination Peep rear sight, and a Beach's front sight (fold down for blade, fold up for globe) is correct for the front. MVA makes one that's decent. The best photos that I'm aware of are the one wit Custer holding the rifle with the elk he shot, https://i.pinimg.com/originals/25/97/26/259726fceed8154c69e277445b859ab6.jpg and the one taken in camp in front of the NPRR tent, https://static01.nyt.com/images/2012/12/02/books/review/1202EGAN/1202EGAN-superJumbo.jpg
Good resources if you're researching details trying to duplicate the rifle. 28" full octagon, round top, flat side receiver (this is a VERY early rolling block, so essentially a military receiver), single set trigger.

I had Dave Higginbotham of Lone Star Rifles make me a a duplicate about 20 years ago. I cheated on mine and used a sporting receiver, and the later standard steel forend tip rather than the plain rounded pewter one that was on the original Custer rifle. Dave allowed me to choose the serial number, any number except number 1, which he was reserving for himself. I said any number? he said "yes." I said GAC 1876. He said, "Dang, I wish I'd thought of that!"

[Yellowhouse]

If you think you need more horsepower use a paper patch bullet seated out in the 50-70 That way you can stuff nearly 75 gr of powder in a modern case. I promise thats all you need. Secondly, unless you opt for a stock design with less drop the original profile and buttplate will deal you extraordinary misery with the 50-90.

By the way Higginbothams favorite calibers for the Roller were the 50-70 and 44-77....in that order.

[missionary5155]

Go to the hardware and get yourself some "O" rings.
I use these on my "cobbled" 40-70 brass to hold the rim solid on the breach face.