Another mini lathe question

[MrWolf]

I have been toying with the idea of getting a metal lathe. Zero experience and a bad back and neck so I cannot spend a lot of time at it.

I keep getting a 25% off coupon from Harbor Freight for one item with basically no exceptions. I have mentioned getting them before but no idea how long they will keep sending them to me before they give up trying to get me back to buy. I know their stuff is mostly junk and will require a lot of cleaning up, etc. and will need upgrades.

The store near me only has the 7x10 in stock (must be in stock for coupon at store). I could get it for $563 ($750 less 25%). Little Machine Shop sells a16" bed extender for $220. I know there are other upgrades required. Guess my question, assuming I can convince myself I can take a lot of time doing the upgrade work, is would I be better off just getting a better machine as suggested in the recent table top lathe recommendation thread? I would be doing gunsmith related work primarily. Would the 7x even handle barrels?

Looking to make use of the coupon before it's no longer going to be offered to me. I could always find another use for it but I typically wait until the weather is better so I have to decide soon. I have been going back and forth on the lathe question in my head for a very long time now. I do not have to buy anything now, this is just an opportunity and we all know prices are not coming down anytime soon, if ever.

Thanks,

Ron

[zymguy]

No amount of money will take a harbor freight mini lathe to where itd be a good option for chambering a barrel. Even if you got it to fit youd still need more horsepower and rigidity. I think 10 inch swing is probably a good starting point . I put my coupon toward the buffing wheel

[Preacher Jim]

That HF lathe was what a young fellow here bought. It helped him do a few things but 6 months later it was replaced by a used craftsman metal lathe and at same price he paid for the HF.

[Reg]

Try to find an older used Logan. Very solid and lots of parts out there. Remember, you will spend as much or more for tooling. Then start to read and there are lots of You Tube videos out there so it’s education time and you never stop learning.

[Bent Ramrod]

Spend your coupon on the best Harbor Freight bench grinder that they offer. The one I got was large, yellow and comes with its own light. So far the only casualties have been the little plastic spark guards on the thing. I wear safety glasses instead.

It’s run like a top for easily the last 20 years and is indispensable for grinding lathe tools, which you will need to do. A lot. The little Black&Decker I had before that would slow down with any grinding pressure at all; this one doesn’t.

If you want to make small parts, a bench lathe like the Atlas 6” x 20” with milling attachments should do you well for occasional use. I’ve used mine since the 80s and have yet to damage any of “those pot metal gears” that generate so many mentions. On the other hand, I generally run it at the lowest speed and feed, and take 0.010” cuts (0.005” on a side) at maximum. They show up on Craig’s List and other places. You have to change the gears by hand, but you can reproduce any weird thread that the gun in question might have. You’re not going to need “production” here, anyway; for the amateur hobbyist, slow and steady is the way to go.

If you want to do rifle barrels, you’ll need a 36” travel lathe, preferably with a 1-1 2” hole through the headstock. I guess some of these could be called “bench lathes” but the bench needed would be pretty sizable. I’ve managed to thread a 20” barrel on my Atlas, by desperation measures, but it’s better to have the right tool, if you plan to do such jobs on a regular basis. The little Harbor Freight is way too small for that, although pistol barrels might work.

I’ve never used one of the little Harbor Freight lathes, but I believe they offer a 3-year guarantee at a small extra cost. This should ensure some leeway if you do break something on it. The only other Harbor Freight machine I’ve bought is their least expensive horizontal/vertical band saw, and, although it does have its quirks, it’s been reliable and well worth the price.

[MrWolf]

Kinda what I thought that it would not really handle what I would want to do. Craigslist and such is not really an option out here as we are pretty rural. Nearest decent city is 45 minutes away in Winchester, VA. which is basically my limit in driving before it starts getting painful. I already have a grinder with stand. I will probably have to get a new machine when the time comes, probably from Grizzly or such and have it shipped. I still have plenty of projects and was just thinking to use the coupon if feasible. Like everything else, cry once and get something that maybe my son would use someday.

Thanks folks.

Ron

[country gent]

I will say this I have the 7x10 here its size is limiting small spindle bore short bed. But its not the machine that makes the craftsman its the craftsman that makes the machine. Learning to use the machine take the play out and set up takes time. It dosnt take long to learn chips are sharp and hot. The little lathes have their place and can do amazing work in the right hands. A bigger heavier machine will do more faster but also costs more, is harder to move, and more dangerous if you make a mistake.
My 7 x 10 HF weighs roughly 60 lbs can be moved by hand and stored on a shelf. My 14/18 x 40 nardinni weighs 3500 lbs and requires a toe jack and skates to move. When we moved trhe big drill in (7500 lbs) the bill was $ 1600.00 and almost 6 hours work.

If you can find a little sheldon, Logan, atlas, South bend, evenb Harrison monarch, you will pay a little more and have a heavier machine. An uncle had a 6 X 18 sheldon lathe still had the small spindle bore but the machine also weighed a couple hundred pounds, took a couple men to move it.

Buy the mini get started and learn. If you like it and enjoy it upgrade the mini will still be handy when the new machine is set up or you need a part for what your making on it.

[jss227]

Check out the Vevor lathes on Amazon. I have the 210x800 (8.3x32 inch). I paid $900 for it a little over a year ago. The best part that I like is the thru bore is 1.6 inches, a lot bigger than most bench top lathes.

[rbuck351]

I have a 7x10 HF lathe that I converted to 7x14. The spindle bore is about 7/8" and to small for most barrels. The 14" bed is also to short to chamber anything but a pistol barrel. I have an atlas 10 x 36 to do the longer stuff but it also has a small spindle bore. I haven't seen the Vevor 210x800 but at that price and with a 1.6 spindle bore it sounds like a lot better lathe for barrel work.

[bimus]

I'm sure glad I did not get a mini lathe three years ago I almost did. I ended up with a 9 x 48 Southbend Junior the thru bore is only 7/8 there is plenty of room between centers 36 inches I found myself making a 16-inch UZI barrel and no way I could have done it without using the thru bore. My next lathe will be larger.

[uscra112]

I would not buy that Amazon lathe. At that price it is almost 100% certain that it will ship direct from China, with nit for quality control. You might wait a month or more to get it. After-sale support will be zero.

Having been in the machine tool rebuilding business for a dozen years I would warn that buying a used machine is risky unless you know how to evaluate spindle bearings, alignments, guideway and leadscrew wear, und-und-und. Many if not most sellers won't want you poring over the machine with test bars and dial indicators, either.

Personally, I have a South Bend 10" Heavy that I bought for barrel work. But I use my mini much more often, since most of what I do now is more conveniently done on the small machine. So decide up front whether barrel work is going to be in your mix. If not, then a mini is your best bet by far. Less space needed, less expensive tooling, easier installation & setup, etc. As a hobbyist, even at my peak I did only 2 or 3 barrels a year. For the 6-7 years before I bought the South Bend, I got a lot done to advance my hobby.

[jss227]

I would not buy that Amazon lathe. At that price it is almost 100% certain that it will ship direct from China, with nit for quality control. You might wait a month or more to get it. After-sale support will be zero.

It did ship from China, from the same factory as all the other mini lathes. The ways are hardened and true, plenty of aftermarket goodies, and everything lined up straight from the crate. As with any small lathe, take your time.

[country gent]

My little HF 7 x 10 takes some attention to detail and careful work but it will do .001 The clausing wanna be 12 x 40 and nardinni are much better and easier. but also much bigger heavier and powerful.
Its the craftsman using the machine that makes the quality of the parts.

When you get into the used industrial machines and even the bigger hobby machines you get into new issues of moving them, size area needed, cost of tooling, moving tooling, ( The 12" 4 jaw chuck for the nardinni weighs around 80 lbs.). But the 12 x 40 has a 1 1/2' spindle bore and the nardinnis is over 2" The bigger spindles and tapers tooling is more expensive. most of the Minis use a 5/16 square HSS tool costs about 2.00 my bigger lathes are 1/2 or 5/8 and 10-12.00 apiece.

For the person who wants to get their feet wet and make some small parts jewelry trinkets the minis are great. I would set the grandsons on my lap eye protection and we would make tops yo-yos and such. They had a ball. I had my son running a bridgeport at 9 years old cutting out his pine wood derby car. I borrowed a friends mill and we went there. My friend was watching and he got a big kick watching the son run the mill.

[lead chucker]

I have a 7x14 from little machine shop and like it. Its a good lathe to learn on and has served me well.
They also sell every part for it which is nice. I would love to have a bigger lathe but dont have room for one. Some day maybe. Learn on a small lathe and then decide if its for you and go from there. A lathe to me is quite useful and a lot of fun and lots of late nights making things. Been working on making a mini cannon with mine right now.

[zymguy]

I have a 7x14 from little machine shop and like it. Its a good lathe to learn on and has served me well.
They also sell every part for it which is nice. I would love to have a bigger lathe but dont have room for one. Some day maybe. Learn on a small lathe and then decide if its for you and go from there. A lathe to me is quite useful and a lot of fun and lots of late nights making things. Been working on making a mini cannon with mine right now.

I agree IF you want to learn on a lathe. many parts and many many lessons in the smaller lathes . However if you want to chamber and thread barrels thats pert near 1000 bucks id save for more lathe . Gritters rods , bushings , travel indicators , dial indicators , magnetic bases youll use on any lathe , could start there

[GregLaROCHE]

I started with a 7x14 mini lathe. Unfortunately, I bought the least expensive I could find, because it looked like they were made by the same manufacturer. Was I ever wrong! I learned a lot with it and now have a full size lathe, also from China. A 7x14 can do a lot, but get a good one.
Don’t forget that the lathe is only half the cost the other is the cost of the tools to be used with it.

By back isn’t as young as it once was. I do almost all of my lathe and mill work sitting on a tall stool. It makes all the difference in the world. I go 4-5 hours at a time, that I could never do if I had to be standing.

[nuclearcricket]

Pretty much all of the 7X lathes come out of the same factory, Seig I think. The 7x10 is so short you will have problems drilling holes as you run out of bed length. I have a 7x14 I got from MicroMark. I am happy with it for the most part. I have replaced the tool holder 2 times, the first one was ok the second is all steel and I am very happy with it.
I have adjusted the gibs several times, thats just normal wear, as the surfaces are not ground so they do wear. A good 7mm wrench is very handy when making the adjustments. I have replaced the spindle bearings with tapered roller bearings, made a world of difference. For most turning, boring, threading operations the lathe is pretty good. Mine is old enough it has the AC motor and when cutting coarse threads or threads on a large diameter at low rpm the lathe will bog a bit at the start of the cut. I have gotten used to it so I only take a .001 deep cut each pass. I went with the MM lathe because it came with English screws on the cross and compound.
One area where these lathes do king of lack is in parting off stock. Under an inch isn't pretty easy, but when you get up to the 2" plus range you will have problems with it chattering and stalling. It is lacking both on horse power and rigidity for steel that size. I have recently addressed that problem by buying a saw for when I need to work on stuff that big.
Something you really should have on hand with these little lathes is some very good Way lube. You will not use all that much of it so a pint will last quite a long time. One place it is very important to use a good quality lube is on the gear train for the lead screw. There are 2 gears that mount to a sleeve and ride on a stud. These would be gears B and C. Its important to keep lube on that stud. If not it will cause bad things to happen when you really don't want it to. Best advice is, you make a change to your gear train, a drop of oil is your very best friend. All but 2 of the gears in the train are plastic, my lathe is about 10 years old or so, stil have the original gears and non have any broken teeth.
For small work, these lathes can and will do a very good job.The may not be the fasted lathe to use on some projects but they will get the job done. They are a good lathe to learn on. If you can master things on these small lathes, the move up to something bigger will be much easier and hopefully you have made the bulk of your mistakes on the small lathe and carry lessons learned forward if or when you move up.
Sam

[country gent]

Theres a trick to sitting on a stool running machines, you dont actually sit with your feet up on a rung.Stand in front keep your feet on the floor and just rest on about 2-3" of the edge of the seat. Keep your back straight. this dosnt restrict reach or vision. But it still gives good support.

Most arnt going to jump straight to doing barrel work they will do little projects building confidence up, and deciding if they want to continue. Most will start with small projects making odds and end tooling for their machines and benches. The mini lathe is a good starting place you can learn the basics and principles make some nice things then if you upgrade you still have it for those times when a second machine is needed. When sleeving a bore I set up the part and bore it to size required and dept. Then go to the second lathe turn the bushing to press and length bore to with in .050 and then press in with tail stock on the 1 st machine then bore to size. this saves one set up.

Most new operators are scared of the 4 jaw chuck the mini with one will teach how useful it is. A journeyman can have a 4 jaw running with in .001 in 2 minutes or so with out breaking a sweat. Same with adjusting a tail stock to true or an angle. Here most minis have the adjustment underneath not on the sides.

What the person starting out needs to learn the most is work piece and tool holding. Its not always chuck it up and go. Then its speeds and feeds.
As I said most are afraid of the 4 jaw chuck and threading for a beginner is scary when you hit the half nut and it starts feeding at around .050 per revolution.

[uscra112]

One relatively easy project for the small lathe is custom dies for the Lubrisizer.

[GregLaROCHE]

The mini lathe forging may come from the same foundry, but different companies machine and assemble them. That’s where the quality control and prices come in.

[Tracy]

When I bought my Harbor Freight mini lathe several years ago I already had a Grizzly 9x19 lathe. I can't imagine being without the mini now; I use it far more than the 9x19. I think any serious reloader needs a mini lathe.
No need to extend the bed either. The small size is part of what makes it so useful.

[Jackpine]

Mr Wolf,

Lots of good points here on options, but I it sounds like you are in a position where you are considering the HB lathe is your only practical option. It also appears that you have little or any lathe experience. Unless buying this lathe is going to be a financial hardship I'd say go for it. Is this the best lathe in the world; obviously not and it has many limitations, but you can learn from it and decide if you want to dive deeper into the pool and upgrade when that happens. I don't see a lot of these for sale used, so that tells me that most folks aren't real unhappy with them. If you decide you don't like it, I would guess you could easily sell it for 70% or more than what you will be paying, especially given the discount you are getting up front.

I have an older model of this lathe, which I bought used many years ago. I also have a very old Atlas. Is the HB unit as good? Absolutley not, but it does a good job within its limitations. Plus, the new price on these have doubled since I got mine, so I could easily sell it today for much more than I paid for it. Small motor, yes, but feed and speed will make it work.

Hopefully you buy this unit and enjoy it so much and get so deep into the lathe rabbit hole, but you will want to upgrade soon, but you probably won't know to do that without starting somewhere, and sounds like the HB unit is your only somewhere.

[uscra112]

Something I learned many years ago is that many Asian companies make different quality grades of the same basic product, to meet the demand of the buyers. Some buyers want to compete on quality, some on price alone. I had an American company as a client back in the '70s who did the same thing for Sears, making table saws. The good ones were Craftsman, the cheap ones were "Sears".

Draw yer own conclusions.

[country gent]

The overseas suppliers build to several levels. I suspect it more thru sorting parts than holding tolerances. They get a run of cross slides that are dead on they are set back for carriages that are also dead on. Ect ect ect. They may have several grades. They also will build to the customers specs.We got starter parts from Korea but they were built/machined to our blueprints, same as the parts from other suppliers.

I agree one of the older small industrial machines may be better but the time to find one and cost makes them a little restricted. Also the little Atlas, South Bends, Logans, Sheldons and the likes are getting hard to find parts for. Those small atlas south bends while now considered "hobby" machines were also when new were industrial machines. We had several 6" atlas lathes in the plant in different areas for doing repairs.
Yes most of the mini lathes are wanting for power may need to fiddle fuss for accuracy, but given better gearing and a larger motor and tighter tolerances they would be above the price point of the hobbyist.
I think I gave just under $500 for my HF 7 x 10 with the tool package. My Nardinni tool room 14/16 x 40 at 25 years old was $5000.00 with tooling and read out. It also required movers to bring it in at 3000 lbs.

[country gent]

Just got my e-mail from grizzly and they have their micro mini and other lathes on sale now.

[MrWolf]

Just got my e-mail from grizzly and they have their micro mini and other lathes on sale now.

I saw them too. I am going to take yours and others advice and get the HF one to practice on. I will put together a list of tooling and run it by you folks to see if I am getting what was suggested. Lot cheaper finding out if my back/neck can handle it with the HF and if so getting a larger lathe after I have learned a bit. Actually picking it up in a few hours on my way to having three more MRI's done. I get to be in that machine for a few hours straight. Yea...
I do appreciate everyone's suggestions. Thanks.
Ron

[country gent]

Its no fun getting those mri my last one was head neck orbs and spine with and with out dye. little over 4 hours in the machine. the new open ones are better.

When you get into the machines with quick change and power feeds it gets easier you set them up and watch them work.

[country gent]

Do your first few projects in plastics and or wood you will learns the basic seat up, getting tool height correct, and such plus any opps or over enthusiastic cuts will be easier on you and the machine.

Big thing with the machine pick up a pair of safety glasses. Dont wear gloves while operating the machine. Roll shirt sleeves up. No ties or necklaces. No watches or rings. Read the manual the minis may have a very ordered starting procedure and shut down also. Above all be safe and go slow. Pick up and extra pack of fuses.

[Tracy]

https://www.mini-lathe.com/

[uscra112]

https://www.mini-lathe.com/

Good site.

I haven't mentioned it yet. Get a compact vacuum to gather up chips.

I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5H85XZH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cobbled up a flat snoot which gets under the bed.

322803

Never, never use compressed air. (When I was a rebuilder, we joked that the air gun was the rebuilder's best friend.) A couple of stiff sash brushes also help a lot.

[MrWolf]

https://www.mini-lathe.com/

Thanks for the link. I started reading it already.

[MrWolf]

Its no fun getting those mri my last one was head neck orbs and spine with and with out dye. little over 4 hours in the machine. the new open ones are better.

When you get into the machines with quick change and power feeds it gets easier you set them up and watch them work.

Almost two hours total in the machine. Was my first time in an open MRI. Easier than the regular machines. Guy knew I had them before by how I was dressed and prepared. I hate the cold and had thermals on and a pair of gloves. Yea, I know but remember this is a family site when you post your reactions. :groner:

[MrWolf]

Good site.

I haven't mentioned it yet. Get a compact vacuum to gather up chips.

I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5H85XZH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cobbled up a flat snoot which gets under the bed.

322803

Never, never use compressed air. (When I was a rebuilder, we joked that the air gun was the rebuilder's best friend.) A couple of stiff sash brushes also help a lot.

Thanks. Just ordered one.
Ron

[uscra112]

Almost two hours total in the machine. Was my first time in an open MRI. Easier than the regular machines. Guy knew I had them before by how I was dressed and prepared. I hate the cold and had thermals on and a pair of gloves. Yea, I know but remember this is a family site when you post your reactions. :groner:

They looking for stenosis, or ?????

[uscra112]

I work mine seated in a swivel chair. I wear a woodworker's apron, with the hem stuck to the underside of the table with magnets, to collect all the chips that land in my lap. Also captures small parts that try to escape over the edge and onto the floor. (Learned this from a jeweler.)

[MrWolf]

They looking for stenosis, or ?????

Long story short. Hurt my back 30 years ago and herniated a cervical and thoracic disc. Was told the thoracic was pretty hard to do and only the 2nd one in 15 years the neurologist had ever seen. My luck. Normal life damages for the next 20 years then slipped at work on some construction plastic. Exasperated everything. Out on disability pension and SS Disability. Had L4-5 done four years ago to get me walking right after much begging to surgeon as it was only a 50/50 chance. It worked. After that my ability to sit, stand, etc severely decreased (not surgery fault) and I feel due to hip region. Have to go to a pain doc in VA (WV Nurse Practioners and Physician Assistants can't write an Rx for narcotics) every month who are basically worthless. I finally had to file my own appeal for the MRI's. I basically have more bad disc's than good with a genetic narrowing of the canal. Hopefully get the readings today and it will be something that can be addressed. Pain is so bad I couldn't go to my Brother's funeral this summer about four plus hours away. I am still better off than a lot of folks so...

[uscra112]

I'm with ya, bro. 6-7 years ago stenosis set in, L3 to L5 as it turned out. 2019 had laminectomy done, but 50% of the pain remained. Since then it's been steroid injections, epidurals, nerve ablations, you name it. Nothing does much. "Gettin' old ain't for sissies" used to be funny. Not no more.

[MrWolf]

I'm with ya, bro. 6-7 years ago stenosis set in, L3 to L5 as it turned out. 2019 had laminectomy done, but 50% of the pain remained. Since then it's been steroid injections, epidurals, nerve ablations, you name it. Nothing does much. "Gettin' old ain't for sissies" used to be funny. Not no more.

Really frustrating part is I just want to be able to drive about five hours straight to see my kids in Philly and Jersey shore area. Just read the reports and will be calling my neuro surgeon for an appointment. Who knows maybe they can do something. Thanks for the thoughts.
Ron

[uscra112]

I hope the last couple of posts explains to everybody why we're both in need of a really small machine that can be worked while seated in an office chair, legs under the desk.

[elmacgyver0]

I just saw a video on the primer MeWe site where a guy was trying to show the dangers of machining titanium. (fire)
He flipped on the lathe and the chuck key went flying across the room, he didn't even pause and went on giving his demonstration like this is a common everyday occurrence.

[country gent]

I seen videos where the chuck keys are left in the chuck, gloves worn while running the machine. Rags used on parts while running. many no nos.
Usually when the chuck key hits you after being left in you remember it. Chips or chuck jaws rough surface can and will grab gloves and suck you in, same with rags. Ive seen them pulling chips out of the way again a no no chips are hot and sharp they will snag and cut. Heavy chips will act just like a garrote.

Have a place for the chuck key ( other than the chuck) and always put it there. Some production machines had a tube with switch in the bottom it the key wasnt in it the machine wouldnt turn on. Dont wear gloves your hands will wash easier than being wrapped up around a part.same with rags. If for some reason I need to use emery the first few are not wrapped around but backed with a file. And last never use a file with out a handle. Youll be amazed how far a spinning chuck jaw can drive that tang into your wrist.

[uscra112]

Yeah, one of the first thing my first machine shop mentor drilled into me was that you never take your hand off the chuck key until it was back in its' nest.

We were working around some pretty big machines then, and a rule I set for myself was to never stop being afraid of them.

I'm also remembering that even the V.P.s I dealt with at GM and Ford never wore ties. I once had a subcontractor show up at the St. Catherines engine plant wearing a tie, and they wouldn't let him past security. Long hair was another no-no.

[country gent]

They may have a suit on but the ties were off or tucked in the shirt. Always wore a ball cap in the shop still do lathes arnt bad for hair but mills and drill presses will scalp you. At campbells hair nets were mandatory, not so much because of machinery but being a food plant.

Loose clothing can become an issue on bigger machines.

Another thing when you set up a machine look for the "pinch points" that can grab you. On a lathe between the carriage and the part can be closer than your hand arm is thick.With short tools between the tool holder part is another. If memory serves the Big lathe at our plant low speed was 5 rpm. My big drills lowest speed is 40 rpm. Onwe thing I liked on the industrial machines was the hand clutch and the foot breaks.

[uscra112]

One of the big lathes I test-ran could peel off chips 1/2" wide and .050" thick, and they came off bright blue. You do NOT want one of those going down your shirt. Today that lathe would be shrouded in guarding, but back then OSHA was still in diapers.

[country gent]

Those Cs or 6s fly pretty good to. But they are easy to clean up

[uscra112]

We better stop now - we're scaring these people to death.

[Slugster]

I got a long shirt sleeve get caught in a rotating chuck on my 14/40 several years ago. Thank goodness I was threading, so the speed was slow. Likewise thank goodness for Emergency Stop Buttons!

[45_Colt]

As for gloves, vinyl food handler gloves are OK. They are weak and will easily tear/break if caught. Same if using nitrile gloves (but pricey). And they help keep the hands clean and chip/grime free.

Gloves to avoid: cotton, leather, and so on.

Same as mentioned with rags, No way, keep away. Paper towels are good to go. They tear easy.

Shirt sleeves, rubber bands help contain them. Best is to avoid reaching over rotating objects. There is an off button that can be used instead.

Oh, and the chuck key, that is a good one, they do fly.

On top of all this, is one thing that is the most important: Distractions

Any distraction what-so-ever, just stop, hit the off button first thing. A distraction can be something as simple as your pup wanting dinner, a grandchild walking in, a box falling over. Anything that takes your mind off the machine.

45_Colt

[M-Tecs]

When I trained machinists if they left the chuck key in the chuck they got to wear it on a chain for a full day.

[country gent]

Never propped your feet up on the carriage woke up when they fell off to start another pass?????? works better on shapers. LOL.

[Scrounge]

I have been toying with the idea of getting a metal lathe. Zero experience and a bad back and neck so I cannot spend a lot of time at it.

I keep getting a 25% off coupon from Harbor Freight for one item with basically no exceptions. I have mentioned getting them before but no idea how long they will keep sending them to me before they give up trying to get me back to buy. I know their stuff is mostly junk and will require a lot of cleaning up, etc. and will need upgrades.

The store near me only has the 7x10 in stock (must be in stock for coupon at store). I could get it for $563 ($750 less 25%). Little Machine Shop sells a16" bed extender for $220. I know there are other upgrades required. Guess my question, assuming I can convince myself I can take a lot of time doing the upgrade work, is would I be better off just getting a better machine as suggested in the recent table top lathe recommendation thread? I would be doing gunsmith related work primarily. Would the 7x even handle barrels?

Looking to make use of the coupon before it's no longer going to be offered to me. I could always find another use for it but I typically wait until the weather is better so I have to decide soon. I have been going back and forth on the lathe question in my head for a very long time now. I do not have to buy anything now, this is just an opportunity and we all know prices are not coming down anytime soon, if ever.

Thanks,

Ron

I'd hold out for the 7x12 at least. I had a 93212 7x10 from Harbor Freight, and had a lot of problems with it. Got frustrated enough to moan about it my wife, who told me to take another class. So I did. And in the early part of that class, I found out that I lacked the sense of touch necessary to get accurate measurement with the dial caliper and micrometer I was using. Wasn't the lathe, it was the "stick actuator" as we called it in the USAF. I'd look at this: https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-7x16-Mini-Lathe for $1600 right now. Last time I looked, they were on sale for $1000 or so. This lathe has "true-inch" dials, which is a couple of hundred bucks to upgrade the HF lathes. Already has the 16" bed. And they have a pretty good reputation in the 7x mini-lathe community. Check out this group from Yahoo: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe They moved to Groups.io back when Yahoo was self-destructing their groups. They are made in China. They are not perfect, but they are quite a bit cheaper than about anything else. Last I looked, Grizzly wanted over $10K for their East-Asian version of the Heavy 10L. And it isn't compatible with the US-made Heavy 10L lathes. Also check out this site: https://gadgetbuilder.com The guy who runs it is a moderator over at 7x12Mini-lathes. Back some years ago, I looked for, and found, an American lathe of about the same size as the 7x lathes. It was $10k, also. Look at Grizzly's offerings, too. Also check out the Little Machine Shop.

I bought my HF 7x10 because it was the only lathe I could lay hands on the day I woke up from a horrible dream. At the time, it was $269 & tax. And a couple of years ago, I traded it for a couple of Unimats. Basically sold it for $700. I had upgraded it a bit. 5" 4-jaw chuck, and a few other odds and ends. Do not expect super accuracy from the stock 3-jaw chuck. But also know that .003 TIR on a chuck is excellent.

I have an Atlas TH42 (10x24) lathe. Same spindle bore and such as the 7x mini-lathes. Also got a restorable hulk of a South Bend Heavy 10L vintage 1941.

"It is a poor craftsman who blames his tools."

All the problems a mini-lathe has are fixable. And they generally have fewer problems now than they did when I bought my 7x10 in 2008. Think of it as a kit and treat it accordingly. Though if you can afford them, a Monarch 10EE is a hell of a lathe, and only about $100K. Makes the $1000-$2000 for a tricked out mini-lathe look pretty good if you don't have a bunch of cash to play with.

Bill

[MrWolf]

I already got the HF 7x10 yesterday. Couldn't beat the price at around $560 or so. I already plan on getting the 16 bed extension. A lot depends on what the doc says can be fixed or not.

[MrWolf]

Bit pissed about my pain RN. Out here I have to go to Winchester VA for my pain med every month and pee in a cup every three months. Back in August I had x-rays done of both sides of my hips. This guy ordered them. Got my results back of the MRI's from Tuesday and saw the xray readings. Damn doc never followed up and I had to beg for the MRI's and file the appeal myself. See my neuro doc on Tuesday. Recommendations on xrays were to have follow ups done.

This I why I am going the HF cheap route. It will let me know if using a stool, etc will allow me to work longer than an hour at the lathe, let me know if the motions of using the lathe will be causing pain from all my other herniations, and if my fingers (especially right hand) will be able to utilize the tools. At the very least I can use it for converting the 32 S&W brass to 32 LC :Fire:

Ron

[MrWolf]

Lil update:

Looks like I have some planning and prepping work to do. I am going to get the HF 7x10 bed extension and some tools so I can hopefully learn a few things during recovery after my upcoming surgery on March 13th. Turns out my complaining about how much worse I am over the last year and a half was valid. Even I could see the huge difference in my back above my previous surgery four years ago. They are going to do a L3-4 XLIF (Extreme lateral interbody fusion) surgery an actually come in from my side to operate. If this fixes my sitting/standing issue then I am going to reward myself with a new lathe latter this year. I have been looking at the PM-1340GT 13″x40″ Ultra Precision Lathe (Taiwan built ones). Think this should do everything I could reasonably expect. I am so tired of the pain and such that I figure I owe myself an extravagance that I can leave to my kids or their kids. For once I am not going nuts over the cost.

Think that one will do the job? [smilie=l:

Ron

[country gent]

13 x 40 is a good size bed will be long enough to do barrels whats the throat size in the head stock? if big enough then a barrel can pas thru and be worked at the chuck. It should handle everything you want to do.

[MrWolf]

13 x 40 is a good size bed will be long enough to do barrels whats the throat size in the head stock? if big enough then a barrel can pas thru and be worked at the chuck. It should handle everything you want to do.

Model PM-1340GT Main Specifications from the Precision Matthews website:

Type: Geared HeadModel: PM-1340GTMax.
Swing over bed: 13″Max.
Swing over cross slide: 6-1/2″Max.
Swing in gap: 19-1/8″
Gap Insert Length: 7-3/4″
Spindle Face to Gap End: 5-1/2″
Spindle Face to Tailstock Quill Face: 40″
maxCenter Height: 6.5″
Spindle Center Line Distance from Floor: Approx. 46”
Max. Distance Between Centers: 40″
Width of Bed: 7-1/2”
Bed Height: 11.5”
Spindle Bore: 1-9/16”
Spindle Taper, Internal: MT #5
Spindle Mounting System: Cam Lock, D1-4
Spindle Speeds: 90-1600 RPM, 12 Steps
Bed Length: 63-3/4″
Lead Screw Diameter / Pitch: 7/8” / 8 TPI
Feed Rod Diameter: 3/4”Inch
Thread Cutting Range: 4-112 TPI, 40 Different Threads
Metric Thread Cutting Range: .25-7.5mm Pitch, 24 Different Threads
Longitudinal Feed Range (Left and Right): .002-.02 Inches Per Revolution
Cross Feed Range (In and Out): .001-.01 Inches Per Revolution
Spindle Length through headstock, Protruding End to D1-4
Chuck Mounting face: 13-3/4”
Spindle Length through headstock, Protruding End to 3 Jaw Chuck face: 17-1/4”
Cross Slide Travel: 6-3/4”Compound Travel: 3-1/2”
Tail Stock Quill Diameter / Travel / Taper: 1-9/16” / 4” / MT#3
Main Motor Horsepower: 2 HP
Power Requirements: 208 to 240 Vac, 60 Hz, 1 or 3 phase (Choose phase option when purchasing, both recommend a 20A Circuit)Power connection: Direct wire in to cabinet on the rear side of the headstock
Machine Dimensions, Assembled with stand: 52”H x 29”W x 70”L
Machine Weight, without stand: 1100 LBS
Machine Weight, With Steel Stand: 1350 LBS

The Taiwan made ones have a 5 year warranty. I took all the recommendations made and my own research and figured this would give me the best bang for the buck. I am very rural and finding a used machine is not really feasible nor do I know enough to evaluate one. Figure if they can fix me up good enough then I am splurging on this as I have always wanted to learn how to use a lathe. For those that offered assistance I will be reaching out when the time comes. I figure near the end of the year these will be back in stock and I will be physically able to enjoy (I hope). I can look at a larger machine but not sure it would give me what I want considering size, weight, etc.. Thoughts?
Ron

[country gent]

Sounds looks like a good machine. a couple upgrades to do if possible are Digital read out x and y. and a taper attachment. The dro is very handy and will make machining easier. The taper attachment will allow longer tapers to be turned before having to offset the tail stock. If it dosnt come with one then also add the aloris or dorin quick change tool post and a set of tool holders. What does it come with as far as chucks a 3 jaw to start 4 jaw for more precision. and last a collet chuck and collets. this machine should be able to do 5c collets. Closer style isnt so important as you arnt doing production work. a lever closer is nice but a regular collet chuck with key is fine.
PM may have a package that includes most of this in it.
Ive heard a lot of good on the PM machines. for an idea my 12 x 40 is 2 hp my 14 x 40 machine is 7 1/2 hp.
The speed range is good again for reference my 12 x 40 is roughly 1000 rpm and the 14 x 40 is 2500 rpm you will want to balance chucks for the upper rpm
The dro and taper attachment ordered with machine should come installed mush easier than doing it your self or finding someone to. The dro installation requires getting to the back of the machine drilling and taping holes making mounts indicating scales in and setting readers encoders. ordered with the machine it is installed set up and ready to go. The taper attachment will require the cross feed to be disassembled and from there its swap parts and bolt on.

There should be a tooling package available with it and some options.
I would call the dealer and discuss these upgrades and packages with him. The new machine will make finding tooling easier but with the remote location its going to be hard still.

[MrWolf]

Standard Accessories:

PM‐1340GT Standard Accessories: (Machine is available in either single or 3 phase, select from drop down when ordering)

Back Splash Guard
L.E.D. Work Light
High Precision NSK Spindle Bearings, +/‐ .0001” Spindle Runout Max
4 Way Tool PostThreading Dial (4” Travel Dial, 32 Tooth)
Reducing Sleeve for headstock
Dead Center for Headstock
Steady Rest
Dead Center for Tailstock Follow Rest
Feed Rod ClutchChip Tray
Misc. Tools for operation
D1‐4 Camlock Quick Change Spindle
Belt Cover Interlock Switch
D1-4 Face Plate (10″)
5 Year Warranty

*Note, chucks are not included standard, please select chuck option from the optional accessories if you need a chuck with your machine

They do offer the two axis DRO installation and taper attachment on GT lathes along with the other accessories.

Their expected in stock is next month but as I said everything depends on how well the surgery fixes some of my issues. I am hoping to become somewhat normal and not trying to get my hopes up to much. Really appreciate all the advice.

Ron

[uscra112]

Purely coincidence - a couple of months ago I bought a precision drill chuck with integral R-8 shank online from Precision Matthews, (via Amazon). Very well made, runout just as promised, very pleased with it.

[MrWolf]

Purely coincidence - a couple of months ago I bought a precision drill chuck with integral R-8 shank online from Precision Matthews, (via Amazon). Very well made, runout just as promised, very pleased with it.

From what I have researched, they have a good reputation for customer service and making sure everything is good. Believe the gentleman's name is Mark from what folks have commented on. That means a lot to me especially with what things cost nowadays. Pretty ridiculous with some things I bought only a year or two ago almost doubling in price. Guess we really have to stock up now on whatever as I doubt prices will be coming back down.

[Ed K]

A buddy bought a small Chinese lathe for $500 or so. Immediately began to lay out money for tooling. A few months later I purchased a 13X72 South Bend for $750. It came with an almost new Bison 3-jaw (and receipt for $500), a 5c collet closer, collets and more misc tooling. It simply ran circles around the Chinese lathe and similarly outfitted was actually cheaper.

[MrWolf]

A buddy bought a small Chinese lathe for $500 or so. Immediately began to lay out money for tooling. A few months later I purchased a 13X72 South Bend for $750. It came with an almost new Bison 3-jaw (and receipt for $500), a 5c collet closer, collets and more misc tooling. It simply ran circles around the Chinese lathe and similarly outfitted was actually cheaper.

I would love to find a deal like that except 1) there is nothing used anywhere near me, 2) I can't currently drive more than about an hour away due to back pain (hopefully surgery next month may help that) and 3) I have no idea what to look for in a used lathe. My options are not great. I will have under a thousand in this mini lathe when all is said and done. It will let my know if I physically can handle working on one and if the surgery goes well then my treat to myself will be to buy a new one. Figure for the money the Chinese mini is basically a cheap way to find out and I will still have it to use for converting 32 S&W brass to 32 LC and other small things.