xtriggerman
01-22-2024, 02:46 PM
So I'v been buying some S&W parts kits from everygunpart and decided to rebuild a M10 with a Victory model barrel and forward frame section from another parts set. The victory model is a Canadian proofed 38 S&W cartridge barrel that I had no luck selling on Ebay so I figured it would make a nice snake bore with its .360 groove diam. Add to that, I reamed it out with a T drill and then spun polished all but about .001 of the lands out so as to not run afoul of a smooth bore NFA pistol reg.
This first shot is after I mig welded the top strap on. The weld joint is about 1/3 of the way back from the thread head.
https://i.imgur.com/v9yWHThl.jpg
Then I fabed up a forward bottom corner out of some miscellaneous steel I had laying around. probably 4140.
https://i.imgur.com/sctbcNNl.jpg
Welded & shaped
https://i.imgur.com/9kqxSSxl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7gZ4ZdMl.jpg
Most of the grip frame dosent come with the dewat frame so I had to match the grip contour to a new fabed up grip frame section.
https://i.imgur.com/HaH7FDbl.jpg
I think the Canadian proofs look neat on this Victor 10 snake gun. You can see the frame one by the barrel pin.
https://i.imgur.com/NLY8Hkbh.jpg
After all the final shaping I put the frame in my kiln and roasted it to 1140 F for a couple hours to get rid of the weld stress. Then brought the temp down to 340 F and oil quenched it there just to give it a slight bit tougher skin. The worst case scenario is it could stretch the top strap but I highly doubt that with the rather smooth over sized bore and light loads that will be home made fodder.
"If" the CCI shot capsule breaks open, I get about a dead on POA pattern of about 4" @ 10 feet. As you all may know, a rifled bore throws the shot out of pattern pretty early leaving you with a wounded snake or missing him all together at anything past 10 feet. This is my idea of the fix!
https://i.imgur.com/Yelfw01h.jpg
This first shot is after I mig welded the top strap on. The weld joint is about 1/3 of the way back from the thread head.
https://i.imgur.com/v9yWHThl.jpg
Then I fabed up a forward bottom corner out of some miscellaneous steel I had laying around. probably 4140.
https://i.imgur.com/sctbcNNl.jpg
Welded & shaped
https://i.imgur.com/9kqxSSxl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7gZ4ZdMl.jpg
Most of the grip frame dosent come with the dewat frame so I had to match the grip contour to a new fabed up grip frame section.
https://i.imgur.com/HaH7FDbl.jpg
I think the Canadian proofs look neat on this Victor 10 snake gun. You can see the frame one by the barrel pin.
https://i.imgur.com/NLY8Hkbh.jpg
After all the final shaping I put the frame in my kiln and roasted it to 1140 F for a couple hours to get rid of the weld stress. Then brought the temp down to 340 F and oil quenched it there just to give it a slight bit tougher skin. The worst case scenario is it could stretch the top strap but I highly doubt that with the rather smooth over sized bore and light loads that will be home made fodder.
"If" the CCI shot capsule breaks open, I get about a dead on POA pattern of about 4" @ 10 feet. As you all may know, a rifled bore throws the shot out of pattern pretty early leaving you with a wounded snake or missing him all together at anything past 10 feet. This is my idea of the fix!
https://i.imgur.com/Yelfw01h.jpg