swaging lube

[BT Sniper]

Picked up some Anhydrous Lanolin and caster oil to make swaging lube from. Have read that proper mix should be about 1lb lanolin and 4oz caster oil. Have been using Imperial sizing lube and hope to get better results from the lanolin. Any one made ther own lube this way and what is the best way for me to mix the two together?

[BABore]

For case sizing, yes. 3 Tbls of liquid lanolin to 16 ozs of 91% rubbing alcohol. Works way better than Imperial and cheaper too. I put mine up in a small spry bottle. Need to shake it up before use.

[BT Sniper]

Sounds good I may try that for case lube but I have the solid Anhydrous Lanolin to use for swage lube.

Thsanks

[BABore]

The solid stuff is a real BI-itch to thin down. Even tried heating it up first. The liquid is the way to go. I use the other stuff for lube making mostly.

[Hud]

BT......your on the right track..... Start with the 4 oz and if it's too thick add another 1/2 oz etc..... The last I mixed took about 5 to 5 1/2 oz for the mixture I was satisfied with..... a little heat and blend the two together.

Hud

[deltaenterprizes]

I just use STP

[Crooked Creek]

I use Corbin's Swaging Lube...lanolin base. I covered a method of application (Tupperware bowel) in another thread. Dave Corbin's book, "Discover Swaging" says, and I quote: "Two of the very best lubricants are anhydrous lanolin (an animal oil, from sheep) and a special drawing lubricant manufactured just for the purpose, called Draw Die Lube. Another excellent swaging lubricant is a mixture of half lanolin and half castor oil, melted together to form a thick paste." That may be the recipe you are looking for Brian.
He also talks of the ease of removal of a lanolin lube versus some of the motor oil additives in this quote: " There are a number of suitable lubricants, including some of the motor oil additives like STP, but all of the heavy synthetics seem to have the problem of being messy to handle and hard to remove from hands, clothing, and bullets."
I assume most people are have read, or at least are familiar with the "teachings" in Corbin's book('s) on the subject. If not, it's good reading, and yes I know there is a lot more out there.

[Bullshop]

We use Bullplate
BIC/BS

[wonderwolf]

How well does draw die lube work? and whats the cost compared to others?

[Lead pot]

I mix my swage lube 4-1. 4 parts Lanolin 1 part Castor oil.
If it's a little stiff just thin it down, if to thin add some.
I use a screw driver to mix it.

[BT Sniper]

Mixed 1 lb of the solid lanolin to 4 oz of caster oil today. Added the oil to the tub of lanolin and used a hand drill and 1/4" wire with circle bent on the end. Only took a minute to get a good mix. Came out looking like elmers wood glue in color and texture. It thinkened up allitle when it cooled to the garage temp.
Seems to work real good. Is it just personal preferance as to how think or thin it needs to be, or does it actually make a difference in it's ability to do it's job?
How do you guys apply the lube to the jacket before swaging? Seems like only need alittle and with over a pound of lube now I should have a life time supply.

[Crooked Creek]

BT Sniper,
The pound will indeed last you a long, long time ! A very, very, thin coat is all that is required, and all you want, in order to prevent lube build up in the die and "lube dents" in the finished bullets. Of course, the heavy hunting bullets you are making from spent cartridge cases may well have different requirements than the bench rest match quality bullets of my experience. As far as how to apply, I covered the subject (again, my method for J-4 and Sierra match jackets) in detail in another posting using a Tupperware bowel. Whatever method you choose, make certain that you do not get lube inside the jacket or on the core !!