Ruger Security Six question

[Chill Wills]

If the Ruger Security Six was in production and basically a good revolver, why did Ruger end production? It is a strong machine. I hear, though strong, it is not the double action revolver S&W can make, could make.

The GP-100 had to have lots of cost to bring it to market, R&D, set-up the production line and work the bugs out.

I wonder if Ruger's newer DA revolver production has exceeded all the old Security Six revolvers made and was it a smart choice?

BTW- I am contemplating getting a Ruger Security Six for my 21 year old son who wants a handgun for camping and fishing next summer. It will be his first handgun of his own. He has been shooting mine since he was big enough to hold one. My ROA, camping was a big fun deal for him. He is 6' 3" now but here is a picture of him getting the feel of a friends repeater.

[Nobade]

The story I had heard were the Security Six frames would eventually crack after huge numbers of full power magnum loads so they redesigned it and beefed it up with the GP-100. I also liked them a lot better than the later revolver, much lighter and easier to handle.

[rkrcpa]

I've never heard of the Six series having any kind of problems. My understanding is that the Six series revolvers were expensive to manufacture. In fact, Bill Ruger was quoted as saying he never made money on the Security Six.

[pworley1]

My Security Six has been shooting both 357 and 38 special without any issues for nearly 50 years. I like it better than my S&W's.

[Slugster]

I believe the Security Six was a victim of the spawning of the 'Age of the Wondernine'.

[Ed_Shot]

My Security Six has been shooting both 357 and 38 special without any issues for nearly 50 years. I like it better than my S&W's.

Same here. I like it better than the GP100 too.

[G W Wade]

Another fan of the Security 6 GW

[rintinglen]

The tale I heard was that Bill Ruger thought the GP-100 sales would suffer if they continued production of both guns. The GP-100 was perceived to be a better answer to the S&W L-frame revolvers gaining popularity at the time, but revolvers in general were losing popularity as the 9 mm revolution hit town. In 1976, I can only recall two high-cap 9mm service pistols on the market--the Browning HP and the S&W 59. 10 years later there were at least a dozen on the market. Every Glock, Beretta, S&W or other model sold to Law Enforcement not only shrank the potential Market, but resulted in a flood of low cost police trade-ins, mainly S&W, but also Colt and Ruger revolvers as well. Bill Ruger thought that having two similar revolvers for sale in a shrinking market would only result in them "eating each others young" and instead directed that the blocky, but reliable 85 series semi-autos be given the green light and rushed to market.

In retrospect, I think he was probably right, though at the time I thought the Security Six was the better choice. That is reflected in the fact that I have 3 Sixes, but only one GP 100. I carry a Speed Six on occasion.

[charlie b]

I am another fan of the Six. Instead of the GP100 I went to the SP101 3" (sadly sold). They also have the 4.2" barrel with nice sights on it.

[contender1]

I've never heard of the Six series having any kind of problems. My understanding is that the Six series revolvers were expensive to manufacture. In fact, Bill Ruger was quoted as saying he never made money on the Security Six.

^^^THIS^^^ (sorta)

History lesson.
Bill built the SS to compete with S&W for the LEO business. But his design,, while about as good as it can be,, cost more to make,, to where he couldn't get the price point down to sell to LEO's "low bidder" attitudes. The SS is a stronger & better gun than the S&W M-19,, but had (2) drawbacks. It's expense,, and the "feel" of the action.
Then,, as some departments started looking at & going to semi-auto's,, it didn't help LEO sales for neither company.
The GP was a design,, that allowed production expenses to be reduced (over the SS,) AND was still stronger than the K-frames. And it also addressed the competing L framed S&W's.

During the years of the SS line,, (Security-Six, Service-Six, and Speed-Six) from 1970 until 1988,, there were approximately 1.6 million guns built.

Now,, over that 18 years of production,, they finally did reach a point that they made money & weren't losing money. BUT<, since Ruger was a publicly traded company,, the profit margin wasn't where they wanted it. So,, the design team developed the SP & GP line. Both of which enjoy the same basic design, and later on the Super Redhawk. All 3 are still in production,, and combined,, they have well exceeded the 1.6 million SS line in production. I don't have current up to date production numbers for the GP line but it's well past 1 million by itself.

The design of the Security-Six hasn't ever suffered "cracked frames" or other such anomalies that have plagued a few of the S&W line. The S&W M-19 was a fine carry gun,, shoots just fine,, and has a sweet action. But a steady diet of full power magnum loads did create more than a few issues for S&W. Hence the intro of the L-framed guns. Many well known & respected gun writers discussed the necessity of "maintenance" & inspections of S&W K-framed gun that were subjected to large amounts of full power loads.
No doubt,, the S&W action is a totally different design,, and as such,, very, very good in those older guns. But the Rugers are built like a tank,, and outlive most shooters.

So,, back to a bit of the OP's questions. Yes,, the GP line has exceeded production of the SS line. Yes,, it cost a bit to design the GP,, but not as bad as you may think. Plus the expense of that has been recovered by the long term production.

And yes,, the Security-Six is a great choice for such a gift as you have planned. The SS is still regarded as one of the best available by many shooters.

[scattershot]

I have had three of them, but sadly two are gone. Wish I had them back. The one I have left is a 200th year 6”, and it’s a fine pistol. No complaints at all.

[georgerkahn]

I bought a 2 3/4" stainless .357 Security Six quite a few years back, and it still remains one of my most favourite handguns! Its balance is, to me, awesome, and --again for me -- pretty much the only short-barreled handgun I can consistently hit target with. On a fishing trip maybe 40 years back, a buddy spied a Styrofoam cup in the fork of a distant tree, voicing, "twenty bucks says you can't hit it from here." 321690 Much to my surprise (and $$$ profit) -- the cup did not tumble, but the hole from my shot clearly went dead-center through it! It was my EDC "forever", until maybe three years ago when I "replaced it" with a Ruger SP101.
I'd not hesitate a milli-second in getting one of these for your son! Imho, one of the greatest revolvers ever made!
gep

[country gent]

I prefer the lines and feel of the security six over the gp 100s. I have a 4" blued model here that was the wifes. I believe the gp 100 was a more "modular" design making manufacture easier.

[georgerkahn]

I prefer the lines and feel of the security six over the gp 100s. I have a 4" blued model here that was the wifes. I believe the gp 100 was a more "modular" design making manufacture easier.

One "feature" I generally dislike re Ruger revolvers is, to me, the handle it toooooo short. I do not have large mitts, but for me on most I get my thumb on left side of grip, and all of middle plus part of ring finger as all I can on the right -- with pinky finger below. For me, not a lot of support for, say, a full-house .357 Magnum load! On the other hand, the grip which comes on the Security Six is, indeed, marvelously long enough to provide a great shooter grip. Another of its great features is the design of grip/trigger guard is such that for me I never get my knuckle beat up from firing!
geo

[rintinglen]

My understanding is that the Six series revolvers were expensive to manufacture. In fact, Bill Ruger was quoted as saying he never made money on the Security Six.

I have read the same thing, but regard it as hoeey. The S&W revolvers had forged frames; the Rugers were investment cast. Investment casting results in a piece requiring significantly less finishing machine work.

Now at first, back in the early 70's, Ruger marketed the Security 6 at roughly 10% under the competing S&W's. But look at a model 19 from that era and compare the finish to that of a similar Ruger. Quite simply, the polish on the Smith was at least twice as costly as the brushed finish on the Ruger. By the later part of the 70's, Ruger prices were pretty close to those of S&W, and their guns were less costly to make. Ruger made money, especially once the cost of the dies and tooling were amortized over a few hundred thousand guns.

[Electrod47]

My Security Six has been shooting both 357 and 38 special without any issues for nearly 50 years. I like it better than my S&W's.

Ditto.....

[Jtarm]

I've never heard of the Six series having any kind of problems. My understanding is that the Six series revolvers were expensive to manufacture. In fact, Bill Ruger was quoted as saying he never made money on the Security Six.

^^^^this^^^^

[d4xycrq]

I remember when the GP100s came out….and remember thinking “…this is an answer to a question no one asked…”. That said, they sold lots of them! I already had a Colt Trooper MkIII, so never had a Six or GP100.

[Bigslug]

The GP-100 at least has the advantage of current support. I can't speak to the older "Six" line of guns, but the GP's, SP's, and Redhawks are solid tanks that I've never found serious flies on. They need a little wear-in with some extra lube in the innards, but once done, they're about as smooth as anything.

[Chill Wills]

Wow! There were some really well written post that provided a lot of information. Thanks for answering the questions I had.

[Elpatoloco]

I had to get my father to purchase my Security Six for me as I was not yet 21 but got accepted to the Police Academy. We were the last class to go through that particular school Revolvers. Circa 1993
Gun was new but old stock.
My home got broken into and the handgun was stolen but later recovered. I had to pay the pawn broker to get my own gun back. That or drive 250 miles to the town it was pawned and go through an ownership hearing. I figured paying the pawn was cheaper. " Pawn Shops are Legalized Thieves IMHO".

Still have the gun and it'll be the last I ever sell. I'd be afraid to know the round count.

It has taken a bunch of game. I never carried it as I went into corrections work and never took the state certification peace officer test despite graduating top of my class.....I shortly decided there was better ways to make a living.

Mine has a factory Pachmayer style slick grip with ruger medalions. I doubt it was a scarce model, but Ive never seen another one like it.

[tctender]

I have one of the Security Six and one GP100 both 4'' stainless. I carried both of them during my law enforcement career before we went to the semi auto. They are both nice guns but i really liked the SS as i had it for a while before the GP.

[FergusonTO35]

I have one of the last Service Sixes ever made, a 1988 stainless .38 Special. I don't shoot it much, but I do really like it and never gonna sell it.

[AnthonyB]

My Dad bought a Security Six for me when I was a kid. I much preferred the five inch Smith M27 he later gave me, but I haven't been stupid enough to sell the Ruger. I didn't know what I had in that M27 and sold it to a West Point classmate to finance my honeymoon. My Ruger now lives with my son and will never leave the family.
I've been waiting for Outpost to join this one...
Tony

[fixit]

One of my greatest regrets was selling my six inch stainless security six.... In a moment of insanity, I figured I needed the money more than the gun, and the rest is history. It was bought new and didn't have more than three boxes of ammo through it. Being young, married, with little kids, it paid some bills, but didn't last long. Never again!

[Kosh75287]

I own one Security Six frame Ruger, a 4" Police Service Six. I bought it in 1982 and, because I thought Elmer Keith and Jeff Cooper could do no wrong, I ran BUCKETS of their loads through it. It still shoots as well as it did, the first time I shot it. I've experienced no loosening, cracking, erosion, nor other problems.
Its double-action pull and single action let-off are not in the same league as the S&W revolvers, but they started out at least "OKAY", and did nothing but get better. I've never had the trigger worked, but I am considering it.
As it stands, I wouldn't trade it for anything except (MAYBE) a NIB S&W M27 5" revolver. Even then, I'm not really sure.

[Nobade]

Man, you guys are making me miss my old Ruger. I think I'll start keeping an eye open for another one. Mine had one badly misaligned chamber that would spit lead and make wild shots but the other five were dead on.

[Chill Wills]

A like new but used (1984) Blue 4" Security Six arrived here today. Minus 10 and snowing so no shooting it. That is Okay. I pin gauged the throats - it is tight. All six passed 0.357" and held 0.358" ZZ pins. I do not have pins for the in between sizes. I have never slugged a barrel on a revolver.
What arrangement and tools do you use to you use to push the Pb round ball (375") in from the cone?

[shooting on a shoestring]

The way I skin that cat is with 2 pieces of 5/16” aluminum rod cut to a little less length than the cylinder window. I drive a 36 cal ball down the barrel from the muzzle and stop about mid-barrel. Insert 1 rod in the barrel from the forcing cone. With muzzle up, I put the second rod between the recoil shield (over the firing pin hole) and the 1st rod. Then I drive the ball down until it contacts the first rod and proceed to expand the ball by peening it. Remove the 5/16” rods and drive the expanded ball out through the forcing cone.

Crude but effective.

[Nobade]

The way I skin that cat is with 2 pieces of 5/16” aluminum rod cut to a little less length than the cylinder window. I drive a 36 cal ball down the barrel from the muzzle and stop about mid-barrel. Insert 1 rod in the barrel from the forcing cone. With muzzle up, I put the second rod between the recoil shield (over the firing pin hole) and the 1st rod. Then I drive the ball down until it contacts the first rod and proceed to expand the ball by peening it. Remove the 5/16” rods and drive the expanded ball out through the forcing cone.

Crude but effective.

Good idea.

[Chill Wills]

It warmed up to 10 above and I got out to shoot it. Very light firing pin strikes with 20-25% failing to fire. I think this revolver dates to 1984. Blue.

Is this a known issue with-in a small run of this revolver?

I think it is going back to the seller but we are dancing over it at this point. He is asking me to find a gunsmith and get a estimate. Only parts changers in this area. I don't have time to drive out-of-state to find someone qualified to address it. A shame. In all other ways it is a very nice gun.

[contender1]

It's possible someone swapped out the mainspring. Find a factory one & try it.
It's what I'd do. And the seller,, ask for a partial refund to offset the expense of getting it worked on.

[Larry Gibson]

It's possible someone swapped out the mainspring. Find a factory one & try it.
It's what I'd do. And the seller,, ask for a partial refund to offset the expense of getting it worked on.

This is what I'd do also. Shame to give up on such a fine revolver for want of a replacement spring.

[Larry Gibson]

It's possible someone swapped out the mainspring. Find a factory one & try it.
It's what I'd do. And the seller,, ask for a partial refund to offset the expense of getting it worked on.

This is what I'd do also. Shame to give up on such a fine revolver for want of a replacement spring.

Brownell's has them in stock

BROWNELLS - RDA-101 PRO-SPRING KIT FOR THE RUGER DOUBLE ACTION
(2.0)
$12.99

In stock

[Chill Wills]

The mainspring idea is a good one. For starters, I will look at it with the grips off.

I am no revolver-smith but, with the revolver empty, I did cock, hold the hammer back, pull the trigger/fire the gun and looked at the pin protrusion between the cylinder and rear frame. It barely clears the frame. More, ....then I pushed the transfer bar hard into the pin and it did not move the pin any closer to the would-be primer. It acts like something is stopping it from moving any more. I can see why there were misfires. In fairness, there may be more to it than that and maybe I am not testing it correctly.

In a rifle, I would check the pin length, but as said, I know little about revolver clock works.

I'll check the mainspring.

[Chill Wills]

The spring look good and feels strong with smooth ends. Not the look of a clipped coil. That does not mean it was not messed with but I don't think it was. I will keep it in mind.

[rintinglen]

Buy a small washer that will just fit over the main spring guide, about a 3/16 of an inch. Ck the gun to assure it is unloaded. Put on safety glasses.

Cock the hammer with the grips removed. Using a small pin, nail, or punch, insert it in the hole in the main spring guide and pull the trigger to release the tension on the hammer and ease it forwards. Note that the long end of the main spring guide plate goes toward the muzzle. Carefully lift the Main spring assembly up and remove it from the gun.

In a vise, clamp the ball end of the main spring guide tightly between two pieces of leather or old inner tube (to prevent marring the guide), really any pad will do. Grip the end of the Main Spring guide nearest the retention pin firmly with a pair of pliers and remove the pin, allowing the spring to push the guide plate up against the pliers. Carefully ease the spring tension until the spring has fully expanded. Place the washer on the end of the spring, place main spring guide plate over that and grip it from the sides with the pliers. Depress the spring until you can insert the pin back in the hole on the main spring guide. Remove the Main Spring Guide assembly from the vice and insert it back into the gun, making sure the long leg of the guide plate goes to the front. Cock the hammer, and then remove the pin. Try the action. You should feel an increase in the trigger weight as the washer has preloaded the main spring, thereby increasing the weight of the spring tension. This will most likely get you shooting until the new main spring arrives.

17617 RUGER DOUBLE ACTN XP HAMMER SPRING 17LB Pak of 1 - $4.29 Wolff springs-- you get three for 9 bucks plus shipping.

[contender1]

If the firing pin isn't protruding very much,, I'd also look at doing a soaking of the firing pin area with a good de-greaser & solvent, followed by air pressure to blow out any potential crud inside there.

Another way to check the movement of the firing pin, is to put the gun in a padded vise, cock the hammer, and using a small punch, push the rear of the firing pin to see how far it protrudes into the frame window.

[Larry Gibson]

The installed spring should look like this;

322362

With the hammer cocked and pushing in on the transfer bar the firing pin should protrude like this;

322363

[Chill Wills]

322363

This is a very good image of what mine does not look like. Can we agree to call the firing-pin (FP) protrusion in this picture 80% into the available space between the frame and the rear of the cylinder? If this is 80%, my revolver is only capable of 45-50% even when the transfer bar is pushed hard to help extend the FP.
BTW- Pushing on it does nothing more. I am unable to move the FP any more by trying to help it past the protrusion point it goes on its own. It is against a solid stop.

So, ...given the very new condition of this used revolver, I wonder if it came with this defect and has been living in the back of someones safe or sock drawer all these decades?

There is a small chance there is foreign material in the works but I have looked and sprayed it with compressed air.

If the FP is out of spec, a replacement of standard length should fix it.

[Walkingwolf]

I've never heard of the Six series having any kind of problems. My understanding is that the Six series revolvers were expensive to manufacture. In fact, Bill Ruger was quoted as saying he never made money on the Security Six.That was my understanding, but IMO they could revive it using the same production and innovations as the GP with a medium frame. Maybe call it the SS100.

[Sig556r]

SS are built ‘like a tank’

[oldhenry]

Years back I held an FFL. Gil Hebard (spelling?) was a distributor & had a special on SS 2.75" bbl Speed Sixes @ $159.00 with Pachmyer (spelling ?) grips. I ordered 3 (1 each for my 2 daughters & 1 for a close friend. My only regret is that I didn't order 10 more. I had learned to do a decent trigger/action job on the SS series. My daughters are both grandmothers now & often visit with their Rugers, We shoot IHMSA chickens @ 20 yds (with eye protection). One daughter will not stop until she gets 6 for 6. The other daughter (a retired school teacher usually shoots 50%.

I had a 6" blued Security 6 that I was able to eventually arrive @ a SA & DA trigger that would rival any K frame S&W. I did not pamper that gun shooting gas checked RCBS 162 gr. ww cast boolets over #296. It never bobbled. I few years later I sold it to a very close friend: something that I wish I hadn't done. Every time I see him i ask if he still has that 6" SS & remind him that I'd buy it hack from him. He's smarter than I was & says he'll never sell that gun.

I now have 2 GP100s. A 3" SS compact & a 5" blued: both in .44 Spec. They are great guns, but I still miss that 6" blued SS.

Henry

[oldhenry]

Years back I held an FFL. Gil Hebard (spelling?) was a distributor & had a special on SS 2.75" bbl Speed Sixes @ $159.00 SS with Pachmyer (spelling ?) grips. I ordered 3 (1 each for my 2 daughters & 1 for a close friend. My only regret is that I didn't order 10 more. I had learned to do a decent trigger/action job on the SS series. My daughters are both grandmothers now & often visit with their Rugers, We shoot IHMSA chickens @ 20 yds (with eye protection). One daughter will not stop until she gets 6 for 6. The other daughter (a retired school teacher usually shoots 50%.

I had a 6" blued Security 6 that I was able to eventually arrive @ a SA & DA trigger that would rival any K frame S&W. I did not pamper that gun shooting gas checked RCBS 162 gr. ww cast boolets with #296. It never bobbled. I few years later I sold it to a very close friend: something that I wish I hadn't done. Every time I see him i ask if he still has that 6" SS & remind him that I'd buy it hack from him. He's smarter than I was & says he'll never sell that gun.

I now have 2 GP100s. A 3" SS compact & a 5" blued: both in .44 Spec. They are great guns, but I still miss that 6" blued SS.

Henry

[jrayborn]

You may be able to increase the protrusion of the firing pin by removing material from the hammer "nose". This allows the portion of the hammer that actually contacts the transfer bar to move it farther. You can slowly remove material until the transfer bar will just slide down as the trigger is released and the hammer is held tightly forward. You don't want the hammer to "pinch" the transfer bar, however in my experience, the hammer spring is rarely strong enough to capture the transfer bar.

Top arrow shows where to remove material. Second is where the transfer bar gets hit. If my thinker is working this morning, I think I remember being able to remove around .010 - .015 pretty easily.

I have been very successful in the past doing this...

PM if you have questions.

[Anchorite]

I have two speed sixes and intend to never part with either. IMO, it’s what Ruger should have “reintroduced” instead of the SP101.

[Walkingwolf]

I have two speed sixes and intend to never part with either. IMO, it’s what Ruger should have “reintroduced” instead of the SP101.

I agree!

[Chill Wills]

You may be able to increase the protrusion of the firing pin by removing material from the hammer "nose". This allows the portion of the hammer that actually contacts the transfer bar to move it farther. You can slowly remove material until the transfer bar will just slide down as the trigger is released and the hammer is held tightly forward. You don't want the hammer to "pinch" the transfer bar, however in my experience, the hammer spring is rarely strong enough to capture the transfer bar.

Top arrow shows where to remove material. Second is where the transfer bar gets hit. If my thinker is working this morning, I think I remember being able to remove around .010 - .015 pretty easily.

I have been very successful in the past doing this...

PM if you have questions.

That is a good bit of information. I am wondering though.... if I can not (holding the hammer back) push the FP via transfer bar any more into the back of the frame and make the FP move more, isn't the FP as far as it will go? ...no mater how much more the hammer hits it?
Is the pin just too short, is the stop or shoulder on the pin/frame keeping the whole works from reaching the 0.025 or 0.030"more needed to fire the primer like a normal one the picture above? I wish I knew. I don't want to dig into this revolver. I need to return it to the Gun Broker Seller and get my $ back. I hate paying shipping both ways only to do the QC for some seller.

[jrayborn]

That is a good bit of information. I am wondering though.... if I can not (holding the hammer back) push the FP via transfer bar any more into the back of the frame and make the FP move more, isn't the FP as far as it will go? ...no mater how much more the hammer hits it?
Is the pin just too short, is the stop or shoulder on the pin/frame keeping the whole works from reaching the 0.025 or 0.030"more needed to fire the primer like a normal one the picture above? I wish I knew. I don't want to dig into this revolver. I need to return it to the Gun Broker Seller and get my $ back. I hate paying shipping both ways only to do the QC for some seller.

Well now, I think you may be 100% correct. I feel like the chump that has just been stumped... :)

[Larry Gibson]

Can you get a small screw driver blade between the transfer bar and the firing pin? If so does it push the firing pin in further? If it does then probably the transfer bar is ill fitted. If not then the firing pin is too short or perhaps firing pin spring is kinked of jammed?

[Chill Wills]

Can you get a small screw driver blade between the transfer bar and the firing pin? If so does it push the firing pin in further? If it does then probably the transfer bar is ill fitted. If not then the firing pin is too short or perhaps firing pin spring is kinked of jammed?


That is what I was thinking too and I was being a bit lazy and not done it yet. After dinner tonight I will get out in the shop and have a look.

[georgerkahn]

It warmed up to 10 above and I got out to shoot it. Very light firing pin strikes with 20-25% failing to fire. I think this revolver dates to 1984. Blue.

Is this a known issue with-in a small run of this revolver?

I think it is going back to the seller but we are dancing over it at this point. He is asking me to find a gunsmith and get a estimate. Only parts changers in this area. I don't have time to drive out-of-state to find someone qualified to address it. A shame. In all other ways it is a very nice gun.

For a fact, I had a S&W Model 610 which behaved same as yours -- maybe 25% firing! To make a really lonnnng story short, there was absolutely nothing wrong or amiss with the revolver. It turns out the grips' screw (Pachymyr) just snugged against the mainspring to cause this! All *I* had to do to get 100% firing was put on a s et of (Hogue) grips!
Sum'thin you might look for?
BEST!
geo

[Chill Wills]

Well, that was revealing! With the hammer pulled back part way, the Transfer Bar is still low and the firing pin (FP) is accessible. The transfer bar moves up as the hammer is drawn back to full.

With the hammer part way back making clear access to the FP, I could push the FP all the way into the space shown above in Larry's good picture. So, now I know the FP is good!!! The transfer bar is not pushing the FP far enough because of something to do with its geometry or the FP is not getting hit with enough speed to overcome the spring around the pin.


George, you just cracked 3000 posts!

[20:1]

Replacing the springs in a used gun is never a bad idea. You really don't know if that's even a correct spring for the gun.
https://www.gunsprings.com/RUGER/DOUBLE+ACTION+SERIES/cID3/mID52/dID230

[Kuffar]

Yeah. I have both but like my Security 6 better. It's a 1976 Bicentennial. I think someone before me did a trigger job on it. I only have one firearm with a better trigger and that's my Colt King Cobra. Both of them are like glass.

[tja6435]

I have 3 Sixes and 2 GP’s. Of the Sixes, 2 are 2.75” Speed Six’s and the last one is a Security Six with 4” barrel. I had a 6” Security Six but I gave it to my father in law.

Of my GP’s, I have a 2.5” and a 6”. I kind of think the trigger is lighter/smoother in the GP’s but even the 2.5” doesn’t carry as nicely as the Speed Six’s.

I like revolvers, I almost carry a revolver. Recently it’s been a 3.75” Super Blackhawk as I’ve been working way out in the mountains solo and need to be mindful of bears.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I think the Security Six was the best double action revolver ever made. Its design was pure genius. The GP100 makes a good club.

[Chill Wills]

Thanks all for the help in diagnosing the problem.
This revolver is in great shape and 40 years old. Judging by the almost lack of cylinder bolt drag mark and near 100% overall finish, this revolver had seen little use. The main spring is 40 years old too and is a little tired.
The suggestion to shim the mainspring and test again worked. Thanks to all!!!
322770
I shimmed it with three washers not knowing what it would take to make a difference. One or two may have been enough. Three gave 100% firing in an about 60-80 round test (I didn't count exactly) using a variety of ammo and primer brands.
I am smiling, the addition of the 3 washers produced a double action pull that was a gym workout! One, maybe two washers may be enough to produce the 100% fire reliability and have a much better DA pull.

The seller offered to buy and send a new spring.

[tigweldit]

My Security Six is my go to .357. I shoot it more than my Python.

[georgerkahn]

I have had a few revolvers in the past fifty or so years, and "for beauty" my #1 favourite is my 6" Ruger New Model Single Six .22 with Stag grips; "for function", without a doubt the leader of the pack IS my 2.75" stainless Ruger Security Six with Hogue grips! My regular in the woods back-up revolver, the first in cylinder was always a 148-grain wadcutter ahead of a tad more than three grains of Bullseye in a .357 case. I called it my "splat" load...and it worked. Shots 2, 3, and sometimes 4 were standard .38 S&W duty loadings; other #4, as well as 5 and 6 being .357 mag loads. (I do not ever recall pulling trigger, when needed, more than that third shot!)
Yup -- I've had a few much more costly; higher accuracy potential; et cetera -- but again, nothing I've had beats my Security Six!
geo

[omgb]

I have a M19. I had to quit using .357 loads years ago due to wear issues (thousands of rounds). However, the action, both DA and SA, is just beyond description. Smooth, light and just a joy to shoot. I tried a number of Ruger DAs back in the late 70s. They just weren't as slick or smooth. That is actually a plus for LE as you are less likely to get and accidental discharge. I will say this about the Rugers, they are built like a vault. You can feel it when you handle them. I would imagine you would really have to work at shooting one loose if that were your goal. I'm thinking with 11 grains of 2400 under a 150 grain lead Keith bullet, you could never shoot that gun loose, ever.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Glad you got it working. Let’s see some targets!

[beemer]

I have several Six series Rugers. One I bought used in 1978, it had been shot very little. Had a steady diet of 7 grains of Unique and the Lee 140 SWC for over 40 years with untold rounds down the tube. The cylinder finally started rubbing the barrel, it had a rather tight gap anyway. I made a shim from a spring washer and fit it between the cylinder and crane. It fit up perfectly and has been shot some since without any trouble. Maybe not the best fix but it works and sure was cheap enough.

I like these pistols and haven't been without one, usually several, since I turned 21 in 1973. The one I always wanted that never turned up was a 2 3/4" barrel with adjustable sights.

One of my favorites is a 2 3/4' stainless Bi-Centennial Service Six that my Father bought new. It lay on his night stand from 1976 till shortly before he passed in 2013.

[Kosh75287]

I bought my Ruger Police Service Six 4" barrel revolver in 1982. Relying on a Lyman manual from 1971, I used 8.0/Unique/158 gr. LSWC for I dunno HOW many reloads, until someone showed me a newer reloading manual with somewhat reduced charge weights. Bowing to the authority of ALL reloading manuals, I backed off, but I never really noticed adverse results from the original loads. I experienced no sticky extraction, nor (overly) flattened primers, nor cratering, nor other signs.
I think it might be worth revisiting this load data in this revolver, to see exactly what kind of performance it might have developed out of a modest 4" barreled revolver. I'll get back to y'all.

[Rapier]

I do not recall one Security Six I did not have to completely rebuild to get them to perform well enough to leave my shop. The rebuild included replacing the barrels and the cylinder. I started with a first year production gun and bought or traded for a quite a few. Ruger had a run of bad barrels from their jobbers with egg shaped bores in the middle of the barrels. If you slug the barrel and you get to a spot where just finger pressure pushes the slug, there you are, that is the egg shape. Had one with no rifling in it at all in the middle, I quit fooling with making Cougars in my shop. The QC on the Security Six was just poor.
Best way to adjust the hammer to transfer bar contact so as to extend the firing pin is with a strip of 350 wet and dry on a flat square surface, hammer removed, held at 90 degrees to the surface, and only cut the face of the top front, of the the hammer, checking frequently for proper adjustment and that the cut is square and level to the frame stop recess. I use a cutting oil. If you use blue Dykem, it helps to see the cut as it is made. Pay attention to the angle of the factory grind marks and duplicate that angle. Masking tape the hammer areas not to be cut.
Hammers rust on the sides and if you want to dress them, use the same grit and the same angle for bring marks, first thing I look for on a refinish job, angles off, says the entire job was done wrong, no attention to details.

[Chill Wills]

Rapier, If I read your post correctly, one other fix for this light FP strike issue is to leave the spring as is, and slowly remove the top (stop) of the hammer so the part of the hammer that strikes the transfer bar can go farther forward and in turn drive the floating PF farther into the primer. Do I have that right?

That fix would leave a much better (lighter) double action pull.

[jrayborn]

Yup, sure will...

[Chill Wills]

Yup, sure will...

Right.
I read your post and looked at the good photo of the hammer. Thank you for taking the time to post it.

At that time, not knowing if I needed to return the revolver to the seller, I was not ready to make changes I could not restore.

I have committed to the sale and will be keeping the revolver. I may end up trying this. I am not ready to do this yet even though it may (in the end) be the best fix.

First was to get the revolver to work 100%. I will keep gong from here making changes slow and sure as I learn about this.

[Larry Gibson]

Suggest if you try that you just make sure the transfer bar is not stopping the full forward movement of the firing pin.

[Chill Wills]

Following up of the light FP strikes resulting in some mis-firing rounds at about 80% working - 20% failure to fire.


As a test, I put three thin washers under the spring it got 100% firing. The double action in this mod was very heavy! I took out two of the three washers and still got 100% firing.
Meanwhile ...
The Gun Broker seller ordered and had sent two Wolf spring to try. A 14 lb and a 17lb marked reduced and heavy. Both Wolf springs were longer (relaxed) than the spring that came in the revolver. Here is a photo of the lighter 14lb spring next to the spring I removed and replace. Both Wolf springs were a good deal longer than the spring that came with the gun, shown on the left in the picture.
323214
The winter weather has made getting out and testing hard as of late but I did fire 3-cylinders full (18 rounds) and all fired using the installed, lighter 14lb spring here at my house. The double action pull is heavy-er than I would like. I have not done any of the work on the nose of the hammer as described in above posts. I would guess a good revolver-smith could tale a little off the hammer nose and go back to the lighter spring, have a better double action pull and still get 100% reliability.

A tip of the hat to the seller for following up and addressing the problem the best he could from 2000 miles away.