Can't Find an Answer to Lee 9mm Mold

[mgunner]

I'm sure the answer to my basic question is buried in a thread somewhere but the search engine for the site doesn't return anything. I guess there's an issue with the site? So I apologize if this has been asked before.

Need advice on a 9mm Lee mold. I'm just getting into casting; been reloading for 6 years. My 9mm carbine shoots fine using Berry's 9mm 124 gr bullets with diameter of .356.

From reading Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook and 51st Reloading manual, it's recommended to cast a bullet .001-.002 over groove diameter. Lee only offers 9mm molds with a .356 diameter. Here's my question, do you know if Lee 9mm molds cast oversize? If so, by how much?

[243winxb]

Mine is oversize by .002" BUT the alloy used changes the as cast diameter. Antimony making bigger bullets. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/albums/taurus-g3c-9mm-luger.317/

From Lee's link.
Our bullet mold tolerance is stated diameter, +.003/-.000 inch

Always check finished sized bullet diameter. Harder alloys spring back after sizing, by as much as .002" (linotype)

[mgunner]

Mine is oversize by .002" BUT the alloy used changes the as cast diameter. Antimony making bigger bullets. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/albums/taurus-g3c-9mm-luger.317/

From Lee's link.

Always check finished sized bullet diameter. Harder alloys spring back after sizing, by as much as .002" (linotype)

Thank you 243winxb! I'll also check out the link. Appreciate your help. Happy New Year to you!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

mgunner,
welcome to the forum.
.
Honestly, it's a coin toss with Lee molds.
.
I have a story, that will probably not help you, but it's a fun little story. Years ago, I had a older Lee 2 cav 356-120-TC that I liked so much (it dropped .358 bullets), that I bought a new 6 cav of the same mold. The new 6 cav mold dropped .3555" bullets, I wasn't happy, as my guns prefer .357" for size. A month later, I ordered another new 6 cav mold, because I am just that way, and Lee molds are cheap. Guess what, that one dropped .360" bullets.

[frkelly74]

I have several 9mm/357 molds. I do not distinguish between them and rely on my sizers to determine what diameter they end up at. Powder coating is another variable I use when trying for a certain diameter. I have a 995 Highpoint that will digest anything up to .360 but will keyhole .356 boolits. I had a taurus G2c that needed .356 and would choke on anything bigger. So my approach was to get different molds and try them out. Somewhere between the variation in bore sizes and variations in molds there is a good fit given that you have the proper sizing die. It will take you some trial and error to discover what is workable.

[mgunner]

mgunner,
welcome to the forum.
.
Honestly, it's a coin toss with Lee molds.
.
I have a story, that will probably not help you, but it's a fun little story. Years ago, I had a older Lee 2 cav 356-120-TC that I liked so much (it dropped .358 bullets), that I bought a new 6 cav of the same mold. The new 6 cav mold dropped .3555" bullets, I wasn't happy, as my guns prefer .357" for size. A month later, I ordered another new 6 cav mold, because I am just that way, and Lee molds are cheap. Guess what, that one dropped .360" bullets.

Damn, I hope that doesn't happen. The molds are about $50.00 which I know cost less than other brands, but buying something for $50.00 and not being able to use it would be a waste.

Here's another question. Could I use a bullet of a different caliber for my 9mm as long as it's the same weight called for in 9mm reloading data? For example, if I used a mold for a 357 mag that dropped .358 diameter bullets, but weighed 124 grains ( which is a weight shown in the reloading data in my reloading manuals for 9mm), could I just size that .358 diameter bullet down to .357 diameter? Or would I have to seat that 357 mag bullet deeper which would increase the pressure?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

frKelly, reminds me of a Browning Hi Power I had possession of for a while, that thing wouldn't chamber anything larger than .356

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

SNIP>>>

Here's another question. Could I use a bullet of a different caliber for my 9mm as long as it's the same weight called for in 9mm reloading data? For example, if I used a mold for a 357 mag that dropped .358 diameter bullets, but weighed 124 grains ( which is a weight shown in the reloading data in my reloading manuals for 9mm
Yes, many of us do it all the time. The Lee 358-125-RF does great in 9mm




would I have to seat that 357 mag bullet deeper which would increase the pressure?
Maybe have to seat deeper, that is always a consideration when using a different boolit of similar weight of published data...that is something we all run into with castboolits. You just have to take that into consideration when working up a load. Measure case capacity with both boolits, and if there is a measurable reduction in space, then reduce your starting load, and then work up as usual.

[mgunner]

Yes, many of us do it all the time. The Lee 358-125-RF does great in 9mm


Maybe have to seat deeper, that is always a consideration when using a different boolit of similar weight of published data...that is something we all run into with castboolits. You just have to take that into consideration when working up a load. Measure case capacity with both boolits, and if there is a measurable reduction in space, then reduce your starting load, and then work up as usual.

Hmmm, Ok this is something to consider. Thank you for your help. Hope you have a Happy New Year!

[mgunner]

I have several 9mm/357 molds. I do not distinguish between them and rely on my sizers to determine what diameter they end up at. Powder coating is another variable I use when trying for a certain diameter. I have a 995 Highpoint that will digest anything up to .360 but will keyhole .356 boolits. I had a taurus G2c that needed .356 and would choke on anything bigger. So my approach was to get different molds and try them out. Somewhere between the variation in bore sizes and variations in molds there is a good fit given that you have the proper sizing die. It will take you some trial and error to discover what is workable.

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I was wondering if I could substitute a different caliber mold as long as it drops a bullet weight listed for 9mm reloading data. It's something I'll consider. Have a happy new year.

[brokeasajoke]

Mine drops large enough to be lightly sized by a .358 sizer.

[mehavey]

Lee only offers 9mm molds with a .356 diameter....If you (the OP) are going to Powder Coat -- no issue one way or the other,
Size the end/PC'd product to .357

[leadhead]

Hmmm, Ok this is something to consider. Thank you for your help. Hope you have a Happy New Year!

I've been using the Lee 358-125-RF in my 9,s for a long time without a problem.
Get the 6 cavity. You can make a lot of bullets in short order.

[mgunner]

If you (the OP) are going to Powder Coat -- no issue one way or the other,
Size the end/PC'd product to .357

Since this will be the first time casting, I wanted to keep it simple so I'm going to use liquid alox. Once I get the hang of casting, I'll look into powder coating.

[mehavey]

Go ahead and make the bet that the mold will cast at/over spec then.
$39 on the Pass line.... [smilie=w:

[Moleman-]

I've been using the Lee 6 cavity 124gr 2R tumble lube mold for 25-30 years along with liquid alox. Initially the first year I ran them through a Lee sizer but quickly found it wasn't needed and have been shooting them as cast ever since.

[mgunner]

I've been using the Lee 358-125-RF in my 9,s for a long time without a problem.
Get the 6 cavity. You can make a lot of bullets in short order.

I agree, I've been looking at the 6 cavity molds.

[mehavey]

Since this will be the first time casting....I'd recommend the ($39) 2-cavity and make your bones w/ as simple/straightforward a set-up as possible.
After that learning curve, door's open.... [smilie=2:

Concur with shoot as-is for starters/decent-not-overly-flared case mouth.

[mgunner]

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to post here. Your experience has been very helpful. I'm surprised that I received one response let alone so many responses on New Years Eve. So thank you so much for your help.

I've been reading everything posted in this thread, going through my manuals, and I also have some information from Lee Precision. According to them, their molds cast bullets that are .003/.000 inches over the stated size. They say that they usually drop toward the higher side of the range.

Taking all the information I have into consideration, I'm going to go with a Lee 6 Cavity 9mm mold. I'll also order a bullet sizing die for .356. My hope is that the mold will cast a little oversized. Then I'll experiment. I'll shoot some cast bullets that are unsized, and some that have been run through the bullet sizing die to see what works best.

Hope you all have a Happy New Year!

[mehavey]

I'll also order a bullet sizing die for .356.Strongly recommend the OP order the Lee 0.357 sizer, and load/shoot that for 9mm cast.

[Wayne Smith]

If you are going to use a boolit from another cartridge design pay as much attention to the length as the weight. How deep the boolit sets in the case is important in pistol loading. The deeper the boolit sets in the case the higher pressure the load.

[Finster101]

Strongly recommend the OP order the Lee 0.357 sizer, and load/shoot that for 9mm cast.

I have to agree. Don't waste money on a .356 sizer, get a .357.

[frkelly74]

I agree with .357 as a starting point for a sizing die. One thing to think about concerning Lee sizing dies is that they can be considered adjustable as long as you want to go larger. I have a die marked .356 that I have polished out to actual .3585 diameter. I also have a die marked .244 that I drilled and polished to .268. I wanted a large 6.5mm die and none were available easily, but the .244 was. The fun is in the tinkering.

[Rich/WIS]

Might want to slug your barrel, last 9mm I had was an mid 80's CZ 75 that slugged .357.

[GrizzLeeBear]

+1 on the .357 sizer die.

Another thing I don't think anyone mentioned is that if the mold cast undersize you can "beagle" it with a couple small pieces of high temp. flue tape. I have had success doing this with several molds, include a 6 cavity 356-125-2r.

[Dusty Bannister]

I think the OP is having trouble finding a clear answer to a very fluid quality control issue that does occur with Lee molds. Some cast as stated, many cast over sized. It might be better to get the mold of your choice and IF there is an issue, THEN the forum members are more than happy to give specific advice on how to resolve the issue or at least offer a work around.

[Finster101]

For ALOX or powder coating in the future a tumble lube design would be a good choice as well. The 124 grain RN is a nice design that should easily run in any gun.

[243winxb]

Alloys with antimony, will make bullets larger, harder & lighter. As cast & after sizing.

Manufacturers of molds regulate molds with their alloy. Lyman #2 is very different, compared to lee.

Lee- Our bullet mold weights for our rifle and pistol bullet molds are based in a 95% Lead / 5% Tin mixture.

[mgunner]

Strongly recommend the OP order the Lee 0.357 sizer, and load/shoot that for 9mm cast.

I hope I get lucky; I ordered everything last night before I saw your post. Guess I'll have to see what happens.

[Bazoo]

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to post here. Your experience has been very helpful. I'm surprised that I received one response let alone so many responses on New Years Eve. So thank you so much for your help.

I've been reading everything posted in this thread, going through my manuals, and I also have some information from Lee Precision. According to them, their molds cast bullets that are .003/.000 inches over the stated size. They say that they usually drop toward the higher side of the range.

Taking all the information I have into consideration, I'm going to go with a Lee 6 Cavity 9mm mold. I'll also order a bullet sizing die for .356. My hope is that the mold will cast a little oversized. Then I'll experiment. I'll shoot some cast bullets that are unsized, and some that have been run through the bullet sizing die to see what works best.

Hope you all have a Happy New Year!

Happy New Year, and welcome to cb.gl forum.

What else do people do on New Years other than ask/answer bullet questions or work on making ammo? I know I did.

I can't really offer any advice on 9mm, since I've never loaded for it. I would, however, be glad to offer measurements for anything I have even if I don't have it on my website yet.

[Bazoo]

Alloys with antimony, will make bullets larger, harder & lighter. As cast & after sizing.

Manufacturers of molds regulate molds with their alloy. Lyman #2 is very different, compared to lee.

Lee- Our bullet mold weights for our rifle and pistol bullet molds are based in a 95% Lead / 5% Tin mixture.

Thanks! I didn't know they regulated to a specific alloy.

[jdgabbard]

This will possibly ruffle some feathers. But honestly, I stopped caring about ruffling feathers a long time ago. So...

The short version is that Lee has had a reputation for decades of cutting molds that are undersized, and/or oblong in the X/Y axis, as well as many other issues. Do they make usable molds? Sure they do, and often times if you're willing to do some work to them they can be quite nice molds. But I have not recently, and will not likely, ever buy another 2-cav lee mold. Even the new ones that I have see are junk in my opinion. Outside of being a cheap mold to see if this is a hobby you're interested in enough to keep at, and this being a cheap mold you can afford until you can afford a nice mold, I see no purpose in buying a piece of junk like one of Lee's 2-cav molds. Personally I'd rather have a nice 1-cav Lyman than a junk 2-cav Lee.

Now, I have a slightly different opinion of their 6-Cavity molds. These are generally of a nicer quality. And while they often do have a few small issues (X/Y oblong issues and Undersized bullets do still exist, though not as frequently as their 2cav brethren), their price for the bang is well worth the cost in my opinion. The downside is their limited number of designs. And some designs they do not even offer in 6cav molds. Two examples of molds I would TOTALLY buy from Lee if they offered them in 6cav are the 356-102-1R and the 365-95-1R. These are primarily designed with the .380 and the 9mak in mind. But they don't offer them in 6cavs, only 2cavs. Same issue with their rifle molds, I would totally buy a C312-185-1R in a 6cav. But they don't offer one, and thus I'm stuck with the 2cav version I purchased nearly 20 years ago that I have lapped to round, and done some work on to get usable. But because of the durability issues of their older molds, I use this mold very infrequently.

Here in lies another problem, if you're looking at getting a 6cav mold, you'll likely need a bottom pour pot. Though, it is possible to run a 6cav mold with a ladle, I tend to think you'll spend more time melting lead in a small pot than you'd spend casting. SO if you're wanting to stay cheap a small pot and ladle may be the ticket, but you'll likely want a 1cav or 2cav mold to go along with them. And if that is what you're doing, I'd suggest looking at a nice used Lyman/Ideal mold before looking at a Lee 2cav.

Thats my .02. Some people will get upset with this, thinking it's like shunning Lee reloading equipment because Dillon is the best (Go Blue or Go Home as they used to say). That is totally not the case. I pretty much exclusively use Lee reloading presses. Their molds are just a steamy pile of dung...

[mehavey]

I'm not upset (at least on this issue... and the day is young 8-) ),
but why would 6 Cav mantech be different from the 2-Cav ?

[dondiego]

I probably wouldn't be a caster if it weren't for LEE. I didn't have much money when I was working my way through college, but I wanted to shoot!

[jdgabbard]

I'm not upset (at least on this issue... and the day is young 8-) ),
but why would 6 Cav mantech be different from the 2-Cav ?

They seem to just have a better overall design and QC where the 6cav molds are concerned. Trust me, I want to like Lee molds, but their 2cavs are made to a price, not to a quality.

[mgunner]

This will possibly ruffle some feathers. But honestly, I stopped caring about ruffling feathers a long time ago. So...

The short version is that Lee has had a reputation for decades of cutting molds that are undersized, and/or oblong in the X/Y axis, as well as many other issues. Do they make usable molds? Sure they do, and often times if you're willing to do some work to them they can be quite nice molds. But I have not recently, and will not likely, ever buy another 2-cav lee mold. Even the new ones that I have see are junk in my opinion. Outside of being a cheap mold to see if this is a hobby you're interested in enough to keep at, and this being a cheap mold you can afford until you can afford a nice mold, I see no purpose in buying a piece of junk like one of Lee's 2-cav molds. Personally I'd rather have a nice 1-cav Lyman than a junk 2-cav Lee.

Now, I have a slightly different opinion of their 6-Cavity molds. These are generally of a nicer quality. And while they often do have a few small issues (X/Y oblong issues and Undersized bullets do still exist, though not as frequently as their 2cav brethren), their price for the bang is well worth the cost in my opinion. The downside is their limited number of designs. And some designs they do not even offer in 6cav molds. Two examples of molds I would TOTALLY buy from Lee if they offered them in 6cav are the 356-102-1R and the 365-95-1R. These are primarily designed with the .380 and the 9mak in mind. But they don't offer them in 6cavs, only 2cavs. Same issue with their rifle molds, I would totally buy a C312-185-1R in a 6cav. But they don't offer one, and thus I'm stuck with the 2cav version I purchased nearly 20 years ago that I have lapped to round, and done some work on to get usable. But because of the durability issues of their older molds, I use this mold very infrequently.

Here in lies another problem, if you're looking at getting a 6cav mold, you'll likely need a bottom pour pot. Though, it is possible to run a 6cav mold with a ladle, I tend to think you'll spend more time melting lead in a small pot than you'd spend casting. SO if you're wanting to stay cheap a small pot and ladle may be the ticket, but you'll likely want a 1cav or 2cav mold to go along with them. And if that is what you're doing, I'd suggest looking at a nice used Lyman/Ideal mold before looking at a Lee 2cav.

Thats my .02. Some people will get upset with this, thinking it's like shunning Lee reloading equipment because Dillon is the best (Go Blue or Go Home as they used to say). That is totally not the case. I pretty much exclusively use Lee reloading presses. Their molds are just a steamy pile of dung...

Thank you for the information. I actually ordered a 9mm Lee 6 cavity mold last night along with some other things. I received a Lee 20lbs bottom pour pot for Christmas. I hope I get lucky and everything works out when I start casting. If not, I'll have to figure it out as I go along.

[jdgabbard]

Thank you for the information. I actually ordered a 9mm Lee 6 cavity mold last night along with some other things. I received a Lee 20lbs bottom pour pot for Christmas.

You're welcome, just sharing what I've learned over the years. The bottom pour pots they offer are nice, but a little leaky at the nozzle. Place something to catch the drips, you'll thank yourself. Which mold did you order?

[Bazoo]

Welp, JD opened the can of worms... might as well fish.

I like Lee moulds... but I've been hit or miss getting bullets that are usable in size. When I have found a Lee mould that works well and casts a bullet of the correct size, and that's not terribly out of round... I hold onto it, normally. I did have one indiscretion and sold a couple a while back. I actually regret those now because I know I can't just buy a Lee mould and replace them. I might get a good one, or a lemon.

I've had Lyman moulds both out of round significantly and undersized. I bought a used 311041 a while back and it was .008 out of round best I recall. I complained and Lyman replaced it for a fee. The new mould left a fine on the nose as I recall. I ended up selling it and getting a used mould that was out of round, and had Eric Ohlen work it over for me. So... for all the cost and headache... I came out way under compared to buying from Accurate.

I've never had a problem across 4 or 5 RCBS moulds that I own or have used though.

All that said, I'd love to find a Lee TL430-240-SWC that dropped .430/.431. I had one a spell that dropped .4285 on the x and .430 on the y. Wouldn't mind trying their 429-214-SWC, C429-240-SWC, and their C430-310-RF in both my 44's. I bet the first one would work like a charm in my Winchester 92, and I got hopes the latter will.

[mgunner]

You're welcome, just sharing what I've learned over the years. The bottom pour pots they offer are nice, but a little leaky at the nozzle. Place something to catch the drips, you'll thank yourself. Which mold did you order?

I was aware that they drip at the nozzle so I also ordered an ingot mold to catch the drips.

I ordered the Lee TL356-124-TC 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 380 ACP (356 Diameter) 124 Grain Tumble Lube Truncated Cone mold.

[Finster101]

While the pot is new and before you fill it, get some valve grinding compound at a local parts store. Use it on the valve rod and spout to get a nice mating surface and leaks will be very minor if any at all.

[oley55]

+1 on the .357 sizer die.

Another thing I don't think anyone mentioned is that if the mold cast undersize you can "beagle" it with a couple small pieces of high temp. flue tape. I have had success doing this with several molds, include a 6 cavity 356-125-2r.

Yes beagling works but from my experience at some point during a lengthy casting session one of the pieces of aluminum tape will fall off unnoticed. I have used 4 different types on tape (high temp and regular) and have not found one that won't eventually turn loose without warning. Just saying...

I have considered taking a spring load center punch to one side of the mold but keep chickening out. But I do keep thinking the spring loaded punch would be more likely to displace the same amount of metal with each punch.

[charlie b]

Instead of beagle just lap the mold. I have done that several times over the years.

Cast a bullet. Stick a screw in the base of it and clip the head off. Chuck it in a slow speed drill. Light coat of fine valve grinding compound. Clamp the mold around the 'lap' and turn slowly. If multiple cavity I will even count turns to make sure I do both the same. Check dia until you get what you need. This can also do a slight 'clean up' of an out of round mold.

Realistically you can get a few thousandths this way. Side benefit is the bullets will drop out of the mold easier as well.

And, IMHO, the 6cav molds are better for a number of reasons. Main one being they maintain a more even temperature. Second and maybe more important is the sprue plate. I've never liked the thin sprue plats on the 2cav molds. The 6cav have the nice opening lever and thick plate.

PS Lee intentionally 'undersized' the cavities compared to RCBS and Lyman. The goal was to produce a bullet cast from WW that did not need to be sized. We cast many thousands of rounds and never used a size die with any of them. .32, .357, .45. My first size die was bought simply because I started using gas checks on some bullets and needed to crimp them.

[jdgabbard]

I've had Lyman moulds both out of round significantly and undersized. I bought a used 311041 a while back and it was .008 out of round best I recall. I complained and Lyman replaced it for a fee. The new mould left a fine on the nose as I recall. I ended up selling it and getting a used mould that was out of round, and had Eric Ohlen work it over for me. So... for all the cost and headache... I came out way under compared to buying from Accurate.

I've run into a few Lyman molds that had some issues. Particularly those made around 2008-10ish. I haven't bought many Lyman molds since then, but the ones I have have been OK. I definitely prefer Ideal molds over new Lymans. The older molds seem like they had a higher level of QC, and have been well broken in.


I was aware that they drip at the nozzle so I also ordered an ingot mold to catch the drips.

I ordered the Lee TL356-124-TC 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 380 ACP (356 Diameter) 124 Grain Tumble Lube Truncated Cone mold.

I haven't used that mold, but I hear it's generally a good one. If you get into PCing bullets that is an easy one to bump up the diameter with just powdercoating. I powdercoat everything now...it's far better than LLA and traditional lubing. One more think, that bullet might work in 380, but it's really too heavy for it. You want to stay in the 85-95gr range for that caliber.


While the pot is new and before you fill it, get some valve grinding compound at a local parts store. Use it on the valve rod and spout to get a nice mating surface and leaks will be very minor if any at all.

I would just make sure if I did this I clean out the pot really well before adding any alloy to it. Last thing you want to do is go fire-lapping your barrel...


Instead of beagle just lap the mold. I have done that several times over the years.

^^^ This. Lapping the mold is by far a superior method. With an aluminum mold this is almost too easy to do - easy to over-do... But if you need to get a bullet that is slightly fatter and round this is the way. I like to roll my cast "slug" on a flat file to get it some cut-outs to hold debris and extra lapping compound. Though, I must say doing this with TL bullets can sometimes be hit or miss, the end product doesn't appear as nicely as traditional lube groove bullets in my opinion.

[Finster101]

Quote Originally Posted by Finster101 View Post
While the pot is new and before you fill it, get some valve grinding compound at a local parts store. Use it on the valve rod and spout to get a nice mating surface and leaks will be very minor if any at all.


"I would just make sure if I did this I clean out the pot really well before adding any alloy to it. Last thing you want to do is go fire-lapping your barrel..."


Really? Have you ever done this? You use so little lapping paste you are not going to ruin anything. I love how folks know so much about something they have never done. I will leave the rest of this thread to the experts. Good luck on your endeavor.

[jdgabbard]

Really? Have you ever done this? You use so little lapping paste you are not going to ruin anything. I love how folks know so much about something they have never done. I will leave the rest of this thread to the experts. Good luck on your endeavor.

You're absolutely right, I haven't lapped the valve in my pot. But that doesn't mean that making sure it is clean isn't a good idea. Isn't that the whole reason behind fluxing and scrapping the sides of the pot, as well as fluxing your melt while smelting? This seems like a small suggestion to get worked up over.

For the record, I think it's a nice idea, and might even try it the next time I buy a Lee Pot (No idea when that will be, but I've been considering it as mine is starting to show it's age). I was just making a suggestion to make sure it's clean afterwards....

[mgunner]

While the pot is new and before you fill it, get some valve grinding compound at a local parts store. Use it on the valve rod and spout to get a nice mating surface and leaks will be very minor if any at all.

Where do I find it? Home Depot doesn't seem to carry it. Since I've never used it before, how long and how much pressure is needed to polish the surfaces?

[Dusty Bannister]

Valve grinding compound might be a little coarse due to the size of the grit. If you did a seach for lapping compound, you would have come up with a product at WalMart and with various sizes of grit. The added benefit would be the material can also be used to lap a mold to get a smooth surface and allow the cast bullets to drop from the mold easier. Are you checking and responding to PM's?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Y-H-M-Carborundum-Paste-Grinding-Lapping-Compounds-Valve-Compound-Grit-60-3000-Grit-120-Medium-450g/2999346523?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101245989&adid=22222222222000000000_3614603750_pla&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=2999346523_10001265349&wl14=lapping%20compound&veh=sem&gclid=3e0ea30ee7da14fe9a7dc69ab01bd83a&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=3e0ea30ee7da14fe9a7dc69ab01bd83a

[Finster101]

Dusty you are correct, I should have said lapping compound.

[fredj338]

I have found final cast size, regardless of mold manf, can vary quite a bit. Alloy & casting temp are the bigger factors. My Lee molds tend to run about 0.002" over with range scrap, but it varies a bit from mold to mold.

[charlie b]

For lapping I'd not go larger than 200grit and I prefer 300-400 grit.

[cpaspr]

Regarding the recommendation to size to .357" vs .356", I'm going to say "It depends".

I have a Ruger SR9c that will feed (and shoot) 9mm cartridges loaded with .358" cast or Berry's plated bullets. The same rounds wouldn't even start into the tight chamber of a friend's S&W Bodyguard.

So, maybe .356" is right for him, or maybe .357" is. He's ordered the .356" sizing die. If they don't shoot well after being sized, assuming the as-cash dimension is larger, then he can consider getting a larger push-through die.

I have some 9mm boolits cast that I have yet to size. I'll run them through the .357" Lyman die I got last year first. If they fit and shoot okay after that, I'll be done. If they need to be sized lower, I'll run them back through the Lee push-through die I already had.

[lightload]

Guys new to casting aren't likely to beagle or lap a mold. Does the op own a caliper or micrometer?

[mehavey]

size to .357" vs .356", I'm going to say "It depends".Troops, I'm running 357s using all sorts of range pickup brass in multiple Glocks, M&P Shield/2.0s, and SIGs.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/9mm-case-head-separation.926382/post-12796932
No issues.


(The usual YMMV disclaimer of course) :coffeecom

[paul edward]

Do let us know what weight and diameter you get. Also what diameter your barrel slugs to.

Your 124 grain bullet may be heavy for the 380. I have had good results with Lee TL356-95 RF in my 380. With my scrap metal alloy these drop at 97 grains and .358 diameter. I do not size them as my PK slugs at .357.

Agree with earlier post, you do not need a .356 sizing die.

[RogerDat]

+1 on the lapping compound for the spout and valve of the bottom pour. Rescued a Lee bottom pour from a sale that was useless until I placed the pin in at the right angle to seat in the valve and turned it a few times with a screwdriver. I also added some weight to the handle so it pulled the valve down more firmly. I think one can slip a few nuts over the wire to rest against the wooden handle.

I use a Lyman little dipper to ladle pour and it works fine to feed a 6 cavity mold. I don't think I have used it for really large bullets like 255 grain 45 but no problem pouring 4 cavity 200 grain rifle. I used a ladle until I got the aforementioned bottom pour used and missing parts bottom pour cheap. I do use a 20# melter which does help keep up with the ladle. Can't use the bottom of the pot with a ladle so that reduces the usable capacity. A 10# pot has to be refilled much more frequently than the 20.

I have used the lapping compound on a bullet to adjust a mold and turned the screw in the bullet base with a screwdriver something to do while watching TV.

Worth remembering one can also use valve grinding paste and lapping compound on a Lee sizing die. I used an old patch end from a cleaning kit with patches to apply the compound. Provided the spin with a cordless drill. I wasn't trying to remove much metal as much as trying for a more polished service that was a tiny bit larger.

I love tumble lube. I do it in zip lock bag half to a third filled with bullets that I just roll from hand to hand and dump the lubed bullets on a tray to dry. No easier way to crank out lots of ready to use bullets. I like PC for bullets that I'm going to push harder where the extra time and work pays performance benefits.

I think it is accurate mold that wants to know the alloy you want the mold cut to work with so they can take that alloy into account when cutting the cavities.

I think I have a Lee 2 cavity in every caliber I load. Allowed me to have something to cast with for that caliber as well as being an inexpensive way to try a different weight. Many don't see a lot of use as they have been replaced of higher quality and/or more cavities. Some of the TL models from Lee still see regular use.

[Elpatoloco]

Strongly recommend the OP order the Lee 0.357 sizer, and load/shoot that for 9mm cast.

This is the way. All of the 9s I have cast for eat .357.

Guessing what any Lee mould drop as far as size........flip a coin. Set up to powder coat and forget it.

[1eyedjack]

Had good luck using automotive rubbing compound to polish cavities and sizing dies helps keep me from getting too aggressive and imparts a nice shine. Someone suggested placing a 1/4" nut over the cavities and pouring lead through the nut into the cavities without the sprue plate in place then use a nut driver to turn the lap instead of the screw in a cast bullet.

[mgunner]

Do let us know what weight and diameter you get. Also what diameter your barrel slugs to.

Your 124 grain bullet may be heavy for the 380. I have had good results with Lee TL356-95 RF in my 380. With my scrap metal alloy these drop at 97 grains and .358 diameter. I do not size them as my PK slugs at .357.

Agree with earlier post, you do not need a .356 sizing die.

I'm casting 9mm for a carbine. I used casting alloy and my barrel .356. I'll let you know what diameter I get.

Still waiting for my mold. I'll let everyone know what diameter I get. If they cast larger I'll shoot them that way. Then I'll size them just to see how it affects accuracy or if leading occurs.

[mgunner]

Good idea. I'll post back when I cast and let everyone know how it went.

[Bazoo]

mgunner, as you can see, we're all enthusiastic about all things cast bullets! LOL, glad to see you sticking around, Welcome to the forum again!

[mgunner]

mgunner, as you can see, we're all enthusiastic about all things cast bullets! LOL, glad to see you sticking around, Welcome to the forum again!

Thank you Bazoo!

[mgunner]

Well it looks like the package was lost. Contacted merchant and it was shipped 1/2. UPS doesn't have it. So now have to wait for merchant to reship it.

[AndyC]

Had good luck using automotive rubbing compound to polish cavities and sizing dies helps keep me from getting too aggressive and imparts a nice shine. Someone suggested placing a 1/4" nut over the cavities and pouring lead through the nut into the cavities without the sprue plate in place then use a nut driver to turn the lap instead of the screw in a cast bullet.

Like this:
321946

[Cast10]

Lee 356-120-TC 6 cavity mold; GTG. Drops at .358 with alloy @ 11.3 BHN. Use .357 sizer for .356 slug. Powder Coated; No Leading. Have used this alloy up to 1600 fps with great results.

[rintinglen]

Had good luck using automotive rubbing compound to polish cavities and sizing dies helps keep me from getting too aggressive and imparts a nice shine. Someone suggested placing a 1/4" nut over the cavities and pouring lead through the nut into the cavities without the sprue plate in place then use a nut driver to turn the lap instead of the screw in a cast bullet.

Float the nuts in pot while you preheat the mold to insure a good fill out. use tweezers or cheap needle nosed pliers to pluck the nuts out and place them on the mold before pouring to avoid poor fillout issues. Do one at a time.

[mgunner]

I received the package on 1/11. So now I have everything I need except for some anti seize lube, gloves, and warmer weather.

[BRatigan]

I hope you try the tumble lube Lee 124 TC mold. I have one in 6 cavities and found it cast incredible bullets at higher temperatures. The bullets frost slightly and fall from the mold mostly. Using BHN 12 or so alloy and I do not size at all for my M9A4 Berretta. My buddy has a Canik and the same bullet must be sized to .356 or the slide won't close. They are all different in some capacity. That TC bullet though out of my Berretta is scary accurate. I use a load of Silhouette under it. All is well. Hope you find the going easy.

[mgunner]

Dusty you are correct, I should have said lapping compound.

I could only find Permatex valve grinding compound near me. It starts at 220 grit and grinds down to 120 grit. Kept twisting the valve in the seat until the sound of the grinding compound almost stopped. Tested the pot by pouring water into it and the valve stops the water from dripping out. So if it keeps water from dripping, it should keep lead from dripping. I'll see once the weather warms up so I can cast outside. Thank you for your help.

[mgunner]

That's the mold I have. Just waiting for the weather to warm up so I can start to cast. Thanks for the comment.