Color Case Hardening preservation

[Hannibal]

Interested in preserving the CCH finish on a vintage rifle. I've simply applied oil in the past but am interested in something that lasts longer yet is not affected by cleaning solvent.

Any suggestions appreciated.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

It's unfortunate how the colors fade with age, use, and wear. The super expensive and valuable old rifles with still-brilliant CCH belonged to some railroad magnate who never used or handled it. The only solutions I have seen are a lacquer coating or paste wax.
The lacquer can chip, scratch, and eventually need to be removed and redone. A light coating of paste wax seems the best solution.

DG

[schutzen-jager]

the British makers protected it with a special action varnish - this link might help -

https://www.shotgunworld.com/threads/lacquer-protective-coat-for-colored-case-hardened-receivers.89217/

[Hannibal]

It's unfortunate how the colors fade with age, use, and wear. The super expensive and valuable old rifles with still-brilliant CCH belonged to some railroad magnate who never used or handled it. The only solutions I have seen are a lacquer coating or paste wax.
The lacquer can chip, scratch, and eventually need to be removed and redone. A light coating of paste wax seems the best solution.

DG

I was considering this option myself. Do you know if the Carnuba waxes are resistant to solvents?

On second thought, perhaps my best bet would be to wax a piece of flat steel stock and see what happens when solvents are used.

I know there's no such thing as a perfect solution, but I've learned some require less compromise than others.

[ascast]

I have heard that it is the sun that does that. So only safe queens still have nice colors. Try sunblock cream, the best you can find. When you take out to shoot, toss a rag over the gun while checking targets, run to the car etc.

[contender1]

Museums use Renaissance Wax for protection, and handle with cotton gloves.

[Hannibal]

Well I don't consider this a museum piece and I'll never own a firearm that I think is too nice to shoot. But if there are steps I can take to preserve the appearance then I'll gladly do so.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I'm a heavy user of carnauba wax. That is to say, I use it a lot, but apply it thinly (not heavily). But, I use it a lot. The secret to success is to have it in paste form in a wide mouth can. Just set your finger on top of the wax and in just a few seconds the heat from you finger will melt enough for your immediate use. Rub it in a circular pattern over the surface you with to protect so that the wax will fill the pores in the metal (or wood). Come back in about half-an-hour and buff it off with a soft cloth. If not satisfied, do it again. I use TreWax, a holdover from the old hardwood floor days, still available in some hardware stores and maybe even on Amazon. It comes clear and sandy colored, and you'd want the clear. Not as popular as it once was because hardwood floors are disappearing, but last time I found it in a small hardware store. One can will last most of a lifetime. It does no harm to any finish I've ever heard of, and I use it on both metal and wood just depending on the gun's existing metal and stock finish. Yes, gun solvents will dissolve it, which is why in some cases I use it on the entire gun and no oil, except the bore. The best features of using the wax is that it does not collect dust out of the air like an oily surface--just wipe it off with a soft cloth. It's great for waterproofing, as the water will bead up and roll off the gun just like a freshly waxed automobile (also becoming a thing of the past). You can fill cracks and voids with the wax, such as the gap along a barrel channel to keep the water out of the stock channel. This does not relieve one of having to take the gun apart and dry it out after such a wet session, then applying a new coat of wax.

I am an admirer of CCH finishes, but actually the antique guns that have faded colors and the metal has turned grey are nothing I'd throw away. There are a couple of ways to achieve the colors, the most brilliant involving the use of cyanide (very dangerous) and brought to a high art by a few custom metal finishers, and the old way of packing the parts in sheep bone charcoal, as was the practice of S&W. A poor substitute is heat coloring, where heat as from a welding torch is applied directly to the part causing it to change colors. Not very durable, wears off with handling.

DG

[Hannibal]

Based upon my personal experience with a few neglected receivers no matter how the part was treated it is definitely not a durable finish. Once it's lost it's lost.

And once again, based on my personal experiences the chemical surface treatments aren't a whole lot less durable than the originals.

Many disagree, and that's perfectly fine. My personal observations are just that. Personal observations.

[Bazoo]

When I was waiting for my Winchester 1892 to be finished at Turnbull Restoration, I did some research on the color case hardening and what's used to protect it.

For restored old guns, such as the 1886 that Doug Turnbull hunts with, Turnbull uses lacquer. It will wear off and need to be reapplied after time.

For new guns, Turnbull typically puts clear Cerakote on the parts that are Color Case Hardened. I did some research on these guns and found that the Cerakote holds up exceptionally well.

I was concerned that my gun, after having a few decades of use, would begin to wear around the edges everywhere except for the receiver that was Cerakoted. I talked to Turnbull about this and I decided to have my gun coated with lacquer so that the gun would wear evenly over the years. They did tell me if I was concerned about even wear on a gun that I expected to be generational, that lacquer was a better choice.

Another concern I had, is how does the Cerakote do in 100 years? would it still be clear? Would it hazy from scratches and sunlight? Another reason I elected to have my gun lacquered.